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<guide version="2"><header access="From the Sisters Beach township drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km at a parking area (GPS SIS000). Start by following the signposted track for about 100m, then bear off to the L where a rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m  before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear R and down to the end of the cliff. There is no legal camping at Sisters Beach although several possible sites exist. The camp ground at Boat Harbour is quite good but is about 10 km away." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. Updated by Tony McKenny, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher." history="Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular. This route is possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for its grade in the state and is a must do for every visitor. Other contributors included Mick Ling, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. In the early nineties John Fisher scruffed the scene and produced a series of steep, hard and 'interestingly' named sports climbs on Corruption Wall. Unfortunately the anchors placed by John became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. Local Andrew Arnold has now fully rebolted the climbs in question and all the climbs, on both cliffs, now have a DBB at the top. The trad routes are still there of course, although a couple have been retro-bolted (a trend that hopefully will not continue!)." intro="The main cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing. The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the other side of Breakneck Point is formed by steep or gently overhanging walls. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent - a good diversion from cranking when your tips are raw or your ego in danger of being compromised." name="Sisters Beach" rock="15m steep quartzite" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10 min" id="1"/><gps id="2"><point code="SIS000" description="Sisters Beach - car park" easting="381013" height="0" northing="5469569" zone="55G"/></gps><image noPrint="false" src="sisters beach map.png" width="" id="3"/><text class="heading2" id="4">Carpark Buttress</text><text class="text" id="5">This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Nose Route" number="" stars="*" id="6" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29 Apr 1981.">Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous. </climb><text class="heading2" id="7">Fly Buttress</text><text class="text" id="8">The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). All climbs now have a DBB at the top, and there is a somewhat dodgy looking (but now superfluous) abseil chain above Superfly as well.</text><image noPrint="false" src="sister fly wall.jpg" width="" id="9"/><climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Blown" number="1." stars="" id="10" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Groove L of roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Wuss 'n'  Boots" number="2." stars="*" id="11" fa="Sam Edwards.">Just to the R, through the roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="March Fly" number="3." stars="*" id="12" fa="Dennis Kearnes 1992.">Starts up Mortein then goes L. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Mortein" number="4." stars="" id="13" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith.">Groove to roof, then L line. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Superfly (the Movie)" number="5." stars="***" id="14" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Up the groove/crack below the middle of the big roof, then follow R line through roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Try, Fly or Die" number="6." stars="*" id="15" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Traverse R under roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Sunshine" number="7." stars="**" id="16" fa="Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.">Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a couple of bolts on the first roof. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Pigs Can Fly" number="8." stars="" id="17" fa="Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine. </climb><climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Fly Paper" number="9." stars="" id="18" fa="Tony McKenny.">Broken wall R of main cliff. </climb><climb extra="" grade="7" length="" name="Fly Blows Aunt" number="10." stars="" id="19" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">Crack to the R of Uncle. 
</climb><climb extra="" grade="" length="7" name="Fly Blows Uncle" number="11." stars="" id="20" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">The dirty corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Son of Superfly (Maggot)" number="12." stars="*" id="21" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Midge" number="13." stars="" id="22" fa="Tony McKenny.">Short wall to the R and then over small overhang. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Arete" number="14." stars="" id="23" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Arête  and wall R of Midge. </climb><text class="heading3" id="24">The Keyhole</text><text class="text" id="25">To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Bass Strait is on your L (ie walking east).  You can approach Corruption Wall (Dogs Coif etc) by following a path with the rock on your R (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your L and going "up and over" to get to the cave.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole.  It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag.  From there you take a L  (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Battle on New Years Eve" number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold ">The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber). 
