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Guide
<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
  <header access="To get there, continuewalk left on the Organ Pipes Track past the access track to Flange Buttress for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cuttingheading R straight up Rthe hill (GPS MTW040). Again,This thisjunction is usually marked by a small cairn. Access to the base of routes between MephistophelesImprobability (M)Drive and Linda Youth with a Mission is via the Battle Cruiser (BC) ledge, a ramp that rises L of MMephistopheles and terminates at the Linda chimney.&lt;br/&gt;Descent: Complex. For climbs in the upper cliffs either walk off or abseil down (tape). For climbs on the RH side, there is a rap station on Acid Test for climbs in that area, or tape abseils for most others. For most climbs that start from the Battle Cruiser ledge, including Faust, abseil from the rap station found at the top of BC down the Linda corner to the chock-stone ledge (50m). A further abseil down the Linda chimney is required to regain the LH end of BC ledge (25m). Routes are described from R to L." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="ThisCentral isButtress spans the most extensive buttressarea onbetween theGreat PipesTier with and Pooch Gully and has the added bonus of greatbeing access,relatively as close in proximity to the Organ Pipes Track. passesThe relativelyArena closeis toan itsarea base.of Thesingle RH pitch routes high up and at the far LH end of Centralthe Buttresscrag iswhere moreit brokenabuts andGreat scrubby,Tier. while theThe steeper, cleaner and cleanerlonger rockroutes atR theof LHhere endprovide providesclimbs routes of two pitches or more. The RH end of greater quality.Central Buttress where it merges with Pooch Gully becomes more broken and scrubby. " name="Central Buttress" rock="Broken dolerite faces and cracks, up to 100m" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min uphill" id="1"/>
  <image src camping="CentralButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2""/>
    null
  </image>

  <text class="heading3" id="56">The Arena</text>
   <text class="text" id="59">The Arena is the conspicuous amphitheatre at the top of cliff between at LH end of Central Buttress andabutting Great Tier. Access is usually down from the Mt Wellington summit. Approach by walking along from the top of eitherPooch Arthur'sGully Circustowards or Upper Teardrop Gully andto abseillocate in (tape). The routes are described R to Lthe top of the routes. Access is via abseil.</text>
   <image noPrint="true" src="TheArenaPrint.jpg" width="700" id="57"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="NofArenaSmallArenaSouthSmall.jpg" width="500" id="5877"/>


  <image noPrint legend="false" srclegendx="NArenaSmall.jpg" widthlegendy="500" idlegendFooter="70"/>
  <image noPrint legendTitle="false" src="ArenaSouthSmall.jpg" width="500" id="77"/>
   <climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Menhir" number="" stars="*" id="81" fa="P. Robinson, A. Wilson, Mar 2001.">
    The >The wide crack system to the R of the large pillar on the southL side of the Arena. Climb the chimney and the ensuing off-width crux. (soundsSounds great doesn't it).? Nice climbing follows to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="27m" name="Asterix" number="" stars="*" id="80" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2001.">
    A >A neat little route located on the south side of the Arena amphitheatre. Viewed from the top of Centurion it is the second north-facing crack line from the L (R of Menhir and L of Gladiator). Abseil off a large bollard to the sassafras bush down below (or the spike just above). Follow the pleasant crack to the top.</climb>
  </climb><image noPrint="false" src="NArenaSmall.jpg" width="500" id="70" legend="false" legendx="" legendy="" legendFooter="" legendTitle=""/>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="35m" name="The Den" stars="" id="79" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002.">
    The >The line R of Asterix on south side of the Arena. Watch out for loose rock. Follow the cracks past myrtle tree and sloping pineapple grass ledge, with a crux near top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21M0" length="35m" name="Gladiator" number="" stars="*" id="78" fa="N. Deka, T. McKenny, Apr 1990.">
    A >A distinctive line on the L side of The Arena, broken by two good ledges. Start on a broad sloping ledge at the base of an open corner L of Catacomb. Climb the corner to the first ledge. An awkward crack leads to the second ledge. A finger/hand crack (crux and aid point, originally a peg) leads to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Catacomb" number="CC" stars="*" id="76" fa="T. McKenny, D. Gardner, May 2001.">
    The >The chimney/crack line L of Centurion. Climb the open corner and continue into the tight chimney. Exit out L onto the wall when the chimney becomes a squeeze, and follow the steep crack to the top.</climb>
  </climb><image noPrint="false" src="NofArenaSmall.jpg" width="500" id="58" legend="false" legendx="" legendy="" legendFooter="" legendTitle=""/>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Centurion" number="CE" stars="*" id="75" fa="D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, Feb 1983.">
    The >The prominent crack in the centre of the buttress. A thin crack on the R can be used to avoid the overhanging offwidth crack at the start. Continue up the hand crack to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="The Spear" number="TS" stars="**" id="74" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Dec 1989.">
    An >An exciting climb on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. The gear is not the best. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.
