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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500" version="2">
  <header access="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side." acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets. " history="" intro="The popular walk up on the north side of The Gorge hosts a few good climbs for those hot sunny days that abound in Launceston. These climbs are described left to right due to the tyrannical nature of the former chief editor of Craglets, i.e from the restaurant downhill to the bridge even though most of you will be walking the other way. So if you start at the end of these descriptions and read back to here it will make more sense. The distances are measured in leisurely steps. If you are taller or shorter or in a hurry then adjust accordingly." name="Cataract Gorge - Shady Side" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses, with a mixture of trad and bolted climbs" sun="Not much sun" walk="5-10 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="2">The Trap Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">These first two climbs are above the track about 160 steps from the sign that says “Cataract Walk”. Just step off the fence and onto the climb. DBB on top.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Nymphogranuloma" stars=" * " id="4" fa="Narkowicz, 1982." number="1.">The jamb crack 2m to the left of The Trap with a block in the crack at the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Trap" number="2." stars="*" id="5" fa="Ng, 1991.">Step off the rails and on to the black face with 4 FH, 70 steps on from the Prince of Darkness abseil point.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="The Onanist" number="3." stars="" id="6">The offwidth on the right of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="7">The shonky looking bolts right of this climb are not a climb, they have been placed by the council to monitor rock movement. They should NOT be clipped for climbing purposes.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="8">Prince of Darkness Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="9">70 steps downstream from The Trap or 15 steps upstream of the stairs to the lookout is a light pole. Abseil down the sloping ledge beneath this to the platform 15m below</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="King of Pain" stars=" ** " id="10" fa="Fox, Tierney, DeCesare, 2001." number="4.">The upstream most of this trilogy of climbs. Climb the features to a hand crack at mid-height then continue on up the arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Prince of Darkness" stars=" ** " id="11" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz 1982." number="5.">The climb ascends the blocky crack in the middle of the buttress to a small roof then up a thin crack to the sloping ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="98" stars="*" extra="" number="6." name="Cartoon Laws Of Physics " length="15m" grade="17/18" fa="CW">Up blocky crack as for POD to small roof, traverse left just under roof/bulge to gain next ascendable sectoon, finish at fence/walkway.&lt;br/&gt;FA solo,1994.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Queen of Salsa" stars=" *** " id="12" fa="Fox, Luna, DeCesare, 2001" number="67.">Start 2m right of POD and head up the ramp to the off-width which can be climbed with-out having to resort to any off-width techniques and then up the top face.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="13">Disgorge Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">From the bottom of the stairs leading up to the look-out you can look downstream and up the hill to see a tall buttress with 2 cracks on it. Scramble up the steep hillside to get to it.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Dammit" number="78." stars="**" id="15" fa="Chris Shepherd, 1985">Thin face climbing around the left-hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Disgorge" id="16" fa="Lamb, Narkowicz, 1982" number="89.">The long crack on the right of the main face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="The One That Got Away" number="910." stars="" id="17" fa="McMahon, Smart 1982.">A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress downhill from the main Disgorge cliff, opening up at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="18">Anopheles Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="19">140 steps from the stairs to the lookout are 2 huge pines on the uphill side of the footpath. Coming from Double Dozen Cliff it is also about 140 steps. The next climb is 10m behind pines.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Cypress Crack" number="1011." stars="" id="20" fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1980.">Jam crack on left of face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Anopheles" id="21" fa="Fox, Tierney, 1996." number="1112.">2 eye-bolts to finger crack and pro. Stick clip the first eye-bolt. Looks like it could do with another dose of agent orange. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="22">Up above this climb is a small buttress with 2 climbs on it. Access via Anopheles or scrambling up on the right.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="Ned" id="23" fa="Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001." number="1213.">The hand crack on the left hand side. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Dirichnum Rectum" id="24" fa="DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001." number="1314.">The thin crack opening towards the top on the blunt arête 3m right of Ned. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="25">Fat Bottom Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="26">50 paces down from the lookout the tourist track passes underneath a gently overhanging buttress with a handcrack splitting the lower teir and an offwidth the upper tier.</text>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="The Secret Read" number="1415." stars="" id="27" fa="I.Ferrier M Johnston Nov 2009.">Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="The Best Thing Since Fat Bottom Girls" number="1516." stars="**" id="28" fa="M Johnston, I Ferrier 2009.">The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A hop to get established on the face above the undercut, followed by nice climbing up the arete. Access is via the chimmney with one FH to protect it. A good route after the dirty wide crack. DBB at top.</climb>
  <climb id="96" name="Sean" length="18m" grade="30" extra=" " fa="Polinski, 2011" stars="***" number="1617.">The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs. One of the better hard lines in the Gorge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="29">Listen, Silent Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="30">Two light posts upstream from the double dozen cliff are a set of steps leading to an alcove with two blocks in it enscibed "listen, silent".</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Sounding Silence" number="1718." stars="**" id="31" fa="A.Geeves, S.Young Nov 2009">The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="29" length="15m" name="Freeloader" number="1819." stars="**" id="32" fa="M. Johnston 2009.">The blunt arete with 2 FH right of the squeeze chimney - has sidepulls, gastons, crimps, dynos and slopers all in 10m. Guaranteed to have you feeling like a sport climber in 3 dogging sessions or less. Take a couple of larger C3's for the crack at the end of the hard climbing and a 0.75 camalot for just before the top. There is an alternative start that utilizes the large hold on the left arete and traverses in at the second bolt which goes at 27.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="33">Double Dozen Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="34">When you reach a large landing with a big cement rectange in its centre then you’ve found the Double Dozen buttress. On the other side of the river is Gabriel Buttress. When the tide is out you can cross over from here. These are some of the best climbs on this side of the gorge</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="11m" name="Afternoon Delights" stars=" * " id="35" fa="Smith, Cover, 1980." number="1920.">About 25 steps upstream from the main Double Dozen Buttress is a hand crack opening up to off hands at the top. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="11m" name="Garbo" id="36" fa="McMahon, Ian Green, 1973." number="2021.">The left hand crack and corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="11m" name="Double Dozen" stars=" *** " id="37" fa="Moorehead, 1981." number="2122.">Boulder problem start to the steep crack then exit out right of the block at the top. Add a grade for the direct finish. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="11m" name="No Right Turn" stars=" ** " id="38" fa="Parsons, 1981." number="2223.">Up the thin double cracks on the right above the “booga” graffiti. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="It’s in the Veins" number="2324." stars="**" id="39" fa="Learmont, 1997.">The bolted face 5m right of No Right Turn. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Future World" number="2425." stars="" id="40" fa="DBB Selby, 1998.">The line of bolts up the arete right of It’s in the Veins.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Pipedreams" number="2526." stars="*" id="41" fa="Fox, Jones, 2001.">Walk up the right side of Double Dozen Buttress and climb up the fixed rope to the old pipes. Follow these pipes to your right. All up it’s 30m from Future World. Up pillar past 3 FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="42">Road to Lost City Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="43">Another 95 steps upstream from the hut with the funny looking concrete tree trunks is a slab that leads up to a 12m high buttress with several climbs on it, known as Mark Moorhead Buttress. It is also 95 steps downstream from the Double Dozen Buttress The first climbs are on the face looking upstream.</text>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="29" length="9m" name="Suspended Animation" number="2627." stars="" id="44" fa="Polinski, 2011">The leftmost route on the buttress up a blunt arête past 3 bolts. The crux (a balancy double-clutch move) may feel easy if done perfectly and impossible if not - potential ingredients for frustration. Note: the current anchors are far up and right from the top of the route making cleaning interesting.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="9m" name="Moreheads Corner" id="45" fa="Morehead, Dignan 1982." number="2728.">Visible from the walk-way it is the left hand crack on the upstream face 4m left of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB way over the back.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="28" length="12m" name="The Gay Bar?" number="2829." stars="**" id="46" fa="Unknown 2008.">The arete with 5 fixed hangers 2m right of the very thin twin cracks (which are waiting a first ascent). DBB at top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Strictly Ballroom" number="2930." stars="*" id="47">The bolted wide crack and arete near the right hand end of the buttress. Can be done with varying degrees of directness; climbs particularly well if the large ledge on the right is avoided.