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Guide
<guide version="2" pagesize="500" guidestars="**">
  <header id="1" walk="5-20 mins" sun="Afternoon sun" rock="Vertical dolerite buttresses, up to 25m high" name="South Esk" intro="This section of the guide covers routes on the South Esk from the First Basin, up to the Trevallyn Dam. The areas are described from downstream to upstream. " history="" acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets." access="For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side. Drive from town to Corin Street and then walk down to the Power House Museum or walk for 20 minutes upstream from the First Basin to this fantastic area. If you have a look at the map you&apos;ll see that there are crags that are marked that are not described in this guide. It&apos;s not because there aren&apos;t any climbs on them. They could well be fantastic. It&apos;s just that I don&apos;t know anything about them. So if you feel like a bit of an adventure head on up or check out Gerry&apos;s Guide to the South Esk." camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <image id="2" height="1210" width="" src="launceston south esk detail map.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="95">Above the Suspension Bridge</text>
  <text class="text" id="96">Access: These first routes are around the track that heads south from the suspension bridge at the First Basin. See map. Council has also very nicely placed distance markers on the track starting at the Suspension bridge. These make handy guides to the climbs.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="97">Ice Scream Buttress</text>
  <image id="98" height="825" width="" src="suspension bridge sketch map.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="text" id="99">Access: From the first bridge on the Duck Reach track stand and look at the cliff. Straight in front of you is an orange and black face with two FH. This is Ice Cream. Above this and slightly downstream is a large block with 3 FH this is Shiloh. The face on your immediate left is Zerubbabel and Spooksville.</text>
  <climb id="100" name="Shiloh" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="" number="1.">Climb on the left of the arête past three FH. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="101" name="Zerubbabel" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" number="2.">Climb the blank face to the horizontal break, which is only 16 if you have the reach, then continue up.</climb>
  <climb id="102" name="Spooksville" fa="Narkowicz, Bennet, McMahon, 2001." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" number="3.">The next route right up the stepped scoop. Originally done with a piton runner.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Ice Cream" length="15m" grade="19" extra="2Þ" stars="**" number="4.">Cause it tastes so good. By which ever way appeals to you climb on to the grassy ledge beneath the black and orange face with 2 bolts. Climb this to crack and then up to the DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="104">There are obviously a few climbs possible in the amphitheatre right of Ice Cream. This next climb is on the pillar on the right and above the amphitheatre. Access either by climbing up to it or scrambling up from the upstream end of the bridge.</text>
  <climb id="105" name="Not By Might" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 2000." length="8m" grade="18" extra="" number="5.">Climb the face and thin crack protected by small wires. Requires a degree of commitment so may be beyond most blokes. Worth doing so you can get to the next two climbs which are must do’s if you have an interest in the obscure.</climb>
  <climb id="106" name="Treasures in Heaven" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="5m" grade="22" extra="" number="6.">20m up hill from Not By Might is a pinnacle with one bolt. Take a wire as well.</climb>
  <climb id="107" name="Disproportionate Destruction" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="5m" grade="22" extra="Þ" stars="" number="7.">20 m further up hill and upstream from Treasures in Heaven is another little boulder with 2 bolts. Use your ingenuity for the belay.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="108">The 50 m of track from marker 4 contains some excellent climbing combined with easy access. A Prophet’s Reward is visible from the track just before you get to marker 4. The crack and off-width on the left may look appealing but don’t be mislead. Climb the bolts to the right instead. Best access is by scrambling up the track just past the marker.</text>
  <climb id="109" name="A Prophets Reward" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="9m" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="*" number="8.">The only reward you’ll get here is a good pump. Excellent climbing just beware of knocking anything down on to the tourist track and the unsuspecting public. Climb up past 4 FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="110">Allodynia Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="111">On the upstream end of the wooden bridge just after marker 4 is a large buttress. Access by climbing down off the bridge or walking across the gully from the downstream end of the bridge.</text>
  <climb id="210" name="Red Sweater" length="10m" grade="27" extra="3Þ" stars="*" number="9.">The first route on the left (up hill) end of the buttress. Start on the stacked boulders and pull the bulge to easier climbing above. If the stacked boulders are no longer there (or you simply want a little more of a challenge), starting off the ground increases the grade to 28.</climb>
  <climb id="112" name="Supratentorial" fa="Fox, Kearnes, 2002." length="10m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="10.">Up arete past 2 U-bolts to horizontal break (1/2 friend) then up thin crack past another U-bolt to DBB. Worth doing at 21 by pulling on the first bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="113" name="Allodynia" fa="Fox, Kearnes, 1996." length="12m" grade="22" extra="5Þ" stars="**" number="11.">Climb up the face past the two eye-bolts to the horizontal break and the up the thin crack passing 2 more eye bolts. Keep going over the bulge past a U bolt to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="114" name="Aldente" length="12m" grade="17" extra="" number="12.">Step off the bridge onto the large hand crack and corner 2m right of Allodynia, or if you really must, go all the way to bottom to start.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="115">Big Blouse Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="116">Access: from the top of the stairs after Allodynia step over the fence and walk over to the she-oaks hanging over the cliff. There is a DBB which raps straight over Big Norm’s Blouse.</text>
  <climb id="117" name="Victim of Circus Pants" fa="DeCesare, Fox, 2002." length="10m" grade="23/24" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="13.">Superb, pumpy climbing up the face from the ledge on the left of Big Norm’s Blouse. Climb the crack on the right of the face then clip the first U-bolt and continue left past another 3 U-bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="Big Norm’s Blouse" fa="Selby, 1999." length="15m" grade="20" extra="3Þ" stars="*" number="14.">Although it’s tempting to only rap to the ledge, and climb the face past 3 FH, you actually get better value if you go all the way to the ground and wack some gear into the crack at the bottom.</climb>
