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Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header name="Mt Amos" id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="10-30 min" sun="All day sun" rock="Pink and grey coarse granite, 10-50m" intro="Mt Amos is the highest of the Hazards, and has a popular walking track to its summit. The routes on the North Face are good value with a most varied bunch of routes generally less than 60m high. Most are well protected for the Hazards and several are outstanding." history="" acknowledgement="" access="Park at the Wineglass Bay Track carpark inside the National Park, but take the Mt Amos Track instead. This track passes close by to first the Alps, then Southpark. After about 30 minutes the track passes the right hand side of the North Face. Walk left along the base of the cliff to find the routes."/>
  <gps id="2">
    <point description="Start of Access to South Park (off Mt Amos Track)" height="125" pid="0" longitude="148.29583" latitude="-42.14611" zone="55G" northing="5333188" easting="607073" code="CBH310"/>
    <point description="South Park (Cartman)" height="120" pid="1" longitude="148.29536" latitude="-42.14642" zone="55G" northing="5333154" easting="607033" code="CBH320"/>
    <point description="The Alps (top of Horny Ridge)" height="116" pid="2" longitude="148.29412" latitude="-42.14644" zone="55G" northing="5333154" easting="606931" code="CBH330"/>
    <point description="Mt Amos North Face (approx)" pid="0" longitude="148.29683" latitude="-42.14993" zone="55G" northing="5332763" easting="607148" code="CBH300"/>
  </gps>
  <text classid="heading23" idclass="3heading2">Mt Amos Lower Slopes</text>
  <text classid="Discussion4" idclass="4Discussion">The area is really a collection of boulders on the way up to the main Mt Amos cliff. They are, in the order the track passes them: The Alps, South Park and the imaginatively named Mt Amos Boulder .</text>
  <text classid="heading35" idclass="5heading3">The Alps</text>
  <text classid="Discussion6" idclass="6Discussion">A complex area of boulders with very easy access from the Wineglass Bay car park. From the car park follow the Mt. Amos track for around five minutes, until a short section of wooden duckboard is reached. To the right can be seen a large triangular shaped boulder, Matterhorn Rock, 100m or so away. To get there continue on the main track until a boulder is passed just on the right of the track. Turn off here and work your way up Matterhorn Rock. There are a large number of boulders in this area that show some potential for development.</text>
  <text classid="text82" idclass="82text">Matterhorn Rock&lt;br/&gt;The largest boulder looks like its namesake. There is a U-bolt belay on top.</text>
  <climb name="Horny Ridge" id="7" fa="Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, 10 Sep 2001." stars="" number="1." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="6" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="2Þ">Follow the slab and left arête of the south face.-bolts. The further right you go the easier it is. A single bolt belay exists at the top (to the extreme right of the face). It's not possible to rap the route to clean it from this bolt if you want to pull your rope.</climb>
  <climb name="Smutty Ridge" id="8" fa="Nick Hancock, 10 Sep 2001." stars="" number="2." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">The easy right hand arête - no protection.</climb>
  <text classid="heading39" idclass="9heading3">South Park</text>
  <text classid="Discussion10" idclass="10Discussion">Ten minutes along the Mt. Amos track the path ascends some easy slabs. At this point traverse right to the large boulder. The following climbs are on the west face and are easily identifiable by their bolts. To descend from the routes, or belay a second up, have your belayer tie the rope off to a tree behind the boulder as there is no gear on top. It's not as epic as it sounds, apparently, but putting lower-offs on sports routes is not a bad idea.</text>
  <climb name="Cartman" id="11" fa="Nick Hancock 10 Sep 2001." stars="*" number="3." length="15m" grade="25" extra="6Þ">The left arête. Hard moves to gain the arête from the right and pumpy climbing above. Lower off to be added soon.</climb>
  <climb name="Kenny" id="12" fa="Nick Hancock 10 Sep 2001." stars="*" number="4." length="15m" grade="25" extra="Þ">The next climb right. Desperate moves right via two bolts lead to a horizontal and a thin groove above. A half-friend and wires are needed.</climb>
  <climb name="Stan" id="13" fa="Nick Hancock 8 Nov 2002." stars="**" number="5." length="15m" grade="28" extra="">The desparately thin finger crack to the right. Razors.</climb>
  <climb name="You&apos;re a Towel" id="69" fa="S. Young, 2010 (no-one game to second)." number="6." length="10m" grade="18">On the South Park boulders, in the middle of the three biggest is one for the belayers. Up the awkward handcrack to finish up black water runnel. Tape up!</climb>