  </climb>
   <text class="text" id="71">>Right L of Obelixthe Spear and Rleft of TheObelix Spear is a large 3m wide chimney feature 3m wide.. Climbing in it is a kind of 3D experience. Circus MinimusMaximus takesis the RHLH corner,. Circus MaximusMinimus takes the LH oneRH line in the chimney.</text>
   <climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m " name="Circus Maximus    " number="CM" stars="*" id="73" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 26 Mar 2007.">Classical. Up the LH side of the chimney to the bulge (a head torch was used on the first ascent to find gear placements underneath it!) and follow the blank corner (crux), which becomes a finger and thin hand-sized crack. Follow the chimney, which higher up becomes awkward and a little run out to reach a large ledge. Take LH line and avoid weighting the loose blocks at the top too much by carefully chimneying past them.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Circus Minimus         " number="" stars="" id="72" fa="P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, 1 Apr 2007. (a suspicious date for a first ascent...)">>A jolly outing that takes Anotherthe jolly outingRH side of the chimney. Climb the crack in the slippery V-chimney on the R to a small roof and chimney L of this to the large ledge. Follow the clean crack system on the R to a bulge, hand jam around it, and climb directly to the top.
  </climb>
   <text class="text" id="65">The next routes are located immediately to the south, R of the Circus duo in the main Arena amphitheatre. Access is again by abseil (tape). YouIdentifying canyour oftenroute identifyof yourchoice chosenis routesignificantly enhanced by looking across from the opposite side of the amphitheatre.</text>
  <image src="CentralButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2">null</image>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Obelix" stars="" id="69" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Apr 2001.">
    The >The corner two lines R of The Spear. Climb the chimney and overhang, then follow the corner all the way to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name=" Legionary" number="" stars="**" id="68" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002.">>Continually interesting climbing that is Theatmospheric corneron linea Lmisty ofday. CaledonianThe andcorner line R of Obelix. A bit dirty to begin with, but the climbing is continually interesting, and the atmosphere on a misty day is fantasticdirty start. Double ropes are handy. Climb the line for 5m before moving L of the corner up the short clean crack behind a large flake. When it runs out, move R into the corner for a few metres before climbing the hand crack on the L wall to the overhang. Traverse L out of the corner into the steep, exposed line above. Climb up to the large platform (belay possible) and finish up the short wall as for Caledonian.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Caledonian Variant" stars="*" id="67" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002."> number="">Start as   As for Caledonian to the ledge, keep R of the arête for a few metres, then traverse L from the arête to climb a steep and exposed finger crack.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="45m" name="Caledonian" number="CA" stars="" id="66" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Feb 2002.">>Right of Obelix on  On the RH side of the Arena amphitheatre are two obvious lines, R of Obelix.. The far RH line has a short crack leading to a large grassy ledge followed by a curving arête. Climb the L trending arête, keeping just R of it. Above the arête are two short walls.
  </climb>
   <text class="text" id="60">The next four climbs are located on separate buttresses just north (R) of the main Arena amphitheatre. The base of these climbs is reached by a 50m rap from the large ledge immediately northright of Obelix (the same ledge where Caledonian finishes). thatThe abseil finishes downto one side of a steep 25m buttress. Watch out for loose blocks on the way down.</text>
   <climb extra="" grade="12" length="25m" name="The Steps" stars="" id="64" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.">     This number="">This route is theused bestas wayan to exit thepitch for its three previouscompanion climbsroutes. Starting from the top of the Telopea buttress, follow walls and the ridge to an exposed step across, which leads to the abseil ledge nextR toof Obelix. Watch out for that loose block on the R just below the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Cheers to Dave" number="" stars="**" id="63" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 2004.">
    A >A tribute to alpine guide Dave Gardner, who died in 2003 climbing on Mt. Tasman.  A wild position on a narrow arête, on the buttress L of Telopea. From the foot of Telopea, climb easily to the thin buttress on the L. The route follows the nose all the way, finishing on an airy perch.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Telopea" stars="**" id="62" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.">
    A >A classic. Straight up the front of the buttress through two bulges, with a steep headwall to finish.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="The Spirit" number="" stars="*" id="61" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.">
    Takes >Takes the nose of the buttress, followed by the wall on the R. Start 5m below and R of Telopea. Follow the nose until one can move R up the wall via exciting layback moves to a ledge. Climb the wall and crack system just R of the nose to the top.
  </climb>
  

  <text id="85" class="heading3">Linda Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="47">A route by Batten, Tillema and Mansfield in April 1970 (Tuberculosis 140m 14M1), was described in an earlier edition of the guide as starting nextleft toof Linda buthowever route details are less than certain, to put it mildlydefinitive. G.The Batten,next M.four Tillema,climbs R.start Mansfield,from Apr. 1970.</text>


  <text class="text" id="51">The following four climbs ground level and all have had few ascents over the lastpast 30 years,. soOn that basis their descriptions and grades should be treated with caution. More information welcome!cautiously.</text>
   <climb extra="" grade="9" length="100m" name="Whose Route" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="J. Elliot, B. Higgins, 1960.">
    Located >Located on the left (south) side of Central Buttress, this is one of the oldest routes on the Pipes. Start on the L of the lowest point of the buttress. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Negotiate a series of short steps leading to a broad scrubby ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 23m. Climb a recess in a water-scarred wall and then follow an obvious gully, which is often wet and slippery. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb the steep crack past an old peg of unknown origin. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 10m. Continue via the obvious chimney to a platform near the top of the buttress. 
