<guide version="3"><header access="" acknowledgement="by Dave Gray" history="" intro="The Murchison Gorge extends from the Murchison dam to the highway bridge on the outskirts of Tullah. The floor of the gorge has been flooded, to form Lake Rosebury and the dam access road provides access to the crags. The main crags are composed of Mt Owen Conglomerate, of mainly quartz pebbles in a quartz matrix. Crags are typically either very rough in texture, with holds comprising exposed pebbles or smooth walls that have been subject to glaciation.<br/>The crags vary from 5m boulders to 200m walls, set in thick, West Coast scrub.<br/>Below the road are exposures of Mt Reid Volcanics, notably, the crag beneath the lookout." name="Tullah" rock="Conglomerate" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="5 min" id="1"/><image noPrint="true" src="tullah1.jpg" width="" id="2"/><image noPrint="false" src="tullah2.jpg" width="" id="3"/><climb extra="" grade="10" length="80m" name="Swearah Boyle" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="David Gray & Sarah Boyle Jan 2007.">Excellent climbing on a large, quartz conglomerate, buttress close to the town of Tullah. Protection is sparse and hard to place. Although, technically easy, the abrasive nature of the rock and the long fall potential makes this a climb where a lead fall would be unwise and quite dangerous.
Start: At an obvious low angle buttress, a few kilometers from Tullah along the Murchison Dam access road. The walk to the base of the climb, starts from a power pole, which is stayed to a conglomerate boulder, just downstream of the buttress. A hidden feature of the buttress, is a 10m glacier polished overhanging “wave” wall, forming it’s toe. Currently, access to the start of the route is to out-flank the wave on it’s left side, then work your way up the gully on the right until the buttress’ right wall can be breached, from where a steep vegetated ramp can be followed, back down, to above the be undercut toe. Tree belay.
1. 30m 10. Step left onto the slab, following some left trending weaknesses toward the centre of the wall, before the angle eases. Trend back right to belay from a tree and cams in a green pocket.
2. 50m 10. From the belay, trend up and left, a few metres. Climb directly, up and over an overlap, at a small bush. Continue up the slab until it steepens, then move left, to finish up the left side of the buttress. Bollard and tree belay. </climb></guide>