Versions Compared


  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
  <header access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice." acknowledgement="" guide.action="submit""0""0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location." name="Little Bluestone Bay" rock="White granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5-30 mins" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <image id="129" src="little bluestone pano 2000.jpg" height="205" width="1000">
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="81853" height="56" width="70" x="98" y="91" text="Rubik&apos;s Cube"/>
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="21282" height="123" width="128" x="228" y="37" text="Alchemy"/>
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="98450" height="160" width="186" x="436" y="27" text="Second Ramp"/>
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="77429" height="160" width="342" x="633" y="27" text="First Ramp"/>
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="73610" height="22" width="60" x="52" y="63" text="Lego Area" arrowDirection="south"/>
  <text guide.action="submit""135""0" guide.type="text" id="3" class="heading3">Lego Area</text>
  <text guide.action="submit""136""0" guide.type="text" id="4" class="text">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""9""0" guide.type="climb" name="I See You Baby (Shakin&apos; that Ass)" id="9" extra="" grade="15" length="20m" number="1." stars="" fa="J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001.">50m left of Lego Buttress proper:The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""7""0" guide.type="climb" name="Demolition Darby" id="7" extra="" grade="18" length="10m" number="2." stars="" fa="P.Darby, Apr 1988.">Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""6""0" guide.type="climb" name="Lego" id="6" extra="" grade="21" length="25m" number="3." stars="*" fa="N.Deka, Apr 1988.">Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""5""0" guide.type="climb" name="King Constipator" id="5" extra="" grade="24" length="40m" number="4." stars="***" fa="N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.">Start at the hanging arête below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1. 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2. 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts.</climb>
  <text id="10" class="heading3">Rubik's Cube</text>
  <text id="11" class="text">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text>
  <text id="12" class="Discussion">The Orange Face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""13""0" guide.type="climb" name="Analysis, Statistics" id="13" extra="" grade="18" length="15m" number="5." stars="" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""14""0" guide.type="climb" name="Interval" id="14" extra="" grade="15" length="15m" number="6." stars="" fa="D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989.">Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top.</climb>
  <text id="15" class="Discussion">The Yellow Face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""16""0" guide.type="climb" name="The Horror" id="16" extra="" grade="20" length="8m" number="7." stars="" fa="J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989.">Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""17""0" guide.type="climb" name="Blinking Idiot" id="17" extra="" grade="24" length="8m" number="8." stars="*" fa="R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996.">The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top.</climb>
  <text id="18" class="Discussion">The Green Face: next right</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""19""0" guide.type="climb" name="Snakes, Ladders" id="19" extra="" grade="24" length="8m" number="9." stars="" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""20""0" guide.type="climb" name="Bill&apos;s Climb" id="20" extra="" grade="19" length="8m" number="10." stars="*" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Up steep hand crack starting in the corner.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""21""0" guide.type="climb" name="a+b" id="21" extra="" grade="15" length="8m" number="11." stars="" fa="D.Bruce, Mar 1989.">A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""22""0" guide.type="climb" name="Easy Solo" id="22" extra="" grade="12" length="8m" number="12." stars="" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."/>
  <climb guide.action="submit""23""0" guide.type="climb" name="Digit" id="23" extra="" grade="20" length="7m" number="13." stars="*" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""24""0" guide.type="climb" name="Spirit of Place" id="24" extra="" grade="21" length="6m" number="14." stars="**" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""25""0" guide.type="climb" name="Soft Grit" id="25" extra="" grade="21" length="6m" number="15." stars="*" fa="N. Selby, Apr 2001.">The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""26""0" guide.type="climb" name="Tangent" id="26" extra="" grade="16" length="6m" number="16." stars="" fa="N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish.</climb>
