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<guide version="3">
  <header access="You will need to arranged access before climbing at Proctors Road Quarry. At the gates of the quarry you will find a phone number (See picture of sign below) which connects you to university property services. Property services will tell you that to use the quarry you merely need to fill out their standard indemnity form before each visit. The catch is that you must provide evidence of a current public liability insurance policy for an amount not less than $10m. The easiest thing to do is join the Tasmanian University Climbing Club as all  Schools/sections of the University and clubs/societies officially affiliated with the University are automatically covered by University insurance policy and are not required to provide evidence of cover. To get access you need to fill out this form. After you&apos;ve done this security will be informed and they will open the gate for you. It&apos;s best if you give them a weeks notice. Climbers have been ejected for not going through the proper process. It&apos;s a pain in the ass for Uni as well as for us, so if possible give it a go until something better is sorted out. Getting there is extremely easy. From the city head along Sandy Bay Road to the traffic lights at King Street. Take a right, then follow this up to near the top of Proctors Road. Assuming that you have arranged access, enter the quarry on the left and park within - belay from your bull bar if you wish. Parking close to the cliff is not recommended though, unless you have friends in the panel beating business. The cliff is divided in two levels. The lower level offers all the difficult problems, mostly on the left as you enter. The upper tier offers good easier problems which are more suited to top-roping. There are no climbs in the lower quarry - if you want to climb on choss, see the Waterworks section." acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="As your drive up Proctors Road on the skirts of Hobart, there is a cool old quarry on the lefthand side that provides some good climbing. The land on which the cliff resides is owned by the Tasmanian University, and with the risk of liability looming, they have decided to close the cliff unless you make arrangements with them beforehand.  The cliff is recommended for several pursuits. It offers some good leads on reasonable rock in the twenties as well as a collection of easier &quot;beginners&quot; routes that can be top roped or led. There is also some good bouldering available, often with nice flat landings. A spate of recent retro-bolting has transformed some of the previously unsafe routes into enjoyable climbs. You can thank Johns Domeney and Tiller for this work." name="Proctors Road Quarry" rock="Slick quarried dolerite" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="30 seconds" id="1"/>
  <gps id="54">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.91019" longitude="147.31125" easting="525406" northing="5249111" zone="55G" code="" description="Proctors Quarry"/>
  <image id="53" src="Proctors Road Quarry Sign.JPG" width="400" height="284"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="3">Back Wall : Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="4">The first set of climbs are on the Back Wall of the Lower Tier, which runs parallel to the road.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Cocaine Corner" id="5" fa="Adrian Herington.">Climb the slab and corner above. Can be protected naturally although the gear isn't very inspirational at the crux - the route used to have a fixed piton at this point (there is a hangerless dynabolt just above this point but it is hard to clip).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="22m" name="Dilandia" id="6" fa="Simon Parsons, May 1983.">Climb the slab and face to the flaky roof. Move up this, then follow the face above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="24" length="23m" name="Cold Turkey" number="" stars="*" id="7">Four bolts lead to a chain. Simon Parsons Mar 83. A direct start up the faint arête 2m to the left was added Dec/93 by Marcel Jackson. Careful with the bolts on this one.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="25" length="15m" name="Delerium" number="" stars="*" id="8" fa="Marcel Jackson, Oct 1993.  ">Start 1.5m left of Hit Me Quick. Three bolts. Careful with the bolts on this one.</climb>
