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Guide
<guide version="3" pagesize="500">
  <header name="Little Bluestone Bay" id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="5-30 mins" sun="Morning sun" rock="White granite, 10-25m" intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location." history="" acknowledgement="" access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice." id="1" guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit"/>
  <image heightid="205129" widthheight="1000205" id="129" src="little bluestone pano 2000.jpg" width="1000">
    <drawing>
      <rect heightstyle="56yellow_outline" widthid="7081853" styleheight="yellow_outline56" idwidth="8185370" x="98" y="91" text="Rubik&apos;s Cube"/>
      <rect heightstyle="123yellow_outline" widthid="12821282" styleheight="yellow_outline123" idwidth="21282128" x="228" y="37" text="Alchemy"/>
      <rect heightstyle="160yellow_outline" widthid="18698450" styleheight="yellow_outline160" idwidth="98450186" x="436" y="27" text="Second Ramp"/>
      <rect heightstyle="160yellow_outline" widthid="34277429" styleheight="yellow_outline160" idwidth="77429342" x="633" y="27" text="First Ramp"/>
      <rect heightstyle="22yellow_outline" widthid="6073610" styleheight="yellow_outline22" idwidth="7361060" x="52" y="63" text="Lego Area" arrowDirection="south"/>
    </drawing>
  </image>
  <text classid="heading33" idclass="3heading3" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="135" guide.action="submit">Lego Area</text>
  <text classid="text4" idclass="4text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="136" guide.action="submit">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.</text>
  <climb name="I See You Baby (Shakin&apos; that Ass)" id="9" fa="J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001." gradestars="15" length="20m" number="1." extralength="20m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">50m left of Lego Buttress proper:The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress.</climb>
  <climb name="Demolition Darby" id="7" fa="P.Darby, Apr 1988." gradestars="18" length="10m" number="2." extralength="10m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="7" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp.</climb>
  <climb name="Lego" id="6" fa="N.Nic Deka, Apr 1988." gradestars="21*" length="25m" number="3." extralength="25m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="6" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it.</climb>
  <climb name="King Constipator" id="5" fa="N.Nick Hancock, A. &amp; Andrew Bissett (alt), Aug 2001." gradestars="24**" length="40m" number="4." extralength="40m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="5" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">Start at the hanging arête below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1. 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2. 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts.</climb>
  <text classid="heading310" idclass="10heading3">Rubik's Cube</text>
  <text classid="text11" idclass="11text">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text>
  <text classid="Discussion12" idclass="12Discussion">The Orange Face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text>
  <climb name="Analysis, Statistics" id="13" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." gradestars="18" length="15m" number="5." extralength="15m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="13" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end.</climb>
  <climb name="Interval" id="14" fa="D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989." gradestars="15" length="15m" number="6." extralength="15m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="14" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion15" idclass="15Discussion">The Yellow Face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text>
  <climb name="The Horror" id="16" fa="J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989." gradestars="20" length="8m" number="7." extralength="8m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="16" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Blinking Idiot" id="17" fa="R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996." gradestars="24*" length="8m" number="8." extralength="8m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="17" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion18" idclass="18Discussion">The Green Face: next right</text>
  <climb name="Snakes, Ladders" id="19" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." gradestars="24" length="8m" number="9." extralength="8m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="19" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect.</climb>
  <climb name="Bill&apos;s Climb" id="20" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." gradestars="19*" length="8m" number="10." extralength="8m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="20" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">Up steep hand crack starting in the corner.</climb>
  <climb name="a+b" id="21" fa="D.Bruce, Mar 1989." gradestars="15" length="8m" number="11." extralength="8m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="21" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected.</climb>
  <climb name="Easy Solo" id="22" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989." gradestars="12" length="8m" number="12." extralength="8m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="22" guide.action="submit" grade="12" extra=""/>
