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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="The base of Whitewater Wall can be reached by following a rough track which begins where the old road first meets the top of the cliff. From the cliff top, head north (along the top of the cliff) to follow an indistinct pad to a rock cairn that marks the start of the descent (100m or so from where you first get the cliff top). The descent can be tricky in parts. Head down via a series of steps to a big terrace which is directly north of Whitewater Wall (above Light Fingered Madison Buttress). Scramble behind the notch at the southern end of the terrace and down a short corner to the base of the wall. The large aplite dyke which crosses the wall from left to right is Apline. Again, the climbs are described left to right, but you&apos;ll encounter them right to left.&lt;br/&gt;Caution: there are lots of loose rocks and boulders at the top of the Wall, particularly above the popular easy routes in the middle." acknowledgement=" " history="" intro="" name="Whitewater Wall" rock="White granite, 10-50m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
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  <climb name="The Inevitable Destruction" id="3" extra="" grade="11" length="60m" number="1." stars="" fa="B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Mar 1975.">This goes up the easy angled rock left of Leilani.</climb>
  <climb name="Leilani" id="4" extra="" grade="11" length="60m" number="2." stars="" fa="T.Last, S.Anderson, Mar 1975.">The corner below Slaughterhouse Five.</climb>
  <climb name="Slaughterhouse Five" id="5" extra="" grade="16" length="55m" number="3." stars="**" fa="D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Mar 1975. Alt Finish: Bill Baxter and Will Van Den Bosch, 17 Mar 2008 (although may be the line climbed previously by Dave James).">The second pitch of this popular route takes the crack that goes up the right hand side of the large roof at the wall's extreme left. 1. 20m. Climb Inevitable Destruction until level with the base of the crack on the right wall. 2. 25m. Move right across the large corner (Leilani) to the crack, up this to belay on ledge above the level of the roof. 3. 10m. Step right and easily up. Vonnegut's Finish (10m 17) After the main pitch, go up the corner for 3m to an horizontal crack that splits the steep wall on the left. Along this to the edge. Up the edge for a tenuous mantleshelf move to finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Stretcher O&apos;Neil" id="7" extra="" grade="20" length="70m" number="4." stars="**" fa="N.Deka, A.Adams, D.Stephenson, Nov 1990." guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Start as for Slaughterhouse Five. After climbing the crack for a few meters cross After the Goldrush, stepping right onto a knob on the face. Move up and slightly right with a couple of long reaches to gain a good ledge. Move up the face above on good holds and then right to a ledge. Above, trend left up to the ledge at the top of Slaughterhouse Five. There is also a 22 variant up the face further right by D. Stephenson.</climb>
  <climb name="Resolution" id="8" extra="" grade="17" length="10m" number="5." stars="" fa="R.Thompson, R.Mansfield, Jan 1978.">The obvious off-width crack above the first belay on After the Goldrush. Needs no more description.</climb>
  <climb name="After the Goldrush" id="6" extra="" grade="19" length="70m" number="6." stars="***" fa="Kim Carrigan, I.Lewis, Jan 1975.">Start 8m right of Leilani below some leftward leading flakes. 1. 20m 16. Up the wall, then follow the flakes to a ledge. Climb straight up corner to ledge. 2. 15m 19. Traverse left under roof, then follow the diagonal up to a ledge below steep crack. 3. 35m 16. Follow the crack until it leads into Slaughterhouse Five.</climb>
  <climb id="69" stars="**" extra="" number="7." name="Lost Boys Variant" length="45m" grade="19" fa="Josh Mackenzie, Stephanie Hart, December 2016">Start as for No Turn Left Unstoned, past bolt. At rock scab head left over runout slab up to small ledge on left side of red-coloured block. Climb left trending flake with just sufficient crack to house gear and fingers to small ledge and over seemingly blank bulge to tree belay. (seems to have been a couple of previously drilled bolt holes without bolts on slab section).</climb>
  <climb name="No Turn Unstoned" id="9" extra="" grade="19" length="45m" number="8." stars="***" fa="P.Cullen, W.Anderson, Jul 1982.">Starts a few metres right of Resolution, it has a bolt at about 18m. Climb straight to the bolt, passing through a short, shallow corner. Straight up past the bolt, then slightly right and up over top scab to the finish. Considered poorly protected by some, despite the bolt at the crux, it is nevertheless a great climb.</climb>