  <climb id="119" name="Lady Midnight’s Daughter" length="15m" grade="15" extra="" stars=" * " number="15.">The corner 2m to the right of Norm’s Blouse which goes up to a flake/off-width. Actually climbs very nicely.</climb>
  <climb id="120" name="Little Gerry’s Knickers" length="8m" grade="18" extra="" number="16.">Climb the twin cracks 4m right of Lady Midnight’s Daughter to the ledge then step right at the FH and over the top.</climb>
  <climb id="121" name="Ground Zero" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="7m" grade="25" extra="4Þ" stars="**" number="17.">Not exactly clip or die with 4 FH and a DBB but good and powerful. Continue straight up the arete above Little Gerry’s Knickers.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="122">Across the river (cross on weir) and down stream about 50m are two more climbs.</text>
  <climb id="123" name="Root and Kill" fa="Bissett, Tierney, 1997." length="17m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" ** " number="18.">Look for a flaring crack that blanks out after about five meters, spot the bolt above this and your there. The crack to the bolt, then right to gear, back left to another bolt then up past bulge to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="124" name="Max the Killer Kelpie" fa="Tierney, Bissett, 1997." length="17m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * " number="19.">Just right of R&amp;K is a broken looking face. Climb this to a slot, then over the bulge to same DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="125">The next two climbs are above Allodynia Buttress and best accessed by scrambling up the slope 10m past the top of the stairs after Allodynia.</text>
  <climb id="126" name="Fat Alex" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="6m" grade="21" extra="2Þ" stars="**" number="20.">Another exercise in curiousity value. Visible from the track as pinnacle on the skyline 40m above Allodynia Buttress. 2 FH, the first can be tricky to reach. Single bolt belay on top.</climb>
  <climb id="127" name="Glory and Power" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="24" extra="" number="21.">From the top of the stairs an orange buttress with a FH on the face is visible 40 m uphill and slightly upstream. Climb the crack up to the first FH then up to the horizontal break (1.5 cam) then move left to the 2nd FH. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="128" name="Glory With-out Power" fa="Fox, DeCesare, Bissett, 2002." length="8m" grade="21" extra="" stars="" number="22.">From the second horizontal break of Glory and Power move right and continue up past a FH. Less contrived than GAP especially if you don’t have the reach for the 2nd bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="129" name="Finger Frolic" fa="Johnson, Sam, 1996." length="10m" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="" number="23.">Line of four left trending eye-bolts visible 10m up the hill when standing at marker 5.</climb>
  <climb id="130" name="White Water Arete" fa="Wilson, 2001." length="12m" grade="19" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="24.">Excellent climbing and a great discovery by young Alex. At marker 5 turn and look downstream at the river. You will see 3 FH on the edge of a pinnacle 20m away. Scramble down to the base then climb up past 3 FH and a 3 cam. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="131" name="Max Steel" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="" number="25.">30m past marker 5 if look up between the boulders you will see an orange face with 3 FH on it. Best access is to scramble up 10m back. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="132" name="Howard’s Shield" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="7m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="" number="26.">Sound’s like some kind of IUD. 150m past marker 6 there is a lump of rock very close to the track. On the right side is 3 FH. The first FH can be clipped by climbing the ledge on the left. Heck so can the second. Worth doing if you’re there. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="133" name="Day of Infamy" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="9m" grade="24" extra="" number="27.">At marker 9 head up hill for 40m. The face with 1 FH is just visible from the track. Climb past FH to thin crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="134">The Gallows</text>
  <text class="text" id="135">Access: 50m past marker 10, just before the track steepens to go up the switch back, jump over the fence and go down to the river. From here walk upstream for 100m. Hangman’s Noose is the very obvious prow.</text>
  <climb id="136" name="Driller Killer" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Mick Ling, 3 Dec 1983." length=" " grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="28.">Face on left of cliff.</climb>
  <climb id="137" name="Dead on Arrival" fa="Matthew Mann, 2002." length="12m" grade="26" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="29.">Up over the roof past 4 FH being careful not to impale yourself on the 3rd one. DBB way over the back.</climb>
  <climb id="138" name="Sixty Metre Zoom Lense" fa="Narkowicz, 2002." length="12m" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="**" number="30.">Either traverse in from the left or the right or go straight up it the river is down. The face with 4 FH 3m right of Hangman’s Noose, meeting it at the same DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="139" name="One False Move and the Lights Go Out" fa="Mick Ling et al 1983." length="14m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="31.">Up the blocky chimney and then up the left hand crack.</climb>
  <climb id="140" name="The Gallows" fa="Narkowicz 1984." length="14m" grade="22" extra="" stars="**" number="32.">Same start as Reprieve but take the right hand finger crack.</climb>
  <climb id="141" name="Waiting to be Blown Away" fa="Narkowicz 1983." length="12m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="33.">The hand crack 3m right of The Gallows.</climb>
  <climb id="142" name="Fridge Lifting 101" fa="Ian Ferrier 13 Nov 2007." length="" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="" number="34." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="136" guide.action="submit">Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of Waiting to be Blown Away. Classic arête climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arête into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top. Rap Chains at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="143">Second Basin Terrace</text>
  <text class="text" id="144">10m downstream from marker 14. Jump over the fence and you should see some DBB on the edge of the tier 2m below. Rap off these to the ledge 10m below.</text>
  <climb id="145" name="Utterly Meaningless" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="16" extra="" number="35.">From the main ledge go left on to the grassy ledge and then climb the thin corner.</climb>
