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Guide
<guide version="3"><header>
  <header access="The Wedge River picnic ground (signposted) is approximately 135 km (2 hrs) from Hobart on the Strathgordon Road, with a Park entrance fee booth just past Maydena. There is free camping, toilets, picnic shelter and water in the picnic ground, if you want to make a longer trip out of it, and the Strathgordon pub is about 20mins down the road. The Sentinels walking track from the picnic ground climbs up a large gully that splits the main area of cliffs. The track passes by the foot of the Moonlight Buttress and provides access to climbs that start on the gully walls (about 40 minutes walk). You can see it all from the road when you get there." acknowledgement="by Tony McKenny, originally published in Craglets 6." history="" intro="NB Feb 2016. This area burnt in recent fires. May be worth checking with Parks on damage etc before making the long drive out there.&lt;br/&gt;Okay, so it'&apos;s not Arapiles, even if it is made of quartzite, but it does offer some unusual trad climbing in a great setting... and a gentler alternative to the short, brutal desperates of nearby Adamsfield. The broad sweep of the rugged peaks and white quartzite cliffs of the Range provide one of the most striking views on the drive to Lake Pedder. Though the cliffs are broken by vegetation, there are good routes on the long slabs and the gully sidewalls provide steeper face climbing on surprisingly good rock." name="Sentinel Range" rock="Alpine quartzite" sun="Morning sun" walk="40 min" id="1"/><image  camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="sentinelsMap.png" width="" id="2"/><image  height="753"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="SentinelsUpload.jpg" width="500" id="3"/><text  height="434"/>
  <text id="20" class="heading3">Moonlight Buttress</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="305m" name="Moonlight Buttress" number="1." stars="" id="4" fa="P.Robinson, J.Wills-Johnson, Nov 1978.">Follows the main slab, starting at the bottom right hand corner of the face. The first two pitches are good value, and there are three major steps above, broken by vegetated rock platforms. The crux wall is directly above the first platform; don't avoid it by taking the easier scrubby wall to the left! The final 55m headwall ends at the top of the isolated buttress. Descend down gully to the left and traverse off the buttress back right (west).</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="300m" name="The Bastion" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="R.Williams, H&amp;M.Jackson, 1993.">As for Moonlight Buttress, but traverse airily out right above a large roof to the arête at about 50m. Continue to follow the right arête when possible. Climbing is easy at about 14/15 except a short, steep crux which could be avoided.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="60m" name="A Family Affair" id="6" fa="T.McKenny, D.Williamson, Feb 1997.">Walk up the Gully about 50m to the foot of the second subsidiary slab on the left which ends in an orange overhanging wall. Good climbing on solid quartzite. 1. 40m. Up the slab easily until the rock steepens. Climb up to the overhang and hand traverse left underneath the roof, with a very long stretch to reach a belay. 2. 20m. Traverse back right across the lip of the roof and climb the edge of the Bastion slab.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="110m" name="Wrong Way, Go Back" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="J. McKenny and K. Gray, Feb 1997.">Continue up the gully to a large slab with a rock "pulpit" in the middle. The climb starts down and to the left of the pulpit below a steep short wall. An interesting excursion across the cliff, with some temporary rock. 1. 50m. Climb the wall crossing a horizontal break to gain the slab. Follow a curving line on the left of the shallow gully beside the Pulpit, moving across to belay on the Pulpit. 2. 50m. Straight up and then curve to the right to belay on the small stance. 3. 10m. Up to scrubby ledge. 