  <text classid="heading314" idclass="14heading3">Mt. Amos Boulder</text>
  <text classid="Discussion15" idclass="15Discussion">About 200m before the North Face is an enormous pyramid shaped boulder 50m off the track to the left, just after it ascends some water runnels.</text>
  <climb name="Miyagi" id="16" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Dec 1989." stars="" number="7." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="15" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The route takes the west face. Climb via bolt to top. Long runout above bolt. Downclimb the north face to descend.</climb>
  <text classid="heading217" idclass="17heading2">Mt Amos North Face</text>
  <text classid="Discussion18" idclass="18Discussion">This is the obvious big cliff which can be clearly seen from Coles Bay. To get there go up the tourist route to the summit of Amos until you reach the level of the bottom of the cliff and then traverse left around under the cliff. The point where you leave the tourist track is marked by a very definite short corner (Dogstyle). It takes ~30 minutes to reach the cliff and you can descend at either end of the cliff. A most varied bunch of routes generally less than 60m high and well protected for the Hazards, with several that are absolute crackers.</text>
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      <climb>25</climb>
      <climb>26</climb>
      <climb>31</climb>
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  <climb name="East Coast Low" id="20" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward." stars="" number="8." length="" grade="" extra="">Sketchy route details. Takes the runnel to the left of High In The Bight as its first pitch.</climb>
  <climb name="High In The Bight" id="21" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jul 1986." stars="" number="9." length="65m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="19" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Really just a wandery Auntie K variant.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb Auntie K for 4m, then traverse left to reach runnel crack up slab. Up slab and runnel to ledge belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Traverse right around arête and climb corner of Auntie K to finish right of huge boulder on top.</climb>
  <climb name="Auntie K" id="22" fa="P.Jackson, R.McMahon, Nov 1971." stars="" number="10." length="65m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="20" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Left past Armadillo to where broken slabs rise up to the cliff base. Continue up these till below an obvious fortress type outcrop on the cliff top. At this point there should be a clean grey corner crack.&lt;br/&gt;1. 16m. Up crack to belay at the top of the corner.&lt;br/&gt;2. 21m. Traverse right and go up edge of face on grey rock beside a line of small bushes on left. Belay on large block.&lt;br/&gt;3. 28m. Left, then up reddish slabs to below a corner. An awkward move up the crack is followed by climbing on the face to the right. Traverse left above the crack to the corner, then bridge out left across the corner to reach a high jug on the left and finish beneath the fortress outcrop.</climb>
  <climb name="Off, Like A Maggotty Cat" id="23" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, A.Morgan, Jan 1991." stars="" number="11." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="21" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">This route goes up the nice slab between Auntie K and Orange Blossom Bachelor. Take some slings for protection on the top slab.&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Climb the corner for ~8m until it becomes possible to move left onto the arête. Climb the arête and move left to place an eleven Hex., and reach the foot of the slab. Now although the bolt is some distance away, you'll find many bombproof RPs up to your left. On via bolts to top.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. If you haven't yet abseiled off, climb the twin cracks on the arête to the right of the corner.</climb>
  <climb name="Orange Blossom Bachelor" id="24" fa="Peter Jackson, I.Lewis, J.Burgess, Aug 1972." stars="" number="12." length="70m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="22" guide.action="submit" grade="14" extra="">The easiest route up Amos North Face. Start up the cliffline 60m past Armadillo to an obvious weakness in a broken corner.&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Move up broken rock for 8m and then trend right on big holds to a perched belay point where the holds stop.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Climb the ramp slab to the left, moving across back into the corner. The route does not go up the offwidth above although this has been led.&lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Go up and move left to an obvious chimney. Climb this finishing on the outside. Good bridging.</climb>
