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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header id="1" walk="2-3 hours, steep uphill" sun="Mixed sun and shade" rock="Slabby to past vertical conglomerate up to 300m" name="Tyndall Range" intro="Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy: it will no doubt be the scene of some more hard and long free and aid routes for the next generation.  It&apos;s a fantastic area for a walk, some great camping and offers unique climbing in a picturesque setting above a 1km wide lake.  The climbs here are all hard earned; with the approach, logistics of getting to the base, and the challenge of getting back up all contributing to a good sense of satisfaction...post ascent. &lt;br/&gt;The angle is often slabby on the surrounding buttresses, while the main face feels steeper with most terrain around vertical and a few overhanging sections thrown in to add to the exposure.  The rock is conglomerate and is very compact due to glaciation in the area.   &lt;br/&gt;Being located on the West Coast of Tasmania, the Tyndall Range is best enjoyed from November to April during a solid weather forecast.  Take winter clothing and good rainwear as the weather  can change rapidly - even in summer.  Also a map/compass or a GPS are needed to get to the cliff. An important thing to remember here is that this is a very special spot for local bushwalkers so please make an extra effort to minimize your impact.  One of the more striking things about being in the area is the unspoilt nature of the surroundings - please keep it this way. &lt;br/&gt;" history="Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including most of Tasmania&apos;s willing, tried to find a route that would go.  The cliff proved a formidible challenge with years and partners passing by before a route was pioneered up the large striking corner of the main face.  The route was climbed with Garn Cooper and there was a standoff between the two with regards to the naming - &apos;Leap of Faith&apos; or &apos;Wake in Fright&apos; - the latter referring to a broken hammock incident during the night. &apos;Leap of Faith&apos; won out and set the scene that the cliff was open for business.  &lt;br/&gt;During this period Adam Donoghue began a long distance relationship with the direct line of &apos;The Healer&apos;.  The crux pitch through the amazing overhanging prow took three shifts of lead and over 15 hours to establish - such is the difficulty of new routing in the Tyndalls.  Then in 2005 Adam was back with Gareth Llewellin to establish a route that indicated the potential for quality long and sustained free routes with the climb &apos;Deeper Water&apos;.  There are many lines in waiting, though the effort and commitment required will stop all but the die hard suffer-fest junkies out there.  If establishing a new route please respect the effort and vision of the routes already established here by using natural gear where available and bolts only as a last resort." acknowledgement="By Kim Robinson, Adam Donoghue" access="THE DRIVE: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4hrs drive from Hobart (281km) followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there from Hobart, drive to Queenstown then follow the main road north (A10) towards Burnie past the Strahan turnoff. At 13km from Queenstown you will get to a right turn onto the B28, signed as &apos;Lake Plimsol&apos;. Take this and follow it for another 11km until you reach a gravel road on the right. Park just before the gate (be sure not to block the gate). The driving is now over and the walking begins.   &lt;br/&gt;THE WALK: Walk on the 4WD road past the gate, over bridge and after about 600m turn left onto another road.  After another 200m you will see a walking register box which marks the start of the track through the bush. After some mud and scrub the track follows an open and well trodden path for most of the gain up the hill.  There is a reliable stream off to the left about half way up the hill just past the large boulder.  At the top of the hill sidle the mountain top on button grass and cushion plants till the track gets less obvious.  Now it&apos;s worth taking your bearings as you need to break from the walking track and head ENE on a faint footpad to the bivvy cave. The &apos;Leave main track here (turn left towards cairn on horizon)&apos; (see GPS coordinates below) is about the same point as when the ridge to the left of the track becomes less steep and the walkers track starts to descend up ahead). Head for a slight saddle, then once through this go past the large block with quartz veins on the right.  Next the peak of &apos;1037&apos; (on map) will appear, there is a large white quartz boulder on the left shoulder of the peak (this is near the bivy cave).  