  <climb id="146" name="Ecclesiastes" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="36.">Climb the sharp arete with 3 FH to the DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="147" name="Fear God and His Commandments" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="10m" grade="24" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="37.">Excellent climbing up the bolted corner then traverse right to finish up the overlap and crack passing more iron mongery and a fixed wire.</climb>
  <climb id="148" name="Remember Your Creator" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="10m" grade="24" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="38.">Improbable climbing up the blunt arete past 4 FH. Worth pre-clipping the first one. Hard to avoid moving right in places but worthwhile if you can.</climb>
  <climb id="149" name="Bonfire of the Vanities" fa="Fisher, 2001." length="9m" grade="20" extra="" number="39.">The thin seam up to the crack 2m right of RYC.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="150">The Black Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="151">There are lots of ways to get to this face which has got some of the longest and most enjoyable climbs in the South Esk. The quickest way is to park at Duck Reach and walk back down the river on the track till you get to marker 15. 60 steps down river from there you should see a tree with a chain around it (provided some well meaning idiot hasn’t removed it). Alternatively you can walk up from the First Basin and 60 steps past marker 14 see the same tree. Or if you want to be different you can walk in from the Denison Grove car park. This has the advantage of taking you past the Retirement Village cliff. Abseil from the tree to the base of the cliff which is 35m. There are 2 rap stations on the ledge 10m down if you don’t have an extra rope.</text>
  <climb id="152" name="Cop That To The Max" fa="Hyland, Tristram, 2001." length="25m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" ** " number="40.">If you rapped in from the downstream rap station you would have passed directly over this climb. Scramble up slab to broken crack then move left to slab. Up past FH to off-finger crack in the corner and up to DBB. Scramble up right on grassy ledges then climb the crack which leads back to the rap tree.</climb>
  <climb id="153" name="Rampaging Roy" fa="DeCesare, Fox, 2002." length="25m" grade="21" extra="" number="41.">The same start and the same finish as CTTTM. Up slab to broken crack but then blast straight up thin twin cracks to join CTTTM at the off-finger crack.</climb>
  <climb id="154" name="H.G. Nelson Memorial Route" fa="Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002." length="25m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="***" number="42.">Once again start up the slab as for Cop that to the Max but continue right to the thin corner with 5 FH.</climb>
  <climb id="155" name="Club Buggery" fa="Fox, DeCesare, Tiz, 2002." length="23m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="43.">Start 3m to the right of Cop that to the Max. Up downstream facing corner past 2 FH then continue up broken crack system past 5 more FH to DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="156">Retirement Village</text>
  <text class="text" id="157">From the carpark at the top of Denison Grove walk down the path to the Duck Reach track. After about 200m you should see a big cairn on your right. Head across to this and then continue down to the pipeline. Walk along this for 20m and you will be at the top of the Retirement Village.</text>
  <climb id="158" name="Dementia" length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * " number="44.">The obvious off-width with a hidden finger crack on the inside. Luckily no fist jamming is required. Up this to the ledge and then continue up thin crack and face to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="159" name="Senescence" fa="Fox, DeCesare and Nichols, 2002." length="10m" grade="18" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="45.">The face 2m right of Dementia. Up past 3 FH and some cams to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="160" name="Ungraceful Retirement" length="7m" grade="18" extra="" number="46.">The hand crack to the ledge and DBB</climb>
  <climb id="161" name="Project" length="11m" grade="27" extra="Þ" stars="" number="47.">Up steep face then on to slab above. 3 U-bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="207">Duck Reach</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="3">Sewerage Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="4">Access - The first buttress that you come to 50m 3 levels each about 10m high.</text>
  <climb id="5" name="Scutch" fa="McMahon, Johnson, 1995." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" number="48.">The thin crack on the bottom level on the right.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="6">The next two climbs are on the middle level.</text>
  <climb id="7" name="Sinistra" fa="McMahon, Johnson, 1995." length="10m" grade="21" extra="" number="49.">On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Up Your Cloaca" fa="Johnson, McMahon, 1995." length="8m" grade="14" extra="" number="50.">The slightly off-width corner 5m right of Sinistra.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">The third tier has another two climbs on it.</text>
  <climb id="10" name="Arson" fa="Selby, McMahon, 1995." length="12m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="51.">The left hand crack and corner.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Libido" fa="McMahon, Johnson, 1995." length="12m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" * " number="52.">Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out!</climb>
  <climb id="12" name="Sex on a Stick" fa="McMahon (solo), 198?." length="14m" grade="19" extra="" number="53.">The off-width/chimney 3m right of Libido.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="13">Bouzareah Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">Access - best reached by following the footpad found at the upstream end of the car park down and across gully.</text>
  <climb id="15" name="Break On Through" fa="Johnson, McMahon, 1995." length="10m" grade="20" extra="2Þ" stars="*" number="54.">The arete with 2 eye-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Bouzareah" fa="McMahon, Johnson, 1995." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" number="55.">The thin crack round the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="17">Skidrow Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="18">Access - walk 100m up from the bridge to the first major buttress.</text>
  <image id="19" height="627" width="500" src="duck reach - sawsea.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <climb id="20" name="Powerhouse Arete" fa="Fisher, Johnson, 1996." length="12m" grade="25" extra="5Þ" stars="***" number="56.">The left hand arete with 4 or 5 eye-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Chimney" length=" " grade="12" extra="" stars="" number="57.">Chimney R of Powerhouse.</climb>
  <climb id="22" name="The Joy of Specs" fa="Fisher, Johnson, 1996." length="12m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="58.">3 eye-bolts to the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="23" name="Prison to Praise" fa="Narkowicz 1985." length=" " grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="59.">Start R of Joy of Specs at block. Climb crack, then left to join Joy.</climb>
