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Guide
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<guide guidestars="***"><text class="heading1">Oatlands</text><text
        class="intro">Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates. </text><text
        class="text">Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.
Park at the picnic area near Milk Point and walk across the Top Dam to get to the areas.
The Devils Kitchen is the obvious, enormous roof and is clearly visible from the parking area.
To get to the southern areas such as the Yellow Cave and Funky Town it is quicker to park near the bottom dam and walk across it.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsmap3.jpg" width="800"/><text
        class="heading2">Dead Sheep</text><text
        class="access">This is the small cave and wall to the left of the Rumble Cave. It is the furthest left of the caves in the line of cliffs that face the top dam. It has the skeleton of a dead sheep in the right side of the cave. All these problems are sandy and need more cleaning.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdeadsheepa.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
        name="Fencepost Left" number="1."
        stars="*">Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fencepost Right" number="2."
        stars="       ">Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip. Either traverse left and finish as for no. 1, or do the direct slopey mantle (project)</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="The Tomb of the Dead Sheep"
        number="4."
        stars="       ">Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Lamb Chops" number="5."
        stars="       ">Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mutton Dressed as Lamb"
        number="6."
        stars="       ">Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="6.1."
        stars="*">Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out. </problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Mutton" number="7."
        stars="       ">Up face to slopey topout.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="8."
        stars="       ">Up face to slopey topout</problem><text
        class="heading2">Rumble Cave</text><text
        class="access">This is the first sizable cave that you come to when walking from the top dam. It faces north and is warmer than the other areas.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsritj4.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7"
        name="Fire in the Hole" number="1."
        stars="**">Sitstart on pedestal on left edge of cave and head out right to top out</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Project - up the black rock on the left of the cave, starting from right at the back</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Project - Start as for no. 1, but continue traversing the lip of the cave rightwards to finish up Flounder.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Thriller in Manilla" number="4."
        stars="***">Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Rumble in the Jungle"
        number="5."
        stars="***">Start off flat hold in back of cave, out through jugs to lip and top out</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Finish Rumble in the Jungle to the right</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsritj5.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project - Crawl into the back of the cave to the right of the start of Rumble in the Jungle. Climb out through sandy holds in the roof to finish on the starting hold of Rumble in the Jungle.</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsritj6.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
        name="Flat Head" number="1."
        stars="*">Start as for the Flounder sitstart, and traverse the lip leftwards to finish as for Rumble in the Jungle</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Flounder" number="2."
        stars="**">Sitstart under lip and climb up on slopers 1m left of corner. The stand start off the big sloper is V4.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Yoga" number="3."
        stars="       ">Sitstart up short hanging corner</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Start as for yoga, move right on slopers to finish as for Congaline.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Congaline of Suckholes"
        number="5."
        stars="       ">Sitstart about 2m right of corner on crumbly edges</problem><text
        class="heading2">Blackberry Jam Wall</text><text
        class="access">This short vertical wall is about 50m to the left of the Devil's Kitchenette and has some OK easy problems.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsblackberry.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="Blackberry Jam" number="1."
        stars="       ">Traverse the featured wall from left to right, without using the top</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">There are 3 or 4 easy upward problems you can do on this wall</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Devil's Kitchenette</text><text
        class="access">This smaller cave is about 100m to the left of the Devil's Kitchen</text><image
        src="Oatlandskitchenette1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="       "
        stars="       ">Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot in under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="       "
        stars="       ">Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="The Cheeky Little Devil"
        number="2."
        stars="**">Sitstart from low flake, up and right, then back left and topout</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Kitchen Bitch" number="3."
        stars="**">From low sitstart climb out the largest bit of the roof, finish matched on lip. A grade harder with the top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="1844" number="4."
        stars="*">Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil</problem><image
        src="Oatlandskitchenette2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V6" name="Gremlin" number="1."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
        name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Optional top out to the left</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><text
        class="heading2">The Devil's Kitchen </text><text
        class="access">This is the huge cave visible from the parking area.</text><text
        class="heading3">Left Side</text><text
        class="text">The left edge of the cave has some easier warm up problems.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdk3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
        name="Sorted" number="1."
        stars="*">Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Go upward from part way along the rail</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted</problem><text
        class="heading3">The Antichrist Area</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdk4.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V7"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V10" name="The Antichrist" number="2."
        stars="*">Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V7/9" name="Anti-Problems" number="2a."