From the turnoff to the cave should take 20-30 minutes." camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Camping: There is a spacious and well protected cave with fantastic views for accommodation. It sleeps up to six people and is located under an overhanging rock shelf on the shoulder of peak '1037' (faces east). Take a tarp in case the weather comes in with some wind behind it (though generally it's well protected here). Please don't collect or burn firewood as it's prohibited in this area. There are two tarns for water out the front of the cave. Take care to ensure that you don't wash anything directly in these tarns. Also, the cave doesn't get rain to wash away things so it's well worth walking away from the cave for #1's (it really detracts from the ambiance when you can smell stale pee!). For #2's see the section below - you might be able to climb hard but do you know how to shit in the bush? How to Make Poo Porridge The supreme method for minimum impact pooing involves a technique called 'Poo Porridge' or 'PP'. The alpine environment here means that if you dig a shallow grave and use excessive loo paper that chances are it will still be there in 2 years time... not pretty or hygenic for other users. Most climbers technique of shoving a rock on it won't cut it here, it is easy for animals to disturb it and surface water easily carries the parasites and bacteria to other water sources. 'PP' has been proven in studies to breakdown in a fraction of the time by mixing soil nutrients through the poo. * Step 1: Find a site 100m or more from camp, and downhill from water. * Step 2: Dig a hole with a nut key or rock 10 to 15cm deep (the top 20cm of soil has the best nutrients for breaking down poo). * Step 3: Clinch your business deal. * Step 4: Now for the porridge bit, it sounds a bit ugly but this bit is strangely satisfying. Grab a stick and mix dirt well through the poo, the more mixed the better (it will even look less like poo after this simple trick). You can now put the remainder of dirt on top and leave stick poking out to warn others, by the time the stick falls over it's safe terrain. * Step 5: Ideally carry the paper used out in a ziplock bag - it's light and takes much longer to breakdown than the poo itself. However it you choose to leave the paper, mix it well with the porridge and pee on it if you have a reserve tank (this speeds up the breakdown process).</text>
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  <text class="heading2" id="5">Mt Tyndall</text>
  <climb id="6" name="Bunny Ears" fa="Claire Hewer, Mar 2005" stars="" number="1." length="12m" grade="12" extra="5Þ">Either abseil off DBB or scramble to the base, pleasant climbing up the short wall.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Bunny Hop" fa="Kim Robinson, Mar 2005" stars="" number="2." length="15m" grade="17" extra="7Þ">Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off DBB to reach the base. Climb the wall past a couple of horizontal breaks.</climb>
  <image id="8" height="557" width="" src="tyndallsmall.jpg" legendy="50" legendx="10" legend="true">
    <legend>6</legend>
    <legend>7</legend>
  </image>
  <text class="heading2" id="9">Lake Huntley Cliffs</text>
  <image id="10" height="608" width="" src="huntley main face.jpg" noPrint="false"/>
  <climb id="35" name="Sea Of Mirrors  " fa="Ingvar Lidman and Gerry Narkowicz. 13th January, 2014" stars="***" number="" length="125m" grade="26" extra="">&lt;br/&gt;Access: From the top of Deeper Water, follow rough footpads along the cliff top which soon become a cut track through deep scrub (the base jumpers track). Follow this past the top of Witchcraft for about 150m to where some tat on a tree branch indicates where to turn off to the cliff edge via another cut track, about 20m or so, and all up about 25 minutes walk from the camping cave. Rap from a large tree about 5m down through a gap in the bushes to a DBB. Fix this line so you can hand over hand back up to the top. Double ropes are required for the 3 raps to the ground. For the first 40m rap, trend slightly right down to the top of a small pinnacle, then another 5m down to a small ledge on the arete and a DBB. Second rap is 45m down the face to a small stance on the arete, then another 40m down the arete to the bushy terrace and a DBB on a rocky stance about 3m off the ground.&lt;br/&gt;1.40m, 26. A sustained pitch of unrelenting crimps and small sidepulls either side of the arete, with the first 20m being slightly overhanging. An outstanding pitch and a great lead by Ingvar in a 55 minute epic ascent. 15B&lt;br/&gt;2.45m, 24. From the belay, trend left for 3m then blast straight up the wall for more sustained and tenuous climbing on small holds, with 2 bulges providing the crux. Just below the belay, an overhanging arete provides some steep climbing on bigger holds out of character with the rest of the route, but a surprising and pumpy conclusion to this huge pitch. Handed to Ingvar by Gerry in a moment of weakness and fading light, after 4 lead attempts including a 10m fall. Gerry managed to finally second it free. 15B&lt;br/&gt;3.40m, 22. Up the slab to the top of the pinnacle, then step left onto small ledge and confront short vertical wall below the big slab. A tricky move followed by some careful slabbing on tiny edges to the base of the vertical headwall. A terrific section follows with some thin and challenging moves to get established on the headwall until halfway up some big cobblestone jugs materialise. Jug up on amazing big pebbles then turn the lip onto small crimps for the final run-out slab. From the DBB, jumar or batman up your fixed line for 5m to the tree. 10B&lt;br/&gt;FA:</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="32">Ice-Cream Cone</text>