  <climb name="Digit" id="23" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." gradestars="20*" length="7m" number="13." extralength="7m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="23" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb.</climb>
  <climb name="Spirit of Place" id="24" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." gradestars="21**" length="6m" number="14." extralength="6m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="24" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves.</climb>
  <climb name="Soft Grit" id="25" fa="N. Selby, Apr 2001." gradestars="21*" length="6m" number="15." extralength="6m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="25" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Tangent" id="26" fa="N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." gradestars="16" length="6m" number="16." extralength="6m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="26" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion27" idclass="27Discussion">The Black Face: the next face right</text>
  <climb name="Fractional" id="28" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989." gradestars="21" length="12m" number="17." extralength="12m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="28" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above.</climb>
  <climb name="Pink Solo" id="29" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989." gradestars="10" length="6m" number="18." extralength="6m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="29" guide.action="submit" grade="10" extra="">Easy face.</climb>
  <climb name="Denominator" id="30" fa="N. Deka, Mar 1989." gradestars="15" length="6m" number="19." extralength="6m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="30" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Obvious arête about 5m left of Rhomboid.</climb>
  <climb name="Rhomboid" id="31" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989." gradestars="17" length="10m" number="20." extralength="10m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="31" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The arête immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks.</climb>
  <climb name="Dynamo Hum" id="32" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989." gradestars="22" lengthnumber="10m21." numberlength="21.10m" starsgrade="22">Climb the steep wall just right of the crack.</climb>
  <climb name="Left Crack" id="33" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989." gradestars="" number="22." length="10m" numbergrade="22." stars="">Climb the overhanging crack.</climb>
  <climb name="Geometry" id="34" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." gradestars="17" length="10m" number="23." extralength="10m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="34" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start.</climb>
  <climb name="Hypothetical" id="35" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." gradestars="17" length="10m" number="24." extralength="10m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="35" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Up right arête. Take crack to top.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion36" idclass="36Discussion">The Red Face: Again the next face right.</text>
  <climb name="Roxanne&apos;s Corner" id="37" fa="Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989." gradestars="8" length="12m" number="25." extralength="12m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" grade="8" extra="">The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face.</climb>
  <climb name="D Squared + r" id="38" fa="D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989." gradestars="15" length="12m" number="26." extralength="12m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="38" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Logarithm" id="39" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." gradestars="14" length="12m" number="27." extralength="12m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="39" guide.action="submit" grade="14" extra="">The far right arête. Excellent crack climbing.</climb>
  <text classid="text40" idclass="40text">Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay, with two bolted routes.</text>
  <climb name="Project" id="41" gradestars="" number="28." length="8m" numbergrade="28." extra="Þ" stars="">Project. Left line of bolts. S. Young</climb>
  <climb name="Low-Flyer" id="42" fa="S.Young 2006" gradestars="23*" number="29." length="8m" numbergrade="29.23" extra="Þ" stars="*">Right line of bolts. Steep face climbing to lower-off.</climb>
  <image heightid="800134" widthheight="1200800" idsrc="134Mini Dyke.jpg" legendy="7" legendx="5" legend="true" srcwidth="Mini Dyke.jpg1200">
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      <path id="76386" linkedTo="135" d="M792.0,791.0C790.0,684.6 789.8,591.5 787.0,525.0C784.2,458.5 781.5,425.2 774.0,359.0C766.5,292.8 751.2,186.8 736.0,72.0" points="792,791, 787,525, 774,359, 736,72,lower"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>135</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="NameMe" id="135" fa="Simon Young, Anna Johnstone 2007" gradestars="20*" number="30." length="10" numbergrade="30.20" extra="3Þ" stars="*">Climb slab past 3 bolts to DBB</climb>
  <text classid="heading343" idclass="43heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text>
  <text classid="description44" idclass="44description">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text>