</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gap Filler" number="" stars="*" id="27" fa="Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct 1982. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by Andrew Chang and Andrew Arnold in 2005.">Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall. Three bolts to DBB. </climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Bulging Balls" number="" stars="" id="28" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17 Apr 1982.">About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. </climb><text class="heading3" id="29">Seaside Buttress</text><text class="text" id="30">The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. The climbs are on the steep walls either side.</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length=" " name="Ling's Wall" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.">Wall L of gully. </climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Bird's Corner" number="" stars="" id="32" fa=" Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.">Corner on west side of buttress.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Right Hand Corner" number="" stars="" id="33" fa="Mick Ling."></climb><climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Staszewski's Crack" number="" stars="" id="34" fa="Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.">Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Blow Job" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.">On western face of buttress. </climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length=" " name="Hand Job" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton, Apr 1982.">Next route R. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Easy Ramp Route" number="" stars="" id="37" fa="Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12 Apr 1982.">Easy ramp on RH side of buttress. </climb><text class="heading2" id="38">Corruption Wall</text><text class="text" id="39">This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. Fixed hangers are de rigueur and all  routes have rap anchors at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by "A Butcher's Dog".</text><image noPrint="false" src="sisters corruption.jpg" width="" id="40"/><climb legend="true" legendTitle="Corruption Wall" legendx="720" legendy="5"><legend>46</legend><legend>47</legend><legend>48</legend><legend>49</legend><legend>50</legend><legend>51</legend><legend>52</legend><legend>53</legend><legend>54</legend><legend>55</legend><legend>56</legend></image><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Carnal Knowledge" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Robert Hamilton.">From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" name="Fourplay" id="42" fa="Tony McKenny.">The chimney. </climb><climb extra="" grade="24" length="" name="Roll on Responsibility" number="" stars="**" id="43" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.">Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="20m" name="Sister Superior" number="" stars="**" id="44" fa="Nick Hancock and  Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb the steep wall just right of  Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Purple Veined Junket Pumper" number="" stars="***" id="45" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="" name="The Winking Sausage" number="1." stars="***" id="46" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="" name="Rhythm Rude Girl" number="2." stars="***" id="47" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="The Rapist" number="3." stars="*" id="48" fa="Tony McKenny.">Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Happy Hooker" number="4." stars="" id="49" fa="Mick Ling.">Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="19" length="" name="Lazy Lob" number="5." stars="**" id="50" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger" number="6." stars="**" id="51" fa="John Fisher, 1992">Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Nubile Nymph" number="7." stars="*" id="52" fa="N.Williams.">Lay-back the clean-cut crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Gornuphere" number="8." stars="" id="53">The easy line.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Puberty Rites" number="9." stars="**" id="54" fa="N.Williams.">Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="The Slit" number="10." stars="" id="55" fa="Neale Smith.">The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the tree. </climb><climb extra="6Þ" grade="15" length="" name="Condom Power" number="11." stars="**" id="56" fa="Tony McKenny. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. ">Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts and DBB. </climb><text class="heading3" id="57">Dog Wall</text><image noPrint="false" src="DogWall.jpg" width="" id="58"/><climb legend="true" legendTitle="Dog Wall" legendx="300" legendy="5"><legend>59</legend><legend>60</legend><legend>61</legend></image><climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="" name="The Dog's Coif" number="1." stars="***" id="59" fa=" John Fisher, Dec 1993.">Independent, and just right of, the arête.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="" name="Dog's Knob" number="2." stars="***" id="60" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. Use a nut below the first bolt. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Butcher's Dog" number="3." stars="***" id="61" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">The RH line. Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. </climb><text class="heading2" id="62">Eastern Cove</text><text class="text" id="63">Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk. </text><climb extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Metamorphosis" number="" stars="" id="64" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.">Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff. </climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Hard Cheddar" number="" stars="" id="65" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.">Slab then wall to R. </climb><text class="heading2" id="66">West End</text><text class="text" id="67">From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face. 
</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cape Crusader" number="" stars="***" id="68" fa="Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. </climb><text class="heading2" id="69">Lee-Archer Cave</text><text class="text" id="70">Take the track from the carpark at the west end of Sisters Beach, signposted to Lee-Archer Cave and Anniversary Bay</text><climb extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Necropolis" number="" stars="" id="71" fa="M. and H. Jackson, Dec 1992.">Starting just to the R of the cave, climb to the bush at about 5m. Continue directly up the centre of the slightly overhung, diamond shaped face on okay pro in less than okay rock. A sloping ramp in an exposed position leads rather scarily to a bush at top. </climb></guide>