  <text id="33">The Ice-Cream Cone is the cone shaped expanse of rock left of both the Barrel and the Main Face. To access the Ice-cream Cone, follow a rough pad that begins behind a large boulder approximately 80m from the top of Deeper Water (i.e. in the opposite direction to the cave). Follow this for approximately 150m, whereupon there is a slight clearing just beyond the scrub on your left. In this little clearing are two hangers on the slabs. If you sidle up against the small cliff on your right you’ve gone too far.</text>
  <climb id="34" name="Witchcraft" fa="Garry Phillips &amp; Will Bartlett, April 2012.  " stars="***" length="150m" grade="27/28" extra="" number="">Located on the ‘Ice-cream Cone’ left of the Main Face, this route provides a great day out on immaculate rock. The pitches are varied, with the crux being a steep, absorbing outing that weaves its way around the right hand arête of the Ice-cream Cone. It is fully bolted. Suggested gear: 20 quickdraws (with a couple of long ‘draws), a few screw-gates for the belays and helmets. Due to the unbroken nature of much of the route, a portaledge was very useful on the first ascent. &lt;br/&gt;1. 18m 21. A traverse pitch out of the gully on the left of the Ice-cream Cone (as you look at the cliff) that crosses the face. From the stout pencil pine climb up for a few meters and traverse right across easy ground to a short boulder just before the belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 27/28. The crux pitch. From the belay cruise up easy ground to a layback flake where the business starts. Undercling out to the arête then pump up the power up this to get to a mediocre rest. Continue up the face past a few tricky sections to a traverse left then the final corner. &lt;br/&gt;3. 17m 24. Head out right from the belay up past the Gills. Straight up past The Witch’s Eye pocket and flake to juggy finish. &lt;br/&gt;4. 30m 21. Traverse right along the diagonal ramp, then straight up the arête in a nice and exposed position to some unobvious moves around the high bugle. Continue up the arête to Eagle Ledge. &lt;br/&gt;5. 18m 19. From Eagle Ledge head straight up the wall past the bugle to the belay just below the lip of the big ledge. &lt;br/&gt;6. 20m scramble. Up from the belay onto the second tier of the ledge and left to base of last pitch. 7. 15m 19. Straight up the big crack feature to an easy finish.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="11">Main Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="12">The main face of Lake Huntley is a very impressive steep cliff up to 300m high. The following routes are on the main face on the longest continuous section of cliff in the centre of the picture above. These routes are quite serious as escape is not easy even with fixed ropes. It's not an option to scramble out as its too bushy and steep, so it's either climb or jumar out. Access: To access the main face scramble across the cliff top (follow cairns and subtle foot prints). There is a series of prows with vegetation much like a head of hair/wig. The prow just before the highest one is where the rap point is. Once you get to the position in the picture below you are close, the quartz smile marks the top of 'Cloudstreet' about 20m past this a gully where the track dips between two boulders, just up from this is the rap tree. It is a strong obvious bush (this is the anchor for the first rap), there is a purple rope tied around a branch as a marker (please leave it here). Extend the anchor with a 8m piece of rope/sling. &lt;br/&gt;1. First rap is 50m, you should rap past an obvious tree right on the edge (it will be on your L facing the cliff), then next anchor is a 2 bolt chain anchor at a stance on the sloping terrace. &lt;br/&gt;2. Second40m rap is 40m. Trend slightly R to end up on a ledge on front of buttress (this is the 4th pitch of a climb called 'Surface Tension'. There is another chain. &lt;br/&gt;3. Third30m rap is 30m. Head R so that you go down R side of pinnacle, clip a bolt as a directional. There is another chain at a stance (this is the 3rd pitch of 'Surface Tension'). &lt;br/&gt;4. Fourth60m rap is rope stretching 60mrap to the big terrace. &lt;br/&gt;5. Fifth50m rap is 50m from the edge of terrace follow rock cairns (chain) rap leftwards aiming for a ledge with chain. &lt;br/&gt;6. Sixth40m rapRap is 40m to the base.</text>
  <climb id="13" name="Leap of Faith" fa="Doug Fife and Garn Cooper (with acknowledgment to Peter Steane), 16 Dec 2000." stars="**" number="" length="200m" grade="22 C3" extra="">The large striking corner on the left edge of the Main Face. The first route completed on the main wall and one of the few continuous lines. The 'C' grade is a clean grade (i.e. no pitons were used). &lt;br/&gt;1. 50m 17. Move R across slab and to the left side of the ledge. Move around the tops of the shrubs and R across to the big ledge. Up the wall a few metres L of the line, then R into it. Continue up crack through bulge to big tree belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 10m 4. Up short corner to another big ledge at the base of the ramps. &lt;br/&gt;3. 