        stars="*">The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V11" name="The Gambler" number="3."
        stars="*">Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Trident" number="4."
        stars="***">Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V9" name="Scab Robinson" number="5."
        stars="*">Big jump out to lip from two crimps, FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V8/9" name="The Devil's Tongue"
        number="6."
        stars="       ">Hikers problem. Start from crimps and jump out to lip, feet stand on the sandy stuff. FA Kim Robinson </problem><text
        class="heading3">Vanishing Point Area</text><text
        class="text">This is the next section of the cave to the right.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdk5.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Mega hard project</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">FA Campbell Godfrey</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Kim's project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V13" name="The Vanishing Point" number="4."
        stars="***">Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. FA Tyson Atwell</problem><text
        class="heading3">Darkside Area</text><text
        class="text">This is the wall above the lip of the cave to the left of the fallen block, and to the right of the finish of Vanishing Point.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdk6.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Up face from jugs at lip</problem><text
        class="text">The following problems are in under the roof on the right hand side of the cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdarkside.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V13"
        name="Healing Hands" number="1."
        stars="       ">FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V1" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Traverse right to left along rail</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V11" name="Darkside" number="3."
        stars="**">Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left, FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="Darkside Remix" number="4."
        stars="       ">Kim's Project - Start about 3m right of Darkside. Move into the crux of Darkside, then keep traversing out left to the lip of the cave and finish up the wall.</problem><text
        class="heading3">Right Side</text><text
        class="text">This is the far right hand side of the cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdk rightside.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project - Up from lip</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Project - Up from lip</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Sam's project - through roof</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V7?" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Through far right side of roof</problem><text
        class="pagebreak">
  </text><text
        class="heading2">The Fallen Block </text><text
        class="text">This is the large freestanding block that sits in front of the right hand side of the Devil's Kitchen. It is often overgrown with blackberries, you might need to do some gardening to get to the problems.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsblock3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6V5"
        name="Flat Out" number="1."
        stars="       ">Very low sit start, then up on slopey pockets</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsblock1a.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V2/3"        grade="V2/3" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Start underneath overhang and pull up and over</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Slab just right of overhang</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="VE" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="VE" name="       " number="45."         stars="">Slab</problem><problem
      ">Slab</problem><problem  extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"         name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Awkward sit start 2m left of Cripple</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Short and Sweet" number="7."
        stars="*">Start on the two pockets of Cripple, but pull up and left to the big jug and the top</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Cripple" number="8."
        stars="*">Sit start at two pockets on the left edge of the roof. Head out right to the arete and then finish up to the right.</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsblock2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VV6/7?"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Hard pull off ground from under lip about half way between Cripple and Fallen Angel, then up on slopes.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fallen Angel" number="2."
        stars="*">Pull up from sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Lucifer" number="3."
        stars="*">Pull up from pocket, starting off block</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><text
        class="heading2">Highball Wall</text><text
        class="access">This is the high orange vertical wall, which is the next bit of rock to the south of the cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandshighball.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
        grade="V1?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Up the highest part of the wall</problem><text
        class="heading2">Warm Up Blocks</text><text
        class="access">These angled yellow free standing blocks are about 80m south of the Devil's Kitchen, on the next bit of rock that you come to.</text><image
        src="Oatlandswarmup.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Sitstart from flake</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Wedgie" number="3."
        stars="       ">Sit start about 3m left of arete on horizontal break</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="4."
        stars="*">Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Getting Warmer" number="5."
        stars="*">Left to arete then up it</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Snappy Direct" number="6."
        stars="       ">Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Snappy" number="7."
        stars="       ">Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Comedy Value" number="8."
        stars="       ">Up thin wall to slopey topout</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="9."
        stars="       ">Project - traverse slopey lip to top</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Dull Blade" number="10."
        stars="       ">Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Warm Me Up" number="11."
        stars="**">Up jugs on right side of block</problem><text
        class="heading2">Backdoor Block</text><text
        class="access">Head up the corridor to the left of the Warm Up Blocks to find this boulder with a distinctive overhanging prow.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsbackdoor.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Up to the left of the overhang</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V5" name="Aphex Twin"
        number="2."
        stars="*">Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Kiche the Curry Dog" number="3."
        stars="*">Out through roof and top out</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" name="Backdoor" number="4."
        stars="*">Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout</problem><text
        class="text">The next boulder problem is on the short arete just opposite Backdoor, on the same chunk of rock as Wedgie (Warm Up Blocks).</text><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Spearhead" number="6."