  <climb name="Baystone Blues" id="10" extra="" grade="17" length="45m" number="9." stars="**" fa="B.Kennedy, R.Muehlin, I.Lewis, D.Bowman, L.Closs, Jan 1977.">Poor protection and easy to get lost but good climbing. Begin just right of the start of No Turn Unstoned (easily locatable because of its bolt). Climb up with a slight right trend to directly below left hand big scab. Straight up over this to a break below steeper rock at top. Up crack in steep pillar.</climb>
  <climb name="Earthly Dilemma" id="11" extra="" grade="14" length="45m" number="10." stars="" fa="P.Robinson, G.Holloway, Feb 1976.">The first obvious crack line on the left hand side of Whitewater Wall proper. A few metres right of Baystone Blues. Climb the crack. Top half now extra gritty with tussock grass clumps and unrewarding.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Apline" id="12" extra="" grade="12" length="70m" number="11." stars="***" fa="K.Carrigan, S.Karpiniec (alt.), Jan 1975.">This route follows the large aplite dyke which crosses the face diagonally from left to right. A landmark, and a total classic. 1. 36m. Follow dyke to ledge. 2. 34m. Follow dyke to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Beyond Blue" id="66" extra="" grade="14" length="55m" number="12." stars="**" fa="B. Baxter, concocted this back when Adam was a lad...">Getting depressed about your climbing? This integral route should bring the smile back... An eliminate that picks up some terrific climbing along the way. &lt;br/&gt;Climb the juggy face just to the L of Out of the Blue and at the large recessed ledge, just below the sticking out flake/chockstone, step boldly out L under the scabs. Straight up over the scabs on immaculate holds until a balancy and unprotected traverse L crosses over Earth Dilemma. Climb up and L to the large bush, and finish up the final crack of Baystone Blues.</climb>
  <climb name="Out of the Blue" id="13" extra="" grade="15" length="45m" number="13." stars="" fa="L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 1974.">Climb the next crack right of Earthy Dilemma. Despite a pleasant start, it becomes awkward around a bush at 30m. Not the best climb on the wall.</climb>
  <climb name="Ultimate Conception" id="14" extra="" grade="10" length="45m" number="14." stars="*" fa="I.Lewis, L.Closs, May 1974." guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Good beginners climb. This is the left line opposite the detached knob. It crosses Apline at about 8m. Climb the crack. Best done in more than one pitch.</climb>
  <climb name="Lace Thunder" id="15" extra="" grade="12" length="45m" number="15." stars="" fa="L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 1974.">The right hand line of the two near the separate knob. Climb to the big cave type hollow and out the top right of this then straight to the top.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="16">The part of the wall right of Lace Thunder has been climbed on in every possible spot. There is little harder than grade 14 and it is probably the best climbing of this grade in the state. Three immaculate lines have been picked out as they are just so good - as for the rest, go for your lives.</text>
  <climb name="Bill&apos;s Line" id="67" extra="" grade="15" length="50m" number="16." stars="**" fa="B. Baxter climbed it in 2008 although he is certain it will have been climbed before!">10m to the R of Lace Thunder is a square cave-like chimney - about 2m further R, just L of a short L-facing corner, the wall is split by a steep finger crack. Climb the crack and then straight up the wall above on smaller and smaller holds. For full value, stay out of the gritty crack on the L and finish over the final bulge. The protection towards the top, where the climbing gets harder, is sparse but adequate.</climb>
  <climb id="74" stars="**" extra="" number="17." name="The Corner" length="50m" grade="15" fa="Unknown">Up the L-facing corner and directly up the wall above where pro is sparse, joining Apline at the top.</climb>
  <climb name="The Far Right" id="17" extra="" grade="14" length="55m" number="18." stars="**" fa="Unknown">An excellent and commonly climbed route is at the extreme RH end of the Wall. Start at a short steep wall a couple of metres to the L of the end of the main wall itself. Climb up to a break and then follow the left trending crack line to the final bulge crossing Apline at the top. Finish over the bulge or walk off left.</climb>