  <climb name="Monkey&apos;s Uncle" id="25" fa="J.Friend, R.Jamison, 1974." stars="" number="13." length="55m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="23" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Be careful to clip only one rope until the end of the traverse on pitch one otherwise the sudden change in direction can result in an unexpected sudden runout on the crux. Start by moving left up the hill past Nincompoop it is the first feasible looking line. It is about 25m right of Orange Blossom Bachelor below an obvious right leading traverse 6 to 8m up.&lt;br/&gt;1. 26m. Climb up to the traverse, then along it, then 5m up to belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 29m. Head up left passing old piton to easier ground. Easily to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Nincompoop" id="26" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jul 1986." stars="**" number="14." length="45m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="24" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">This route is gaining a reputation as an excellent and character building day out thanks to a vocal yet very biased minority. Found 20m left of RH Negative under the distinctive roof 40m overhead.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Two bouldery moves off the ground provide access to a diagonal ramp.Left slightly then up the face to a gap between the trees on the scrubby ledge. Straight up on RP's until forced to traverse left 2m by a blank headwall. Climb up to the small bulge (RP pro on LHS) then pull around it to the right and up to the pedestal (crux) and belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Climb the slab to a ledge under the LH end of the roof. From the LH end, climb up and left slightly, then right and up to exit.</climb>
  <climb name="Armadillo" id="27" fa="M.McHugh, P.Jackson, R.McMahon Nov 1971" stars="" number="15." length="105m" grade="18 M4" extra="">More of a dinosaur really, as most of the climbing is now covered by other routes. Start 10m R of Nincompoop at a 3m high corner, directly under the RH end of the distinctive roof 40m overhead.&lt;br/&gt;1. 16m. Up diagonal line to left and then up short wall to large bushy ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Start off left end of ledge, with loose flake. Up grey weakness till traverse left can be made and drop to belay among loose spikes.&lt;br/&gt;3. 24m. Surmount pillar and then traverse from bong using sky hooks till a ledge leads to a continuation of the crack. Up 5m to belay.&lt;br/&gt;4. 26m. Continue up to difficult step left and up, continue diagonally left to foot of narrow chimney.&lt;br/&gt;5. 24m. 3m up chimney then right up easy walls to a large ledge belay.</climb>
  <climb name="Violent Jerks" id="28" fa="Al Adams, Nick Deka Apr 1991." stars="" number="16." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="26" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">The second pitch is recommended to masochists for the blood and tears involved. The third pitch is 'sweet as' and girdles L across the roofline above Nincompoop.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb Pete and Gerry's Route for 20m. Belay below the roof where the lines diverge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Jam left under the roof and thrutch into the bottomless groove. Up the face above and climb in under the huge roof to belay.&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Mount the roof at its RH end, and crank up for a positive finger pocket. As soon as your feet are up traverse left to better holds. Keep traversing above the roofline until you reach the LH end. Climb the easy crack to the top.&lt;br/&gt;Pitch 3 can be accessed without the blood and tears from the second pitch of Nincompoop.</climb>
  <climb name="Pete &amp; Gerry&apos;s Route" id="29" fa="Gerry Narcowicz, Pete Steane, Dec 1981." stars="" number="17." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="27" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">If you find many old bolts you might be right.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. As for RH Negative&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Start about 3m left of the second pitch of Babiy Yar. Climb the corner then the chimney and on to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Babiy Yar" id="30" fa="Pete Steane, Garn Cooper, Jan 1987." stars="*" number="18." length="55m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="28" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">A worthwhile alternative to RH Negative. Takes the widening corner left of RH Negative.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Climb to the first belay on RH Negative.&lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Start about 2m left of RH Negative second pitch. Up the corner past an old peg, and around roof. Up corner passing overlap, then step right to arête.</climb>
