National Parks, Wellington Park, and some other climbing areas closed until further notice

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Guide
<guide><text class="heading1" id="1">Hobart Quarries</text><text class="text" id="2">There are a number of old quarries within the city that provide mediocre climbing but very easy access.</text><text class="heading2" id="3">Proctors Quarry</text><text class="intro" id="4">Within this Hobart urban quarry are a number of good traverses and vertical boulder problems. </text><text class="access" id="5">To get to the quarry Drive up Proctors Road from Sandy Bay. Half way up the hill is an obvious dolerite quarry surrounded by a wire fence.
  Access to the quarry is a bit tricky these days. The quarry is owned by the University of Tasmania and you have to get permission to climb there. Call (03) 6226 2791 for details. Gaining access involves filling out and signing an indemnity form and returning it (you can fax it) to the University Asset Management Services. A security guard will then come and unlock the gate for you at a pre-arranged time. It is best to arrange access at least a day before you want to climb. If a University security guard sees you bouldering without permission they will come and kick you out.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="Cocaine Traverse" number="       " stars="       " id="6">The leftmost traverse starts on the slab under Cocaine Corner (the left most route on the lower level of the quarry) and traverses right past the start of Hit Me Quick to a large jug next to the large tree. There are several variations worth attempting: Left to right, right to left, the low traverse (only using under clings) and the high traverse.</problem><text class="heading3" id="7">Grand Annihilator Area</text><text class="access" id="8">Just past the large tree to the right of Hit Me Quick, are several problems. </text><image src="Proctors Quarryga.jpg" id="9"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3?" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="10">Up arete, finish as for Grand Annihilator</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="The Grand Annihilator" number="2." stars="***" id="11">This is the very difficult problem following the very slopey holds up the overhanging wall, about 2m right of the previous problem. For several years the hardest problem in Tasmania and a classic of the grade. FA Marcel Jackson 94
  Can also be done with a sit start which is slightly harder.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8+" name="Right Annihilator" number="3." stars="       " id="12">Do the start of the GA but crank out right to the two small holds high up to the right. Get established on these and then finish as for Event Horizon. This is a little bit harder than GA since it involves most of GA and then some more ugly moves after that. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V9" name="Right Annihilator Eliminate" number="3a." stars="**" id="13">As for Right Annihilator, using the slopes instead of the two crimps, finish as for Event Horizon.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4?" name="The GA traverse (low)" number="       " stars="       " id="14">Traverse along the base of this face (left and or right) from the tree to the easy ground past EH. This is a moderate grade and not as hard as the Justin Traverse, but reasonably tricky - a knee bar comes in handy. Reasonably fun. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V9?" name="The GA Traverse (high)" number="       " stars="       " id="15">Right to left only. Start up EH then traverse the lip without using the finishing jug on EH (which is a fair way past the lip anyway) and finish as for the easier problem near the tree. This problem is harder than GA as it involves doing the final hard move of GA as well as quite a few very slopey foot swaps and hand slaps. FA Marcel Jackson 95</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Event Horizon" number="4." stars="*" id="16">This problem involves cranking up left to some small holds at the top of the overhanging wall, and then pulling over the top, about 2m right of GA. Reasonably easy. FA Hamish Jackson 95</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V9?" name="Event Horizon Eliminate" number="       " stars="       " id="17">There are heaps of natural eliminates to Event Horizon (eg don't use the rounded top of the face, use the smaller of the two holds), but this is the best. The basic idea is to eliminate the two small holds. Start as for EH and crank a long way up left to the top of the face (the part of the lip used on GA) with the left hand. Put your left foot on the small foothold and slap to the top of the face on the right (just above and right of the two thin holds). Then do a big dyno to the obvious finishing jug (the same one as for EH). According to Marcel this problem is massively hard and is about the same difficulty as RGA. FA Marcel Jackson 97</problem><text class="heading3" id="18">Justin Traverse</text><text class="text" id="19">This is the main traverse in the quarry, originally developed by Justin Kennedy with a million variations done by Marcel Jackson. It starts at the base of Natural High and now ends at the start of Suicide Bridge (the best part ends at Bent Needles). There are a couple of upwards problems that can be done here as well i.e. the starts of Faceless and Bent Needles.
