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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Approach via the Bulging Buttress / University Buttress track, which is signposted from the Organ Pipes track. The track climbs uphill to meet the base of Bulging Buttress, traverses left around the prow, then across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir. A rock platform has been constructed under Chancellor Direct a line on the LH wall and this route is a handy reference for locating other climbs. For routes on University Buttress go down left around the arete. For routes in Avalanche Couloir head uphill from Chancellor.&lt;br/&gt;Descent varies, with some routes requiring a scramble back into Avalanche Couloir, or across to the Carpe Diem rap station (50m). There are other rap anchors on Terra Nullis (30m), Kwang Ha Lantern (20m), and Torre (8m). To descend other routes make your way to the head of couloir and walk down the couloir itself. Apart from a short dowclimb near the top the descent is straightforward." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="University Buttress is farthest left major Organ Pipes buttress. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. Splitting the RH end is Ozymandius, a strikingly broad 60m high corner that is easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track. &lt;br/&gt;Avalanche Couloir is the prominent couloir immediately R of Ozymandius that splits University and Bulging Buttresses. It offers a mixture of shorter length trad and sport routes. The couloir is divided into sunny (LH) and shady (RH) sides and has L and R forks near the top. It also offers a route down from the top of the LH end of the Pipes for those climbers who still prefer this old school method of descent." name="University Buttress" rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min" idcamping="101" campingautonumber="true" autonumberid="true101"/>
  <text idclass="117heading2" classid="heading2117">University Buttress</text>
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  <climb extraname="Two Angry Young Men" gradeid="21108" lengthextra="50m" namegrade="Two Angry Young Men21" starslength="*50m" idstars="108*" fa="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988." number="1.">Starts 15m L of Sisyphus underneath the black and orange streaked prow, with two cracks that diverge at a small roof. Takes the LH line. &lt;br/&gt;1. Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an offwidth corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks. &lt;br/&gt;2. Climb the thin LH crack (crux).</climb>
  <climb extraname="Sisyphus" gradeid="16107" lengthextra="55m" namegrade="Sisyphus16" numberlength="2.55m" stars="" id="107" fa="P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982." number="2.">Starts on the south side of the Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully. Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress. Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top. Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Pete&apos;s Power Plummet" gradeid="19106" lengthextra="70m" namegrade="Pete&apos;s Power Plummet19" numberlength="3.70m" stars="*" id="106" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1992 (to within 5m of the top)." number="3.">The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Up the nice looking but a bit lichenous wall, then the corner above, stepping L at the roof to a good belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Up the steep hand crack in the corner, then step L and up the mossy ledges and corner to the top. This pitch is not actually a doddle as sometimes reported, and is worth protecting in case of a slip. The normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Triclinicity" gradeid="16105" lengthextra="20m" namegrade="Triclinicity16" starslength="20m" idstars="105" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar 1981." number="4.">A total pile of choss. Check your life insurance policy before starting. On the buttress 8m L of Ozymandias, at the corner crack on the LH end that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the roof and continue to the top. IfFinish youup haven't died, descend by climbing down the other sidebehind the short pillar to DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Ozymandias" gradeid="16104" lengthextra="60m" namegrade="Ozymandias16" numberlength="5.60m" stars="*" id="104" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct 1966." number="5.">"Two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand, with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.</climb>
  <climb name="Blank Generation" id="103" extra="" grade="22" length="60m" name="Blank Generation" stars="***" id="103" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." number="6.">No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt. This pumpy number heads up up the steep RH wall of Ozymandias. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22. Up and R into the varied crack, following this to ledge. Belay out R as for Chancellor Direct on ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20. Back L onto arête. Around this then follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Continue up crack above (crux) to ledge. Up short wall and trend R across blocks to Carpe Diem anchors.</climb> 