&lt;br/&gt;5. 20m. Make an exposed step L and ascend 5m to a flake. Descend a metre and continue to traverse L and up to easy ground.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="100m" name="D. F. Variation" stars="*" id="54" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, May 1962.">     This number="">This route crosses Diddles and Starseeker to join Whose Route at the foot of the 7m crack on the left (south) side of the buttress. Start just R of the lowest point of Central Buttress. 
1. 16m. Climb directly to a substantial ledge (also the first belay of Starseeker). 
2. 20m. Move easily diagonally and up to the R, to belay at the foot of two narrow chimneys. 
3. 10m. Ascend the LH chimney/crack to a large ledge. 
4. 14m. A semi-circular traverse crossing a deep cleft and Starseeker leads to a wide chimney on the south side of the buttress. 
5. 10m. Climb the chimney to the prominent chockstones and traverse L to the 7m crack of Whose Route (pitch 3). 
6. 30m. Continue as for Whose Route (pitches 4 and 5).
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="95m" name="Starseeker" stars="*" id="53" fa="R. Williams, J. Whelan, Oct 1966.">     A number="">A mildly entertaining route of some variety following a fairly direct line up the buttress. Start on the northernright (north) side of the very foot of Central Buttress, at an 18m column – the delightfully named Pillar of Crud. &lt;br/&gt;1. 16m. Climb to a large ledge beneath the face of The Pillar of Crud, as for D. F. Variation. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 16m. Crux. Up the face of The Pillar of Crud using holds carefully. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 18m. Follow the chimney, moving L at the top to a ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 21m. Climb up to and sidle L of a blank wall then ascend with some difficulty to a short narrow chimney to join the platform on Whose Route. 
&lt;br/&gt;5. 24m. Climb the obvious chimney (as for Whose Route) to the next platform and then directly to the top. Finish on the ridge leading to the summit.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="125m" name="Diddles" stars="" id="52" fa="R. Mansfield, M. Tillema, 1970.">     The number="">The climb follows a deep and hidden chimney line on the right (north) side of the Starseeker Buttress. Start as for Starseeker and D. F. Variation, at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb pitches 1, 2, and 3 of D. F. Variation to start. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 10m. From the large ledge move to the obvious chimney in the corner. 
&lt;br/&gt;5. 20m. Climb the deep hidden chimney to the L and belay in a cave. 
&lt;br/&gt;6. 20m. Traverse R onto a chockstone in the RH chimney. Follow this chimney to a platform, shared with Whose Route. 
&lt;br/&gt;7. 30m. Continue to the top via the chimney.
  </climb>
  
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="44" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Improbability Drive" number="ID" stars="***" id="50" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.">
    Succulent >Succulent and sensuous! Superb climbing up the steep south facing buttress L of Linda. Start from the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge overlooking Linda. Climb the Linda chimney for one pitch (up past the lower rap station) to a belay on the highest large ledge on the L wall. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m.  Make an improbable step around to the L side of the arête and climb straight up the spicy thin flake to belay on a small ledge. This pitch can also be started from the ledge 10m below. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m.  Climb the hand crack L of the belay ledge and where it blanks out into a shallow niche, head R to face holds and up just L of the arête. Step back L above the niche and continue up the crack system to belay at the pinnacle summit. Descent:  rap-station off the summit pinnacle (50m) to the Linda chockstone. Then the 25m abseil back to the Battle Cruiser ledge.</climb>
  </climb><text id="84" class="heading3">Battle Cruiser Ledge</text>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="Organic Man" number="" stars="*" id="49" fa="E. Peacock, G. Cooper, Nov 1982.">
    Takes >Takes the steep wall L of Linda. Start as for Improbability Drive. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Climb straight up the face R of the arête until it is possible to step around the L side of the arête onto a ledge. Belay here (as for Improbability Drive). &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Step back around the arête and continue up the face R of the arête until forced to move L again into Improbability Drive. Descent as for Improbability Drive.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="125m" name="Linda" number="LI" stars="" id="48" fa="J. Moore, J. Veasey, Jan 1968. (3b): K. Prinz, L. Wood, A. Bowden, 1975.">
    The >The original finish is recommended. StartLinda starts at the base of the buttress at an obvious gully-line on the R of the south face of Central Buttress, which contains a huge chock stone at 30m. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. From Straight ground level climb straight up the wall to belay atop the large chockstone. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m.  Up the chimney and take the RH crack to belay at the base of a huge corner. 
&lt;br/&gt;3a. 30m 15. Original finish: Climb the R wall for 5m then step R. Continue up to a small ledge, then straight up for 6m (crux). Step R onto the arête and belay 5m higher, around the corner. 
&lt;br/&gt;3b. 30m 18. Linda Direct: Follow the chimney to the L of the huge corner, which becomes offwidth and poorly protected. 
&lt;br/&gt;3c. 30m 15. Linda Chimney: Climb the R wall for 5m, then step R and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the chimney. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 35m. Easily to the top.