  <image id="130" height="379" idsrc="130tetragrammatron.jpg" legendTitle="Tetragrammaton" legendy="1" legendx="174" legendTitle="Tetragrammaton" legend="true" src="tetragrammatron.jpg">
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      <path id="24437" linkedTo="48" d="M95.0,293.0C99.8,253.4 104.3,209.3 107.0,194.0C109.7,178.7 115.6,172.2 119.0,157.0C122.4,141.8 128.6,103.6 135.0,68.0" points="95,293, 107,194, 119,157, 135,68,belay"/>
      <path id="64040" linkedTo="49" d="M158.0,290.0C160.8,232.0 163.8,169.4 165.0,145.0C166.2,120.6 164.5,92.7 168.0,84.0C171.5,75.3 182.8,84.5 191.0,80.0C199.2,75.5 204.8,67.4 214.0,59.0" points="158,290, 165,145, 168,84, 191,80, 214,59,belay"/>
      <path id="2640" linkedTo="51" d="M193.0,284.0C193.0,230.4 192.9,164.2 193.0,150.0C193.1,135.8 205.6,96.0 214.0,60.0" points="193,284, 193,150, 214,60,"/>
      <path id="54383" linkedTo="52" d="M224.0,318.0C225.2,287.2 226.8,254.6 227.0,241.0C227.2,227.4 228.9,218.5 226.0,207.0C223.1,195.5 218.0,191.2 212.0,181.0C206.0,170.8 192.9,165.2 193.0,151.0" points="224,318, 227,241, 226,207, 212,181, 193,151,"/>
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    <legend>
      <climb>48</climb>
      <climb>49</climb>
      <climb>51</climb>
      <climb>52</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="The Drivel Dies" id="46" fa="D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994." gradestars="20" length="35m" number="31." extralength="35m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="43" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. Good climbing on excellent rock for the first half of the route.</climb>
  <climb name="The Devil Drives" id="47" fa="E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982." gradestars="21" lengthnumber="40m32." numberlength="32.40m" starsgrade="21">To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf.</climb>
  <climb name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" id="48" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981." gradestars="20**" length="40m" number="33." extralength="40m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="45" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m.&lt;br/&gt;1 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Continue straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="The Little Red Hen" id="49" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981." gradestars="22*" length="40m" number="34." extralength="40m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="46" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above.</climb>
  <climb name="Chicken Surprise" id="50" fa="Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996." gradestars="22" lengthnumber="12m35." numberlength="35.12m" starsgrade="22">A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up.</climb>
  <climb name="Tetragrammaton" id="51" fa="J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981." gradestars="20**" length="40m" number="36." extralength="40m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="48" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here.&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top.</climb>
  <climb name="No More Mr Nice Guy" id="52" fa="J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994." gradestars="19***" length="25m" number="37." extralength="25m" stars="***" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">A great route, varied climbing, one of the best at the grade.&lt;br/&gt;Easiest access via fixing a rope from trees and rapping in or scramble in from sea level.&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb crack for 18m. Follow left trending crack (crux) to hand traverse left. Follow hand crack up to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;Easiest way off is to climb the second pitch of Tetragrammaton (grade 20) or rap your fix line back down to sea level and walk out.</climb>
  <climb name="Exocet" id="53" fa="G. Phillips and S.Young 2007." gradestars="26***" length="48m" number="38." extralength="48m" stars="***" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="50" guide.action="submit" grade="26" extra="">A total classic.&lt;br/&gt;1. 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then build a gear belay at a comfortable stance in the corner (Original belay was a DBB)&lt;br/&gt;2. 18m 26. Climb the pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner to a DBB. (Note: Original had a bolt that protects the crux moves around the corner which has been removed. While the route is still adequately protected for the leader, a fall from the crux by the second will result in a massive swing into space and an obligatory prussic up the rope.&lt;br/&gt;3. 10m 17. Follow the nice hand crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Down Under" id="125" fa="Garry Phillips and Alex Lewis way back in 2008 i think" gradestars="25***" lengthnumber="18m39." numberlength="39.18m" extragrade="25" starsextra="***">From a small stance near the water climb out to reach the belay of Exocet.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Edge of the World" id="54" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994." gradestars="19" length="40m" number="40." extralength="40m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="51" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose.</climb>
  <text classid="heading355" idclass="55heading3">Alchemy Wall</text>
  <text classid="text56" idclass="56text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="52" guide.action="submit">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text>