45m 22. Up to the L, then step R to sling bush for protection. Back L to cruxy move in awkward corner, then up clean corner/ramp. At the top, step out L towards big ledge near damp corner to belay. &lt;br/&gt;4. 30m 20. Traverse R using dubious flake, then back into the main line. Pick your way up dodgy rock to belay near little pandanus. &lt;br/&gt;5. 40m 20 C1. Straight up to the roof then step R to belay at the foot of the clean corner 5m below the next roof. Mixed free and aid. &lt;br/&gt;6. 35m C3. The crux aid pitch. With the top ending 7m out from the start... steep! The line is obvious, belay at the top of the corner 4m below a small tree and bushes. &lt;br/&gt;7. 50m 14 C1. Climb to the top of the bushes and confront the overhanging off-width. After this make your way through the odd shrub to the foot of the final headwall. &lt;br/&gt;8. 30m. Easy. Solo up L around to the top and throw over the jug/haul ropes.</climb>
  <climb id="14" name="Deeper Water" fa="Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue Apr 2005." stars="***" number="" length="305m" grade="27" extra="">One of the better days climbing to be had in Australia, and a pretty solid test piece. The climbing follows the line of least resistance and weaves its way in a interesting way up the main face. The grades have been tweaked from the original description in the 'Climb Tasmania Guide'. Suggested Rack: one set wires, cams from blue Alien to #1 Camalot (or similar), 10 draws + 6 longer draws, double ropes handy. Start at the right side of the main wall where the terraces on the R meet the sheer main face and at a small bush. &lt;br/&gt;1. 50m 27. 'The Drowning Pitch'. Follow easy flakes and cracks for 10m until a traverse L across a flake leads you to the business above. The climbing is sustained and technical with a number of hard sections sure to act as a good gate keeper and a worthy test piece. A few wires and small cams are needed in a few places. A memorable and absorbing lead! &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 21. Head up from belay, then up a crack system to belay with #.75 Camalot and a FH. &lt;br/&gt;3. 45m 24. 'The Crazy Sexy Pitch' Up the left facing flake until it runs out then head R with exciting moves to the the left side of a large flake. Head up and then left with good moves through a bulge and then some slabbing leftwards to the belay. A fun pitch. &lt;br/&gt;4. 45m 26. 'The Balls in a Juicer Pitch'. Thin steep slabby moves are the order here. Head up the technical R trending line on small holds. Once through this it eases off into a cracked corner then L through a bulge (avoiding the chossy wide corner that continues up) &lt;br/&gt;5. 35m 23. Up the obvious corner then out right at the bolt to connect with the next groove. Up this, till a tricky traverse sends you to the belay stance. &lt;br/&gt;6. 15m 24. A short bouldery pitch that breaks left on easier ground after the last bolt (a bit runout). &lt;br/&gt;7. 50m 25. 'The Golden Corner Pitch' A long pitch on a proud section of rock with an exciting finish. This is the pitch that inspired the creation of the route. &lt;br/&gt;8. 30m 20. Head up and R into the corner below the chimney. Up the chimney for a few moves then traverse R around to belay at a small ledge. &lt;br/&gt;9. 20m 20. Up on cobblestones crossing the horizontal break and then up and leftwards to the belay. From here a short 5m traverse will see you back on terra-firma.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Office Hours" fa="Kent Jensen and Steve Anderton Summer 2006" stars="" number="" length="300m" grade="A?" extra="">Starts up the obvious corner about 30m left of Deeper Water. A predominantly aid route that was established by team 'Project Dare' while training for their record breaking 41 days on the wall in Kyrgystan! No pitch by pitch details as yet.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="The Healer" fa="Adam Donoghue, then Adam &amp; Alex McConnell, then Adam &amp; Scott Camps, then Adam &amp; Scott &amp; Gareth Llewellin... phew. Apr 2002." stars="**" number="" length="200m" grade="22 A3" extra="">Originally attempted as a solo aid project post a trip to Yosemite - Adam managed to do the first pitch before promptly calling for company... "it's pretty lonely up there on hooks!" The belay above the 'Diamond Prow' is about as exposed as you can get and the aiding is sustained and interesting taking in some good terrain. To get to the start use the standard rap route for the main face to get to the big terrace 200m down, head through the bush to the wall, a single BR marks the start of the climb. Suggested Rack: (standard big wall rack = plenty of everything including a big cam or 2 for first pitch (old green 5 camalot or #6 friend), also take a few pitons and heads + 10 bolt plates. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 20 A3. Aid left to R facing wide crack. Squirm up this passing a BR on the way, then up face on hooks and bolts to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m A2+. Tension traverse L on quartz dyke into the main line. Up this to the belay. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m A2+. Tricky aiding continues up the line to the DBB. &lt;br/&gt;4. 30m 20 A2+. From belay, follow line with a few free moves thrown in where the crack shuts down. Belay at DBB below steep prow. &lt;br/&gt;5. 