  </climb>
   <text idclass="84text" classid="heading334">Battle>With Cruiserthe Ledge</text>exception of Linda, <text class="text" id="34">Routesall other routes between HyperspaceImprobability Drive and Youth With a Mission are all accessed from the Battle Cruiser Ledge. The ledge that starts atjust L of Mephistopheles and continues Lin untila oneleftward is rising traverse that ends overlooking the Linda chimney.</text>
  <text class="text" id="35">Descent: Rap anchors above at the top of Battle Cruiser/ down the line of Linda (75m; 1x 50m to Linda chockstone, 1x 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge). Take care where you run the rope, as they sometimes get stuck when pulling.</text>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="35m" name="Hyperspace" number="" stars="*" id="46" fa="N. Deka, D. Bruce, D. Batten, Mar 1988.">
    A >A well-protected and quality alternative to the first pitch of Starship Trooper, taking the steep RH wall of the Linda chimney. Step From the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge step around the arête into the chimney. Climb up and into the crack on the R wall to an overhang, which is passed on the L. Move back R and continue up to belay as for Starship Trooper. pitch  2..</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="46m" name="Space Cowboy" number="" stars="***" id="45" fa="D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Mar 1989.">
    Face >Face climbing that is arguably better than sex. An alternative 2nd pitch to Starship Trooper and Battle Cruiser – start from the belay ledge shared by both routes at the top of their first pitches. Climb directly above the belay into a small L-facing corner on the RH side of the arête. Layback up the flake above to a spectacular rest below a small overhang. Step R and climb straight up a short wall (crux) to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="74m" name="Starship Trooper" number="" stars="**" id="44" fa="K. Carrigan, M. Law, 1978.">
    A >A thoughtful and subtle route up the arête L of Battle Cruiser that provides an excellent first pitch to Space Cowboy. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 28m 20. Climb onto a small ledge 4m L of Battle Cruiser. Step L and follow the thin groove line just R of the arête to the same belay as Battle Cruiser. Small wire and cam placements. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 46m 22. Step around the LH side of the arête and follow the thin cracks to a ledge near the arête. Continue up and abseil as for Battle Cruiser.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="1918" length="68m90m" name="Battle CruiserTwice" number="BC" stars="***" id="4342" fa="M I. LawLewis, DL. BowmanCloss, 1978Sep 1973."> number="">Companion line to  Both pitches are magnificentBattle Cruiser. SharesStart theas samefor startBC as Twice, at the black streaked corner 6m L of Faust. &lt;br/&gt;1. 28m 1934m. Climb theup corneruntil to2m below the roof,. continueStep throughR itto via the LHsloping lineledge (crux) and upcrossing theOnce, thincontinue crackup toand theR, ledge.belaying Belay L of the base of the Twice corner. 
2. 40m 18. Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to where a steep, diagonal flake system leads out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach rap station (50m to Linda chockstone, 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge).
  in Faust. &lt;br/&gt;2. 10m. Traverse L to a belay at a ledge at the base of the big corner. It is possible to combine (1) and (2) and climb directly to this belay. &lt;br/&gt;3. 46m. Move straight up the corner through the overhangs to Battle Cruiser rap station.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="1819" length="90m68m" name="TwiceBattle Cruiser" number="BC" stars="***" id="4243" fa=" IM. LewisLaw, LD. ClossBowman, Sep 19731978.">>Both pitches are magnificent. Shares Companionthe linesame tostart Battleas Cruiser.Twice, Start at the black streaked corner 6m L of Faust. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 34m28m 19.  Climb upthe untilcorner 2mto below the roof., Stepcontinue Rthrough toit via the slopingLH ledgeline (crux) and crossingup Once,the continuethin upcrack andto R,the belayingledge. in Faust. 
2. 10m.  Traverse L to a belay at a ledge at the base of the big corner. It is possible to combine (1) and (2) and climb directly to this belay. 
3. 46m.  Move straight up the corner through the overhangs to Battle Cruiser rap station.
