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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header autonumber="true" camping="" id="1" walk="8 - 20 min flat walk" sun="All day sun" rock="Flakey vertical dolerite, up to 50m high" name="Kempton Quoin" intro="This is one of the most impressive of the accessible dolerite cliffs in southern Tasmania. People have dabbled occasionally over the years but even now the cliff is best described as &quot;undeveloped&quot;. Because of this, the Guide is very short compared to the amount of rock there. It has a reputation for chossiness as the rock is hard, brittle, flakey, dolerite, but with cleaning some great routes emerge. There is plenty of potential for new sport and trad routes, the difficulty is often getting to the top of a route in order to clean it." history="" acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets." access="Both the climbing and the described parking / walking access are on private land and this access relies  on good will of the land owners. Please read and follow the guidance below, to try to maintain this goodwill.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;• Do not drive past the bottom (red) gate. Even if it is open.&lt;br/&gt;• Park in such a way that you are not blocking the maintenance vehicles that from time to time do need access through the locked gate.&lt;br/&gt;• Walk along the established road and 4wd track to the crag.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The land in the area is a former logging coupe, that now has conservation covenants. A number of the houses in the area are also only lived in part time. There have been a number of incidents of illegal shooting / logging / trapping / motorbike riding / theft in the area. Unfamiliar vehicles can make locals uncomfortable. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;• Leave a note on the dash of your vehicle, with a name, phone number and the text “climbing” (for example, “Bob – Climbing – 0412345678”). If you forget pen and paper, leave something else that makes it obvious you are climbing (a quickdraw?).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;More generally:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;• Do not camp or stay overnight;&lt;br/&gt;• Drive at an appropriate speed along the dirt access roads. There may be children, stock, or wildlife on the road.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;It&apos;s about an hour&apos;s drive from Hobart. Drive to Colebrook (via Richmond and Campania). At Colebrook turn left (westwards) onto Yarlington Road, cross the rail line and continue up the dirt road. Head straight up the road, and at 9.5km from Colebrook there is a left turn with a red boom gate (don&apos;t get sucked into taking the turn about 1km before it, where there is a green building in the trees). Park here. Walk along the gated trail for about ten minutes until a locked yellow gate is reached, then continue along the road about another 500m to power pole no. 99 and take the cairned 4wd track on the left. Follow the track for a bit, then follow cairns up to the cliff at Vagabond Buttress. From the red gate it’s about 20 minutes walk to the main crag.&lt;br/&gt;"/>
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  <text class="heading3" id="65">The Route Bloc</text>
  <text class="text" id="66">About 50 past the Yellow Gate locate a small cairn on the left side of the road. Follow the rough track up to the boulder. There is potential for 2 more easier routes, one on each end of the boulder.&lt;br/&gt;Not really certain as to how hard any of them are, so feel free to comment and update. All routes are bolted with the intention of the first bolts being stick-clipped.</text>
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      <climb>81</climb>
      <climb>82</climb>
      <climb>83</climb>
      <climb>84</climb>
      <climb>85</climb>
      <climb>86</climb>
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  <climb id="81" name="Fizzle Pop" stars="" extra="Þ" number="1." length="7m" grade="23-25?" fa="">The left hand route. Start on the juggy break and head left before shooting up the face by a cruxy maneuver. Still a project probably 23-25ish, all are welcome to it.</climb>
  <climb id="82" name="A Puff and a Push" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="2." length="8m" grade="22" fa="James Trainer. Feb 2015">Start as for Fizzle Pop but veer right and up towards the obvious left leaning groove. Finish on same anchor as FP.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="83" name="An Extended Puff and a Push" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="3." length="11m" grade="24" fa="James Trainer, Feb 2015">Start as for either A Puff and a Push or Bossy Boiler and head straight up the black streak to then anchor. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="Bossy Boiler" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="4." length="13m" grade="25/26" fa="James Trainer, Feb 2015">Surprisingly technical and pumpy climbing up the middle of the boulder.</climb>