        stars="       ">Start using RH crimp and left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout.</problem><text
        class="heading2">Hidden Wall</text><text
        class="access">This is the high wall that is partially obscured by the Backdoor Block.</text><text
        class="text">The left hand end of the wall, which is opposite to the Backdoor Block, forms a slab.</text><image
        src="Oatlandshiddenslab.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V0" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Easy slab to left of stump</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Eloise's Slab" number="2."
        stars="       ">Slab to right of stump</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V4"
        name="The Disposable Heroes of Hiphoprisy" number="3."
        stars="       ">Tricky slab directly below right hand stump</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Go back to the gym" number="4."
        stars="       ">The slab to the right of green rock on pockets.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Jando's Masterpiece!"
        number="5."
        stars="       ">Use brushed and non-brushed holds up most lichenous part of the slab. Would probably lose a grade in difficulty and gain a grade in quality with a decent clean.</problem><text
        class="text">Further to the right the wall gets steeper and higher.</text><image
        src="Oatlandshidden1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
        grade="V2?" name="Kim's Highball" number="1."
        stars="*">Up to flake and then to top</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Project - Up to loose jugs and then dyno to flake to join no 1</problem><text
        class="text">
  </text><text class="text">
  </text><problem
        extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V7" name="Blood Lust"
        number="3."
        stars="**">Start at jugs under roof near left side of fallen block. Up and right via crimps to slopey ledge and the top.</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Project - Sitstart at very big jugs then up via thin sharp edges to sloping ledge, high top out</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V6" name="Time" number="5."
        stars="**">Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds.</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V6?" name="Time LHV" number="5a."
        stars="       ">Project - Start as for Time, then trend left at half height to meet no 4. and finish as for that</problem><text
        class="text">To the right of the main face is a small overhanging face.</text><image
        src="Oatlandshidden2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
        name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Sitstart under little rooflet, up on thin holds then jump for jug</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="7."
        stars="       ">Sitstart under little rooflet at flake, up on thin holds then jump for jug</problem><text
        class="text">The far right hand side of the wall ends in a sharp steep arete.</text><image
        src="Oatlandshidden3.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
        grade="V5?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">High steep arete. Done by Kim?</problem><text
        class="pagebreak">
  </text><text
        class="heading2">Lloyd's Wall </text><text
        class="access">This vertical wall is on the north facing side of the point to the south of the Warm Up Blocks.</text><image
        src="Oatlandslloydswall2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
        name="Grendel" number="       "
        stars="       ">Start just left of the Lloyds engraving on the left hand side of the wall (the obvious left sweeping arc). Sit start at pinch (feet off slab), up via under clings to your left and sharp edges to your right. Top out using good holds at lip.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V6" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Reachy to first hold</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Lloyd's Dyno" number="3."
        stars="*">Dyno to top from good hold</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="       "
        stars="       ">Project sit start to Lloyd's dyno. Start 1m right, up thin flake, then left to good hold</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Campbell's Problem"
        number="       "
        stars="       ">5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab</problem><text
        class="text">The middle section of the wall forms a high cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandslloydswall2a.jpg"/><problem extrawidth="(SDS)500"/><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Nettle Lover" number="1."
        stars="       ">Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Cardboard Thin" number="2."
        stars="       ">Sitstart and up into curving undercling</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Itchy and Scratchy" number="3."
        stars="*">Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin.</problem><text
        class="text">There are a couple of highball lines (4&amp;5) that will go through the cave when someone works up the balls.</text><text
        class="text">On the far right of the cliff line is a small overhang.</text><image
        src="Oatlandslloydswallright.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)"
        grade="V3/4" name="Ren" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start on good (loose) edge and good RH hold, up and right to good hold below lip, move left slightly to top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(Hang)" grade="V4/5" name="Stimpy" number="2."
        stars="*">Semi hang start using left toe hook, dynamic moves through reasonable holds to lip and top out slightly right of centre.</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Egg Boulder</text><text
        class="access">Around the corner from the Lloyd's Wall area is a free standing boulder on the shore of the lake.  There are a couple of fun problems.</text><image
        src="OatlandsEgg-01.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4"
        name="Green" number="1."
        stars="*">Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">As for 1 but move right via good holds to arete, then to top.</problem><image
        src="OatlandsEgg-02.JPG"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2"
        name="Frixion" number="3."