  Belay L of the base of the Twice corner. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m 18. Follow the corner of Twice for 6m to where a steep, diagonal flake system leads out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach rap station (50m to Linda chockstone, 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="33m" name="Once" stars="*" id="41" fa="M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978.">
    Requires >Requires strong fingers and lots of gym work. Start 2m R of Twice and climb the thin crack to a sloping ledge below the roof. Layback and finger jam straight through it via the RH line (crux) to belay as for Battle Cruiser. Abseil off (tape anchor) or finish up either Twice or Battle Cruiser.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="30m" name="Thrice" number="" stars="" id="40" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, 1987.">
    Thoughtful >Thoughtful climbing up the temporary flake system between Faust and Once, really an alternative start to Faust. Climb carefully past the loose blocks at the bottom and continue up to a short corner. Ascend this and the short wall above, stepping R to belay in Faust.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="23" length="60m" name="Bumps and Angles" number="" stars="" id="39" fa="P. Robbins, 1990.">
    Are >Are you feeling bold? This route follows the thin line up the face between Faust and Twice. Either step out L of the corner chimney of Faust (approx 30m up pitch 1) and up the line or climb the line directly through both the overlaps. Small wires constitute protection and it is unknown whether the route continues straight up or veers R back into Faust. Rap anchors as for BC.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="85m" name="Faust" number="FA" stars="**" id="38" fa="J. Moore, R. Williams, Mar 1967.">>Are you ready   Want to sell your soul? An uninspiring start leads to some fabulous climbing. Follows the L-LH facing chimney corner in the middle of Central Buttress. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Up the chimney/corner past a needle bush at 25m. Follow the line over an overhang to a belay ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Climb the awkward short crack (#4 Camalot is handy), then up the classy corner to belay. Descent: traverse L and down a groove for 10m to reach the rap station at top of Battle Cruiser.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="96m" name="Spartan Ethics" stars="**" id="37" fa="(1) S. Parsons, D. Bowman, Dec 1979. (2) D. Bowman, R. Wells, Feb 1978. (3) N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Apr 1988." number="SE">
    Sustained >Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on its L. Ascend a series of walls to a ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 36m. Up a thin crack to a small dead bush, step R and jam the crack to the top, belaying near the Faust corner. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Continue up the line of shallow corners R of Faust to a small ledge. Climb the LH crack over a bulge and continue to the top. Descend as for Faust.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Youth With a Mission" number="" stars="*" id="36" fa="(1) P. Steane, Mar 1996. (2) P. Cullen, D. Bowen, M. Burton, Feb 1982.">
    A >A steep and strenuous start leads to a curious crack line. Just L of Mephistopheles and 2m R of Spartan Ethics is a crack line up the wall. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 27m 20. Wade through scrub for 3m to the base of the wall. Up the hand crack which thins (crux), then step R to a flake when the crack falters and climb up this and over the top. Continue up the wall above to a spacious belay ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 17. Mantle above the belay to gain the base of the curious crack line. Climb past a wobbly wafer and follow the line through a small roof to a ledge. Continue up the crack for another 3m before hand traversing R into Mephistopheles. Climb this for 3m and belay. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 8m.  From the end of the hand traverse, continue traversing R around the arête and down slightly to the first belay of Third Bird. Rap station off to the R (48m).
  </climb>
   <text id="83" class="heading3">Third Bird Area  <Area</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="105m" name="Mephistopheles" stars="" id="33" fa="J. Moore, R. Williams, Apr 1967.">     Bring number="">Bring your flame-thrower or a chainsaw, and don't be surprised to meet Tarzan swinging through the trees... a bit vegetated. The only useful purpose of this route is to flag the start of the Battle Cruiser ledge. Follows the obvious scrub-laden chute 8m L of Third Bird. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb the chute to a ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Continue up the line to a belay where the chimney eases to a cleft with a sloping back. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 25m. Climb the cleft and chimney to a large ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 40m. Climb the chimney on the L for 8m, negotiate the overhang, and continue up the face via a crack to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="85m" name="Third Bird" number="TB" stars="***" id="32" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, Aug. 1973.">
    A >A reputation for quality and difficulty that is well deserved.  Follow the conspicuous crack line up the middle of face just R of Mephistopheles that continues through the roof. Start from the in-situ belay bench. &lt;br/&gt;1. 48m 16. Climb the RH side of the subsidiary pillar and up the hand crack above to belay on a large ledge 8m below roof. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 37m 18. Climb the crack through the roof to the ledge (crux). Negotiate the thin crack and bulge above and continue up on excellent rock to a belay. Descent: 85m abseil back down route; tapeSling sling anchor toat top of Pitch 12 (37m), rapRap stationbolts fromoff thereline to bottom (off to R, 48m) or traverse L and down scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors (a bit difficult to find).
(RHS) to bottom (48m). &lt;br/&gt;"Two crows skimmed by the crag lower down. 'Hey Lew - two black birds.' He looked out at them and nodded. 'Three black birds is bad luck isn't it?' I called down. He shrugged. Seconds later a third crow sailed effortlessly past us. 'Hey Lew!' He looked up. I pointed out at the gliding bird. 'Third bird!' "