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  <text class="heading2" id="17">Avalanche Couloir – Sunny Side</text>
  <climb extraname="Rebel Without Claws" gradeid="2420" lengthextra="25m" namegrade="Rebel Without Claws24" numberlength="7.25m" stars="" id="20" fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990." number="7.">A top-rope problem because natural pro was considered insufficient. This route takes the difficult line up the orange face L of Chancellor Direct. Up thin face, through the roof and up the seam to belay ledge. Rap off slings or finish up Chancellor.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Chancellor Direct" gradeid="1721" lengthextra="60m" namegrade="Chancellor Direct17" numberlength="8.60m" stars="***" id="21" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972." number="8.">A photogenic and thought provoking test-piece that attracts the crowds. This route starts at a conspicuous belay platform underneath the clean RH facing corner located at the foot of the couloir on the LHS . &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m 17. Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L. A strategically placed cam in the rope-sized crack on the lip can prevent a rope snag. Up the corner to belay at the top of detached pillar. &lt;br/&gt;2. 22m 16. Climb the delightful crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Chancellor" gradeid="1622" lengthextra="55m" namegrade="Chancellor16" numberlength="9.55m" stars="*" id="22" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. FFA: Unknown." number="9.">Takes the prominent corner line on the north face of the lowest buttress forming the L side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken R-facing corner about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L, as for Vice Chancellor. It is also possible to start up the short wall just R of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m, but it doesn't add much to the route except the possibility of a rather painful ground fall. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 16. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse L and up to small square ledge. Climb awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 16. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Vice Chancellor" gradeid="1123" lengthextra="60m" namegrade="Vice Chancellor11" starslength="60m" idstars="23" fa="G. Batten, M. Douglas, R. Mansfield, Feb 1968." number="10.">The big R-facing corner between Carpe Diem and Chancellor Direct, about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L (as for Chancellor Original Start). &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Up Chancellor to a stance. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Climb out around the chockstone, and up the final corner crack.</climb>
  <text idclass="34text" classid="text34">Routes on the Sunny Side of Avalanche Couloir are described from bottom to top (L to R). Descent for routes from Rebel without Claws to Piping Hot is from the Carpe Diem rap station (60m). It can also be done safely with 50m ropes and a short scramble. This abseil has a propensity for stuck ropes, hence the preference for 60m ropes. Walking up the gully before pulling your ropes eliminates the issue.</text>
  <climb extraname="Carpe Diem" gradeid="1924" lengthextra="45m" namegrade="Carpe Diem19" numberlength="11.45m" stars="***" id="24" fa="N. Deka, N. Smith, J. Otlowski, Apr 1990." number="11.">Seize the day by all means, but don't forget your RP's. The route is even better now that the big spike has gone. Starts up the pillar 15m R of Chancellor Direct and just L of Piping Hot. Scramble up to belay below the base of the pillar. Climb the crack for 6m until it is possible to step R onto a stance. Step up and back L to gain the base of the shallow corner. Follow the corner line for 3m before stepping R and up the edge of a flake to a niche and ledge. Climb the delicate wall over territory where the big spike once resided to reach a bulge. Gain the shallow groove above then proceed to the belay ledge and rap anchors (60m).</climb>
  <climb extraname="Piping Hot" gradeid="2025" lengthextra="30m" namegrade="Piping Hot20" numberlength="12.30m" stars="*" id="25" fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Feb 1981. Alt finish: K. Bischoff, Feb 1981. " number="12.">The shallow corner immediately R of Carpe Diem that is capped by a roof at 18m. Scramble steeply up to the start. Bridge and jam the corner to the roof. Move R under the roof (crux) and continue up broken corners to the top. Alternatively, traverse L at the roof and up the awkward crack (grade 18). Traverse around L to the Carpe Diem rap station.</climb>