  </text><image src="Proctors Quarryjt.jpg" id="20"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V6+" name="The Justin Traverse (high)" number="1." stars="*" id="21">This is the main traverse in the quarry, originally developed by Justin Kennedy with a million variations done by Marcel Jackson. It starts at the base of Natural High and traverses right on crimps. Crank upwards in the middle section to the higher holds.`</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5+" name="The Justin Traverse (low)" number="2." stars="*" id="22">Traverse left to right using low side pulls and underclings</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5+" name="Other variants." number="3." stars="       " id="23">There are many other variants of the Justin Traverse, with varying degrees of contrivance.  Some ideas are: The middle traverse - keep to handholds at about head height; The Eliminate traverse - use as few holds as possible; the super-high traverse (uses high handholds and no low footholds).
  The hardest of the variants is the so-called Footholdless Traverse.  On this traverse you must eliminate all positive footholds, including bridging or layaway smears. Contrived, but difficult!</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5?" name="       " number="       " stars="       " id="24">The start of Faceless</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="       " stars="       " id="25">The start of Bent Needles</problem><text class="heading2" new="false" id="26">Waterworks Quarry</text><text class="text" new="false" id="27">The Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne. Travel south along Davey Street (B64) heading for Ferntree (Mt Wellington), over the lights at the end of the Southern Outlet, and turn L at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton Avenue. Turn R at the bottom of the steep hill into Waterworks Road, the cliff is about a km further on on the LH side. (Extract from WW climbing guide).</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Local's Breakfast" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="28">The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.</problem><text class="heading2" id="29">Fruehauf</text><text class="intro" id="30">There are some vertical, crimpy problems in this Hobart urban training area.</text><image src="Hobart Quarriesquarrymap.jpg" id="31"/><text class="access" id="32">To get to Fruehauf drive down Cascade Road, turn right to go to the tip, then right into Degraves St, across the bridge to Apsley, immediately left into Tara, drive into the car park and park at the gate. Squeeze through the gate and walk about 50m to where a track heads left up the bank to the cliff.</text><problem extra="       " grade="V5+" name="Fruehauf Traverse" number="1." stars="*" id="33">A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.</problem><text class="text" id="34">Doing the first few moves of the various climbs here is another way to do some fun bouldering, as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so 
  </text><problem extra="       " grade="V4" name="GH" number="2." stars="       " id="35">
    </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="SE" number="3." stars="       " id="36">
    </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="JJ" number="4." stars="       " id="37">
    </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="A" number="5." stars="       " id="38">
    </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="PL" number="6." stars="       " id="39">
    </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="WD" number="7." stars="       " id="40">
    </problem><text class="heading3" new="false" id="41">Big Mutha Truckers Boulder</text><text class="intro" new="false" id="42">These problems are on the boulder at the extreme right hand end of Fruehauf, past This Is Steep Mum. Look right from this climb and you will see it, about 5m away. It has a low, wave wall on one side with 'V3' written in chalk. </text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Big Mutha Truckers" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="43">The aforementioned boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave wall on jugs, move left to big sloper, then bust to jugs and easy topout. Good warm up</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Bigger Mutha Trucker" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="44">Start at the far right of the boulder on the big jug, bust out to the starting holds of Big Mutha Truckers and finish up this. Very low start</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4+" name="Trucker's Stop" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="45">This problem is on the other side of the boulder. Start in the middle of the boulder on two really small crimps and big pull to sloper then top out.</problem><text class="heading2" id="46">McRobies Quarry</text><text class="text" id="47">There are a handfull of slabs and aretes in this very small quarry nearby to Fruehauf. To get there drive on McRobies Road and park near Syme Street and wander up the hill to the left where you can see the rocks.</text><image src="Fruehaufmcrobies.jpg" id="48"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="49">Face left of bent tree</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="50">Face right of bent tree</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="51">Up arete, eliminate the big ledge</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="52">Start as for 4 but go left and climb seam, don't use big ledge</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5." stars="       " id="53">Corner</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " number="6." stars="       " id="54">Up face without using corner to left or arete to right<right