  <climb id="24" name="Sawsea" fa="McMahon, Schmidt, 1973." length=" 10m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="60.">Offwidth.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="Sitting Bull" fa="McMahon, Schmidt, 1973." length="10m" grade="11" extra="" stars="***" number="61.">Bridge to hand crack.</climb>
  <climb id="208" name="Made in China" fa="Oliver, Johnston, 2011" length="10m" grade="23" extra="3Þ,DBÞ" stars="*" number="62.">The blunt arete. Thuggish moves at the bottom with an insecure rock-over at the top</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Experimental Method" fa="Johnston, Fox, 2009." length="10m" grade="27" extra="3Þ (22A0)" stars="" number="63.">The thin seam with 3U bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="First Disadvantage" fa="McMahon, Wells, 1989" length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="64.">The off-width crack.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="28">The next two climbs start on the lower tier.</text>
  <climb id="29" name="Short And Sweet" length="8m" grade="22" extra="" number="65.">Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="Skidrow" length="20m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="66.">The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="Deathrow" fa="Parsons, 1980&apos;s. " length="20m" grade="22" extra="Þ" stars="***" number="67.">Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. A commiting direct finish can be done at 24.</climb>
  <climb id="215" name="Lethal Injection " fa="G. Narkowicz, Oct. 2012." length="15m" grade="23" stars="**" number="68.">A bolted variant to the classic Deathrow (22) on Skidrow buttress. Same start on natural gear, then up the overhanging face via a 3 bolt boulder problem, then finish up the last 2 bolts of Deathrow taking in the crux of that route as well.</climb>
  <climb id="212" name="The Green Mile" fa="G. Narkowcz, Oct 2012" length="15m" grade="24" number="69.">The arête 5m R of Death Row. 5 bolts of thin face climbing to a crux dyno to the sloping ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="32">John of Gaunt Buttress</text>
  <climb id="33" name="Soho Crack" fa="McMahon 1973." length="10m" grade="15" extra="" stars="" number="70.">Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.The next climbs are on this tier.</climb>
  <climb id="34" name="The Number of the Beast#" length="12m" grade="15" extra="" number="71.">The obvious hand crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="35" name="Two Good Hooters" fa="Bissett, Tierney, 1997." length="12m" grade="23" extra="" stars="" number="72.">About 7m Left of Dagenham are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Don&apos;t Step on the Bananas" fa="Tierney, Bisset, 1997." length="12m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" ** " number="73.">The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn't. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Dagenham Smile" fa="McMahon 1996." length="12m" grade="20" extra="" stars="**" number="74.">Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff.</climb>
  <climb id="38" name="John of Gaunt" fa="McMahon 1973." length=" " grade="11" extra="" stars="" number="75.">The big wide corner.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="39">The next section of cliff is broken in to four distinct levels. There are many natural lines on this area a lot of which have been climbed, once. Feel free to repeat them but take your secateurs and shovel.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="40">Traffic Fine Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="41">The next buttress upstream with well travelled and more continuous climbs. There is a DBB belay at the top of the next 3 routes.</text>
  <image id="42" height="800" width="500" src="duck reach - traffic.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <climb id="217" name="Rust Bucket" fa="M.Koch, P.Koch: 2014" length="15" grade="18" extra="" stars="*" number="76.">At the far left of the buttress. Awkward start, climb up and bridge on small foot hold up until block. Crux move pulling though the block, continue in the crack above.</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="No Parking" length="20m" grade="20" extra="" stars="***" number="77.">Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="No Standing" fa="Ng and Vincent, 1990." length="20m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="***" number="78.">Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade.</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="Well Then Bruvvers" fa="Newell 1972." length="20m" grade="17" extra="" stars="**" number="79.">Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="Five Bells" fa="Joe Friend 1975." length=" " grade="19" extra="" stars="" number="80.">Chimney / crack, right up to the top of the summit boulder.</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="Insh Allah" fa="Fisher, 2001." length="15m" grade="28" extra="4Þ" stars="*" number="81.">Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="Vamp" length="35m" grade="17" extra="" number="82.">Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="49">The next 2 climbs finish at the same DBB.</text>
  <climb id="50" name="Sign of the Times" fa="Danny Ng, 1989." length="23m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="" number="83.">5m right of Vamp is a black face with 3 carrot bolts.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="51">On the blunt arete just right of SOTT is an unfinished climb with 2 carrots in it.</text>
  <climb id="52" name="Orient Express" fa="Danny Ng, 1989." length="23m" grade="24" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="84.">The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="53">The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.</text>
  <climb id="54" name="Parsons Piece" fa="Parsons, Narkowicz." length="20m" grade="25" extra="" stars="" number="85.">Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above.</climb>
  <text id="206">The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.</text>
  <climb id="55" name="Cake Slice" fa="Smart, McMahon, 1979." length="20m" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="86.">Climb up where the slice of cake was.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="56">10m up stream from the last climbs is a large block behind which are two cracks. DBB on top of Fantissimo.</text>
  <climb id="57" name="Fantissimo" fa="Fantini 1980." length="15m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="87.">The left hand hand-crack.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Rags of Comfort" fa="McMahon 1973." length="15m" grade="19" extra="" stars="" number="88.">You guessed it, the right hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="59">The tiers above the last two climbs may have some worthwhile climbs but I haven't done them.</text>