  <text classid="text57" idclass="57text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="53" guide.action="submit">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text>
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>22</climb>
      <climb>135</climb>
      <climb>62</climb>
      <climb>64</climb>
      <climb>63</climb>
      <climb>128</climb>
      <climb>65</climb>
      <climb>126</climb>
      <climb>66</climb>
      <climb>67</climb>
      <climb>68</climb>
      <climb>69</climb>
      <climb>72</climb>
      <climb>73</climb>
      <climb>74</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Monte Carlo" id="59" fa="J.John Fantini, N.Neale Smith, Nov 1981." gradestars="18" length="17m" number="41." extralength="17m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="55" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Evelyn&apos;s Climb" id="60" fa="Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982." gradestars="20" length="15m" number="42." extralength="15m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="56" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing.</climb>
  <climb name="Coolibah Crack" id="61" fa="J.John Fantini, R.Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="19**" length="20m" number="43." extralength="20m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="57" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face.</climb>
  <climb name="Immaculate Misconception" id="62" fa="N.Nick Hancock, A.Andrew Bissett, Aug 2001." gradestars="25***" length="20m" number="44." extralength="20m" stars="***" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="58" guide.action="submit" grade="25" extra="">The arête right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arête to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arête to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Hermes Trismegistus" id="64" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="21**" length="27m" number="45." extralength="27m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="58" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any.</climb>
  <climb name="Hermes Playmate" id="63" fa="Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 1995." gradestars="22*" lengthnumber="20m46." numberlength="46.20m" extragrade="22" starsextra="*">Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam.</climb>
  <climb name="Hermes Direct Finish" id="128" fa="Alex Lewis Aug 2013" gradestars="23**" lengthnumber="25m47." numberlength="47.25m" extragrade="23" starsextra="**">Climb Hermes to two-thirds height then head direct up the blocky corner (crux) and thin crack above</climb>
  <climb name="Captivating Passions" id="65" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999." gradestars="25*" lengthnumber="20m48." numberlength="48.20m" extragrade="25" starsextra="*">Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree).</climb>
  <climb name="Ockham&apos;s Razor" id="126" fa="Simon Bischoff, August 2013" gradestars="27**" lengthnumber="20m49." numberlength="49.20m" extragrade="27" starsextra="**">Pure slab in the middle of alchemy wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams to climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place # 3 Camalot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.</climb>
  <climb name="Walking the Plank Direct Finish" id="66" fa="G.Garry Phillips &amp; J.Jake Bresnehan Sep 2007." gradestars="22**" lengthnumber="18m50." numberlength="50.18m" extragrade="22" starsextra="**">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Walking the Plank" id="67" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981." gradestars="19**" length="25m" number="51." extralength="25m" stars="**" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="62" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde.</climb>
  <climb name="Blue-eyed Blonde" id="68" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981." gradestars="19***" lengthnumber="25m52." numberlength="52.25m" extragrade="19" starsextra="***">Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro.</climb>
  <climb name="Alchemy" id="69" fa="John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 1981." gradestars="21***" length="25m" number="53." extralength="25m" stars="***" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="63" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack.</climb>
  <text classid="heading370" idclass="70heading3">Alchemy Ramp</text>
  <text classid="Discussion71" idclass="71Discussion">The next climbs are located on the ramp above Alchemy Wall.</text>
  <climb name="Fools Gold" id="72" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." gradestars="15" lengthnumber="10m54." numberlength="54.10m" extragrade="15" starsextra="">A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Exquisite Tenderness" id="73" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999." gradestars="28*" number="55." length="15m" numbergrade="55.28" extra="5Þ" stars="*">The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold.</climb>
  <climb name="L&apos;Obsession" id="74" fa="N.Norm Selby  7 Jun 2003." gradestars="22*" number="56." length="20m" numbergrade="56.22" extra="5Þ" stars="*">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Silver and Gold" id="75" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson &amp; E.Bradley Jan 2001." gradestars="16" lengthnumber="14m57." numberlength="57.14m" extragrade="16" starsextra="">About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arête. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Haliaeetus Leucogaster" id="76" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson &amp; E.Bradley Jan 2001." gradestars="17" lengthnumber="12m58." numberlength="58.12m" extragrade="17" starsextra="">Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top.</climb>
