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< Avalanche Couloir | Broken Buttress >

Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Approach straight up from the Organ Pipes Track, beginning on the same track as for Bulging Buttress. An alternative access is via the Sawmill Track from the road (about 1.5km from the Springs, very limited parking), which meets the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW080) directly below Triclinicity.&lt;br/&gt;Descent: varies, with some routes requiring a scramble back into Avalanche Couloir, or down to the Capre Diem rap station (50m, Avalanche Couloir). There is a rap station above The Way (30m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="University Buttress is the area immediately L of Avalanche Couloir. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Splitting the RH end is a strikingly broad 60m high corner (Ozymandias), a feature that is easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track." name="University Buttress" rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min" id="1"/><text>
id="17"   <text class="heading3">Ozymandias Buttress</text><image srcid="UniversityButtressPrint.jpg9" width="700>
    The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly Buttress
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="2">null</image><climb extra="10">
    This buttress is a bit of effort to get to, but has some excellent climbing. Continue L from Two Angry Young Men up a rough track to another orange and black streaked buttress, which overlooks Fool's Couloir.
  </text>
  <climb extra="8Þ ↓" grade="22" length="60m20m" name="BlankThe GenerationTruth" number="" stars="***" id="316" fa="GR. ChildParkyn, K. Carrigan, 1978Nov 1994.">
number="BG">No intellectual ability required Un-obvious, justbizarre pureand gruntinteresting. This pumpyroute numberstarts head2m upL up of The Way and follows the steepseam RHand wallbulge just R of Ozymandias.the 1arete. 35mFinish 22.at ClimbDBB straighton up the wall,ledge followingat the thinend crack (crux).
2. 25m 20. Continue up the wall.</climb><climb extra="of pitch one of The Way. Fully bolted.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="10Þ ↓" grade="1623" length="60m30m" name="OzymandiasThe Way" number="OZTW" stars="**" id="415" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. WilliamsParkyn, Oct 19661994.">"Two
vast and trunkless legs of stone stand, with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out.
1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge.
2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Triclinicity" stars="" id="5" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar 1981.">A total pile of choss. Check your life insurance policy before starting. On the buttress 8m L of Ozymandias, at the corner crack on the LH end that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the roof and continue to the top. If you haven't died, descend by climbing down the other side.</climb><climb  Pumpy face climbing up a slightly overhanging wall 10m L of The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly.
1. 20m 23. Quite a tricky start. The difficulty (but not necessarily the pump) decreases with height. Can also be done by traversing R after the first U-bolt and climbing a crack-line to the R (clipping the U-bolts by reaching L) then re-joining the route between the 3rd and 4th bolts. It's a pleasant enough variation, and one or two grades easier, but avoids the meatiest part of the route.
2. 10m 20. Ascend the corner and face above to the rap station (the 2nd U-bolt on this pitch is not visible from below).
  </climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="23" length="35m" name="The Light" number="" stars="*" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, Mar 1995.">
    Start on the face between The Way and TGTETU. Technical climbing past three U-bolts leads to a crack, about grade 18 to finish.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly" number="GE" stars="*" id="13" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.">
    Takes the line on the R and front of the buttress. Climb the finger crack to the bulge, surmount this (crux), and continue up the dirty RH crack above to the top. Abseil off.
  </climb>
  <text id="18">
    Descent for the following four routes is by abseil from rap station above The Way (30m).
  </text>
  <climb extra="" grade="1915" length="70m125m" name="Pete's Power PlummetProdigal" number="PP" stars="*" id="612" fa="PeteG. SteaneKowalik, DP. FifeRobinson, Mar 1992 (to within 5m of the top).">The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress.
1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the frontNov 1981.">
    A rambling route with sketchy route details that starts at TGTETU, traverses R, crosses TAYM and finishes up L of Sisyphus. Scramble L up the vegetated ramp to the base of the buttress.
21. 30m35m. UpA thelong nicetraverse lookingup butand aR bitover lichenousgrassy wall,ledges thenleads theto cornera above,short steppingcrack L at the roof to below a goodbig belaygrassy ledge.
32. 15m10m. Up the steepcrack handand crackmove inR the cornerpast TAYM pitch 2, thento stepbelay Lon andthe up the mossy ledges and corner to ledge below two easy cracks.
3. 25m. Climb the cracks, taking the R one near the top. ThisScramble pitchup isto notthe actuallysmall abuttress doddlewith asa sometimesthin reported,clean andcrack.
is4. worth15m. protectingCrux. inClimb casethe ofenjoyable acrack.
slip5. The40m. normalFollow methodthe ofridge descent,easily foruntil normalone people,can isscramble by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.</climb><climb down into Fool's Couloir (abseil at bottom), continue to the top and walk over to and down Avalanche Couloir.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1621" length="55m35m" name="SisyphusBlind Faith" number="SIBF" stars="*" id="711" fa="PS. RobinsonEdwards, D. Drake, Feb 19821995.">Starts>
on the south side ofStart the20m Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully.  Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge.
1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress.  Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge.
2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top.  Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.</climb><climb R and up from TGTETU, below a nose of rock. Climb the steep wall (crux) to an easier crack. Finish up the hand-crack on the L side of the nose. Abseil off a bollard (take your own sling).