        stars="       ">Rock onto the blankish black slab and to top via mossy holds. Fun slab problem.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Saddam's Slab of Torture"
        number="4."
        stars="       ">Right hand arete and slab.</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Gorse Factory</text><text
        class="text">This is the two tiered crag past the Egg Boulder and before the Bakehouse. It has a large clump of gorse in front of it.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsgorsefactory1.jpg"/><text
        class="text">This is the left hand side of the lower tier, in behind the gorse.</text><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Wombat Fucker" number="1."
        stars="       ">Stand start above the wombat burrow.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Project - Start on the good flat hold and traverse right, and up into the arch</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Project - Start 1m right of no 2. and pull straight up, don't use holds on the arch.</problem><problem
        extra="(Hang)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Hang start on the right side of the arch and up</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Gorse Fucker" number="5."
        stars="*">Sitstart on slopers on the right end of the wall. Pull up and left, don't pull round onto the slab.</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Bakehouse</text><text
        class="access">This high buttress is about 50m to the left (north) of the Yellow Cave. There are several lines yet to be done here.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsbakehouse.jpg" width="500"></image><problem
><problem extra="(SDS)"
       extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">project</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V?" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Project harder left start to Chocolate Eclair</problem><problem
        extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3" name="Chocolate Eclair"
        number="4."
        stars="***">The stunning arete up the centre of the wall, start on slopers to the right.  A little high.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">project</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Yellow Cave</text><text
        class="access">This large cave is about 20m to the left of the bottom dam</text><image
        src="Oatlandsyellowcave.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"
        name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Up through roof from sitstart at the back of cave.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="2."
        stars="*">Up into finish of Sanguine from under roof.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Sanguine" number="3."
        stars="***">Traverse left on slopers then up for a couple of moves to finish on flat jug</problem><text
        class="pagebreak">
  </text><text
        class="heading2">The Island</text><text
        class="heading3">The Island - Dam Side</text><text
        class="access">The cave on the side of the island that faces the dam has some great problems. Access is easy as long as the lake is dry!</text><image
        src="Oatlandsisland3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
        name="Spirulina" number="1."
        stars="*">Hang start on the large jug, climb up to the crack, jam through it and battle over the top FA Dave James</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="       " number="2."
        stars="*">Start at back of cave and climb out on jugs and jump around lip to big slopey basin. Awaits a topout, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V5" name="       " number="3."
        stars="*">Climb out from back of cave to big jug on lip and traverse the lip rightwards to finish up La Nina. Direct finish is a project. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Start as for La Nina and traverse the entire length of cave to the start of Spirulina. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="La Nina" number="5."
        stars="***">Start on jugs on the back wall 2m left of El Nino. Straight out to lip then finish right and up, FA Jon Nermut</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V8" name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Direct Finish to La Nina, FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="El Nino" number="7."
        stars="*">Start at the right hand end of the cave. Out to lip then up and slightly left, FA Jon Nermut</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name="BuzzyLand" number="8."
        stars="*">Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino. FA Kim Robinson</problem><text
        class="heading3">Marys Wall</text><text
        class="text">To the right of the cave is a long slabby wall. Most of these problems are still quite lichenous.</text><image
        src="marys_slab.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V2" name="Pagan Arse Bandit" number="1."
        stars="">Start just to the left of the start of Buzzyland. Reach high to slopers and then straight up slab.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" number="2."
        stars="">Project - up slab above right most little arch. A sitstart might go as well.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" number="3."
        stars="">Stand start on 2 finger pocket, up to crimp to ledge and top out. Can also be done as a sit start at about V5.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" number="4."
        stars="">Straight up the middle of the face, trickier if you are shorter.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Julie's Flake" number="5."
        stars="*">Up layback flake. Slightly harder with a sit start.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Hairy Mary" number="6."
        stars="">Slab on slopers</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V0" name="" number="7."
        stars="">Thin crack left of arete. Can be done with a sit start.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" number="8."
        stars="">Easy slab on ledges right of arete to harder top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" number="9."
        stars="">Slab on slopers</problem><text
        class="heading3">The Island - Town Side</text><text
        class="access">These buttresses face the town. They look a bit sandy but provide some good climbing.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsisland.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V8"
        name="Pungi" number="1."
        stars="**">Hang start and up and right on pockets to slopey topout. Stand start is V7.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Aeon Flux" number="2."