  <climb name="RH Negative" id="31" fa="L.Closs, M.McHugh, Nov 1971." stars="***" number="19." length="60m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="29" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Brilliant position. Popular with the masses although some are put off by the wide crack on the second pitch (a big cam induces courage). About 25m left of Incipience, it is a left trending diagonal crack. Start at a 15m left leading diagonal corner.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Climb the corner to a good ledge below the rightmost and lowest roof.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Up and left around first roof, then traverse right under second roof. Step right, then up crack to belay.&lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Short grey corner to top.</climb>
  <climb name="RH Positive" id="77" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock,  July 2015." stars="**" number="20." length="35m" grade="20" extra="">From the first belay of RH Negative, climb up the original route for a few metres, then reach round to the handcrack on the right side of the nose. Sharp jams lead into the original climb.</climb>
  <climb name="The Usual Suspects" id="70" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, May 2013." stars="***" number="21." length="50m" grade="23" extra="14Þ">An excellent varied climb up the groove and slab left of Little Bits of Wire. Climb the easy corner for 10m, then reach up left to clip the first bolt. Step up then right into the right trending groove. Follow this delicately to a cruxy bulge, then climb an easier knobby runnel that peters out into a blank slab. Scratch up this, trending right to a DBB. It is possible to rap off with a single 60m rope if you go via the American Beauty rap station.</climb>
  <climb name="Little Bits Of Wire" id="32" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Mar 1986." stars="*" number="22." length="60m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="30" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">This captivating line of right diagonals is on the face to the right of RH Negative. Not as good as it looks like it's going to be. Start at a broken corner a few metres right of RH Negative. &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Easily up corner. Tricky move from top of corner to get established on slab face above. Move 2m right, then straight up, with the deepest seam, that takes reasonle wires, just to your right. Step right at overhang, the climb easier ground to a belay. &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Straight up passing over gentler slab and short grey wall, then boulder to top.</climb>
  <climb name="American Beauty" id="71" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Gerry Narcowicz, June 2013." stars="***" number="23." length="35m" grade="25" extra="13Þ">A wonderful pumpy climb up the steep diagonal seams above the golden wall, left of the white runnel. Make a few moves up the easy corner of Little Bits of Wire, then head up the wall to a ledge. Climb the thin seams up rightwards, to a technical bulge and a few more hard moves, before somewhat easier climbing up the right arete to a DBB (it is possible to lower off from here with a 60m rope as the direct descent to the ground is shorter than the climb itself).</climb>
  <climb name="The Wolfpack" id="76" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, June 2015" stars="**" number="24." length="35m" grade="24" extra="Þ">Climbs the big L facing corner 20m L of Incipience.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 22 Climb a shallow groove then a sharp arete to a DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 24 Step R and bridge up the corner to a crux at the very top, DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Incipience" id="34" fa="P. Jackson, M. McHugh, 1970. FFA: Hot Henry Barber, L.Closs 1975." stars="***" number="25." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="31" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">It is a fine struggle that has prompted some major air over the years. Black and white, this left-trending corner is easily recognised even from Coles Bay. Originally climbed as two pitches, it is best done in one. A lot better than it looks like it's going to be when you're standing at the start. Gear is spaced at times but the climbing is easier when it is most run-out. Take a big rack, especially wires and very small up to medium cams. About 10m from the top the crack fuses and you step left out of the corner via a hole on the white water-steak; go left and up from there. Save a mid-sized cam or two for the top few metres.</climb>