  </climb>
  <text id="17" class="heading3">
    Ozymandias Buttress
  </text>
  <image src="UniversityButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2">
    null
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="Two Angry Young Men" stars="*" id="8" fa="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988." number="TA">Starts >
    Starts 15m L of Sisyphus underneath the black and orange streaked prow, with two cracks that diverge at a small roof. Takes the LH line.
1. Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an offwidth corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks.
2. Climb the thin LH crack (crux).
  </climb><text classclimb>
  <climb extra="heading3" idgrade="916">The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly Buttress</text><text class="text length="55m" name="Sisyphus" number="SI" stars="" id="107">This buttress is a bit of effort to get to, but has some excellent climbing. Continue L from Two Angry Young Men up a rough track to another orange and black streaked buttress, which overlooks Fool's Couloir.</text><climb extra="" grade="21" length="35m" name="Blind Faith" number="BF" stars="*" id="11" fa="S. Edwards, Feb 1995.">Start 20m R and up from TGTETU, below a nose of rock. Climb the steep wall (crux) to an easier crack. Finish up the hand-fa="P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982.">
    Starts on the south side of the Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully.  Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge.
1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress.  Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge.
2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, sidewhich ofis climbed to the nosetop.  Abseil off a(tape) bollardor (takescramble yourL own sling).</climb><climb to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1519" length="125m70m" name="ProdigalPete's Power Plummet" number="PP" stars="*" id="126" fa="G.Pete KowalikSteane, PD. RobinsonFife, Nov 1981.">A rambling route with sketchy route details that starts at TGTETU, traverses R, crosses TAYM and finishes up L of Sisyphus. Scramble L up the vegetated ramp to the base of the buttress
1. 35m. A long traverse up and R over grassy ledges leads to a short crack below a big grassy ledge.
2. 10mMar 1992 (to within 5m of the top).">
    The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress.
1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress.
2. 30m. Up the cracknice andlooking movebut Ra pastbit TAYMlichenous pitch 2wall, then the corner above, tostepping belayL onat the ledgeroof belowto twoa easygood cracksbelay ledge.
3. 25m15m. ClimbUp the cracks,steep takinghand crack in the Rcorner, onethen nearstep theL top.and Scramble up to the smallmossy buttressledges withand acorner thinto cleanthe cracktop. 4.This 15m.pitch Crux.is Climbnot theactually enjoyablea crack.doddle 5.as 40m.sometimes Followreported, theand ridgeis easilyworth untilprotecting onein cancase scrambleof downa into Fool's Couloir (abseil at bottom), continue to the top and walk over to and down Avalanche Couloir.</climb><text id="18">Descent for the following four routes is by abseil from rap station above The Way (30m).</text><climb slip. The normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="2216" length="30m20m" name="The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly" number="GE" Triclinicity" stars="*" id="135" fa="DP. StephensonRobinson, NK. DekaBischoff, 1988Mar 1981.">Takes>
the line on the RA andtotal frontpile of the buttresschoss. ClimbCheck theyour fingerlife crackinsurance to policy before starting. On the bulge,buttress surmount8m this (crux)L of Ozymandias, andat continue up the dirtycorner RH crack aboveon to the top.LH Abseil off.</climb><climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="23" length="35m" name="The Light" number="" stars="*" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, Mar 1995.">Start on the face between The Way and TGTETU. Technical climbing past three U-bolts leads to a crack, about grade 18 to finish.</climb><climb extra="10Þ ↓" grade="23" length="30m" name="The Way" number="TWend that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the roof and continue to the top. If you haven't died, descend by climbing down the other side.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="60m" name="Ozymandias" number="OZ" stars="**" id="154" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. ParkynWilliams, Oct 19941966.">Pumpy>
face climbing up a slightly overhanging wall 10m L&quot;Two vast and trunkless legs of Thestone Goodstand, Thewith Excellentwrinkled lip and Thesneer Ugly.of 1. 20m 23. Quite a tricky start. The difficulty (but not necessarily the pump) decreases with height. Can also be done by traversing R after the first U-bolt and climbing a crack-line to the R (clipping the U-bolts by reaching L) then re-joining the route between the 3rd and 4th bolts. It's a pleasant enough variation, and one or two grades easier, but avoids the meatiest part of the route.
2. 10m 20. Ascend the corner and face above to the rap station (the 2nd U-bolt on this pitch is not visible from below).</climb><climb extra="8Þ ↓cold command.&quot; The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out.
1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge.
2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m60m" name="TheBlank TruthGeneration" number="" stars="***" id="163" fa="RG. ParkynChild, Nov 1994K. Carrigan, 1978.">Un-obvious, bizarre and interesting. This route starts 2m L of The Way and follows the seam and bulge just R of the arete. Finish at DBB on the ledge at the end of pitch one of The Way. Fully bolted. number="BG">
    No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt. This pumpy number heads up up the steep RH wall of Ozymandias.
1. 35m 22. Climb straight up the wall, following the thin crack (crux).
2. 25m 20. Continue up the wall.
  </climb>
</guide>

< Avalanche Couloir | Broken Buttress >