  <text id="27" class="Discussion">The Black Face: the next face right</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""28""0" guide.type="climb" name="Fractional" id="28" extra="" grade="21" length="12m" number="17." stars="" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""29""0" guide.type="climb" name="Pink Solo" id="29" extra="" grade="10" length="6m" number="18." stars="" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.">Easy face.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""30""0" guide.type="climb" name="Denominator" id="30" extra="" grade="15" length="6m" number="19." stars="" fa="N. Deka, Mar 1989.">Obvious arête about 5m left of Rhomboid.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""31""0" guide.type="climb" name="Rhomboid" id="31" extra="" grade="17" length="10m" number="20." stars="" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989.">The arête immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks.</climb>
  <climb name="Dynamo Hum" id="32" grade="22" length="10m" number="21." stars="" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989.">Climb the steep wall just right of the crack.</climb>
  <climb name="Left Crack" id="33" grade="22" length="10m" number="22." stars="" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989.">Climb the overhanging crack.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""34""0" guide.type="climb" name="Geometry" id="34" extra="" grade="17" length="10m" number="23." stars="" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""35""0" guide.type="climb" name="Hypothetical" id="35" extra="" grade="17" length="10m" number="24." stars="" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Up right arête. Take crack to top.</climb>
  <text id="36" class="Discussion">The Red Face: Again the next face right.</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""37""0" guide.type="climb" name="Roxanne&apos;s Corner" id="37" extra="" grade="8" length="12m" number="25." stars="" fa="Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989.">The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""38""0" guide.type="climb" name="D Squared + r" id="38" extra="" grade="15" length="12m" number="26." stars="" fa="D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989.">Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""39""0" guide.type="climb" name="Logarithm" id="39" extra="" grade="14" length="12m" number="27." stars="" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">The far right arête. Excellent crack climbing.</climb>
  <text id="40" class="text">Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay, with two bolted routes.</text>
  <climb name="Project" id="41" extra="Þ" grade="" length="8m" number="28." stars="">Project. Left line of bolts. S. Young</climb>
  <climb name="Low-Flyer" id="42" extra="Þ" grade="23" length="8m" number="29." stars="*" fa="S.Young 2006">Right line of bolts. Steep face climbing to lower-off.</climb>
  <image id="134" src="Mini Dyke.jpg" height="800" width="1200" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="7">
      <path id="76386" points="792,791, 787,525, 774,359, 736,72,lower" d="M792,791C790,684.6 789.7727317927369,591.545563025686 787,525C784.2272682072631,458.4544369743140345443697431404 781.4513115741437,425.18517927621735 774,359C766.5486884258563,292.8148207237826481482072378265 751.2,186.79999999999998 736,72" linkedTo="135"/>
  <climb name="NameMe" id="135" extra="3Þ" grade="20" length="10" number="30." stars="*" fa="Simon Young, Anna Johnstone 2007">Climb slab past 3 bolts to DBB</climb>
  <text id="43" class="heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text>
  <text id="44" class="description">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text>
  <image id="130" src="tetragrammatron.jpg" height="379" legend="true" legendTitle="Tetragrammaton" legendx="174" legendy="1">
      <path id="24437" points="95,293, 107,194, 119,157, 135,68,belay" d="M95,293C99.8,253.39999999999998 104.2960878454363,209.32216887586097 107,194C109.7039121545637,178.67783112413903 115.62479630244336,172.18841663900486 119,157C122.37520369755664,141.81158336099514 128.6,103.60000000000001 135,68" linkedTo="48"/>
      <path id="64040" points="158,290, 165,145, 168,84, 191,80, 214,59,belay" d="M158,290C160.8,232 163.81549722207177,169.4007572253215 165,145C166.18450277792823,120.5992427746784859924277467849 164.5319189445896,92.670202638526 168,84C171.4680810554104,75.329797361474 182.79532171787076,84.4590642837659 191,80C199.20467828212924,75.5409357162341 204.8,67.4 214,59" linkedTo="49"/>
      <path id="2640" points="193,284, 193,150, 214,60," d="M193,284C193,230.4 192.88815917785607,164.20378441227908 193,150C193.11184082214393,135.79621558772092 205.6,96 214,60" linkedTo="51"/>