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  <climb name="Catch 22" id="35" fa="Heather &amp; Nick Hancock  (Alt)  May 2006." stars="***" number="26." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="32" guide.action="submit" grade="27" extra="Þ">A varied and desperate climb up the hanging nose and groove right of Incipience. Featuring hard, well-protected pocket moves, as well as some major commitment in the final groove, it is one of the standout climbs of Freycinet.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 19. Move up to a ledge just right of Incipience, traverse right to a flake crack and climb this to a DBB below the nose.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 27. Climb the awkward crack and flake above, to crux moves into the open groove. Sustained climbing up this leads to a DBB on easier ground. Nine bolts.</climb>
  <climb name="Black Tomato" id="36" fa="M. McHugh, P. Jackson, R. McMahon, 1970" stars="" number="27." length="70m" grade="19" extra="">Varied pitches despite the scrubby appearance. To the left of Uncle's Hair the cliff dips in to a deep corner with an obvious chimney weakness. Slightly right, starting from the ground, is an offwidth.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb the offwidth for 4m and step left to a scrubby ledge.Go up the chimney to the ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Climb the crack in the corner to the base of the next short corner.&lt;br/&gt;3. 25m. Climb the corner and continue across the slab to finish.</climb>
  <climb name="A Tenuous Grip on Reality" id="83" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock  Jun 2018" stars="**" number="28." length="30m" grade="26" extra="12Þ">Climbs the scoopy and pocketed wall to the R. A hard start leads to easier climbing followed by a diabolical traverse right on miniscule holds.Trend up left a bit then straight up via more thin moves to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Uncle&apos;s Hair" id="37" fa="P. Jackson, M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1970" stars="" number="2829." length="64m" grade="16" extra="">A ridiculously difficult start but a very pleasant second pitch. Move left from Titus Groan to an obvious offwidth starting above a ledge a few metres up.&lt;br/&gt;1. 37m. Up the offwidth crux and continue bridging up enormous obvious line to the ledge.Belay at the far right hand end.&lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Move up the slab following a slight leftwards line to the top. Sparse but adequate protection.</climb>
  <climb name="Travels with my Wife and Pet Wookie" id="75" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs, June 2015" stars="*" number="2930." length="47m" grade="24" extra="17Þ">A thoroughly enjoyable excursion up the middle of the blank triangular slab, best done as 1 pitch.&lt;br/&gt;1.15m 24 Climb steeply up to a slight R facing groove at 5m, then more easily to a DBB on a ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2.32m 22 Climb up nicely featured rock to a very thin overlap and then up to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Titus Alone" id="38" fa="Phil Cullen, M. Burton, 1982." stars="" number="3031." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="35" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">An ill-defined and wandering route on a slab just left of Titus Groan. Start near the middle of the bottom of the big obvious slab. Trend diagonally right until you hit the main line and then head left. Climb where you think you might find runners (because this was Phil's behaviour on the original ascent).</climb>
  <climb name="Grey Band Route" id="39" stars="" number="3132." length="15" grade="" extra="">This is an obvious right trending grey band at the right hand end of the cliff. The climbing eases to very easy after the start.</climb>
  <climb name="Titus Groan" id="40" fa="M.Burton, Phil Cullen, 1982." stars="*" number="3233." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">A thought-provoking route with a very ugly bolt. Start near the Grey Band Route, just right of the obvious line which is straight and scrubby in the upper reaches. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Up the weakness in the face until the small overhang crossing the face is reached (20m). Move slightly left crossing the overhang and up to a rusty carrot bolt (sticks out 1 inch). Continue up the slab (crux) to belay below the bulge in a narrow slot. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. To the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Gormenghast" id="41" fa="Phil Cullen, M.Burton, 1982." stars="" number="3334." length="50m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="38" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Right of Titus Groan is a right leaning overlap groove. Climb this, then the slab above, then up to finish up the venerable grade 14 crack of enigmatic origin.</climb>
  <climb name="Dogstyle" id="42" fa="Hot Henry Barber 1975." stars="**" number="3435." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="39" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Sustained and rewarding. Start at the obvious corner mentioned above. Climb the corner, a No. 5 cam is useful at the top.</climb>