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="19" length="23m" name="Hit Me Quick" number="" stars="**" id="9" fa="Evan Peacock (solo), Oct 1984.">Start just left of Sister Morphine Direct. Climb the slab then continue as for Sister Morphine. Originally the route had no gear but it has recently been retro-bolted (six bolts) and is now an excellent climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="23m" name="Sister Morphine Direct" id="10" fa="Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.">A direct line up the Sister Morphine groove. Originally the route had almost no gear.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="23m" name="Sister Morphine" id="11" fa="">The groove at the gum tree. Move right of the groove. A bolt to the right of the groove offers some protection at about 20m.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Opening Instructions" id="12" fa="Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.">To the right of Sister Morphine is a leftwards trending flake system going up to a roof. The direct start is quite hard, although you can start it just to the right at an easier grade. Clip the bolt up under the roof at 20m, and then pass it on the left.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="13m" name="Ultima" id="13" fa="Jon Tiller, Jun 1994.">Start about 3m left of Quick Trip, climbing past one fixed hanger then finishing as for Quick Trip (shares its second bolt).</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name="Quick Trip" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="Marcel Jackson, Jun 1994.">Starts about 15m left of Overdose, just to the left of the incipient overhanging crack (project). Climb up past three fixed hangers, traversing right when the ledge is reached.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Overdose" number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="Kim Carrigan, Apr 1982.">About midway along the back wall of the lower tier is a blank looking and gently overhanging wall. Climb up past three bolts, with crux moves near the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Natural High" number="" stars="***" id="16" fa="M.Law, G.Child, 1979.">1. 23. Ascend the face and overhanging groove, past four U-anchors. 2. 20. Climb the easier ground above on somewhat less secure rock.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="35m" name="Passover" id="17" fa="Marcel Jackson, Feb 1994.">A rising traverse starting after the second U of Natural High. Follow the grooves right past Faceless, Bent Spoons and Training for Austin to finish up Exploding White Flys.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="27" length="15m" name="Faceless" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.">This route takes a straight line up the steep slab (2 bolts) then overhanging wall (1 bolt) between Natural High and Bent Needles.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Bent Needles and Straight Spoons" number="" stars="*" id="19" fa="Justin Kennedy, Oct 1984.">Start at the bulge just right of Natural High. Ascend the bulge then follow the overhanging face above past two bolts (which make the original needles seem comparatively straight). Move left to finish at the first belay of Natural High.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="23m" name="Training for Austin" number="" stars="" id="20" fa="Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.">Climb the thin groove 2m right of Bent Needles.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="15m" name="Suicide Bridge" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.">Start on a distinctive overhanging corner. Six bolts and a chain.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="16" length="22m" name="Exploding White Flies" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="Jon Tiller, Jan 1994.">Start 2m right of Training for Austin. Scramble up loose ground to the first bolt, then continue up the line. Eight bolts.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="23">(Matt's note: some people think that starting up this route, crossing to Suicide Bridge at the third bolt then crossing back after the chain on Suicide Bridge, constitutes a new route but I don't).</text>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="19" length="30m" name="Futuo Lacettae" number="" stars="**" id="24" fa="John Tiller, Aug 1994.">Start 15m right of Exploding White Flies at the base of a flaky slab. Follow the bolts to the chain link (can be used as a belay) then more bolts to the top. Despite the fact that, for many years, this section of rock was written off as choss this route is excellent. It is destined to be very popular as, in the sub-twenty region, there are few quality clip-ups in Hobart.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="18" length="10m" name="Holiday in Lizardland" number="" stars="" id="25" fa="Jon Tiller, 1996.">Start 10m right of Futuo Lacettae in a chossy corner. Climb past five bolts. The top-rope chain (single bolt) for this route is accessible from the second tier which may help locating this one.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="26">Lower Tier : Right Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="27">The section which runs perpendicular to the road is referred to as the Right Wall of the Lower Tier.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="SolidState.jpg" width="400" id="28" legend="true" legendTitle="Solid State Wall" legendx="5" legendy="5" height="354">