        stars="*">Sitstart out small roof to pocketed face, hard mantle top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsisland2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1"
        name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V1" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">
    </problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V3" name="Spreadeagled" number="6."
        stars="       ">Jump for lip then mantle.</problem><text
        class="heading2">Dam Wall</text><text
        class="access">To the right of the bottom dam is a long, steep, featureless wall</text><image
        src="Oatlandsdamwall.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5"
        name="Crack Head" number="1."
        stars="*">About 50m right of the dam is a very steep hand crack usually full of cobwebs. Sit start on finger locks, up to jams, top out on ledge</problem><text
        class="access">About 25m to the right of Crack Head is a free standing boulder, a bit fractured and loose but has a couple of fun problems.</text><image
        src="OatlandsBoulder.JPG"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"
        name="Iron Maiden" number="1."
        stars="*">Sit start on good holds, up to curving arete, use holds only on arete.  Top out at apex of boulder.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Fractal" number="2."
        stars="       ">Start as for previous problem, up middle of face using good edge and loose finger crack, dyno to apex. No holds on arete.</problem><text
        class="heading2">Funky Town </text><text
        class="access">To get to Funky Town walk across the bottom dam, and then walk left around the point. Follow it around to find a cave in the back of the point, on the opposite side to the Yellow Cave.</text><text
        class="heading3">Funky Town Boulder</text><text
        class="text">There are a couple of lines on the free standing boulder you pass on the way to the Funky Town Cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsfunkyboulder1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V?" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
        grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="       ">Stand start off slopes with foot in large pocket at base of boulder.  Up to slopey lip and top out. Sit start is a project.</problem><image
        src="Oatlandsfunkyboulder2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Hang)"
        grade="V5" name="Stuck on You" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start off slopey side pull and horizontal crimp, with the help of a couple of pads or a rock.  The full sit start is a project.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " number="2."
        stars="*">Stand start off edges, static up and left to good hold, power up to jug. Top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="       " number="3."
        stars="*">Start slightly right of 2 on edge and slope, powerful move up and right to large open pocket, top out.</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Unstuck" number="4."
        stars="*">Sit start 1m right of arete, up to sloper and top out</problem><problem
        extra="       " grade="V10+?" name="       " number="5."
        stars="       ">Project - traverse right to left around the boulder to link into 1 on the other side - very hard due to a lack of footholds and average handholds.</problem><text
        class="heading3">Funky Town Wall</text><text
        class="text">There have been some lines attempted on the high slab to the left of the cave.</text><text
        class="heading3">Funky Town Cave</text><text
        class="text">This is the large black cave.</text><image
        src="Oatlandsfunkytown.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V12/13" name="Fade To Black" number="1."
        stars="       ">Start on the horrendous pinches and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Kung Fu Fighting" number="2."
        stars="       ">Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V8/9" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Was V7 until the starting hold broke. FA Sam Edwards</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3a."
        stars="       ">Project - Start on the slopes just to the right of 3 and up to the same finish</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " number="4."
        stars="       ">Traverse</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V10" name="Groove Train" number="5."
        stars="       ">Start on slopes with heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not. FA Kim Robinson</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V12" name="       " number="6."
        stars="       ">Project</problem><text
        class="heading2">The Electric Avenue</text><text
        class="access">These are the short walls on the next point across from Funky Town. The first section has potential for quite a few more short, moderate problems.</text><image
        src="Oatlandselectric2.jpg" width="800"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
        grade="V2" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Electric Avenue" number="2."
        stars="       ">Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="3."
        stars="       ">Start at flat hold 1m right of arete</problem><text
        class="heading2">Electric Wall</text><image
        src="Oatlandselectric1.jpg"/><text
        class="text">Around to the right is this higher wall, just to the left of the fence. More cleaning is needed on these problems.</text><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="       " number="1."
        stars="       ">Sitstart and up flakes, go left to finish, or straight up which is harder</problem><problem
        extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Blind Mullet" number="2."
        stars="       ">Either sitstart as for no 1. or come in from holds to the right. Up to flake/ramp and to top.  Sit start from the right is a project.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="Electric Lazyland"
        number="3."
        stars="*">Dyno from flake to top and desperate topout. Sit start may also go.</problem><problem
        extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="4." stars="       ">Project - pockets and thin flake 1m right of arete</problem></guide>