  <climb id="85" name="Pumping Pistons" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="5." length="8m" grade="27" fa="James Trainer, Feb 2015">Start matched on the obvious rail and slap your way up the arête then through the bulge. V6/7 bouldering on a rope. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="86" name="Bubbling Boilers" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="6." length="8m" grade="25/26" fa="James Trainer, Feb 2015">Start on the right hand juggy rail and punch up through the steep bulge to finish on the same anchor as PP.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="67">The Red Pillar</text>
  <text class="text" id="68">Directly opposite where the main track heads up to the main cliff (between power poles 98 &amp; 99), you can see some chunks of rock below the road. The Red Pillar is the lower side of the largest.</text>
  <climb id="69" name="Project" stars="" extra="Þ" number="7." length="10m" grade="23" fa="">Steep line up the red pillar.</climb>
  <climb id="70" name="Live Long And Prosper" stars="" extra="Þ" number="8." length="10m" grade="17" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, 2014.">The right hand arete of the pillar. Careful of a large flake that still needs dispatching as the route heads left near the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="29">Left Hand Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="30">There are huge amounts of undeveloped rock along the left side of the cliff line, as you can see from the topo. 32 Penguins is on one of the left most pieces of decent rock.</text>
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  <climb id="2" name="32 Penguins" stars="" extra="" number="9." length="15m" grade="12" fa="Matt Perchard, 1992.">Way left of Seventh Day etc (like about 200m) Matt has bolted a wall that forms a low point of the cliff (geographically speaking!). Two routes go up this wall although the right variant (grade 21/22) is pretty contrived. The left version is quite pleasant.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="61">Blood Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="62">Blood Buttress is the next one left of Tourette's Pillar, before the cliff heads uphill again. The fist two routes listed are on the 25m high sub-buttress on the left hand side.</text>
  <climb id="3" name="No Tomorrow" extra="" number="10." length="25m" grade="17" fa="Matt Perchard, Jun 1999.">Start about 5m left of When Spiders Travel and directly below the cleanest piece of face (atop the mounds of rubble from the cleaning job!). Climb up the broken face to the nice face near the top. Straight up this face (crux), with protection in the corner to the left if need be.</climb>
  <climb id="4" name="When Spiders Travel" stars="" extra="" number="11." length="25m" grade="16" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Start about 30m left of Tourette's Pillar, below a large gum tree sitting on a large ledge halfway up the cliff. Climb the crack system where the sub-buttress joins the main one. The first move up the corner off the ground is problematic, from where a clean crack leads over a few bulges to the ledge and rap off the tree.</climb>
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  <text class="text" id="97">The next routes are on the large main face of the buttress.</text>
  <climb id="94" name="Anemia" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="12." length="20m" grade="23" fa="Owen Gervasoni &amp; Roger Parkyn, 2015">The white streaked wall left of Blood offers a technical and pumpy pitch. Worthwhile.</climb>
  <climb id="95" name="Blood" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="13." length="25m" grade="21" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn, Sep 2015.">Climb right of the first two U's. At the third U traverse left (crux) with #3 roughly at chest height: looks improbable at first but invisible side-pulls appear when needed.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="56">Tourette's Pillar</text>
  <text class="text" id="57">This little 15m pillar to the R of Blood Buttress, and about 50m left of Smashed Wall is dwarfed by the two huge buttresses on either side and above it.</text>
  <climb id="58" name="Tourette&apos;s Syndrome" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="14." length="15m" grade="21" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Feb 2015.">Up the front of the pillar with 6 FH. Rap off the shared rap station on the ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Coprolalia" stars="*" extra="↓    " number="15." length="15m" grade="17" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Feb 2015.">The crack where the pillar joins the main buttress. Not too bad for this kind of thing. DBB on the ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="75">Moonshine Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="76">&lt;br/&gt;About 40m right of the Tourette's Pillar and just to the left of the deep chimney/gully that defines the LH end of Smashed Wall is a steep yellow buttress, capped by a projecting old gum. The face is split by a weakness which divides high up into two cracks. &lt;br/&gt;</text>