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="10m" name="Solid City" id="29">About 10m along the right wall is a nice easy leftwards trending corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Rock n Roll; No Rocks are Rolling" number="1." stars="" id="30">A few meters further along the wall is a shallow groove. Follow this up, finishing either up the corner to the left or the face on the right.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Transformer" number="2." stars="" id="31" fa="D.Grey, Apr 1996.">Start as for Solid State. After clipping the second bolt, move out left, up the line of weakness to a bolt. Continue straight up to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="10m" name="Solid State" number="3." stars="*" id="32" fa="Simon Parsons, Mar 1983.">A few metres right of Rock n Roll is another groove. Climb the wall/groove past four U-anchors. Easier ground leads to the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" guide.action="submit""31""0" guide.type="text" id="33">(Matt's note: The grading of this climb appears to be of fundamental and quintessential importance to many climbers. After hours of sometimes heated debate the vexing decision, "grade 19 or 20*", still remains unsolved in some peoples' minds. I have autocratically cast the deciding vote.)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17-19" length="10m" name="Commune" number="4." stars="*" id="34" fa=" Jon Tiller provided the steel">Several variants exist on the black wall right of Solid State (bring your own key-hole hangers).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="After Work" id="35" fa="Jon Tiller, Oct 1996.">Starts from a ledge two metres above the ground. Bolts need key-hole hangers.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="36">For the next 20m to the right the cliff is pretty chossy. The next couple of climbs are beyond this, on the small compact wall directly below the road.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="Hairlip.jpg" width="400" id="37" legend="true" legendTitle="Hair Lip" legendx="230" legendy="10" height="516">
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="7m" name="Nose Job" number="1." stars="" id="38">The arête and face left of Hair Lip. One bolt.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Hair Lip" number="2." stars="" id="39">This is the obvious crack which winds its way up the face. Climb the slab to the overhang, then follow the crack to the top. Good natural pro.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Neglected" number="3." stars="" id="40" fa="FFA S.Peyr, W.Bartlett Jul 2009">Climb the line of weakness 2m right of Hair Lip. Good series of balancy moves. UsedCommonly tosoled bein athe top-rope problem, now led with gear (wire) at horizontal break. Don't fall from high up80s by various students in Peter Jacksons climbing school, gear is available in horizontal.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="41">Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="42">Above the Right Wall of the Lower Tier is the Upper Tier. The climbs on this tier are generally easier and less secure, with many loose holds, frequent rock falls and lovely sloping, greasy holds. Protection tends to be limited so leading is not recommended.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bombs Away#" number="" stars="" id="43">Start 2m right of the big blue "A". Climb up through the broken face to the flake. Traverse to the left 4m to the overhang. Pull up directly through this (crux) then finish easily.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="18" length="10m" name="Nukem All" number="" stars="**" id="44" fa="Jon Tiller, Sep 1996.">Climb the line of bolts (key-hole hanger required for first) to a chain. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Stoned by Non-Addictive Substances#" id="45">Start off the big block 2m right of Bombs Away. Ascend the broken groove tending rightwards, passing right of the overhang.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="No Takers#" id="46">Climb up to the ledge then continue directly up. The crux is conquering the orange-tinged rock just above the ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="No Takers Variant#" id="47">From the ledge, trend right then move back left at two-thirds height to follow the easiest possible route to the top. The cliff to the right is less stable than Nutgrove Beach on a windless day. Nevertheless, a few routes can be found.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="12m" name="Proctoscope#" id="48">The black slab-like feature on the right of the Upper Tier. At least four variants are possible.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Prostrate#" id="49">The drill-line. Difficulty tends to vary week to week depending on what rocks are currently on the climb.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="50">Southern Outlet</text>
  <text class="text" id="51">The next climb isn't even at Proctors Road but I couldn't think of anywhere else to put it. It is on the cliff that is on the left as you drive down the Southern Outlet towards Hobart.</text>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="16" length="20m" name="TUCC - Totally Unstable Choss Climb" number="" stars="" id="52" fa="John Domeney, Aug 1993.">Another two-stroke-powered gem from the choss-master. Starts approximately in the middle of the cliff, just R of "100" in yellow spray paint. Follow the bolts.</climb>