      <path id="54383" points="224,318, 227,241, 226,207, 212,181, 193,151," d="M224,318C225.2,287.2 226.75488877385035,254.6036730513055 227,241C227.24511122614965,227.3963269486945 228.86479647157165,218.45918588628663 226,207C223.13520352842835,195.54081411371337 217.9967896736948,191.17637035536086 212,181C206.0032103263052,170.82362964463914 192.88815917785607,165.20378441227908 193,151" linkedTo="52"/>
      <path id="28946" points="3,282, 75,300," d="M3,282C31.8,289.2 46.2,292.8 75,300" lineStyle="dashed" arrow="true"/>
  <climb guide.action="submit""43""0" guide.type="climb" name="The Drivel Dies" id="46" extra="" grade="20" length="35m" number="31." stars="" fa="D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994.">To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top.</climb>
  <climb name="The Devil Drives" id="47" grade="21" length="40m" number="32." stars="" fa="E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.">To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""45""0" guide.type="climb" name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" id="48" extra="" grade="20" length="40m" number="33." stars="" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2. 15m. Continue straight up offwidth.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""46""0" guide.type="climb" name="The Little Red Hen" id="49" extra="" grade="22" length="40m" number="34." stars="*" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above.</climb>
  <climb name="Chicken Surprise" id="50" grade="22" length="12m" number="35." stars="" fa="Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.">A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""48""0" guide.type="climb" name="Tetragrammaton" id="51" extra="" grade="21" length="40m" number="36." stars="**" fa="J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1. 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2. 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""49""0" guide.type="climb" name="No More Mr Nice Guy" id="52" extra="" grade="19" length="25m" number="37." stars="***" fa="J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.">A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1. 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2. 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""50""0" guide.type="climb" name="Exocet" id="53" extra="" grade="26" length="48m" number="38." stars="***" fa="G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.">A total classic. &lt;br/&gt;1. 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continuebuild up corner to DBB. a gear belay at a comfortable stance in the corner (Original belay was a DBB)&lt;br/&gt;2. 18m 26. TheClimb the pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passingto a bolt (crux) to another DBB. DBB. (Note: Original had a bolt that protects the crux moves around the corner which has been removed. While the route is still adequately protected for the leader, a fall from the crux by the second will result in a massive swing into space and an obligatory prussic up the rope.&lt;br/&gt;3. 10m 17. TheFollow the nice hand andcrack offwidth to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Down Under" id="125" extra="" grade="25" length="18m" number="39." stars="***" fa="Garry Phillips and Alex Lewis way back in 2008 i think">From a small stance near the water climb out to reach the belay of Exocet.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""51""0" guide.type="climb" name="Edge of the World" id="54" extra="" grade="19" length="40m" number="40." stars="" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994.">This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose.</climb>
  <text id="55" class="heading3">Alchemy Wall</text>
  <text guide.action="submit""52""0" guide.type="text" id="56" class="text">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text>
  <text guide.action="submit""53""0" guide.type="text" id="57" class="text">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text>
  <image id="127" src="coles bay alchemy - new.jpg" height="635" legend="true" legendTitle="Alchemy Wall" legendx="7" legendy="7">
      <path id="93900" points="234,502, 236,453, 256,377, 282,313, 300,267, 318,242, 328,225, 332,183," d="M234,502C234.8,482.4 232.59978857927476,472.3193830723025 236,453C239.40021142072524,433.6806169276975 247.37462225300712,403.251149664761 256,377C264.6253777469929,350.748850335239 274.66186155335913,331.3453461166022 282,313C289.33813844664087,294.6546538833978 294.4274529403326,277.99030114545513 300,267C305.5725470596674,256.0096988545448600969885454487 313.62384081290804,248.5642387806379 318,242C322.3761591870919537615918709196,235.4357612193621 326.4527940816277545279408162776,232.73602959186132 328,225C329.54720591837224,217.2639704081386726397040813868 330.4,199.8 332,183" linkedTo="64"/>