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="85m" name="Infidel" number="" stars="**" id="31" fa="S. Bischoff, T. O'&apos;Sullivan, April 2012.">On>The wall with black streaks, just to the R of Third Bird. &lt;br/&gt;1. 28m 21. It is definitely all there, good thought Thought provoking climbing. Start on the face a few metres R of Third Bird. Make an unprotected rising traverse on delicate rock to the top of the hand crack on the R. Place 0.5 cam in the crack and a 0.4 and 0.75 cam in the flake above it. Traverse L back onto the black streaked face. Small (but good) nut in crack after 4-5 metres followed by an okOK #1 cam. Great moves with bomber, slightly spaced gear. Belay next to small tree and U-bolt. 1a.Alternatively, Avoidto avoid soloing up to the first protection., Climbclimb obvious crack (Banana Republic?) directly to the right of the face, Atand at about 7 metres, when the crack opens to body width, traverse L onto black streaked face and crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 16. Climb broken cracks and ledges into an obvious rightward leaning lay back crack. Nice climbing through bulge to Third Bird rap anchor. &lt;br/&gt;3. 37m 18. Finish up second pitch of Third Bird

  .</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Banana Republic" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.">
    Advanced >Advanced route finding R of Third Bird; don't forget your compass. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. Climb the hand cracks on the wall R of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. Move L and climb the shallow corners and flakes just R of Third Bird, to belay on the ledge below the overhang. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. Move back R and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Descent: abseil as for Third Bird, or traverse L and down the scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="95m" name="Butt Funkey" number="BF" stars="**" id="29" fa="(1) P. Cullen, D. Bowman, M. Burton, Feb 1982. (2) D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990. ">
    A >A sustained and energy sapping second pitch that offers excellent climbing. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 45m 18. Climb the obvious fist crack equidistant between Transfusion and Third Bird, below and slightly L of the prominent arête. Continue up through some scrub for 15m to belay on a ledge L of the base of the arête. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 50m 20. Up the face just L of the arête for 15m (crux). Step around the arête to a small ledge and then proceed up the crack above. Stay just R of the arête, passing the roof on your L, and climb to the top. Abseil back down the line. Pitch 1 originally had the distinction of originally being called what is probably up there among the worst names for a climb ever... I'm No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="42m" name="High Flyers" number="" stars="*" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Apr 2005.">
    Starts >Starts high up on the buttress between Acid Test and Butt Funkey. Climb 30m up pitch 1 of Butt Funkey and then the entire second pitch of Acid Test to start. All up including High Flier, this gives four reasonable pitches (112m total). 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 33m 16. Follow the line directly above two abseil bolts at the top of pitch two of Acid Test. Pleasant climbing with an excellent and steep hand crack at the top. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 9m 18. The LH side of the headwall following thin cracks to rap station. Abseil off as for Acid Test.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="115m" name="Acid Test" number="AT" stars="**" id="27" fa="G. Phillips, D. Fife, Apr 1996.">
    Located >Located 3m R of Butt Funkey. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 18. Climb up the wall to a small hakea tree, then from the block behind the tree climb the steep crack to belay. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m 19. Traverse R onto the buttress and follow the weakness directly up the middle of the buttress (well protected) to a U-bolt belay. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 40m 20. Up the crack on the R to the buttress above. Follow a thin line up the buttress until one can step L around the arête to a 6m long crack. At the top of this move back R and climb the excellent face above to a large ledge. 
&lt;br/&gt;4. 5m. Up the wall above to a rap station.
  </climb>
  <climb<text extraid="82" gradeclass="13heading3" length="118m" name="Transfusion" stars="" id="26" fa=" T. Costigan, A. Keller, Mar 1968." number="TR">
    Shares the same first pitch as Chicken Run. 
1. 26m. Climb and scrub-bash past the bushes to belay on the huge chockstone. 
2. 30m. Follow the chimney to belay in a cave under two chockstones. 
3. 27m. Thread a way up between the chockstones until the chimney fades out. Climb the twin cracks by following the LH line for 6m before stepping R into the other. 
4. 36m. Climb a vee-chimney after entering from the R. Cross a ledge trending R and climb a chimney until able to exit on the L.
  </climb>
  <text id="82" class="heading3">Kacktus Buttress</text>

  <text class="text" id="19">Kacktus Buttress is the first buttress L of Pooch Gully and Flange Buttress. Descent from most of these climbs is by tape abseil.</text><climb >Kacktus Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="19">Kacktus Buttress is the first buttress L of Pooch Gully and Flange Buttress. Descent from most of these climbs is by tape abseil or the rap station on Remembrance.</text>
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  <climb id="88" number="TR" name="Transfusion" length="118m" grade="13" fa="T. Costigan, A. Keller, Mar 1968." stars="" extra="">Shares the same first pitch as Chicken Run. &lt;br/&gt;1. 26m	. Climb and scrub-bash past the bushes to belay on the huge chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m	. Follow the chimney to belay in a cave under two chockstones. &lt;br/&gt;3. 27m	. Thread a way up between the chockstones until the chimney fades out. Climb the twin cracks by following the LH line for 6m before stepping R into the other. &lt;br/&gt;4. 36m	. Climb a vee-chimney after entering from the R. Cross a ledge trending R and climb a chimney until able to exit on the L.</climb>
   

  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="120m" name="Chicken Run" stars="" id="25" fa="M. Tillema, P. McHugh, 1970.">     A number="">A major botanical excursion. Start L of Roast Chicken, in a chimney with a huge chock stone at 26m. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 26m. Up awkwardly past the bushes to belay on the huge chockstone. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 21m. Traverse R across a ledge and continue up to the base of an obvious corner. 
&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Up the crack to belay on a large ledge. 
4-5. 60m. Scrubby walls and cracks lead to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="120m" name="Roast Chicken" stars="*" id="24" fa="P. Robinson, R. Mansfield, Dec 1980.">     A number="1.">A direct start to Chicken Run. Start at the first crack line L of Rooster. 
&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m.  Climb up past two small chockstones to a ledge on the L. 
&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m.  Climb a minor overhang and continue up the line until it joins the foot of pitch 3 of Chicken Run. Continue up this and belay. 