  <climb extraname=""Flying grade=Dutchman"13" lengthid="62m26" nameextra="Flying Dutchman" numbergrade="13." starslength="62m" idstars="26" fa="M. Tillema, D. Klees, Nov 1972." number="13.">About 1m L of the arête of Terra Nullius is a wide crack in the wall. After climbing most of the first pitch, it is possible to make a balancy traverse R to the rap station on Terra Nullius for a neat 1 pitch route. This variant might get a star if the black moss was cleaned up. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Follow the crack line. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Up the wall to the R for 10m and over scrubby ground to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb extraname="Terra Nullius" gradeid="2127" lengthextra="30m9Þ ↓" namegrade="Terra Nullius21" numberlength="14.30m" stars="**" id="27" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1994." number="14.">Pleasant arête and face climbing on the next conspicuous arête up the Couloir from Carpe Diem. The crux is near the middle.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Reindeer" gradeid="1128" lengthextra="62m" namegrade="Reindeer11" numberlength="15.62m" stars="" id="28" fa="M. Tillema, R. Tillema, Nov 1972." number="15.">Start about 25m up Avalanche Couloir, just R of Terra Nullis at a scrubby chimney veering slightly R. &lt;br/&gt;1. 27m. Straight up the chimney which becomes more difficult where it narrows. Belay a short distance above this. &lt;br/&gt;2. 28m. Up the chimney, veering slightly R after a few metres. Continue up to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb extraname="Piledriver" gradeid="1829" lengthextra="25m" namegrade="Piledriver18" numberlength="16.25m" stars="" id="29" fa="S. Scott, A. Herington, 1988." number="16.">The face R of Terra Nullis. Move R up face to gain twin hand cracks which are followed to a belay.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Non Gradus Anus Rodentum" gradeid="1530" lengthextra="25m" namegrade="Non Gradus Anus Rodentum15" numberlength="17.25m" stars="" id="30" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Mar 2005." number="17.">Not worth a rat's arse. Takes the "obvious" corner line just R of Pile Driver. A hand crack, an overhang, a steep corner, the odd tree, some lichen and a clod or two of grass thrown in – all the makings of a traditional Pipes classic. Tape abseil.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="31">The next two climbs are found near the top of the LH fork in Avalanche Couloir, on the only east-facing buttress. This buttress is obvious from the top of the Falstaff Pinnacle.</text>
  <climb extraname="Sphygmus" gradeid="1832" lengthextra="18m" namegrade="Sphygmus18" numberlength="18.18m" stars="" id="32" fa="M. Jackson, Jan 2000." number="18.">This route follows the curving layback flake on the RH side of the buttress. Face moves lead to a thin finger crack and then to a steep layback. Finish via the easy crack system.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Clench Your Fist and Think of England" numberid="19.33" starsextra="" idgrade="3320" length="18m" stars="" fa="H. Jackson, Jan 2000." number="19.">The other route on the Sphygmus buttress. The thin crack that goes up the middle-L of buttress, with an unusual crux move to gain the finger crack proper. The face section is quite sustained for its length. Finish as for Sphygmus.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Avalanche Couloir – Shady Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Routes on the Shady Side are described from top to bottom. The first two climbs are near the top of the RH fork of the Couloir on the south side, roughly opposite Rodents of Unusual Size.</text>
  <climb extraname="Protein Pill " gradeid="17 16" lengthextra="15m" namegrade="Protein17 Pill " numberlength="20.15m" stars="" id="16" fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, 1982." number="20.">A slab with a finger crack.</climb>
  <climb extraname="" grade="21 " length="15m" name="Hot In The Sun " number="21." stars="" id="15Hot In The Sun " id="15" extra="" grade="21 " length="15m" stars="" fa="S. Scott, P. Steane, and a cast of thousands, 1989." number="21.">A prominent finger crack that widens to hands, splitting a buttress just above and to the L of Protein Pill.</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞKwang Hwa Lantern" gradeid="2713" lengthextra="20mÞ ↓" namegrade="Kwang Hwa Lantern27" numberlength="22.20m" stars="**" id="13" fa="A. Williams, Apr 2000." number="22.">The face/arête on the L, at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Start on the sloping ledge, at the base of the crack to the R, step L to climb the face then continue up arête. Six FH and a #2 Camalot to DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Torre" id="12" extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="8m" name="Torre" number="23." stars="*" id="12" fa="K. Robinson, Apr 2000." number="23.">The south side of the free standing pinnacle at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Two bolts with some natural gear lead to DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Rodents Of Unusual Size" gradeid="16 11" lengthextra="20m" namegrade="Rodents16 Of Unusual Size" numberlength="24.20m" stars="" id="11" fa="G. Cooper, Phil Jackson, 1989." number="24.">Awkward and dirty, another Cooper special. About 30m further up the RH side of the Couloir from the Falstaff Pinnacle is a good looking hand crack. Climb it if you can.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="8">The next two climbs are on the Falstaff Pinnacle and appear to cover much of the same ground. Rap in for Two Little Angels, scramble up to the first ledge for Falstaff. You can choose how you get to and from the top, jump as per the Jackson lads or tyrloean as per Garry and Simon...</text>