      <path id="71675" points="353,488, 365,414, 375,373, 386,288, 394,254, 407,221," d="M353,488C357.8,458.4 361.82815655292944,430.5800907460507 365,414C368.1718434470705517184344707056,397.4199092539493 372.2248204343463,389.6510773939219 375,373C377.7751795656537,356.3489226060781 383.7971735050476,301.7966501525963 386,288C388.2028264949524,274.2033498474037 389.82135245148882135245148794,267.33187551191935 394,254C398.17864754851217864754851206,240.66812448808068 401.8,234.2 407,221" linkedTo="69"/>
      <path id="25762" points="317,487, 338,405, 352,329, 363,258, 384,194," d="M317,487C325.4,454.2 331.3145833693899,435.1798807896115 338,405C344.6854166306101,374.8201192103885 347.18162940906683,357.332019074687 352,329C356.81837059093317,300.667980925313 358.2217983492058,275.71916445502853 363,258C367.7782016507942,240.28083554497144 375.6,219.6 384,194" linkedTo="68"/>
      <path id="56620" points="297,493, 312,423, 333,333, 345,284, 343,260, 345,220, 348,180," d="M297,493C303,465 305.7141273380738,450.9372118307831 312,423C318.2858726619262,395.0627881692169 329.4518711875767,345.7581653042454375816530424544 333,333C336.5481288124233,320.24183469575456 343.692583181837,293.54414277259013 345,284C346.307416818163,274.4558572274098645585722740987 343,269.6332756630338 343,260C343,250.36672433696617 344.0007006345494400070063454945,235.9887898472089 345,220C345.99929936545055,204.0112101527911 347.0114533822694,196.01445520723615 348,180" linkedTo="66"/>
      <path id="26116" points="333,332, 347,302, 363,259," d="M333,332C336.5481288124233,319.24183469575456 341.9664155687342,314.2483887827468 347,302C352.0335844312658,289.7516112172532 358.2217983492058,276.71916445502853 363,259" linkedTo="67"/>
      <path id="97816" points="258,499, 278,415, 297,319, 322,278," d="M258,499C266,465.4 270.6861975674197,448.75601122729375 278,415C285.3138024325803,381.2439887727062424398877270625 291.1263954731657512639547316576,337.2882686403703 297,319C302.87360452683424,300.7117313596297 315.8520668151402,296.1978822271851 322,278" linkedTo="65"/>
      <path id="7121" points="280,495, 291,444, 300,396, 313,329, 323,277, 338,222, 340,181," d="M280,495C284.4,474.6 287.131765402907,463.14776125561036 291,444C294.868234597093,424.8522387443896385223874438964 296.3295105880605,415.18664919877466 300,396C303.6704894119395,376.81335080122534 308.9805564463972,349.7962514295101 313,329C317.0194435536028,308.2037485704899 316.8520668151402,295.1978822271851 323,277C329.1479331848598,258.8021177728149 336.4527940816277545279408162776,229.73602959186132 338,222C339.54720591837224,214.2639704081386726397040813868 339.0114533822694,197.01445520723615 340,181" linkedTo="126"/>
      <path id="63747" points="255,382, 257,311, 258,257, 273,202," d="M255,382C255.8,353.6 256.48166037905105,332.59748420620684 257,311C257.51833962094895,289.4025157937931540251579379316 254.86243658330423,278.3746507762399 258,257C261.13756341669574,235.6253492237601 269.8303261546133,213.9076936353717 273,202" linkedTo="63"/>
      <path id="80454" points="281,317, 282,261, 286,202," d="M281,317C281.4,294.6 281.026851055632,283.3824257204637 282,261C282.973148944368,238.6175742795362861757427953629 282.8303261546133,213.9076936353717 286,202" linkedTo="128"/>
      <path id="27600" points="225,436, 230,366, 236,310, 243,258, 254,226, 272,201," d="M225,436C227,408 228.04070426365513,388.4428420708595 230,366C231.95929573634487,343.5571579291405 233.4918181716962,330.837202881293 236,310C238.5081818283038,289.162797118707 240.16399456466172,271.2346920315787 243,258C245.83600543533828,244.7653079684213276530796842133 248.4123468279912,236.9826286484311 254,226C259.5876531720088,215.0173713515689 268.8303261546133,212.9076936353717 272,201" linkedTo="62"/>
      <path id="22490" points="708,212, 698,148, 695,93, 694,59, 724,6," d="M708,212C704,186.4 700.3926988268906,169.90239695384494 698,148C695.6073011731094,126.09760304615506 695.6108836083212,106.5921602851454259216028514543 695,93C694.3891163916788,79.40783971485457 689.6974426209521,71.90767213714386 694,59C698.3025573790479,46.09232786285614 712,27.200000000000003 724,6" linkedTo="72"/>
      <path id="3440" points="743,224, 763,117, 784,44, 793,8," d="M743,224C751,181.2 756.2519919814844,146.6254010568979 763,117C769.7480080185156,87.3745989431020837459894310209 780.061183044631,58.31103493784072 784,44C787.938816955369,29.688965062159283688965062159284 789.4,22.4 793,8" linkedTo="73"/>
      <path id="69521" points="784,245, 799,153, 821,71, 831,20," d="M784,245C790,208.2 791.9365552191201,186.2172808614350821728086143509 799,153C806.0634447808799,119.78271913856491 816.1370416165913,91.2116707810422121167078104222 821,71C825.8629583834087,50.788329218957784 827,40.4 831,20" linkedTo="74"/>
      <path id="72430" points="46,412, 55,374, 64,322," d="M46,412C49.6,396.8 51.93656803819387,389.31715980903067 55,374C58.06343196180613,358.68284019096933 60.4,342.8 64,322" linkedTo="42"/>