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  <climb id="88" name="Methanol" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="16." length="16m" grade="25" fa="O Gervasoni, R Parkyn August 2015.">Devious and sustained face climbing on the upper wall left of CR. Climb bolted access pitch to ledge up and left of first belay on CR to gain start. Six bolts lead to the CR rap station. Best to climb right of bolt 2, then move left at bolt 3.</climb>
  <climb id="77" name="Copperhead Road " stars="**" extra="↓    " number="17." length="42m" grade="22" fa="O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny, May 2015.">Excellent climbing on good rock – take plenty of small gear for this gem!&lt;br/&gt;1. 14m 12 Climb the initial wall to the left of the massive flake to a DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 28m 22 Step right and follow the main corner to the rooflet, then bridge and technique your way with difficulty up the steepening narrow gut to a rest. Superb crack climbing finishing up the LH crack to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="79" name="#The Road Less Taken" stars="" extra="" number="18." length="25m" grade="22?" fa="Brodie and Woolford, 2005?">The RH fork of Copperhead Road.</climb>
  <climb id="89" name="Moonshine" stars="*" extra="" number="19." length="25m" grade="22" fa="O Gervasoni, J Ridder, R Parkyn August 2015.">The arête right of CR. From first belay on CR, traverse right to bolt, then up to roof at base of the arête. Turn roof (with an assist from the adjacent buttress), then onwards to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="46">Smashed Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="47">Up and left again from Wedge Buttress is Smashed Wall, which at the right hand end has the smashed remains of quite a large tree which fell from the top of the cliff in 2014.</text>
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  <climb id="125" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="20." name="The Renaissance" length="34m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Nov 2016.">This route takes the right hand of two corners, down at the lowest level of the wall.&lt;br/&gt;1. 18m 22. Up the corner and face above, to a DBB. Good climbing.&lt;br/&gt;2. 16m 16. A bit of a ramble to the top of the wall and a DBB. You can't quite lower off to the ground from here with a 60m rope, but you can get to the ledge up right.</climb>
  <text id="127" class="text">There is a variant to The Renaissance starting off the ledge to the L of Another One Bites the Dust, and heading diagonally L to meet the Renaissance after the corner. This gives a 30m pitch of about 17, but the climbing is a bit average as it's quite ledgey and stop-start</text>
  <climb id="90" name="Another One Bites the Dust" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="21." length="20m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2015.">Nice face climbing 10m L of Smash the Beetles. After the ledge at half height the route trends right to avoid the crazy bulge.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="Smash the Beetles" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="22." length="22m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2014.">The corner on the R end of the wall. Mostly pretty cruisey, except where you are forced to step into the corner, which is harder lower down. From the the anchor you can walk to the top of the adjacent buttresses.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="49">Wedge Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="50">From Right Stuff Buttress, the next chunk of rock to the left is Wedge Buttress, which is about 45m high.</text>
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  <climb id="51" name="Cardio" stars="**" extra="13Þ" number="23." length="30m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut May 2015">The line up the pillar on the left hand end of Wedge Buttress. Enjoyable face climbing with a pumpy finish. Entertaining face climbing through the first roof to the jugs, rest and easier middle slab. Pump though the second roof with limited feet. From the last bolt you can scuttle right for a rest, or continue up the shallow crack. There is an optional #2 camalot at the very top before you pull onto the ledge. Clip the anchors and think about the next project.</climb>
  <climb id="121" stars="*" extra="" number="24." name="Please Explain" length="32m" grade="17" fa="Y. Foong, M. Lopez Jul 2016">Not bad for this sort of thing, will get better with more cleaning. The chimney to the right of Cardio. Bring your no 4s and 5s!</climb>
  <climb id="52" name="Project" stars="" extra="9Þ" number="25." length="18m" grade="" fa="">Project - face starting off the right side of the ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="54" name="Damage" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="26." length="28m" grade="18" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphies, Nov 2014.">The line of FHs up the face on the LHS of the foot of the buttress. Nice continuous climbing on good holds, some which sound hollow but are generally OK. You can lower off safely on a 50m rope so long as the belayer is under the climb.</climb>
  <climb id="108" name="Whoosh" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="27." length="28m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Feb. 2016.">A good companion route to Damage with similar climbing, just a touch harder. Start in between Damage and Gold Quoin at a thin corner crack, to the same anchor as Damage, with one shared clip.</climb>