  <climb name="Prancing in Pink" id="18" extra="" grade="19" length="80m" number="19." stars="" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, late, 1988.">On big ledge ~15m above platform on right hand end of Whitewater Wall. 1). Climb left to belay in Earthy Dilemma. 2). Keep traversing left past bolt on No Turn Unstoned and drop down to traverse along After the Goldrush. 3). Finish up Slaughterhouse Five.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="21">Light Fingered Maddison Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="22">The Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is the compact wall rising out of the sea to the north of Whitewater Wall. Routes here are condition dependent, but the rock quality here is excellent. Best accessed by walking about 50m at sea-level to the north of Whitewater Wall. Routes from Rent a Rocket onwards are best via abseil, although Rent a Rocket itself can be accessed via a short traverse from the left.</text>
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  <climb name="Mrs. D&apos;s Girdle" id="24" extra="" grade="23" length="30m" number="20." stars="**" fa="R.Clune, G.Tempest, Mar 1983." guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The name tells all. Very good climbing. Start at Snotty Snake and follow the horizontal all the way past Light Fingered Maddison and Rent a Rocket. Continue across the final horizontal to finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Snotty Snake" id="25" extra="" grade="26" length="10m" number="21." stars="*" fa="E. Peacock, Oct 1995." guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The line with 1 BR, on the left of the buttress. A pre-placed first runner and long sling on the bolt were used on the first ascent. Reputedly easier if you're a bit taller, but damn hard if you're not.</climb>
  <climb name="Animal Instincts Direct" id="26" extra="" grade="28" length="15m" number="22." stars="***" fa="G. Phillips, S.Young, 2007." guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">One of the best and hardest trad routes around. When the original route traverses right, head direct up the flaring cracks above.</climb>
  <climb name="Animal Instincts" id="27" extra="" grade="25" length="15m" number="23." stars="*" fa="S.Parsons, 1987.">The crack 3m left of Light Fingered Maddison. Follow this until it ends, then move right to the undercling (crux) and straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="Light Fingered Maddison" id="28" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" number="24." stars="***" fa="N.Smith, N.Deka, F.Moon, R.McMahon, 1981.">Just left of the water are some right trending diagonals, below a sentry box. Climb the diagonals into the sentry box, then straight to the top. Well protected, excellent climbing.</climb>
  <climb name="Rent a Rocket" id="29" extra="" grade="23" length="15m" number="25." stars="*" fa="Glen Tempest, R.Clune, Mar 1983.">Out of the water just right of Light Fingered Maddison (judge the tide and waves carefully). Lurch out of the sea and up the rib to gain the crack. Continue up the diagonal then the vertical shallow seam crack above to the top. Offset gear is beneficial.</climb>
  <climb id="72" stars="*" extra="" number="26." name="In the Company of Thieves" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Squib, Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland. Nov, 2017.">Start from a stance L of Spray. Tricky move up crack to horizontal, then up and L to nice layback flake system (small cams). Bomber gear after this leads to a thought-provoking finish.</climb>
  <climb id="73" stars="" extra="" number="27." name="Klepto" length="15m" grade="20" fa="Squib, Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland. Nov, 2017.">Start as for In the Company of Thieves, but head directly up from horizontal. Steal a hold from Spray and finish straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="Spray" id="30" extra="" grade="17" length="15m" number="28." stars="*" fa="N.Deka, R.Hamilton, 1981.">The large groove L of Knocked in Rock.</climb>
  <climb name="Knocked in Rock" id="31" extra="" grade="15" length="15m" number="29." stars="" fa="J.Lamb, Pete Steane, Oct 1982.">Starts on the yellow stained rock at the right hand end of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. Rap to a small ledge near sea level 3m to the right of the large groove. Up the flake crack to the large ramp, then climb the overhanging yellow wall on jugs to finish up a shallow corner on the slab.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="32">Above the Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is a short bolted climb. It doesn't look very good, but in this case looks are deceiving. To find the climb look at the cliffs above Light Fingered Maddison and spot the u-bolts.</text>
  <climb name="Dislocator Beta" id="33" extra="Þ" grade="25" length="12m" number="30." stars="*" fa="Nick Hancock, Apr 2002.">Climb past the three bolts to the no-hand rest on the ledge above. Either finish direct or bail left and up. It's not that difficult direct (19), but you do risk a ground fall. There's a tree at the top to belay or rap off, or you can scamper off to the north.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="34">The short crack line to the right of Dislocator Beta is about grade 16 and is pretty cruisy apart from a strenuous top out. Descend/belay as for Dislocator Beta.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">The Prow</text>