  <climb extraname="ÞTwo ↓"Little grade=Angels"22" lengthid="20m10" nameextra="TwoÞ Little Angels" numbergrade="25.22" starslength="20m" idstars="10" fa="G. Phillips, S. Young, 6 Mar 2007." number="25.">In their dreams! Rap in and climb up the front face of the pinnacle, to the L of Falstaff in an awesome position. 4 bolts and natural gear (cams from small to hand size). Tyrolean to pinnacle to access it, or jump...</climb>
  <climb extraname="Falstaff" gradeid="19M09" lengthextra="25m" namegrade="Falstaff19M0" numberlength="26.25m" stars="*" id="9" fa="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 2000." number="26.">Requires one amusing belayer-assisted move. About 20m up from Cecilia and overhanging the gully is the Falstaff pinnacle. The jump to and from its summit is highly recommended by the first ascentionists and is a good (if possibly a very rapid) descent option following the climb. Start at the ledge a quarter of the way up the pinnacle on the RH side. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22m 19. Climb a short hand/finger crack in the R-facing corner until a horizontal break at 8m leads out L to the front of the pinnacle. Climb the front face (crux) to a ledge 3m from top. &lt;br/&gt;2. 3m. To conquer the summit, stand on the shoulders of your belayer and don't cheat by taking the easy option around the back.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Celecia" gradeid="187" lengthextra="25m" namegrade="Celecia18" numberlength="27.25m" stars="" id="7" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981." number="27.">Marginal and loose. Two thirds of the way up Avalanche Couloir on the R, a wall is split by a thin crack widening slightly at the top. Climb the steep crack, with a strenuous finish. A couple of bits have fallen off this one recently (2004) and the grade may be a bit variable! Scramble off to the R.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Breakaway" gradeid="135" lengthextra="60m" namegrade="Breakaway13" starslength="60m" idstars="5" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967." number="28.">The forerunner of Southern Crest and not as good. Start at the vertical crack in a shallow corner, not far above the first rock step in Avalanche Couloir. &lt;br/&gt;1. 17m. Climb the crack which widens into an easy chimney. Belay on the ledge where the route joins Southern Crest. &lt;br/&gt;2. 43m. Continue up Southern Crest from pitch 4.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Southern Crest" gradeid="154" lengthextra="90m" namegrade="Southern Crest15" numberlength="29.90m" stars="" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, Dec 1967." number="29.">Ideal for beginners looking for a taste of mountaineering. This route follows the RH skyline. Start 10m up the RH side of Avalanche Couloir, directly opposite Chancellor. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Take the natural line up the crest of the sub-buttress to a large platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 12m. Walk to and climb the 5m block at the platform head. Follow a short ridge to a grassy ledge below an imposing wall with two parallel cracks. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Climb up the wall using the cracks to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 43m. Climb the short corner above to a large platform then up the greasy chimney. Climb the easy crack to a platform, step across the gap to the wall above, and climb the double crack. Follow the Bulging Buttress skyline to the top.</climb>
  <text idclass="35text" classid="text35">The next climbtwo isclimbs are on the the east face of a small buttress that is passed en route to the base of Avalanche Couloir, downhill from Southern Crest and approximately 50m L of Cold Power/Heat Pump.</text>
  <climb idname="36Aperitif " starsid="36" extra="" numbergrade="30.17" name="Aperitif " length="32m" gradestars="17" fa="D. James, H. Jackson, Jan 2013." number="30.">1. 16m 17. Start at the toe of the arête and climb the weakness trending R up the loose face past several horizontal cracks, moving up R (crux) to some flakes that cap a section of orange rock. Up the flakes to large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m 12. Up the scrubby ledges above and L to chimney and cracks. Belay on ledge. To descend, rap from spike (tape: 26m) or (not recommended) escape via roped scramble to SSSSI track above. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="The Dark Half" id="120" extra="5Þ↓" grade="19" length="15m" stars="*" fa="T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015." number="31.">A couple of metres north (R) of Aperitif, buried in the bush, is a hidden secret, a steep, black streaked wall. Short it may be but pumpy and quality climbing. Up the wall and arête, trending L near the top to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;The yellow overhanging arête above (The Light Half) is at present a project, needing considerable cleaning to make it safe&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
</guide>