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  <climb id="87" name="Gold Quoin" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="28." length="12m" grade="20" fa="Roger Parkyn, James Ridder, Owen Gervasoni, Aug 2015">Follows the U's up the shallow groove. Steep and sustained but there's always holds of some sort. Double U belay or lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="55" name="The Thin Edge of the Wedge" stars="*" extra="" number="29." length="27m" grade="20" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Dec. 2014.">The sinuous crack starting at the lowest point of the buttress. A steep start up the crack eases to reasonably protected face climbing, leading to a DBB. There could probably be a second pitch.</climb>
  <climb id="123" stars="" extra="" number="30." name="Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Project - steep groove up to the R of TTEotW</climb>
  <climb id="119" stars="" extra="" number="31." name="¥oung Mon€¥" length="47m" grade="19" fa="M. Lopez, YC Foong June 2016">Raw as botulism. Starts at the wide looking crack about 7 metres right of TTEOTW, then goes straight up via flakey face to obvious tree, then to top. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 15. Start up wide crack to obvious ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 22m 19. This is where you tell mama you love her and weasel your way up the face. Negotiate small rooflet, and then count your blessings on semi-permanent holds to second rooflet. The first ascentionists chickened out and bailed leftwards at this point, however the direct finish over the rooflet awaits a glorious ascent. Set up anchor on trees. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m 12. To the top via crack, can be done as part of 2nd pitch. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="128" stars="" extra="" number="32." name="The Weasel" length="50m" grade="17" fa="T. Kirkby, M. Lopez July 2017">This one takes the obvious right trending off width and chimney system to the top of the buttress via a few terraces. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 16 Head up the crack system till one reaches the second terrace. Fair bit of the loose stuff loitering around here. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 17 Contort and squirm through the off width roof then keep on truck'n across the terrace and up the dirty chimney. You'll find yourself at the top amongst many dense Hakeas. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="41">Right Stuff Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="42">From Prelude head left and up the hill towards Wedge Buttress. Looking up the hill you will find a narrow buttress with an obvious fist crack - which is The Right Stuff.</text>
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  <climb id="96" name="Margin Call" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="33." length="20m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, Sep 2015.">It all started with a lot of leverage. Climb the gently overhanging shallow corner, mostly on big positive holds. Provides some strange and funky moves. Good rock.</climb>
  <climb id="124" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="34." name="The Left Stuff" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2016.">The beautiful arete between Margin Call and The Right Stuff. Technical with a steep finish.</climb>
  <climb id="5" name="The Right Stuff" stars="**" extra="" number="35." length="20m" grade="18" fa="Rolan Eberhard, Aug 1995.">Take the prominent fist crack in the buttress. Jam the crack, branching left onto the face at the very top (#0.75 Camalot is handy here). The middle section is offwidth but can be climbed quite pleasantly with conventional climbing techniques. A few #4 and a couple of #5 Camalots will make it a more relaxed lead. Good fun in an old-school sort of way. Double-U rap from at the ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="111">Howling Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="112">Howling Buttress is the large buttress that you pass as you head you head up the hill from Smoking Gun area to Wedge Buttress, to the right of The Right Stuff. There is one route currently at the lower level by the track - Prelude. The others are approached from Wedge.</text>
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  <climb id="113" name="Tabula Rasa" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="36." length="10m" grade="24" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn 21/5/2016">Tackles the surprisingly steep black slab at the base of the overhanging south-eastern face of Howling buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="John Henry" stars="**" extra="18Þ" number="37." length="32m" grade="26" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Roger Parkyn 21/5/2016">This excellent continuation of Tabula Rasa weaves its way up the overhanging face with some of the best rock at the crag. From the DBB on Tabula Rasa, continue up the right arete of the buttress for a few moves, before traversing left into and then up a shallow white corner system. A lack of holds forces a move further left onto and around the blunt overhanging prow (crux). Punch back right through the rooflet above before finishing up the centre of the face. A 60m rope is sufficient.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="115">Head down and R from Tabula Rasa / John Henry to the ledge below Howling Gale. There is a bolt on the ledge to avoid falling off it.</text>