  <climb id="60" name="Seize the Day" fa="Parsons, 1980&apos;s. The direct start with 1 FH has been done at about grade 27 by Al Williams." length="25m" grade="26/27" extra="" stars="***" number="89.">Start by climbing Long Knife and then at the level of the 2nd FH traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb up past another 64 FH to the rap chains. Some small gear is needed between the 3rd and 4th bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="61" name="Long Knife" length="25m" grade="14" extra="" stars="*" number="90.">The surprisingly delightful and enjoyable chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="211" name="Road to War" fa="Polinski 2011" length="24m" grade="28" stars="**" number="91.">Start as for Seize the Day/Long Knife up the chimney but break right at about 8m and climb the bolted blunt arête of the large hanging pillar. The upper half is one of the best positions in the gorge. Currently, the direct start is a 32 or 33 project.</climb>
  <climb id="62" name="To the Crux and Beyond" fa="Lewis, Closs, 1973." length="18m" grade="20" extra="" stars="*" number="92.">On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="63">The next two climbs are 40m past the end of the major buttress and are very short even for the vertically challenged.</text>
  <climb id="64" name="Free Will" fa="McMahon, Selby, 1996." length="6m" grade="17" extra="" number="93.">Hand crack to off-width.</climb>
  <climb id="65" name="Out of Sight, Out of Mind" fa="Selby, McMahon, 1996." length="6m" grade="21" extra="" number="94.">Amen. The thin crack on the right.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="66">Back in Black Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="67">100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.</text>
  <climb id="68" name="Possum Run" length="8m" grade="10" extra="" number="95.">The left most line, a worthwhile descent route.</climb>
  <climb id="69" name="A Long Way To The Top" fa="Narkowicz, 2002." length="8m" grade="26" extra="Þ" number="96.">The corner right of Possum Run with one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips.</climb>
  <climb id="70" name="Back in Black" fa="McMahon, Selby, 1996." length="8m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" ** " number="97.">The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run.</climb>
  <climb id="71" name="Highway to Hell" fa="Narkowicz, Ling, Deka, Smith, McMahon." length="8m" grade="19" extra="" number="98.">The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black.</climb>
  <climb id="72" name="TNT" fa="Selby, Wardlow, Fox, Nichols, 1996." length="6m" grade="16" extra="" number="99.">The dual crack system in the corner.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="73">Nebraska Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="74">The next buttress is another 100m upstream almost opposite Pubic Flash.</text>
  <climb id="75" name="Dancing With Maria" fa="McMahon 1983." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="100.">Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner.</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="New Jersey Turnpike" fa="McMahon 1983." length="10m" grade="16" extra="" stars="**" number="101.">Nice hand jamming.</climb>
  <climb id="77" name="County Line" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length="10m" grade="17" extra="" stars="**" number="102.">Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent.</climb>
  <climb id="78" name="Proctologist" fa="Selby, 1996." length="8m" grade="19" extra="" number="103.">Climb the crack in the corner 15m upstream from the last wall.</climb>
  <climb id="79" name="Jonestown Flood" fa="McMahon 1983." length="10m" grade="21" extra="" stars="" number="104.">5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs.</climb>
  <climb id="80" name="Atlantic City" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length=" " grade="15" extra="" stars="" number="105.">Arete to R.</climb>
  <climb id="81" name="Doodle" fa="McMahon 1983." length=" " grade="16" extra="" stars="" number="106.">Corner round from Jonestown Flood.</climb>
  <climb id="82" name="Nebraska" fa="McMahon 1983." length=" " grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="107.">Fused corner with tree.</climb>
  <climb id="83" name="Blood on Blood" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length=" " grade="16" extra="" stars="" number="108.">Offwidth past roofs.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="84">Between here and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and quite a few of the bolted ones. Some of them are probably worth repeating. Go and get the Narkowicz Guide To The Cosmos to be fully enlightened.</text>
  <climb id="85" name="The Imitation of Christ" fa="Narkowicz 2002." length=" " grade="24" extra="4Þ" stars="*" number="109.">Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="86">Ramona</text>
  <text class="text" id="87">Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach Cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach suspension bridge as the river bends around to the right.</text>
  <climb id="88" name="Louis the King" length="10m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" *** " number="110.">Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.</climb>
  <climb id="89" name="Mac The Finger" length="12m" grade="22" extra="" number="111.">Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.</climb>
  <climb id="90" name="Temporary Like Achilles" fa="McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980." length="12m" grade="18" extra="" number="112.">10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these.</climb>
  <climb id="91" name="Smith and Wesson Blues" fa="Colyvan, Smith, 1981." length="12m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" * " number="113.">The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above.</climb>
  <climb id="92" name="The Sting" fa="Mick Ling." length="25m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" *** " number="114.">An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="93" name="The Burning" fa="Danny Ng." length="25m" grade="24" extra="" number="115.">Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting.</climb>
  <climb id="94" name="Ramona" length="20m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" *** " number="116.">Climb the corner 10m upstream from The Sting and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="95">Headbanger Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="96">You can get to this buttress by crossing the river and bashing up the hill from the Duck Reach track just past marker 9. Better is to come in from the Hoo Hoo Hut side of the gorge. On the Duck Reach Road to the Hoo Hoo hut, 1.2 km from the cattle grid, is a sign for the Snake Gully track. Park and follow the track downhill past the horse jumps till you get to a junction with a 4wd track. Turn right, which will take you to the Hoo Hoo hut, the Duck Reach Power station and the Rabbit Trap Buttresses. 40m from the junction, at a slight crest, go left and into the bush. You should pick a cairn fairly soon (for some reason Parks has taken to removing all cairns visible from the track). Follow these along the faint ridge and then down the hill for about 150m. You should emerge either at the top of the buttress or at the bottom of it on the upstream end.</text>
  <climb id="97" name="Devil&apos;s Grip the Iron Fist" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" number="117.">The broken hand crack above the cairn on the left of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="98" name="The Mob Rules" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" * " number="118.">The thin looking corner/crack 1m right of DGTIF. Good climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="99" name="Die Young" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="10m" grade="22" extra="" stars=" ** " number="119.">The corner right of TMR. Superb bridging with small wires.</climb>