  <climb name="I Wish She Were Mine" id="43" fa="Norm Selby, Jun 2004." stars="*" number="3536." length="17m" grade="19" extra="7Þ">Around the corner to the right of Dog Style, just beside the main track to the summit of Mt Amos. Follow the grey dyke past 7 bolts to rap point.</climb>
  <climb name="No Friends Nutter" id="44" fa="Norm Selby, Jul 2004." stars="*" number="3637." length="17m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="41" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">Same start as I Wish She Were Mine, then go right, past 7 bolts to the same rap point. Now harder due to the loss of a hold.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion45" idclass="45Discussion">Below the right hand side of Mt Amos North Face, is a small cliff (also facing north), with two very worthwhile routes on it.</text>
  <climb name="Friction Romance" id="46" fa="Nick Hancock and Andrew Bissett, 15 Sep 2001." stars="**" number="3738." length="20m" grade="25" extra="Þ">The central seam crackline with a bolt at half height, 20m left of Fin D'amour. Good wires lead to the bolt and the crux, followed by easier well-protected climbing to the top. No lower-off installed so get someone to 2nd you, or rap off the tree at the top and walk back around to get your rope.</climb>
  <climb name="Fin D&apos;amour" id="47" fa="Nick Hancock and Andrew Bissett, 15 Sep 2001." stars="*" number="3839." length="20m" grade="22" extra="5Þ">The arête you walk under to get to the main wall. Start on the right via two u-bolts to gain a small ledge. Move onto the arête and continue past another 3 bolts to the top. Good climbing on solid crystals. Descent as above.</climb>
  <text classid="heading248" idclass="48heading2">Mt Amos West Face</text>
  <text classid="text72" idclass="72text">At the top of Mount Amos West is a massive square block facing north, with a thin water runnel in the centre. Approach by heading up the Mt Amos track for 5 minutes beyond the turn off to the North Face, then trend up right through light scrub and boulders, following some cairns to below the largest face.</text>
  <climb name="The Elegant Universe" id="73" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, June 2013." stars="***" number="3940." length="25m" grade="23" extra="8Þ">One of the best face climbs on the Hazards. Climb the short layback in the middle of the face, then continue up the shallow runnel on surprisingly good holds, until the angle lessens along with the size of the holds. Teeter up to easier ground and a DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Pretty Gritty" id="80" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs  Apr 2017" stars="" number="4041." length="45m" grade="20" extra="">Near the top of Mt Amos western side, and approached from above via a tagged part of the Skyline Traverse, is a long slightly left leaning handcrack, easily identifiable from the old Wineglass Lookout. Abseil in from a tree (60m). Climb the thin intermittent crack, to easier moves on good holds into the long handcrack.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion49" idclass="49Discussion">If you climb up Mt.Amos from the saddle between Mt.Amos and Mt.Mayson you'll encounter one or two respectable buttresses with some potential. It is a fair hike but it is a decent cliff and it is good to have a new perspective on the peninsula. The first climb I am aware of in this area was done in Jan 88 by Garn Cooper and Allan Adams, and is probably the furthest right line (it is quite nice and about grade 17). The only other time I know of anyone climbing here was when four blokes from Canberra (namely Dave Jenkins, Mark Sands, Rohan Hyslop and Robert Appel) visited in early 1989, and did these routes.</text>
  <text classid="text50" idclass="50text">These three climbs are on the buttress up the ridge from the lookout : good luck finding them</text>
  <climb name="Spoonerism" id="51" fa="M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4142." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="48" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Up the obvious crack in the middle of the wall.</climb>
  <climb name="Kamikaze Squad" id="52" fa="M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4243." length="35m" grade="19" extra="">Start 15m R of Spoonerism, at a cairn. A direct finish is posible at 22 but unprotected at present.....</climb>
  <climb name="Wimp Out" id="53" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1988." stars="" number="4344." length="35m" grade="18" extra="">Shares the same start as Kamikaze Squad and steps R of the smooth slab at th etop. Probably Al and Garn's original climb, "Mythrin and Naomi's Cubby House".</climb>
  <climb name="Trena" id="54" fa="R.Appel, D.Jenkins, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4445." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Start 70m right of Kamikaze Squad. Up ramp then wall to large block. Over this on jugs.</climb>