&lt;br/&gt;3-4. 60m.  As for Chicken Run.</climb>
  <climb id="91" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="2." name="Remembrance" length="45m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2012.">A great route up the left side of the Pugnacious buttress.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 21. Start just right of Roast Chicken. Climb the flakey wall to the bulge at 8m, which is quite a bit harder if you don't use the edge of Roast Chicken. Head right and up to gingerly climb up over the huge flake to the belay. 7 bolts.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 21. Up the wall from the belay to gain the arete at the fourth bolt. Excellent continuous face and arete climbing to DBB at the top. 13 bolts.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="50m" name="Pugnacious" number="PU3." stars="**" id="23" fa="A. Herington, S. Scott, Pete Steane, Feb 1990.">
    An >An exquisite single pitch route that takes a line up the steep face immediately L of Rooster. Break L out of Rooster from abelow block at the bottom of the Rooster chimneyfirst overhang, and follow the curving line of thin layaways and underclings, finishing up the open corner / crack system in the middle of the face. AbseilDescent: asrap forstation Rooster.on the LH end of the pillar (45m).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="1214" length="45m" name="Rooster" stars="*" id="22" fa="P. Robinson, C. Rathbone, Jan 1981. Direct finish: T. McKenny, C. Walch, Mar 2005." number="RO4.">
    Takes >Takes the chimney line on the LH side of Kacktus Buttress, marked by a dark roof a few metres up. Start under the roof, after scrambling carefully up into a cave. Climb up through several bulges, avoiding the last vegetated roof either to a the R or out to the L. Continue to the notch at 35m., Stepstep L and continue up the groove and arête past the small hakea. TapeDescent: abseil (48m).
  rap station on the LH end of the pillar (45m).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Kacktus" stars="**" id="21" fa="D. Fife, P. Cullen, Dec 1987. Direct start: T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2005." number="KA5.">
    Follows >Follows the face of Kacktus Buttress. With the direct start this is a great pitch – steep and committing, but with adequate protection. Start at the very base of the buttress, 3m R of a detached pillar. Climb the thin crack then move L 2m at the obvious traverse line. Climb the face above direct (keeping to the R of the fused corners) to a ledge. Continue with difficulty past a small flake on the L, directly up a thin crack to easier but not trivial ground above. Tape abseil from top of buttress (40m). or continue up as for Rooster to rap station.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="3">Arthur's Circus</text>
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  <image noPrint="false" src="Arthurs Circus L.jpg" width="500" id="13"/>
  <text class="text" id="5">High on the L at the top of Pooch Gully, is Arthur's Circus, a large reddish wall with a prominent inverted L-shaped crack. The routes from Line Tamer to High Wire are probably best located from the top by following the cliff line round to south of the Bert's Fear top abseil (GPS MTW170 – note this abseil is below the cliff tops so don’t go down to it), then continuing easily on past Pooch Gully, still along the cliff tops, and descend to the top of the Circus. A prominent cairn can be seen at the top (built May 2008). From here, rig an anchor and rap 50m to the base. Alternatively, scrub bash up Pooch Gully... ouch.  Positioned at the top of the cliffs, Arthur's Circus catches the sun and is a good location for the cooler months. It is only 15 minutes walk down from the top of the mountain.
</text>
   <text class="text" id="16">At the far L (south) of Arthur’s Circus is a buttress at the top of the cliffs with a small overhang. Two wall climbs are found on this, topped by a combined stepped finish. Both routes are safer when done as two pitches and even safer when it is not raining! Abseil in to the south of On the Road Again.</text>
   <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Scotch Mist" number="1." stars="" id="18" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Feb 2009.">1. 20m. Climb the face around the corner, L of the overhang. When it blanks out go up the R arête for 3m until one can move back onto the face. Mantelshelf onto a ledge and continue to a large platform.  
2. 10m. Straight-ahead with a finger crack on the L, followed by easier ground.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Faith, Hope and Deliverance" number="2." stars="" id="17" fa=" P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb 2009.">The small overhang R of Scotch Mist. 
1. 20m. Up through the overhang to a large flake and follow short walls to the large platform. 
2. 10m. As for Scotch Mist.
  </climb>
   <climb extra="" grade="17/19" length="55m" name="On the Road Again" number="3." stars="**" id="15" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 1 Feb 2009.">A pleasant wall climb which starts halfway up the first pitch of High Wire. Abseil in as for High Wire, a 50m rope is just enough with the stretch. 
1. 42m. Climb approximately 20m of High Wire, to just past the crux arete (18/19), and move onto the L wall. Climb just L of the nose, keeping clear of the blocks to the L, and go straight up the middle of the wall (17) to the base of a hand crack. Follow this to the ledge. 
2. 13m. As for High Wire.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="55m" name="High Wire" number="4." stars="**" id="14" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 24 May 2008.">Clean and varied climbing on the S buttress which has a huge diedre in the upper half. Start at a hand crack in the lower face. 
1. 42m. Climb the crack which splits the aesthetic clean wall to a challenging exit onto the ledge. Exciting moves up the nose (crux) to the base of the diedre. Pleasant and straightforward climbing follows. Move onto the L face a few metres below the top and belay on the platform. 
2. 13m. Traverse L and up easily to finish.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="60m" name="Clowning Around" number="5." stars="" id="12" fa="N. Deka, T. McKenny, Mar 1988.">The hand crack 15m L of Arthur's Circus. 
1. Climb the crack past an offwidth section to some ledges, then move up the shallow corner and wall above to belay on the R, adjacent to the gully. 
2. Up the awkward overhang, and then back L and up the face to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="58m" name="What a Circus" number="6." stars="" id="11" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2008.">Like one of those old time ventures. The big line L of Centre Stage. Abseil 55-60m to the start of a corner chimney. 1. 24m 17. Up the corner to a large flake, passing it on the R. Continue up, passing the tea tree easily to a bulge split by a wide crack on the R. Climb the crack with some difficulty and continue to the ledge. 