  <climb id="100" name="Paranoid" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="14m" grade="20" extra="" number="120.">The large hand crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge (grade 16), then finish up Impale me on the Horns of Death.</climb>
  <climb id="101" name="Impale Me on the Horns of Death" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="14m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" * " number="121.">The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of Paranoia. Some loose sounding flakes can be disconcerting but worth doing anyway. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="102" name="Attack of the Mad Axeman" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="6m" grade="18" extra="" number="122.">The crack right of the above climb. Climb this to the top of the boulder. It's pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described below.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Kill With Power" fa="Tierney, 1985." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * " number="123.">The crack around the corner and up hill from AOTMA.</climb>
  <climb id="104" name="Depressed Fracture" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="8m" grade="20" extra="" number="124.">The next line uphill and right of KWP.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="105">Rabbit Trap Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="106">A great area with morning sun and afternoon shade so good climbing is possible in summer and winter. Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left across a cattle grid on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Park there and then take the walk to the Duck Reach Power Station. Instead of walking down the stairs to the power station continue along the track and down the hill. Cross a dry (generally) rocky creek bed and continue up the hill on the other side. At the crest of the hill turn 90 right and walk about 80m. This should bring you to the top of the Old Timers Buttresses. All up it's about 15 minutes walk.</text>
  <image id="107" height="1452" width="" src="rabbit trap map.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="108">K.Archer Buttress</text>
  <climb id="109" name="Enjo" fa="Fox, Tiz, 2002." length="9m" grade="20" extra="" number="125.">The left most crack on the K.Archer Buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="110" name="If I Were A Border Collie I Could Go For A Girl Like You" fa="DeCesare, Kearnes, 2002." length="9m" grade="19" extra="" number="126.">4m right of Enjo.</climb>
  <climb id="111" name="Voyeur" fa="Webb and the little girl, 2002." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" number="127.">The last obvious crack of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="112">The Dr Seuss Pinnacle contains the following climbs and has a DBB on top.</text>
  <climb id="113" name="Green Eggs and Ham" fa="Fox, Tiz, 2002." length="8m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * " number="128.">The large hand crack on the upstream face of the pinnacle. Climbs better than it looks.</climb>
  <climb id="114" name="Sam I Am" fa="Fox, Tiz, 2002." length="13m" grade="24" extra="5Þ" stars="*" number="129.">Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="115">Pissing On Trees</text>
  <text class="text" id="116">See Map. Either walk in directly from the 4WD track or walk above the cliffs from the Old Timers Buttresses. The first 4 climbs are set on a slightly separate part of the cliff.</text>
  <climb id="117" name="Painful Addiction" fa="Tiz, Kearnes, 2001." length="7m" grade="19" extra="Þ" stars="" number="130.">Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="Gerry Does Dallas" fa="Bissett, Kearnes, 2001." length="8m" grade="24/25" extra="" stars=" ** " number="131.">Give yourself the full grade if you place gear as you go. The thin crack 3m right of Painful Addiction.</climb>
  <climb id="119" name="Sex and Candy" fa="Fox, Kearnes, 2001." length="8m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="*" number="132.">This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Gerry Does Dallas.</climb>
  <climb id="120" name="Small Butt, Perfectly Formed" fa="Kearnes, Tiz, 2001." length="8m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" * " number="133.">Now the truth is out. Boulder up past the single FH 2m right of Sex and Candy to the thin crack above.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="121">The rest of these climbs are back on the main buttress.</text>
  <climb id="122" name="Machine Gum Fellatio" fa="Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001." length="10m" grade="17" extra="" number="134.">The left most crack of the buttress. Follow your nose to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="123" name="Howling at the Moon" fa="Fox, Tiz, 2001." length="12m" grade="25" extra="Þ" stars="***" number="135.">Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all.</climb>
  <climb id="124" name="Pissing in the Rain" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2001." length="11m" grade="22" extra="Þ" stars="*" number="136.">Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="125" name="Poor Kevin Urinal" fa="Fox, Bissett, 2001." length="10m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="137.">The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="126" name="Brompton Oratory" fa="DeCesare, Haas, 2001." length="9m" grade="20" extra="" number="138.">On the rightmost end of the cliff. Boulder up to horizontal break. Up thin crack above which gradually widens. Same DBB as PKU.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="127">When you look from the top of the Pissing on Trees Buttress towards the river there is a pillar 30m away and slightly down stream. Either rap from the Pissing in the Rain belay down over the vegetation or scramble down over it to the front of this pinnacle for the next climb.</text>
  <climb id="128" name="Halcyon Daze" fa="Fox, Bissett, 2001." length="12m" grade="24" extra="6Þ" stars="***" number="139.">The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="129">Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper</text>
  <text class="text" id="130">See map. Named after the old rabbit trap that should still be at the top of the buttress.</text>
  <climb id="131" name="Black Humour" fa=" Originally done by Narkowicz with-out the bolt or the belay." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" number="140.">Boulder up the left most face of the cliff past a FH then up the crack system above to a DBB. Nice climbing but marred by the fact that it is split into 3 tiers. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="132" name="Pilgerman" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" number="141.">Uninspiring looking climbing up the cracks 3m right of Black Humour.</climb>
  <climb id="133" name="Anal Fist Fuck Four" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2001." length="12m" grade="20" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="142.">Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam.</climb>