  <text classid="heading377" idclass="77heading3">Second Ramp</text>
  <text classid="description78" idclass="78description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text>
  <climb name="Struck Off " id="79" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Norm Selby Mar 2003." gradestars="24" lengthnumber="10m59." numberlength="59.10m" extragrade="24" starsextra="">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top.</climb>
  <climb name="Dodgy Ringpulls" id="80" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997." gradestars="18" lengthnumber="12m60." numberlength="60.12m" starsgrade="18">Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Double Deka" id="81" fa="Nick Deka solo." gradestars="12" lengthnumber="15m61." numberlength="61.15m" starsgrade="12">About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker.</climb>
  <climb name="Firewalker" id="82" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981." gradestars="15" lengthnumber="16m62." numberlength="62.16m" starsgrade="15">The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab.</climb>
  <climb name="Ogma Sun Face" id="83" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="19***" lengthnumber="15m63." numberlength="63.15m" starsgrade="***19">The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab.</climb>
  <climb name="Steel Springs" id="84" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." gradestars="17**" lengthnumber="15m64." numberlength="64.15m" starsgrade="**17">Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Curious Fanatic" id="85" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="22**" lengthnumber="15m65." numberlength="65.15m" starsgrade="**22">On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks.</climb>
  <climb name="First in First Served" id="86" fa="Robert McMahon, Mar 1989." gradestars="21*" lengthnumber="10m66." numberlength="66.10m" starsgrade="*21">About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Easy Corner" id="87" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981." gradestars="10" lengthnumber="10m67." numberlength="67.10m" starsgrade="10">The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion88" idclass="88Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text>
  <climb name="Mathonwy" id="89" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="12" lengthnumber="15m68." numberlength="68.15m" starsgrade="12">A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later.</climb>
  <climb name="Doesn&apos;t Matter" id="90" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="12" lengthnumber="15m69." numberlength="69.15m" starsgrade="12">Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above.</climb>
  <text classid="heading391" idclass="91heading3">First Ramp</text>
  <text classid="description92" idclass="92description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text>
  <climb name="Bearded Clam Corner" id="93" fa="Neale Smith, 1981." gradestars="18*" lengthnumber="10m70." numberlength="70.10m" starsgrade="*18">The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" id="94" fa="R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989." gradestars="22*" length="10m" number="71." extralength="10m" stars="*" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="86" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Triptolemus" id="95" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="17" lengthnumber="10m72." numberlength="72.10m" starsgrade="17">Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing.</climb>
  <climb name="Velchanos (Demon)" id="96" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981." gradestars="17" length="22m" number="73." extralength="22m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="88" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained.</climb>
  <climb name="Whinging Poms" id="97" fa="D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 1990." gradestars="17" lengthnumber="22m74." numberlength="74.22m" starsgrade="17">The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose).</climb>
  <climb name="Feed the Man Meat" id="98" fa="Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 1989." gradestars="17" length="23m" number="75." extralength="23m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="90" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Taliesin" id="99" fa="Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." gradestars="16" lengthnumber="22m76." numberlength="76.22m" starsgrade="16">On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Ygdrassill" id="100" fa="Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 1981." gradestars="17" length="15m" number="77." extralength="15m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="92" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Furless" id="101" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997." gradestars="17" lengthnumber="15m78." numberlength="78.15m" extragrade="17" starsextra="">To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face.</climb>
  <text classid="heading3102" idclass="102heading3">Travel Land - Upper Tier</text>
  <text classid="description103" idclass="103description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text>
  <image heightid="800131" widthheight="1200800" idsrc="131Travel Land.jpg" legendTitle="Travel Land" legend="true" srcwidth="Travel Land.jpg1200">