2. 20m 16. Climb the pleasant thin crack on the L and directly over the block at the top to exit on a large ledge. Up the step and follow the clean line on the L to the bushy ledge shared by Centre Stage and Circus Taz. 
3. 14m 19. The inviting wide crack on the L, which becomes offwidth (crux). You’ve guessed it, a #4 Camalot comes in handy.
  </climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">The next two climbs are located L of Circus Taz and are accessed by abseiling down Circus Taz (all the way down for Clown Face or about 35m down for the ledge at the start of Centre Stage).  Alternatively the rap station for Arthur's Circus works well (and avoids the ledge and bushes at the top of CS)</text><climbtext>
  <climb id="90" stars="***" name="Clown Face" length="20m" grade="23" fa="Roger Parkyn &amp; Dean Rollins, Oct 2012. " extra="↓" number="">A classy face of orange rock in a great location.  Nice climbing too.  Starts at "ground" level (about 45m from the top) and finishes at the Centre Stage start-ledge.  The crux is passing the bulge near BR #7(?).  9 BR to a DBB.  </climb>
   <climb extra="" grade="18 " length="20m " name="Centre Stage " number="7." stars="**" id="10" fa="P.Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2007.">A hidden gem. The clean finger crack splits the wall L of Circus Taz and finishes on the large bushy ledge. Layback and finger jam to your heart's content. Sustained and good fun. Exit by climbing pitch 3 of Circus Taz. "A Phil Robinson classic which may even be enjoyed by the masses!" quoth Kim.
  </climb>
   <climb extra="" grade="18" length="60m" name="Circus Taz" stars="*" id="8" fa="P. Robinson, A. Beech, May 2004." number="8.">The first line L of Arthur's Circus. 
1. 26m. Follow the chimney to the overhang (crux). Climb through this and follow the crack to a ledge on the L at the foot of a corner. 
2. 22m. Follow the corner to a large bushy ledge. 
3. 12m. From R end of ledge, up past awkward blocks to the top.</climb>
  </climb><climb<climb id="89" stars="**" name="Circus Interruptus" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn &amp; Dean Rollins, Oct 2012.  " extra="↓" number="">Climbs the middle part of the arete right of Circus Taz, starting at the Centre Stage belay ledge.  Crank through the lower bulge on jugs then climb the beautiful arete and face above.  The crux is near the top (it may be over-graded, according to Dean, although he did say it is "definitely harder than 18").  6 BR to a DBB.  From the belay it is possible to swing across to Circus Taz and exit up that (take some mid-sized cams).  Alternatively lower back to the start and climb Centre Stage.  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="55m" name="Arthur'&apos;s Circus" number="9." stars="**" id="7" fa="L. Wood, C. Ditto Rathbone, Dec 1976.">A hard crack to start. Locate the base of the reddish wall immediately below the inverted L-shaped crack. Start at the extreme RH end of a large scrubby ledge, below the obvious jam-crack. 
1. 15m. Up the crack to an obvious square-cut ledge, then traverse L for 3m to a stance below an off-width crack. 
2. 40m. Climb the corner on the RH side of the offwidth to the detached flake. Squeeze into the chimney, move L to the crack, and continue to the top, going inside where necessary.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Line Tamer" stars="**" id="6" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Nov 2004." number="10.">A sky-rocketing crack up a great natural line. Start as for Arthur's Circus at the base of the reddish wall, below the inverted L-shaped crack. 
1. 50m.  Climb the crack (18) for 10m to the square cut ledge where Arthur's Circus traverses L. Climb straight up from here to a small sloping ledge where the crack widens. Continue to a bulge and a 2m off-width section (crux) with a fist jam at its base. Either layback elegantly or shakily to the ledge above. Follow the crack to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb id="86" name="Polymorpha" length="35m" grade="18" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, A. Kuylaars,  May 2011." stars="*" number="11.">Varied crack climbing in a clean corner at the far R of Arthur’s Circus, Start as for Double Trouble. 
1. 35m.  A fist jam to start, then move up the crack system to the Lomatia shrub. Climb steeply past this to a ledge and up to a finger crack (crux), then climb the wall with a flake on the L and chimney on the R to a tricky exit onto a slab. Follow ledges to L and finish directly up the 3m boulder.
  </climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Double Trouble or Triple Treat                 " length="37m" grade="17" fa="P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Jan. 2012. " number="12.">The pillar at the N end of Arthur’s Circus. A traverse, a wall and cracks with a few perched blocks on the way. Abseil in to a block at the bottom of the corner at the far R of Arthur’s Circus, 3-4m R of Line Tamer. 1. 37m. Climb 4m up the L edge of the wall to gain a hand traverse without footholds. Place some gear and head R without hesitation (!) for 3-4m to the nose. Steeply up the nose until one can move to easier ground (a belay here would avoid rope drag). Climb gently over two large stacked blocks just R of the nose to hand cracks and move carefully past a loose flake to the top of the pillar, joining Polymorpha for the last few metres.
  </climb>
  
</guide>