  <climb guide.action="submit""55""0" guide.type="climb" name="Monte Carlo" id="59" extra="" grade="18" length="17m" number="41." stars="" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""56""0" guide.type="climb" name="Evelyn&apos;s Climb" id="60" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" number="42." stars="" fa="Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982.">The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""57""0" guide.type="climb" name="Coolibah Crack" id="61" extra="" grade="19" length="20m" number="43." stars="**" fa="J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981.">The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""58""0" guide.type="climb" name="Immaculate Misconception" id="62" extra="" grade="25" length="20m" number="44." stars="***" fa="N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001.">The arête right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arête to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arête to the top.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""58""0" guide.type="climb" name="Hermes Trismegistus" id="64" extra="" grade="21" length="27m" number="45." stars="**" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any.</climb>
  <climb name="Hermes Playmate" id="63" extra="" grade="22" length="20m" number="46." stars="*" fa="Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 1995.">Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam.</climb>
  <climb name="Hermes Direct Finish" id="128" extra="" grade="23" length="25m" number="47." stars="**" fa="Alex Lewis Aug 2013">Climb Hermes to two-thirds height then head direct up the blocky corner (crux) and thin crack above</climb>
  <climb name="Captivating Passions" id="65" extra="" grade="25" length="20m" number="48." stars="*" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999.">Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree).</climb>
  <climb name="Ockham&apos;s Razor" id="126" extra="" grade="27" length="20m" number="49." stars="**" fa="Simon Bischoff, August 2013">Pure slab in the middle of alchemy wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams to climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place # 3 Camalot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.</climb>
  <climb name="Walking the Plank Direct Finish" id="66" extra="" grade="22" length="18m" number="50." stars="**" fa="G. Phillips &amp; J. Bresnehan Sep 2007.">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""62""0" guide.type="climb" name="Walking the Plank" id="67" extra="" grade="19" length="25m" number="51." stars="**" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.">The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde.</climb>
  <climb name="Blue-eyed Blonde" id="68" extra="" grade="19" length="25m" number="52." stars="***" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.">Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""63""0" guide.type="climb" name="Alchemy" id="69" extra="" grade="21" length="25m" number="53." stars="***" fa="John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 1981.">The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack.</climb>
  <text id="70" class="heading3">Alchemy Ramp</text>
  <text id="71" class="Discussion">The next climbs are located on the ramp above Alchemy Wall.</text>
  <climb name="Fools Gold" id="72" extra="" grade="15" length="10m" number="54." stars="" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Exquisite Tenderness" id="73" extra="5Þ" grade="28" length="15m" number="55." stars="*" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999.">The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold.</climb>
  <climb name="L&apos;Obsession" id="74" extra="5Þ" grade="22" length="20m" number="56." stars="**" fa="N.Selby  7 Jun 2003.">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Silver and Gold" id="75" extra="" grade="16" length="14m" number="57." stars="" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson &amp; E.Bradley Jan 2001.">About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arête. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Haliaeetus Leucogaster" id="76" extra="" grade="17" length="12m" number="58." stars="" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson &amp; E.Bradley Jan 2001.">Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top.</climb>
  <text id="77" class="heading3">Second Ramp</text>
  <text id="78" class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text>
  <climb name="Struck Off " id="79" extra="" grade="24" length="10m" number="59." stars="" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Norm Selby Mar 2003.">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top.</climb>
  <climb name="Dodgy Ringpulls" id="80" grade="18" length="12m" number="60." stars="" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.">Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Double Deka" id="81" grade="12" length="15m" number="61." stars="" fa="Nick Deka solo.">About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker.</climb>