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Road to the Lost City" number="3031." stars="**" id="48">Originally called Pipeline, but known by the above name for many years. It is 15m around the corner from Morehead’s Corner and easy to identify now because the council has put cables over a potentially loose boulder at the top. Climb the left hand crack/corner then traverse right onto the black face past 3 carrots and the macrame. DBB. Ng and Vincent 1992. A direct start has been done at the same grade (for tall people) but doesn’t add much to the climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="The One That Wasn&apos;t" number="3132." stars="" id="49" fa="Selby, McMahon, 1997.">Crack to the right of Road to the Lost City.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Manitou" number="3233." stars="" id="50" fa="McMahon, Selby, 1997.">Next crack to the right.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="51">Across the gully on the upstream side of the Road to the Lost City buttress is a single pillar. Access by scrambling up the gully on the left of Moreheads Corner and then heading left just before where the 2 pipes cross over.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Macu Picu" number="3334." stars="**" id="52" fa="Fox, Tierney, 1996.">The arete with 2 eye-bolts and wires. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="53">The Lost City / Left Kohoutek</text>
  <text class="text" id="54">Access - either from the top of Road to the Lost City go 50m uphill and slightly downstream or scramble up the gully on the upstream side of Road to the Lost City, go past the crossed over pipes and then go right to walk along the single pipe for 30m. From here the buttress is visible 40m uphill and slightly downstream. Short climbs but worth a visit if you’re in the area.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Rose in the Dust" id="55" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." number="3435.">The off-width looking crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Iliocostalis" id="56" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982" number="3536.">The crack 2m downstream of Only the Wheel. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="9m" name="Only the Wheel" number="3637." stars="**" id="57" fa="Ng, Vincent, 1992.">3 bolts up the right hand arete.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="Kohoutek" number="3738." stars="" id="58" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.">Corner right of arete.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="59">Right Kohoutek</text>
  <text class="text" id="60">Head downstream another 50m from Left Kohoutek staying on the same level and crossing the head of a gully. Alternatively from the hut with the concrete tree trunks head directly up the hill for 60m.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="In Cahoots" number="3839." stars="" id="61" fa="Fisher 1997.">Climb the fused corner for 2m before moving out to the left arête for another 2m and then back to the crack. Sounds contrived, but who knows I haven’t done it.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" name="Lazy Mahout" number="3940." stars="*" id="62" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2002.">The arete right of In Cahouts with 3 FH and a 1 friend at the top. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Rainy Day Woman" id="63" fa="Selby, McMahon 1997." number="4041.">Pleasant crack climbing up the middle of the face.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="64">Gold 101 Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="65">Now back on the tourist track 55 steps upstream from the hut with the fake cement tree trunks is the next climb. It is also 40 steps downstream from the ramp leading to Road to the Lost City.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gold 101" id="66" fa="Narkowicz, 1983." number="4142.">Climb up the easy face to a ledge with a DBB. These are actually to facilitate measuring of rock movement and were placed by council. Nice of them hey! Move right around the arete to a black face with a thin crack up it. Climb this then move left at half height to an easier crack to finish at a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="67">From the picnic shelter walk 40 steps downstream to be level with a small block of rock 10m above the track with an off-width (grade 19 if you have to do it) up the right side.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Sanctity" number="4243." stars="" id="68" fa="Narkowicz, 1999.">A natural pro sports route. This route is yet to see an ascent placing gear on lead. Otherwise it’s something of a hassle since you have to rap down to pre-place gear! Climb the face left of the off-width heading left at the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="69">30 steps further downstream is another small pinnacle with an even smaller conifer in front of it. It’s possible to see the shiny hangers of this route from the track in front of Sanctity.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="9m" name="History Maker" number="4344." stars="**" id="70" fa="Narkowicz, 2001.">Great moves up past 4 FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="71">New Move Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="72">If you feel like a bit of a scrub bash you can now head up the footpads 35 steps upstream from the New Move that lead to small buttress above the arêtes. Discovered by Narkowicz just after McMahon published the Cataract guide they destroyed once and for all the notion of a definitive guide book.