Coles Bay

The climbing at Coles Bay offers some of the best in the state, on pure white granite boulders and cliffs. It is the ideal place to head in the winters when the weather is too wet or cold everywhere else. In summer it can get quite greasy but with a little hold preparation this does not inhibit the climbing and there is the added bonus of the crystal clear sea water to swim in.
Coles Bay (on the Freycinet peninsula) is located midway down Tasmania's east coast. The township of Coles Bay is about 2-3 hours drive from Launceston or Hobart. The fastest way to get there from Hobart is to travel on the Tasman Highway through Sorell, then drive to a clearly marked turn off to Coles Bay about 20 minutes past Swansea. Drive through Coles Bay and take a left turn along the Sleepy Bay road, follow this until you reach the signposted turn off to Bluestone Bay (just before the Cape Tourville lighthouse comes into sight). This is a 4WD track but it is possible to get in using a 2WD without too much difficulty.
Most of the bouldering has been done in the White Water Wall area, which is inside the Coles Bay National Park. You are required to pay park entry fees, if you are planning on staying more than a few days, it is worth getting a year pass to the National Park, worth about $18.
Most people camp at the end of the Bluestone Bay Road at the campground above Whitewater Wall. There is a toilet here but you need to provide your own water. Other camping facilities exist in Coles Bay and there are also a few hotels and houses available for rent. There are two shops, a bakery, and a service station in Coles Bay.
At present there are three developed bouldering areas, Harlequin Buttress, The Pharos and the Bain Marie.

Sleepy Bay

There has been some bouldering done on the coast at Sleepy Bay, but the rock is not the best. To get to Sleepy Bay drive into the National Park and take the first left. Drive for a couple of minutes over the hill and park at the car park.

Sleepy Bay Roof

From the car park follow the walking track for 50m until you get to a hand rail with a gulch down below. Scramble down into the gulch to find this roof just above sea level. There is potential for 4-5 more problems on this roof. 1. Hardcore Soft Porn V3 (SDS)
Sitstart on good holds under roof and climb out
2. THE PRICE OF GOD
About 4m left of Hard soft Porn is a problem with two varient sitstarts.

Double undercling with big move right to sharp shitty hold then up to jugs,
not recommended for sensitive tips

Underworld Boulders

Keep going along the track down to the gravely beach. From here follow the coast around southwards for 200m to find some boulders and walls which are about 50m to the north of the Underworld.This slab is about 50m before the main walls. 1. V2 (Stand)
Traverse break L-R 2. V2 (Stand)
Jump to break and top out 3. V3 (Stand)
Flake 4. V1 (Stand)
Flake 5. V3 (Stand)
From jug above bulge crank up and leftThese are the shorter walls to the right at the main area. 1. V1 (Stand)
2. V3 (Stand)
3. V1 (SDS)
4. V2 (SDS)
This is the main wall. I don't know if any of these lines have been done - they are very high and hard.

The Sea Level Traverse

There are a lot of walls, caves and free standing boulders along the Sea Level Traverse. The Traverse goes for several kilometres south along the coastline from Sleepy Bay. There are parts of the traverse that are quite tricky, especially if there is a swell running. There is a reasonable amount of potential here, but only a small amount of development has been done so far.

Stud City Limits Area

These square cut walls are found about 50m before the Horizontal Chimney, about 20-30 minutes along the traverse. The problems are good training for Hazards Main Wall, which looms menacingly above. 1. V? (Highball, Stand)
Project 2. V1 (Stand)
Face using pocket 3. Stud City Limits V4/5 (SDS)
Awkward sitstart below bulgey arete 4. V2 (Stand)
Leftwards flake 5. V3 (Stand)
Black slab 1. V0 (Stand)
Slab 2. V2 (Stand)
Slab 3. V3 (Stand)
Seam to slab 4. V2/3 (Stand)
Jugs to mantle 5. V3 (SDS)
Sitstart on undercling to jugs 6. V2 (Stand)
Dyno from break to top 7. VE (SDS)
Jugs

Honeymoon Bay

There is some bouldering here on the large granite boulder. Easy problems can be done up the slabby side and a slightly harder problem exists (about V3) which can be done up the slightly overhanging face.

Carp Bay Point

There are some very nice white boulders at the end of Carp Bay Point waiting for development.

Mt Amos

There are hundreds of boulders scattered around the flanks of Mt Amos. Unfortunately there are very few decent problems on them. There are some nice ones on the very summit that have good problems.

Little Bluestone Bay

Little Bluestone Bay has some good bouldering on nice white granite. To get there take a right hand turn down the 4WD track just before Whitewater Wall and follow the track south to the coast.The following blocks are immediately to the left from where the track meets the coast. 1. V8 (SDS)
2. V3/4 (SDS)
3. Captain Pugwash V4/5 (SDS)

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Coles Bay bouldering