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="7." stars="       " id="55">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="8." stars="       " id="56">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " number="9." stars="       " id="57">Slab just right of arete. Just using the arete would be quite tricky.</problem><text class="heading2" id="58">Forest Road Quarries</text><text class="text" id="59">There are three old sandstone quarries at the end of Forest Road in West Hobart. Guides to come.</text><text class="heading2" id="60">Alexandra Battery</text><text class="text" id="61">This is the ruins of an old (convict era?) cannon battery in lower Sandy Bay. It was climbed on quite a bit in the early nineties until before the climbing gym. It provides a few vertical problems and traverses on mostly bluestone walls. It's a bit sharp in places. The grades are probably a bit random as they have been converted from non V grades.</text><text class="access" id="62">Drive towards Taroona along Sandy Bay Road until the lower Sandy Bay shops. Turn right between the two petrol stations into Wayne Avenue, then take the next left into Nile Avenue. Park at the end and walk to the ruins (20 seconds). Using the map, along with the route descriptions, it should be fairly easy to locate the climbs.</text><image src="Hobart Quarriesalexandra.jpg" id="63"/><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="64"> The bulge via the crack. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="65"> The bulge via undercling. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3/4" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="66"> The bulge left of corner. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V0" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="67"> Easy traverse. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3/4" name="       " number="5a." stars="       " id="68"> Dyno from lowest brick pocket </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V1" name="       " number="5b." stars="       " id="69"> All holds start in doorway. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="6." stars="       " id="70"> Corner. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="Traverse of Death and Transfiguration" number="7." stars="       " id="71">L to R. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="       " number="8." stars="       " id="72"> Using RSG on roof, climb out of doorway. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="       " number="9." stars="       " id="73"> Small edges to top. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="10." stars="       " id="74"> Corner without using metal spike. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="11." stars="       " id="75"> Chimney. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V5" name="       " number="12." stars="       " id="76"> Up arete left of door, onto face. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V6" name="       " number="13." stars="       " id="77"> Face left of archway, 2m. left. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V7" name="       " number="14." stars="       " id="78"> Face, 2m left of 13. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V6" name="       " number="15." stars="       " id="79">Face, 2m left of 14. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V4" name="       " number="16." stars="       " id="80"> Face, 2m left of 15. Start low. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V?" name="       " number="l7." stars="       " id="81"> Traverse. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V?" name="       " number="18." stars="       " id="82"> Low traverse, without using top of wall. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V1" name="       " number="19." stars="       " id="83"> Arete. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V1/2" name="       " number="20." stars="       " id="84"> Pockets left of boulder. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="21." stars="       " id="85"> Face 2m. left of boulder. Sharp holds. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3/4" name="       " number="22." stars="       " id="86"> Arete. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V1" name="       " number="23a." stars="       " id="87"> Middle of face. All holds. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3/4" name="       " number="23b." stars="       " id="88"> One handhold and one foothold only. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="24." stars="       " id="89"> Right pillar of archway to top. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="       " number="25." stars="       " id="90"> Central pillar. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V8" name="       " number="26a." stars="       " id="91"> Free hanging double two finger dyno. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V6" name="       " number="26b." stars="       " id="92"> Left pockets and feet on wall. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V0" name="       " number="27." stars="       " id="93"> Slab. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V1/2" name="       " number="28." stars="       " id="94"> Face using pockets 2m from right. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V2" name="       " number="29a." stars="       " id="95"> The corner, using everything. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V4" name="       " number="29b." stars="       " id="96"> The corner, minus the crack. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V7/8" name="       " number="29c." stars="       " id="97"> The left face of the corner. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V3" name="       " number="30a." stars="       " id="98"> The bulge, with the ring. </problem><problem extra="       " grade="V4" name="       " number="30b." stars="       " id="99"> The bulge, without using the ring. </problem></guide>