  <climb name="Firewalker" id="82" grade="15" length="16m" number="62." stars="" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981.">The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab.</climb>
  <climb name="Ogma Sun Face" id="83" grade="19" length="15m" number="63." stars="***" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab.</climb>
  <climb name="Steel Springs" id="84" grade="17" length="15m" number="64." stars="**" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Curious Fanatic" id="85" grade="22" length="15m" number="65." stars="**" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks.</climb>
  <climb name="First in First Served" id="86" grade="21" length="10m" number="66." stars="*" fa="Robert McMahon, Mar 1989.">About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Easy Corner" id="87" grade="10" length="10m" number="67." stars="" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981.">The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea.</climb>
  <text id="88" class="Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text>
  <climb name="Mathonwy" id="89" grade="12" length="15m" number="68." stars="" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later.</climb>
  <climb name="Doesn&apos;t Matter" id="90" grade="12" length="15m" number="69." stars="" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above.</climb>
  <text id="91" class="heading3">First Ramp</text>
  <text id="92" class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text>
  <climb name="Bearded Clam Corner" id="93" grade="18" length="10m" number="70." stars="*" fa="Neale Smith, 1981.">The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""86""0" guide.type="climb" name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" id="94" extra="" grade="22" length="10m" number="71." stars="*" fa="R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.">The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Triptolemus" id="95" grade="17" length="10m" number="72." stars="" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981.">Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""88""0" guide.type="climb" name="Velchanos (Demon)" id="96" extra="" grade="17" length="22m" number="73." stars="" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981.">Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained.</climb>
  <climb name="Whinging Poms" id="97" grade="17" length="22m" number="74." stars="" fa="D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 1990.">The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose).</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""90""0" guide.type="climb" name="Feed the Man Meat" id="98" extra="" grade="17" length="23m" number="75." stars="" fa="Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 1989.">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Taliesin" id="99" grade="16" length="22m" number="76." stars="" fa="Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""92""0" guide.type="climb" name="Ygdrassill" id="100" extra="" grade="17" length="15m" number="77." stars="" fa="Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 1981.">On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Furless" id="101" extra="" grade="17" length="15m" number="78." stars="" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.">To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face.</climb>
  <text id="102" class="heading3">Travel Land - Upper Tier</text>
  <text id="103" class="description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text>
  <image id="131" src="Travel Land.jpg" height="800" width="1200" legend="true" legendTitle="Travel Land">
      <path id="66883" points="127,781, 122,491, 175,376, 265,229, 273,196,lower" d="M127,781C124.9999999999999899999999999999,665 116.03873840598997,541.2981446994596 122,491C127.9612615940100296126159401003,440.70185530054033 150.734168537045587341685370456,420.4590758272312 175,376C199.265831462954422658314629544,331.5409241727688 258.5053553226669,240.92893920326486 265,229C271.4946446773331,217.07106079673514 269.8,209.2 273,196" linkedTo="104"/>
      <path id="60533" points="451,771, 598,123," d="M451,771C509.79999999999995,511.79999999999995 539.2,382.2000000000000420000000000005 598,123" linkedTo="105"/>
      <path id="55581" points="969,735, 953,447, 994,367, 915,108, 898,35, 896,19, 928,11,lower" d="M969,735C962.6,619.8 961.1747359656987,482.0161918530715 953,447C944.8252640343013,411.9838081469285 998.0055757984221,402.73395251750213 994,367C989.9944242015779,331.2660474824978626604748249787 923.3281242214292,136.8014295991092 915,108C906.6718757785708,79.19857040089079 897.3750965939655,41.41946226199099 898,35C898.6249034060345,28.580537738009013580537738009014 895.3750965939655,25.419462261990986 896,19C896.6249034060345,12.580537738009013580537738009014 938.1678459443824,19.408026454008507 928,11" linkedTo="107"/>