  <climb id="134" name="Pets Prefer Purple" fa="DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001." length="12m" grade="21" extra="5Þ" stars="***" number="143.">One of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the arête 3m right of AFFF to finish at DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="135" name="Road to Moonarie" fa="Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001." length="10m" grade="20" extra="3Þ" stars="" number="144.">8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="136" name="Tulip Variant" fa="Tiz, Kearnes, 2001." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" number="145.">An excellent variant finish to RTM. At the horizontal break move left to finish up the crack.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="137">Half way between Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper and the Old Timers Buttresses is a small cliff with the next two climbs. Access is by walking along the bottom either from Rabbit Trap or Old Timers.</text>
  <climb id="138" name="Chilli Jam" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2001." length="8m" grade="17" extra="" number="146.">Climb the orange corner on (shock, horror) natural gear. Don't worry there is a DBB on top.</climb>
  <climb id="139" name="GBH with a Deadly Possum" fa="Fox, Nichols, 2001." length="9m" grade="17" extra="Þ" stars="**" number="147.">Up the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="140">Old Timers Buttresses</text>
  <text class="text" id="141">If you take the turn off from the 4wd track on the crest of the hill you should find yourself on top of Possumlea which has a DBB on top of it.</text>
  <climb id="142" name="Up The Wall With Dennis" fa="Rob DeCesare, Dennis Kearnes Mar 2008." length="8m" grade="19" extra="" stars="" number="148.">Climb the face and arete to the right of Over The top With Jim. 3FH and DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="143" name="Over the Top with Jim" fa="Fox, Sharman, 2001." length="8m" grade="21" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="149.">20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="144" name="Possumlea" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2001." length="9m" grade="22" extra="2Þ" stars="" number="150.">2 bolts up the blunt arête. Stick clip the first. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="145" name="Mr Natural" fa="Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001" length="9m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * " number="151.">Around the corner from Possumlea is another natural gear route. What is the world coming to! However it does have a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="146" name="You&apos;re Just a Tired Old Man Dad" fa="Dennis Kearnes, Rob DeCesare Mar 2008." length="9m" grade="17" extra="" stars="" number="152.">Start with the first move on Mr Natural then move right and up the blunt arete. 1 wire and 2FH, DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="147" name="Shoes, Glue and Almost No Can Do" fa="Sharman, Fox, 2001." length="8m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" * " number="153.">The face on the pillar 3m right of Mr Natural. 2 eye bolts and some cams.</climb>
  <climb id="148" name="Not Just a Pretty Face" fa="Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001." length="9m" grade="16" extra="Þ" stars="*" number="154.">Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="149">Pubic Flash</text>
  <image id="150" height="282" width="500" src="pubic flash sketch map.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="text" id="151">From Hoo Hoo Hut you can go either way along the loop to Deadman's Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so will need a bit of wire brushing after a winter of sloth.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="152">Pubic Flash Pinnacle</text>
  <climb id="153" name="Violation" fa="Maddison, McMahon, 1978." length="20m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" * " number="155.">On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="154" name="Screw" fa="Reg Marron 1973." length="" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="156.">Climbs Pubic Flash for 10m, then left on blocks.</climb>
  <climb id="155" name="Pubic Flash" fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length="" grade="13" extra="" stars="" number="157.">Wide crack and chimney on downstream face of main cliff.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="156">Pubic Flash Wall</text>
  <climb id="157" name="Born Again" fa="Narkowicz, 1985." length="15m" grade="24" extra="" stars="*" number="158.">The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi.</climb>
  <climb id="158" name="The Narrow Road" fa="Narkowicz 1985." length="" grade="22" extra="" stars="" number="159.">Prominent thin corner.</climb>
  <climb id="159" name="Obi Wan Kenobi" fa="Ng 1990." length="17m" grade="25" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="160.">2 bolts and 2 fixed hangers. Brilliant laybacking the whole length with the crux coming just before the first bolt. A small cam (green alien) and medium nut are usefull if going ground up.</climb>
  <climb id="160" name="Optometrist" fa="Ng 1990." length="17m" grade="27" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="161.">4 carrot bolts. The bolts are quite widley spaced and awkward to clip so check it out before you attempt the onsight (or have someone else check it out if you really want the onsight).</climb>
  <climb id="161" name="Penetration" fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." length="17m" grade="21" extra="" stars="" number="162.">5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean.</climb>
  <climb id="162" name="Back Door To Heaven" fa="Ng 1991." length="17m" grade="24" extra="7Þ" stars="**" number="163.">2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="163">Willow Jungle Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="164">Access- see map. Stand in front of the map at the Hoo Hoo Hut and then walk directly south as indicated on the map(actually south-west). With-in 50m 10 minutes all up if you find the right way). The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows. Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="165">Willow Jungle Main Crag</text>
  <image id="166" height="348" width="500" src="willow jungle sketch map 2.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <climb id="167" name="French Lettuce" fa="Humzoo 1984." length="" grade="14" extra="" stars="" number="164.">Blocky corner on far L of causeway.</climb>
  <climb id="168" name="Psycho Sexual Mutilation" fa="Narkowicz 1984." length="" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="165.">Thin face with tree at half height.</climb>
  <climb id="169" name="Dolphins and Whales" fa="Ng 1990." length="10m" grade="24" extra="4Þ" stars="***" number="166.">The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit.</climb>
  <climb id="170" name="Dead Man Walking" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="10m" grade="25" extra="5Þ" stars="***" number="167.">The corner with 5 FH. Excellent and unlikely climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="171" name="Dogs, Dust and Diesel" fa="Narkowicz, 1982." length="10m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="**" number="168.">The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH.</climb>