  <climb name="Plain Sailing" id="55" fa="M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4546." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="50" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Up steep wall left of black overhang.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion56" idclass="56Discussion">This cliff is at the northern end of West Amos crag just left of a large overhanging orange wall (which has an awesome steep and wide crack on it waiting to be done, only if you like potentially dangerous exfoliating gravel climbs!). This crag is much easier to reach by traversing around right from the Mt Amos track a bit higher than the North Face. A bit of an adventure to find it.</text>
  <climb name="Fondling A Lesbian" id="57" fa="R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, M.Sands, Jan 1989." stars="**" number="4647." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="52" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Superb well-protected climbing up the well-formed dyke.</climb>
  <climb name="Two Minute Noodles" id="58" fa="M.Sands, R.Hyslop, D.Jenkins, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4748." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="53" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Very Good. Up The Blind Watchmaker for 4m. Traverse right to a runner, then up thin diagonal to left. Follow large crack up. Seconds did direct start at 21.</climb>
  <climb name="The Blind Watchmaker" id="59" fa="D.Jenkins, R.Hyslop, M.Sands, Jan 1989." stars="" number="4849." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="54" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">The left diagonal line on the left of the buttress. Up this line and then up the arête.</climb>
  <text classid="heading360" idclass="60heading3">Lookout Cliff</text>
  <text classid="Discussion61" idclass="61Discussion">The following route lies on the east side of the Winglass Bay Track in the saddle between Mt. Amos and Mt. Mayson. Follow the track to the saddle and turn left along the Lookout Track for 15m. The climb ascends the boulder on the left.</text>
  <climb name="Firesome" id="62" fa="Hamish Jackson, Adele Vincent, Dec 1994." stars="" number="4950." length="7m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="57" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">The leftward tending short, steep diagonal crack on the boulder.</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion63" idclass="63Discussion">The following four climbs are on the west side of the Winglass Bay Track near the old Lookout.</text>
  <climb name="True Grit" id="78" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs  Apr 2017" stars="*" number="5051." length="20m" grade="23" extra="">On the upper tier climb, the wide crack with an undercut start, off a boulder, on the leftmost buttress. Counterbalance abseil to get off the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Truly Gritty" id="79" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Ben Griggs  Apr 2017" stars="" number="5152." length="15m" grade="22" extra="">Thirty metres right climb another wide crack with another undercut start. Head left and easily up to the summit, when the crack ends. Scramble down the back.</climb>
  <climb name="Clit" id="64" fa="Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 1979." stars="" number="5253." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="59" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra=""/>
  <climb name="Bloody Tourists" id="65" fa="Doug Fife, Nick Ward, Sep 1979." stars="" number="5354." length="30m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="60" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">This might have an aid move.</climb>
  <text classid="heading266" idclass="66heading2">Mt Amos East Face</text>
  <text classid="Discussion67" idclass="67Discussion">Just southwest of the saddle between Dove and Amos is a high slabby broken cliff which was first ascended in 1976. I have no record of this route. This cliff can be reached by extrapolating along either the Windy Hill route or the Amos north face route.</text>
  <climb name="Weatherman" id="68" fa="N. Duhig, P.Jackson, Apr 1986." stars="" number="5455." length="80m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="63" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Start down the slope past an obvious overhang on the right hand side of this cliff.&lt;br/&gt;1. 48m. Straight up to a small fractured cave. Pull out left and go up narrow ramp to the faint line leading up and then to the right. Up thais and continue on the edge of the face to the right finishing up a small right facing corner.&lt;br/&gt;2. 32m. Move right onto the face and go up to the overhangs following them diagonally up out to the exit - all very easy and pleasant.</climb>
</guide>