  <climb id="116" name="Howling Gale" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="38." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Apr 2016.">Follows the seam up the middle of the buttress to a DBB on the ledge. Needs a bit more brushing and traffic at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="120" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="39." name="Cool Breeze" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, June 2016.">From the ledge head right onto the arete. Excellent climbing and position. Slightly flakey in the second half, but hey, it's Kempton.</climb>
  <climb id="72" name="Prelude" stars="" extra="Þ" number="40." length="15m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, April 2015">On the left side of the foot of the buttress, just to the right of a finger crack. You walk past it on the main track. Easy angled climbing steepens at a bulge to a DBB at the right hand edge of the Howling ledge. You can keep going into Cool Breeze for a 35m pitch, but I don't know whether you can lower off ok.</climb>
  <image id="39" src="Kempton RHS.jpeg" height="1018" legendTitle="Kempton Quoin RHS" legend="true" legendx="11" legendy="7">
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      <rect style="white_outline" id="74658" height="742" width="103" text="Seventh Day Area" y="220" x="491"/>
      <rect style="white_outline" id="31783" height="570" width="108" text="Smoking Gun Area" y="294" x="196"/>
      <rect style="white_outline" id="83019" height="530" width="174" text="Vagabond Buttress" y="431" x="611"/>
      <rect style="white_outline" id="5796" height="638" width="159" text="Surprise Buttress" y="325" x="866"/>
      <rect style="white_outline" id="20447" height="376" width="131" text="Princess Nina Buttress" y="587" x="1034"/>
      <rect style="white_outline" id="26266" height="743" width="165" text="Emancipate Buttress" y="219" x="313"/>
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  <text class="heading3" id="32">Smoking Gun Area</text>
  <image id="45" src="SmokingGun.jpg" height="669" width="500" legendTitle="Smoking Gun Area" legend="true">
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  <climb id="6" name="Outlaw" stars="*" extra="" number="41." length="25m" grade="17">The right facing corner 10m left of Renegade. A nice hand crack. Rap off the chain or continue up the last few metres to the bushy, slopey "ledge".</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="The Smoking Gun" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="42." length="25m" grade="22" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jun 1993.">A quality route. Start up the dihedral. Go through the overhang (crux) then continue up the wall above to the rap chain. One fixed hanger, otherwise U's (the carrots were replaced 2016).</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Renegade" stars="" extra="" number="43." length="30m" grade="16">About 10m left of, and 10m up from, Emancipation. Climb the left facing corner system.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="98">Emancipate Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="99">Emancipate Buttress is the 55m high buttress to the left of Seventh Day, with a good ledge at 25m.</text>
  <image id="101" src="emancipate.JPG" height="1333" legendTitle="Emancipate Buttress" legend="true" legendx="16" legendy="12">
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  <climb id="100" name="Conventional Wisdom" stars="*" extra="10Þ" number="44." length="25m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2015.">Conventional Wisdom is that Kempton is a pile of choss. This route which climbs the pillar left of Emancipate Yourself doesn't disappoint - it's got it fair share of hollow flakes and shards. But it is a fun climb nonetheless. At the 7th bolt you can either scuttle right, or go direct at about grade 22.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Emancipate Yourself From Mental Slavery" stars="**" extra="" number="45." length="50m" grade="20" fa=" J.Fantini (pitch one), G.Narkowicz, B.McMahon (pitches two and three).">Start 10m left of Seventh Day. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 20. Climb the crack, to a ledge. Sustained. There is a single bolt at the ledge - head left or right to the route on either side for a DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 17. From the RH end of the ledge head right and up a thin black corner to a small ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. Join Seventh Day below the chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="92" name="Servitude" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="46." length="25m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2015">Start up the corner to the R of Emancipate Yourself. At the 5th bolt, head R into the next corner. Tricky moves up this to a DBB on the ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="33">Seventh Day Area</text>