30m A3. 'The Diamond Prow' It took a 15 hours of leading to establish this pitch, though repeats should do it in a fraction of the time! Very steep 45 degree overhang through an offset corner, DBB on the exposed perch over the lip. &lt;br/&gt;6. 40m 22. All free pitch past some thin cracks before knobs and a few bolts (no hangers) lead left around base of pillar to the L facing corner. Up this corner on gear to belay over the edge on bushes. It is also possible to finish up the last pitch of Deeper Water by heading more directly up from the horizontal break.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Live the Life " fa="F.A. J Bresnehan and G Phillips 2010 (with many thanks to Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett)" stars="***" number="" length="150" grade="28" extra="">This route starts from the monster terraces and heads up the huge orange wall. We took a portaledge due to the nature of the terrain.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1). 18m 17. 18m From the monster terrace climb the face to the base of the orange wall.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;2) 28 30m 2. 30m 28. Powerful moves off the ledge give way to easier climbing above. When the traverse line is meet the crux sequence begins. Belay on the arete.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;3) 25 20m 3. 20m 25. Up the corner to a small ledge (this section is also what Surface Tension climbs, take a #0.5 to #2 friends)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;4) 26 20m 4. 20m 26. Traverse right to the arete. And follow this to the top. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;5) 25 20m 5. 20m 25. Up the arete&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;6) 25 20m 6. 20m 25. Up the arete&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Surface Tension" fa="Adam Donoghue and Gareth Llewellin Mar 2008" stars="**" number="" length="115m" grade="25" extra="">The top three pitches are finished and provide a good outing with a great view of the main face. The first two pitches below this are a project for Adam, and bloody hard so it could take a while. This route was originally engineered as an easier alternative 'escape route' from the main wall... but it has ended up a tad harder than expected! Rap in down the main rap line to the end of the 30m rap (3 raps). &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Project - from terrace to ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Project - from ledge to belay stance. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 25. Steep climbing on good features and edges in a great position alongside the main face make this a good pitch. Bolts plus a one set of cams in the #0.5 friend to #2 friend range. Chain belay on big ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 40m 24. A sustained pitch that is slabby and thin in places. From belay step left carefully (above ledge) to natural gear then up line and corner above. Take wires and cams to #2.5 friend. Belay at chain. Scramble with rope to higher position up and right (just to R of overhangs on clean vertical wall). One bolt plus gear for belay. &lt;br/&gt;5. 45m 24. A sustained steep slab pitch that is harder than it looks, quite technical and devious.</climb>
  <climb id="19" name="Cloudstreet" fa="Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue Mar 2008" stars="**" number="" length="35m" grade="23" extra="Þ">A well protected and enjoyable steep slab in close proximity to the main wall but with a friendly and less exposed feel. Rack: 12 draws. Rap in from the bolts 5m above the quartz smile (the quartz smile is clearly visible when going across the cliff top track). Do a super careful scramble to reach these. There is a big grassy ledge at base with a big tree to belay. Delicate footwork and thoughtful climbing are the order here which culminates in a good series of steep moves on the blunt arete to finish.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="20">The following routes are on buttresses to the right of the main face. These climbs offer a good introduction to climbing in the region.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="21">Rain Dancer Buttress</text>
  <climb id="22" name="Rain Dancer" fa="Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, Mar 2005." stars="***" number="" length="80m" grade="22" extra="Þ">Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it.&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m 22. 13B to DBB&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 20. 12B to DBB (there is a DBB after 7 bolts; but keep going to the top).&lt;br/&gt;Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no easy way out unless you have some natural gear! On the first rap, trend R (looking in) and keep going past the first pair of fixed hangers in a nook after 20m of descent. On the second rap you can go straight down and this will land you on a grassy ledge near the start of the route.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="23">Big City Life Buttress</text>