  <text class="text" id="36">These routes are described in relation to the Prow, the prominent orange buttress on the point about 100m north of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. It is clearly visible from the top of Whitewater Wall. Best approached by walking down a gully just north of the Prow and then walking back along the shelves. There is now a single bolt for belay on top of the prow buttress.</text>
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      <climb>39</climb>
      <climb>40</climb>
      <climb>41</climb>
      <climb>64</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb name="Quadrella" id="39" extra="" grade="15" length="18m" number="31." stars="" fa="D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The crack on the arête, gained by climbing into the overhanging slot left of the arête and then stepping right onto the nose and up the arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Crank" id="40" extra="" grade="20" length="18m" number="32." stars="" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, Dec 1990.">Just right of the arête. Bouldery start and up the right diagonal crack. Back left to the horizontal break and up the seam just right of the arête. It's a bit contrived avoiding the easy crack on the left, but fun off the ground.</climb>
  <climb name="Quartet" id="41" extra="" grade="17" length="18m" number="33." stars="" fa="D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The slab right of the arête. Pull up on to the slab, climb to the horizontal break and head right up the ramp.</climb>
  <climb name="The Prowler" id="64" extra="" grade="23" length="20m" number="34." stars="*" fa="Alex and Bob Wilson, July 2012.">Start as for the Prow. Once established on the nose follow thin seam L then straight up past gear and two bolts to finish on top of the Prow.</climb>
  <climb name="The Prow" id="42" extra="" grade="20" length="22m" number="35." stars="**" fa="D.Stephenson, J &amp; M. Otlowski, Dec 1990." guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The prominent orange capped arête, overhanging at base. Climb up to the left side of the buttress, move right, up the steep flake, to a stance on the nose. Climb a few feet up the left hand seam, step right across the slab, and follow the thin crack on the arête to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="70" stars="**" extra="" number="36." name="The Prow - right hand start" length="22" grade="20" fa="Rob Hardy Sep 2017">Climb slightly to the right of the overhanging roof at the base of the orange capped arête on good hand jams. Pull around the roof (more good jams) and continue up stepping slightly left to join original line of The Prow.</climb>
  <climb name="Gangabang" id="43" extra="" grade="16" length="22m" number="37." stars="*" fa="D.Stephenson, J &amp; M.Otlowski, Dec 1990." guide.action="submit" guide.id="40" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The wall right of The Prow. Climb a pillar and cracks to finish up thin cracks just right of The Prow arête.</climb>
  <climb id="75" stars="*" extra="" number="38." name="Rum on Rocks" length="20m" grade="11" fa="Chris Lang, Oct 2020">Climb the easiest to access, slightly undervert crack that widens to towards the top. Good hand/foot jamming, great gear.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="44">Morning Glory Rocks</text>
  <text class="text" id="45">Morning Glory Rocks (which get the early rising sun) are situated above The Prow. Access is down the Whitewater Wall track to the point where it leaves the she-oaks but before descending the wide rock gully. At this point go north for 20 meters.</text>
  <climb name="Glory Days" id="46" extra="" grade="19" length="14m" number="3839." stars="" fa="R. McMahon." guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Up the center of the first Rock. The thin crack with an overhanging start.</climb>
  <climb name="Darling, Don&apos;t Get Upset, Cuddle Me Instead" id="47" extra="" grade="16" length="8m" number="3940." stars="" fa="Bill Baxter, Dennis Kearnes and Alan Williams, Oct 2003." guide.action="submit" guide.id="44" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">On the Second Rock, the thin crack a meter to the right of the off-width.</climb>
  <climb name="What A Weapon" id="48" extra="" grade="20" length="7m" number="4041." stars="" fa="Dennis Kearnes and half of Launceston, Oct 2003." guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">At the right hand end of the Second Rock is a cosmetic RP crack. Up to this, then jugs at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="49">Tango Towers</text>