  <climb id="172" name="Surf City" fa="Ng 1990." length="10m" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="**" number="169.">Up to the roof and on to the arete past 4 carrots.</climb>
  <climb id="173" name="I&apos;m Married to my Bulldog Mac" fa="Narkowicz 1984." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="170.">Crack to right of Surf City.</climb>
  <climb id="174" name="Shouldering On" fa="Narkowicz 1983." length="" grade="19" extra="" stars="" number="171.">Line up middle of smaller crag 20m right.</climb>
  <climb id="175" name="Wine List &amp; Snack Menu" fa="Ling 1983." length="" grade="19" extra="" stars="" number="172.">Right of Shouldering On.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="176">Mansion On the Hill</text>
  <text class="text" id="177">These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.</text>
  <climb id="178" name="Missing Josiah" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="10m" grade="22" extra="4Þ" stars="*" number="173.">On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="179" name="Never Going Back" fa="Narkowicz 1983." length="" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="174.">Follow crack out to arete, then up Missing Josiah.</climb>
  <climb id="180" name="Scales of Justice" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length="" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="175.">Narrowing chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="181" name="Gates of Hardened Steel" fa="Neale Smith, 1983." length="10m" grade="22" extra="" stars="*" number="176.">The thin crack in the shallow corner.</climb>
  <climb id="182" name="Sticky Willow" fa="McOwan, Wells, 1991." length="10m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" * " number="177.">A bouldery start to gain access to the thin crack.</climb>
  <climb id="183" name="Clandestine Filth" fa="McMahon 1983." length="8m" grade="18" extra="" stars="*" number="178.">The hand crack 2m left of Chuck It.</climb>
  <climb id="184" name="Chuck It on the Backburner With the Abbos and the Poofters" fa="McMahon 1983." length="8m" grade="16" extra="" stars="" number="179.">The corner.</climb>
  <climb id="185" name="Barbeque Boy" fa="Gerry Narkowicz  7 Dec 2004." length="10m" grade="22" extra="4Þ" stars="" number="180.">The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train.</climb>
  <climb id="186" name="Night Train" fa="Ng 1990&apos;s." length="8m" grade="23" extra="4Þ" stars="" number="181.">Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="187">The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.</text>
  <climb id="188" name="Those Morning After Blues#" length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="182.">The left hand crack from the same start as BOAT.</climb>
  <climb id="189" name="Bringing On a Thirst" fa="Narkowicz 1983." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="183.">Starts in the corner and then goes up the right crack.</climb>
  <climb id="190" name="Pussy Willow" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" stars="*" number="184.">The corner/crack with the chockstones.</climb>
  <climb id="191" name="Going to Horeb" fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="10m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="*" number="185.">Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="192" name="Summer Campaign" fa="McMahon 1983." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars="*" number="186.">Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="193">Fifth Estate</text>
  <text class="text" id="194">From the arrowhead rock cairn to Willow Jungle continue straight ahead following the other cairns for 50m 4 good looking sports routes and a few natural gear routes that look O.K</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="195">Aclai Del Lei</text>
  <text class="text" id="196">The climbing here is great. On a sunny winters day it's possible to climb in just a shirt. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;This cliff is reached from Columbus Drive: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection, turn right onto Bayview Drive. Hint: if you follow Bayview Dr to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei - this will help subsequent navigation but don't start the walk from Bayview; instead go up Columbus Dr. Three houses from the end (on the NE side of the street) is what looks like a vacant block. This is actually crown land and connects with a larger area of crown land between the houses and the Hydro Tasmania land that the cliff lies on. The route to the cliff is about 300m and was taped a few years ago (not sure if they are still there though). There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Northern Man. NB: In the past access was made via the track going NW from the very end of Columbus Drive - do not go that way as this is private property and the land-owner has asked that people don't trespass. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To find your way around first find Wasp Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there.</text>
  <image id="218" src="AclaiDelLeiAccessMap.PNG" height="587">
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  <climb id="197" name="Holy Roman Empire" fa="Narkowicz 1982." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars="" number="187.">Bridging steeply up face on left of crag.</climb>
  <climb id="198" name="Silicon Chip" fa="Neale Smith 1983." length="15m" grade="20" extra="" stars="" number="188.">Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places.</climb>
  <climb id="199" name="Parson&apos;s Arete" fa="Parsons 1982." length="17m" grade="22" extra="" stars="" number="189.">Right arete of main face with one bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="200" name="Northern Man" fa="Narkowicz 1982." length="19m" grade="20" extra="" stars="**" number="190.">Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. One FH near the finish; DDB at top.</climb>
  <climb id="201" name="Wasp Factory" fa="Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997." length="15m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="***" number="191.">Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="202">There is a set of rap chains on the wall at the top of White Fang.</text>
  <climb id="203" name="Margin Walker" fa="Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997." length="13m" grade="23" extra="2Þ" stars="*" number="192.">The arête with 3 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy (but not essential) once you gain the flake. Dangerous fall potenial between first and second BR.</climb>
  <climb id="204" name="White Fang" fa="Ng." length="13m" grade="22" extra="" stars="*" number="193.">Same start as MW but head right past 2 carrots to the right leading crack (good small cams). As with the route to its left, there is dangerous fall potenial between first and second BR.</climb>
  <climb id="205" name="Expecting To Fly" fa="Narkowicz 1982." length="12m" grade="20" extra="" stars="**" number="194.">This is the fun crack right of ITOM. Up the crack to the overlap then a tricky move left to gain the final crack. Both the climbing and the protection are good.</climb>
</guide>