      <path id="72295" points="1073,680, 1081,447, 1073,251, 1058,155, 1013,45, 929,10," d="M1073,680C1076.2,586.8 1081,525.465278945531 1081,447C1081,368.5347210544689453472105446895 1076.0519042143792,289.745914373857 1073,251C1069.9480957856208,212.25408562614305 1068.8685460503584,192.31534143956395 1058,155C1047.13145394964151314539496416,117.68465856043605 1037.19448281034641944828103465,72.19534889535066 1013,45C988.8055171896535,17.804651104649345 939.1678459443824,18.408026454008507 929,10" linkedTo="108"/>
      <path id="73449" points="953,447, 801,271,label 757,164, 745,27,lower" d="M953,447C944.8252640343013,411.9838081469285 827.3485616972657,309.0440967363582 801,271C774.6514383027343,232.9559032636418 767.3519086039088,209.1047446313169710474463131698 757,164C746.6480913960912,118.89525536868302 749.8,81.80000000000001 745,27" linkedTo="106"/>
  <climb name="Wild Willy" id="104" extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" number="79." stars="*" fa="G Phillips, May 2003.">The overhanging arête left of Hugs n Kisses.</climb>
  <climb guide.action="submit""96""0" guide.type="climb" name="Hugs &apos;n&apos; Kisses" id="105" extra="" grade="23" length="12m" number="80." stars="" fa="Jay Audenart, 1998.">Off-width.</climb>
  <climb name="Red Line" id="106" extra="Þ" grade="27" length="8m" number="81." stars="*" fa="G Phillips, Feb 2003.">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face.</climb>
  <climb name="Tribute" id="107" extra="5Þ" grade="22" length="15m" number="82." stars="**" fa="N.Selby 12 Oct 2002">Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Ekeko" id="108" extra="5Þ" grade="21" length="14m" number="83." stars="*" fa="N.Selby, 25 Aug 2002">Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="The Path of the Enigma" id="109" extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="12m" number="84." stars="" fa="N.Selby, 12 Oct 2002">Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Panchamama" id="110" grade="16" length="12m" number="85." stars="" fa="N.Selby, C.Walker, E.Bradley, A.Williams">Off-width. Good fun.</climb>
  <text id="133" class="heading3">Travel Land - Lower Tier</text>
  <text id="111" class="Discussion">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text>
  <climb guide.action="submit""103""0" guide.type="climb" name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" id="112" extra="3Þ" grade="23" length="10m" number="86." stars="" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="501 Bodega" id="113" extra="" grade="22" length="10m" number="87." stars="" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">The arête with 2 u-bolts plus gear.</climb>
  <climb name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus" id="114" grade="21" length="10m" number="88." stars="" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt.</climb>
  <climb name="Natural Athlete in a Barrel" id="115" extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="15m" number="89." stars="**" fa="Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke &amp; Duncan MacGregor Dec 2008.">The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <text id="116" class="heading3">Sentry Box</text>
  <text id="117" class="text">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text>
  <climb name="Sentry Box" id="118" extra="" grade="19" length="15m" number="90." stars="*" fa="F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.">On the left hand arête at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arête with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams.</climb>
  <climb name="The Sentinel" id="124" grade="21" length="15m" number="91." fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst, Nov 1997.">Start as for Sentry Box. Climb the Sentry Box, continuing straight up the arête (crux), where Sentry Box escapes right (RPs).</climb>
  <climb name="Fridge Magnet" id="119" extra="4Þ" grade="26" length="10m" number="92." stars="**" fa="Nick Hancock Nov 2004.">Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off.</climb>
  <climb name="Rainbow Groove" id="120" extra="" grade="21" length="15m" number="93." stars="" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst.">The slim groove on the left arête. Protected by RP's.</climb>
  <climb name="Shogun" id="121" extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" number="94." stars="*" fa="N Selby  28 Dec 2003.">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb.</climb>
  <text id="122" class="Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text>
  <climb name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust" id="123" grade="19" length="40m" number="95." stars="" fa="P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 1988.">Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height.</climb>