  <text class="description" id="50">To find the following climbs head pretty much straight downhill, northish, from the campsite opposite the toilet. You'll follow a ridge type feature down to an orange block. Head around to the left of this and go back right when you get near the water. You'll end up in a small zawn. Tango Towers is predominantly in the shade.</text>
  <climb name="A Friend in Need" id="51" grade="20" length="20m" number="4142." stars="" fa="Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Apr 2001.">Deep in the zawn is a roof with an obvious horizontal line below it. This route is a hand traverse of this line, from right to left. The first pitch is fun, the second is crap and loose, I've included it only as a deterrent to any would-be suitors keen to get their name in the book - don't go near it, it's worthless and been done. 1) Follow the horizontal line from right to left, finishing on the slab. Gear and rock are good. 2) Grab the jug, chin up to the layaway and head on up. Gear and rock are crap.</climb>
  <climb name="One Move Wonder" id="52" grade="22" length="12m" number="4243." stars="" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2000.">On the next pinnacle right. Start at the groove on the right of the face. A few tricky moves up left (crux) lead to the horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Sling Your Hook" id="53" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" number="4344." stars="" fa="Nick Hancock, Aug 2000.">On the next pinnacle to the right. Start on the left of the face. Head up for a few meters and work right to the arête at the horizontal. Follow the arête and face to the next horizontal, and then the line to the top. Protection is not great, but a sneakily slung spike edge may ease the tension for a while (until it falls off when you're in the middle of the crux).</climb>
  <climb name="The Small Things In Life" id="54" extra="" grade="21" length="12m" number="4445." stars="*" fa="Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, Aug 2000.">The thin left trending seam 3m left of Up the Ante. Up past an undercling flake, to follow the seam left to the arête. A tricky mantle leads to the top. The gear on this route is not great (small hard to arrange RP's), but the climbing is good.</climb>
  <climb name="Up the Ante" id="55" extra="" grade="18" length="12m" number="4546." stars="" fa="N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Oct 2000.">Approximately 14m left of All Hands to the Pump. The right hand arête of the next pinnacle. The crux is off the ground and the gear after this is good.</climb>
  <climb name="Orange Crush" id="56" extra="" grade="20" length="10m" number="4647." stars="**" fa="R.Parkyn, A.Bissett, N.Hancock, Aug 2002.">Clip the bolt and climb the face to another via the tricky start. Follow the holds up and left, crossing the wide diagonal crack ( 4 camalot) to gain a third bolt. Head past this up the orange face to the top (mid-sized cams to belay).</climb>
  <climb name="All Hands to the Pump" id="57" grade="22" length="15m" number="4748." stars="**" fa="N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Aug 2000.">On the semi-detached orange topped pinnacle nearest the sea. Start up the line on the east to gain a ledge. Continue steeply through the bulge and on to the top via the sparsely protected open groove.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="58">Tango Towers - Right Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="59">If you are looking at the Tango Towers from the sea, around on the RHS towards Bluestone Bay is a 6m high, gently overhanging wall with a striking crack spliting in the middle. It is about 2 minutes' walk from the Tango Towers main area. These four climbs are on this wall.</text>
  <climb name="Generation Y" id="60" extra="" grade="18" length="6m" number="4849." stars="" fa="Will Bartlett and Alex Lewis, Sep 2009">On the left hand side on the wall there is a thrutchy pink band. Up this. Move right to top out.</climb>
  <climb name="Generation O" id="61" extra="" grade="19" length="6m" number="4950." stars="*" fa="Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett, Sep 2009">The thin, striking crack. Quite a nice bouldery sequence straight off the ground with some dynamic moves. Once the juggy horizontal break is reached, top out straight up. Red and Green C3's protect the lower moves.</climb>
  <climb name="A Bit of Alright" id="62" extra="" grade="14" length="6m" number="5051." stars="" fa="Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett, Sep 2009">Beginning on the lower RHS of the wall is a juggy horizontal break that moves left and up. Follow this to join Generation O.</climb>
  <climb name="Good Stuff" id="63" extra="" grade="19" length="4m" number="5152." stars="" fa="A.Lewis and W.Bartlett, Sep 2009">The RHS of the wall culminates in an overhanging prow. Climb this without going too far left or right. Might be a boulder problem, unsure of this as it could easily be done with mats.</climb>
</guide>