    <drawing>
      <path id="66883" linkedTo="104" d="M127.0,781.0C125.0,665.0 116.0,541.3 122.0,491.0C128.0,440.7 150.7,420.5 175.0,376.0C199.3,331.5 258.5,240.9 265.0,229.0C271.5,217.1 269.8,209.2 273.0,196.0" points="127,781, 122,491, 175,376, 265,229, 273,196,lower"/>
      <path id="60533" linkedTo="105" d="M451.0,771.0C509.8,511.8 539.2,382.2 598.0,123.0" points="451,771, 598,123,"/>
      <path id="55581" linkedTo="107" d="M969.0,735.0C962.6,619.8 961.2,482.0 953.0,447.0C944.8,412.0 998.0,402.7 994.0,367.0C990.0,331.3 923.3,136.8 915.0,108.0C906.7,79.2 897.4,41.4 898.0,35.0C898.6,28.6 895.4,25.4 896.0,19.0C896.6,12.6 938.2,19.4 928.0,11.0" points="969,735, 953,447, 994,367, 915,108, 898,35, 896,19, 928,11,lower"/>
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>29</climb>
      <climb>104</climb>
      <climb>105</climb>
      <climb>106</climb>
      <climb>107</climb>
      <climb>108</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Wild Willy" id="104" fa="G Phillips, May 2003." gradestars="24*" number="79." length="8m" numbergrade="79.24" extra="Þ" stars="*">The overhanging arête left of Hugs n Kisses.</climb>
  <climb name="Hugs &apos;n&apos; Kisses" id="105" fa="Jay Audenart, 1998." gradestars="23" length="12m" number="80." extralength="12m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="96" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">Off-width.</climb>
  <climb name="Red Line" id="106" fa="G Phillips, Feb 2003." gradestars="27*" number="81." length="8m" numbergrade="81.27" extra="Þ" stars="*">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face.</climb>
  <climb name="Tribute" id="107" fa="N.Norm Selby 12 Oct 2002" gradestars="22**" number="82." length="15m" numbergrade="82.22" extra="5Þ" stars="**">Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Ekeko" id="108" fa="N.Norm Selby, 25 Aug 2002" gradestars="21*" number="83." length="14m" numbergrade="83.21" extra="5Þ" stars="*">Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="The Path of the Enigma" id="109" fa="N.Norm Selby, 12 Oct 2002" gradestars="23" number="84." length="12m" numbergrade="84.23" extra="4Þ" stars="">Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Panchamama" id="110" fa="N.Norm Selby, C.Cristy Walker, E.Eloise Bradley, A.WilliamsAl Williams  2002" gradestars="16" number="85." length="12m" numbergrade="85.16" starsextra="">Off-width. Good fun.</climb>
  <text classid="heading3133" idclass="133heading3">Travel Land - Lower Tier</text>
  <text classid="Discussion111" idclass="111Discussion">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text>
  <climb name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" id="112" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." gradestars="23" length="10m" number="86." extralength="10m" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="103" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="3Þ">Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="501 Bodega" id="113" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." gradestars="22" lengthnumber="10m87." numberlength="87.10m" extragrade="22" starsextra="">The arête with 2 u-bolts plus gear.</climb>
  <climb name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus" id="114" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." gradestars="21" lengthnumber="10m88." numberlength="88.10m" starsgrade="21">Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt.</climb>
  <climb name="Natural Athlete in a Barrel" id="115" fa="Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke &amp; Duncan MacGregor Dec 2008." gradestars="23" number="89." length="15m" numbergrade="89.23" extra="4Þ" stars="">The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <text classid="heading3116" idclass="116heading3">Sentry Box</text>
  <text classid="text117" idclass="117text">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text>
  <climb name="Sentry Box" id="118" fa="F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980." gradestars="19*" lengthnumber="15m90." numberlength="90.15m" extragrade="19" starsextra="*">On the left hand arête at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arête with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams.</climb>
  <climb name="The Sentinel" id="124" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst, Nov 1997." gradenumber="2191." length="15m" numbergrade="91.21">Start as for Sentry Box. Climb the Sentry Box, continuing straight up the arête (crux), where Sentry Box escapes right (RPs).</climb>
  <climb name="Fridge Magnet" id="119" fa="Nick Hancock Nov 2004." gradestars="26**" number="92." length="10m" numbergrade="92.26" extra="4Þ" stars="**">Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off.</climb>
  <climb name="Rainbow Groove" id="120" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst." gradestars="21" lengthnumber="15m93." numberlength="93.15m" extragrade="21" starsextra="">The slim groove on the left arête. Protected by RP's.</climb>
  <climb name="Shogun" id="121" fa="NNorm Selby  28 Dec 2003." gradestars="22*" number="94." length="10m" numbergrade="94.22" extra="3Þ" stars="*">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion122" idclass="122Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text>
  <climb name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust" id="123" fa="P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 1988." gradestars="19" lengthnumber="40m95." numberlength="95.40m" starsgrade="19">Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height.</climb>
</guide>