  <image id="40" src="seventhDay.jpg" height="856" legendTitle="Seventh Day Area" legend="true" legendx="464" legendy="13">
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    <legend>
      <climb>10</climb>
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      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>13</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="10" name="Seventh Day" stars="***" extra="" number="47." length="50m" grade="17" fa="">1. 15m 17. Climb the hand sized crack to the large ledge (equipped with a rap chain). &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 17. Another excellent pitch. Take extra helpings of medium to large sized friends. Chain.&lt;br/&gt;3. Continues bravely upwards via a chimney to the top of the cliff, firstly to the big slopey ledge, and then up a V chimney to the very top, where there is a DBB. From the big slopey ledge you can get down via rap anchors above Emancipate Yourself buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Steel Prophylactic" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="48." length="15m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, 1992. Rebolted 2015.">Five U bolts up the arête lead to the large ledge shared with the routes on either side. The crux is near the base.</climb>
  <climb id="12" name="Star" stars="**" extra="" number="49." length="15m" grade="19">Lovely stemming up a superb dihedral. Adequately protected.</climb>
  <climb id="14" name="Mixed Emotions Direct Start" stars="" extra="" number="50." length="" grade="26" fa="Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Feb 1995">The thin direct line to the above. Either clip first BR from gully or use natural pro. Climb thin crack/face/arete and then continue up the original route.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Mixed Emotions" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="51." length="15m" grade="24" fa="Pitch 1: Stefan Eberhard, Jun 94. Pitch 2: Robyn Cleland, Nov 1995.">1. 23. Start from the gully on the right and traverse left onto the face at the first bolt. Follow the bolts to belay as for Steel Prophylactic. &lt;br/&gt;2. 24. Follow the bolts to the chain at the top of Seventh Day. The climbing is hardest at the bottom; gradually easing as one ascends. Some bolts on this pitch are corroding - May 2015.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="34">Vagabond Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="37">Vagabond Buttress is the next chunk of rock right of the Seventh Day area, until the cliff turns a corner. Its the first bit of rock you get to following the track.</text>
  <climb id="105" name="Project" stars="" extra="" number="52." length="" grade="" fa="">Project - Up the left side of the buttress</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="The Battle" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="53." length="12m" grade="21" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Sep 2014.">4m left of Vagabond is a corner system. Climb up to a rest on the pedestal, then step R and climb the face. A nice little route that needs extending to the top of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Vagabond" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="54." length="25m" grade="22" fa="Roland Eberhard, Sep 1995.">Climb the overhanging face (bolts with hangers) to a ledge at half height. Exquisite. Continue up the dihedral above, first on bolts then with some natural gear (#0.75 and #1 Camalot). Finish at rap anchor above Toxic Avenger. The bolts on this climb are showing some signs of rust, so be cautious and give them a pull test before clipping.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Toxic Avenger" stars="*" extra="" number="55." length="25m" grade="20" fa="Sam Edwards, Aug 1995.">Steep climbing on good holds (the poxy ones are now littered around the base of the cliff!). Three bolts protect the middle section. Step right to the pedestal after the third bolt then continue straight up to the hand crack. The route took a bit of quarrying but the result is worthwhile.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Crying Wolfs" stars="" extra="" number="56." length="35m" grade="20" fa="Volker Jurisch, Jan 1993.">Start near a big tree which is 30m right of Seventh Day. Climb the twin cracks left of this tree until the left crack ends then continue up the right crack. An overhang (crux) leads to a big ledge. Take the thin crack on the right straight up to a tree then finish up left to another tree (belay).</climb>
  <climb id="107" name="The West Wind" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="57." length="18m" grade="21" fa="Jon Nermut, Feb 2016.">The face just to the right of Crying Wolfs. Thin moves down low, then good face climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="122" stars="" extra="" number="58." name="Dallas City Sniper" length="18m" grade="17" fa="M. Lopez &amp; Y. Foong, July 2016">The crack of varying sizes 2m R of TWW. Start in da v groove and up to the DBB. Grubby, wet and a lil crumbly.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Silly Old Buggers" stars="" extra="" number="59." length="20m" grade="12" fa="Probably done by Dave Humphries and John Burgess way back in the day, if not before.">The right facing corner to the left of Sugar Tits. Would be a good easier route if it weren't for the blocks up higher. Lower off the Sugar Tits anchor.</climb>