To return to the Gully, scramble up to join the top of the second tier of Moonlight Buttress and traverse along an improbable ledge right from the notch. When this wide ledge runs out, step up left and continue until the track can be reached.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="150m" name="Shenanigans" id="8" fa="T.Meldrum, D.Williamson, T.McKenny, Feb 1997.">Starts to the right of the Pulpit. A good route on sound rock. 1. 50m. Climb the short wall to gain the rippling slab and climb straight up to a small stance. 2. 50m. Climb to the scrubby ledge of the previous climb. 3. 50m. Scramble up to the large block. Either climb the slab on the back or take the face route direct. Descent as for previous climb.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="75m" name="Men Behaving Badly" id="9" fa="I.Snape, T.McKenny, Sep 2001.">Takes a line up the arête to the right of Shenanigans. 1. 45m. Hop up the short, pink rock step and climb through the rock folds and up the slab and walls on the right of the buttress. Belay on small ledge about 5 m below and to the right of an obvious larger vegetated ledge. 2. 30m. Up, trending rightwards, on good rock to a steeply sloping vegetated ledge, belay where you can. Descent by abseil from small tree on right.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="10">Notley Gorge</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="11">To the right (as you face the mountain) of the Moonlight Buttress is a second deep gully, the Notley Gorge, marked by a steep yellow wall. Walk up the Sentinels track and bear steeply up hill after you pass the first large boulder in the trees on the left. Climb up the vegetated slabs and scramble up, keeping to the left, to the start of the gully. Traverse in at the foot of the cliffs and then through the bush until the startlingly steep wall rears up in front of you. The climbing here is steep and the rock quality overall is surprisingly good. Water is available from a small stream in the Gorge except in very dry conditions.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="Drop of the Hard Stuff" id="12" fa="I.Snape, C.Cole, Feb 2000.">Start at the continuous wall on the left, just after you pass by the initial overhangs and just before you enter into the gorge proper. Climb up the downward sloping ledges, trending right and then straight up.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="90m" name="Abrogation" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="T.Meldrum, A.Adams, T.McKenny, Feb 1997.">The climb starts at the left hand end (down hill) of the wall at the foot of a indistinct vertical weakness. 1. 40m. Climb up the weakness on good rock aiming for the skyline arête. Much steeper than it looks! Belay on the arête below the overhang. 2. 50m. Turn the overhang on great big holds. Shades of Arapiles. Descend by traversing across left (east) and down the rib back towards the walking track and then abseil down a short rock wall.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="45m" name="Last of the Summer Wine" id="14" fa="T.McKenny, T.Meldrum, Dec 2000.">An exposed climb on superb rock following a traversing line close to the top of the main orange face. Climb up the right hand side of the gorge until above a large chock stone, with a small "cave" belay site. 1. 30m. Traverse out left, gradually ascending until a deeper vertical groove in hard, glassy, quartzite is reached. Climb this for 3m and then traverse left with difficulty to an airy stance. 2. 15m. Climb the crack above the belay to gain the ridge.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Message in a Bottle" id="15" fa="D.Gardner, T.Meldrum, T.McKenny, Feb 2001.">Takes the upper of the two very distinct "tram lines " that traverse the upper part of the main face, crossing an obvious niche half way across. Start in the Gully. 1. 20m. Traverse easily to the niche. 2. 30m. A continuing rising traverse crossing a steep wall until a direct climb can be made up a very steep groove to join the main ridge (The obvious continuation traverse line to the arête hasn't been climbed yet).</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="60m" name="A Vintage Drop" id="16" fa="T.McKenny, T.Meldrum, D.Gardner, Feb 2001.">An exposed traversing line on good rock. Takes the lower of the two tramlines, finishing up the arête, as for Abrogation. 1. 40m. Traverse across the steep wall to the arête and a very exposed stance. 2. 20m. Climb up through the roofs to finish up the slabs above.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="48m" name="Summer Diversion" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="I.Snape, C.Cole, Feb 2001.">Start as for Message in a Bottle. Climb straight up, trending right across the pinkish face of hard quartzite, and then traverse left for 3m, the crux of Last of the Summer Wine, (so avoiding the obvious harder direct finish). From the ledge, monkey back out rightwards and upwards under some roofs until it is possible to go straight up and belay at a left facing wall. Consistently good and interesting climbing all the way.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="90m" name="Windy Ridge" id="18" fa="T.Meldrum, T.McKenny, Dec 2000.">The slabs on the right hand side of the Gorge can be climbed just about anywhere at about Grade 11, easy but fun climbing.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="90m" name="RH Variant" number="" stars="" id="19" fa="C.Cole, I.Snape, Feb 2001.">Start on the RHS of the slabs just to the right of the roofs. 1. 45m. Well protected, brilliant climbing up the right hand edge. Consistent grade throughout with a thought-provoking crux. 2. 45m. Up more easily as for Windy Ridge. 
Descend by abseiling down a shallow gully to the right.</climb><climb>
</guide>



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