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Time for an Update" id="73" fa="Narkowicz, 2000." number="4445.">The finger crack up the left hand side of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="Another Poxy Route for the Next Edition" id="74" fa="Narkowicz, 2000." number="4546.">The very thin crack left of the chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="Stuff the Guidebook" id="75" fa="Narkowicz, 2000." number="4647.">Up the prow of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="One for the Appendix" id="76" fa="Narkowicz, 2000." number="4748.">Right of STG and left of the chimney.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="77">Back down on the tourist track 115 steps on from History Maker you will reach a series of 3 pillars with bolted climbs going up the arêtes of each.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="9m" name="Schizo" id="78" fa="Fox, Tiz, 2002." number="4849.">The same pillar as The New Move just sticking to the upstream face. Contrived but fun and the tourists won’t know the difference. 2 FH to the same DBB as The New Move.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="20" length="9m" name="Revival Arete /Telecum /The New Move" number="4950." stars="***" id="79" fa="Narkowicz (solo), back in the Jurassic era.">Call it what you will just do it! 2 eye-bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="9m" name="Bridget" number="5051." stars="" id="80">Corner to the R.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="23" length="7m" name="Prohibitionist" number="5152." stars="*" id="81" fa="Fisher, 1996.">The middle arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="27" length="9m" name="No Dams" number="5253." stars="**" id="82" fa="Chris Shepherd, 1985.">The downstream arete. 2 eye-bolts and a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="83">Heckle Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="84">15 steps past the last of the arêtes is Ivy Crack</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Ivy Crack" id="85" fa="Fantini, Smith, 1980." number="5354.">A thin crack that opens up to hand crack towards the top. It’s climbability is often threatened by the encroachment of ivy. People have been threatening to clean it out for years. You could be the one.</climb>
  <climb id="95" name="Fox Trot" length="15m" grade="28" fa="Polinski 2010." extra="Þ" number="5455.">The bolted open-book dihedral 10 steps right of Ivy Crack. Climb thin crimps up the dihedral and pull the roof trending left to mantle on a ledge. A long reach up and right guards the anchors. If your too short to reach the hold from the ledge without jumping, this is probably more like 29.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="17" length="15m" name="Six Agile Men" number="5556." stars="**" id="87" fa="Fox and 5 agile men, 2001.">Climb the corner or boulder up the arête 10 steps from FTA. Continue up the slab past a tree branch and 3 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="88">Continue downstream for another 10 steps.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="19" length="7m" name="Fighting the Authorities" number="5657." stars="*" id="89" fa="Selby, 1999.">Up past 2 FH on the left of the arete. Same DBB as TMMT.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="7m" name="Spunky Monkey" number="5758." stars="" id="90" fa="M Johnston, 2009.">Contrived but worthwhile. Climbs the face and arete around the corner from Fighting the Authorities without useing any holds on the Fighting the Authorities face. the Same DBB as TMMT.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="9m" name="The Magical Mousey Tour" number="5859." stars="" id="91" fa="Learmont, 1999.">Around the arête from FTA or 20 steps upstream from POTR. 2FH. Starts in the corner, under the roof. Up to clip the first bolt, then out left onto the face and up. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="97" stars="**" extra="" number="5960." name="Hidden Fingers" length="7m" grade="20" fa="Bob McMahon">An old neglected McMahon route that hadn't had been seeing much traffic. Recently revived by the addition of a DBB which makes getting down much easier. Great sustained and tricky finger locking for a few moves up the nice crack. Harder if you avoid bridging across to the hanging arete on the left.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Path of the Righteous" id="92" fa="Narkowicz, 1999." number="6061.">More like “path of the idiotic”. When concerns were raised about the poor bolting quality (protruding carrots and lack of lower offs) on this climb the first ascentionist saw fit to hack them off but not replace them with something better. If you really want to solo it (or better yet, if an altruistic individual retro-bolts it) the route starts 15 steps from FTA on an face left of a small roof around the arete from Heckle.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Heckle" id="93" fa="McMahon and McHugh, 1972." number="6162.">The off-width that hits you in the face as you walk from the toll gate. 155 steps from the start of the bottom end of the track. For those interested in history McMahon thinks this may have been the first climb done in the Gorge. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Elphin" id="94" fa="McMahon and a crow-eater, 1973." number="6263.">The corner 3m right of Heckle.</climb>