  <image id="24" height="664" width="500" src="Tyndalls_BigCity_Topo_20091101.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <climb id="25" name="Big City Life" fa="Simon Young and John Fisher, 22 Jan 2008 ." stars="***" number="" length="135m" grade="26 " extra="(23A0) Þ">Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped. Access: As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m a fair way left (facing out) to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush (not the DBB for the grade 26 version of pitch four) continue with three more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around un-roped on. Suggested Gear: Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from 0.3 to #2 Camalot + another #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating over-vertical headwall (via the left-leaning, right-facing shallow corner). Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab (this slab is a very run-out way to finish; it is possible to chicken-out leftwards on easier ground past another bolt). Belay on comfy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 18. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab (and another bolt) to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear. &lt;br/&gt;4. 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted. &lt;br/&gt;5. 15m 13. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="Urban Sprawl Variants" fa="John Fisher (2b) and Simon Young (4b), Jan 2008." length="35m" grade="20" stars="" extra="" number="">These are variant pitches on Big City Life. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires. &lt;br/&gt;4b. 35m 19. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left (and a little downward) across slab into BCL (this dog-leg means double ropes are nice). The first ascent team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not recommended.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="26">Feral Prow</text>
  <climb id="27" name="Bleeding Ferals Prow" fa="Neil Monteith &amp; Hannah Lockie Jan 2006." stars="" number="" length="" grade="21" extra="">Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us! Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff). Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="28">How Hard Can It Be Buttress</text>
  <climb id="29" name="How Hard Can It Be?" fa="Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett 20 Feb 2010." stars="***" number="" length="165m" grade="23" extra="Þ">A great moderate adventure route, taking a line up some good features on the large buttress at the Northern end of the lake. Although appearing broken when viewed from the top of the main wall, the climbing is surprisingly consistent and generally on immaculate rock. Fully bolted, it provides a fun long route that is more accessible to the average climber than the routes on the main wall. The first pitch's hanging arete provides amazing exposure for the grade. Access: From the cave head NE past Feral Prow aiming for furthest significant visible buttress. Walking is easy and open except for a 20m short scrubby gully. A cairn marks the start of a faint pad through this. Once on the other side head low along terraces to traverse onto the flat slabs that cap the buttress. Head down off the East side and along more terraces heading back towards the main wall to end up on a big ledge facing the main wall. The first U bolts are easily found on the left end of this ledge leading down the slab (not over the headwall). Takes about 20min from the cave and is not as epic as it sounds! To get to the bottom: 1. 15m. From the initial bolts rap down slabs to anchors next to arete. 2. 30m. Rap left over arete down headwall (NOT straight down wall where route goes) to reach big grassy ledge. Next anchors are on rock ledge a few metres down from big grassy ledge. 3. 17m. From U-bolts on arete straight down to next ledge. 4. 40m. Following arete for 20m then straight down to stance where obvious quartz dyke meets arete. 5. 27m. Swing left into corner/scoop then down to stance on arete above prow. 6. 25m. Down left side of prow to hit small ledge with 2 FH. To get to the top.&lt;br/&gt;1. 23m 23. From small ledge head straight up wall for 10m then follow bolts out right to airy exposed stance on arete (crux). Climb thoughtfully up blunt arete to belay on ‘The Nose’.&lt;br/&gt;2. 27m 16. Head up from ‘The Nose’ belay into scoop/corner in slab. Straight up this to the beautiful quartz dyke, then right along dyke to belay at stance on arete.&lt;br/&gt;3. 42m 19. Up corner above belay to thin moves at overlap (crux) then up easier angled arete to grassy ledge.&lt;br/&gt;4. 17m 18. A boulder straight off the belay leads to pleasant, easy climbing to next ledge.&lt;br/&gt;5. 15m 16. An average access traverse pitch. Down climb off back right of ledge, step across the gap, then climb up to the next ledge (to finish 10m away from previous belay, at same height!).&lt;br/&gt;6. 27m 21. Crank through initial steep bulge, then up face/groove to a rest. Continue up thin, sustained face to belay on arete.&lt;br/&gt;7. 14m 10. Straight up next to arete. (p6 &amp;p7 link easily)&lt;br/&gt;Suggested Gear: 2 Ropes for abseils (climb on a single), 14 Draws, screwgates for belays, helmets.</climb>
  <image id="30" height="604" width="" src="tyndalls topo.jpg" noPrint="false"/>
</guide>

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