  <climb id="104" name="Sugar Tits" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="60." length="20m" grade="19" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Dec 2015.">About 8m right of Crying Wolfs is a bolted face. A bit harder than it looks.</climb>
  <climb id="106" name="Footy Frank Snapchat" stars="*" extra="4Þ  " number="61." length="20m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Jan 2016">The arete 2m right of Sugar Tits. Gets you in less trouble than social media. The third clip is less exciting if you pre-clip the draw. Finish up Sugar Tits.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">Surprise Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="38">Next right of Vagabond Buttress is a huge, steep, orange buttress with noa routescurrent onproject it currently(Stefan Eberhard, Patrick Eberhard). Further R again is Surprise Buttress, which extends as far as the gully which heads up to Princess Nina.</text>
  <climb id="18" name="Dancing Caver" stars="" extra="" number="62." length="60m" grade="18" fa="R.Holzer, V.Jurisch, D.Morgan.">Start 5m left of Surprise in a little corner. &lt;br/&gt;1. 18. Up corners and cracks until standing on a pedestal at about 15m. Traverse right 3m and up a short crack and onto the huge ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. Climb up the block then continue to follow the crack behind the pillar. Three meters from the top of the pillar traverse right around the arête to avoid the chimney.</climb>
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  <climb id="19" name="Surprise" stars="" extra="" number="63." length="15m" grade="19" fa="V.Jurisch, D.Morgan, Jan 1993.">Start near a big tree 50m right of Crying Wolfs. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 19. Climb the crack straight over the bulge (crux). Continue up to a small tree.&lt;br/&gt;2. 18. From the tree move up the hand-crack. Climb this for 10m to a ledge then go left and up onto the top of the large block. &lt;br/&gt;3. 19. Traverse out right to the bottom of a corner. Climb this corner until it is possible to finish up Dancing Caver.</climb>
  <climb id="109" name="Hoparoo" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="64." length="15m" grade="16" fa="Jon Nermut, Stu Scott, Dave Humphries, Mar 2016.">The face in between Surprise and Wild Flowers provides lovely climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="Wild Flowers" stars="*" extra="" number="65." length="15m" grade="13" fa="Volker Jurisch, Jan 1993.">Bridging and jamming lead to the same ledge and tree as Surprise and Hoparoo. Rap off the Hoparoo anchors.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="36">Princess Nina Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="21">The next climbs are about 50m to the right and 20m up a gully (some scrambling).</text>
  <climb id="22" name="Restless Prince" stars="" extra="" number="66." length="25m" grade="22" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">This is the thin line 1.5m left of Princess Nina. Climb on initially very thin gear then traverse out left to the arête at about 5m. Continue up the arête and associated crack just to the right until the overlap is reached. Traverse back right and finish up the crack-line.</climb>
  <climb id="23" name="Princess Nina" extra="" number="67." length="25m" grade="22" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">The corner 50m right of Wild Flowers. Climb the initial thin face moves to enter the delicate corner. Up this (crux) to the ledge then finish up the hand-crack and corner above. A rap station (static rope) exists at the top of this climb.</climb>
  <climb id="24" name="Sunset Arete" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="68." length="25m" grade="20" fa="Roger Parkyn, Sep 1995.">The bolted arête. Double-U lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="King Dean" extra="" number="69." length="25m" grade="18" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">The crack-line 2m right of Princess Nina. Initial technical moves lead to a hand crack, then delicate face moves which in turn lead to the roof. Go straight through the roof to join and finish as for Kaiserdom.</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Kaiserdom" stars=" * " extra="" number="70." length="25m" grade="20" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Start 4m right of Princess Nina, traversing right to some ledges from the big block. Follow the crack then face moves to the roof. Traverse left, then climb the roof on big jugs and then continue straight up to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="KFC" extra="" number="71." length="25m" grade="17" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Climb as for Kaiserdom to the roof then traverse right (instead of left to join Kaiserdom). Traverse back left after the roof to continue up the line.</climb>
</guide>