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Currently the description for Exocet reads:

★★★ 38. Exocet  48m  26  
A total classic. 1. 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2. 18m 26. The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3. 10m 17. The nice hand and offwidth to the top.
G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.

It should read:

★★★ 38. Exocet  48m  26  
A total classic. 1. 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then build a gear belay at a comfortable stance in the corner. 2. 18m 26. Climb the pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner to a DBB. Note that the bolt that protects the crux moves around the corner is missing and while the route is still adequately protected for the leader, a fall from the crux by the second will result in a massive swing into space and an obligatory prussic up the rope. 3. 10m 17. Follow the nice hand crack to the top.
G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.

Note:

1) No DBB atop P1

2) Missing crux bolt

3) P3 has no OW

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11 Comments

  1. Joshua Janes AUTHOR

    Append the following to the description for The Holy Grail:

    The route has no anchor; lower from the last bolt with a 70m rope or top out and rappel Highway to Hell.

  2. Joshua Janes AUTHOR

    Currently the gear list for The Sorcerer reads:

    Gear List:
    • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots
    • 2x 30cm quick draws
    • 1x 60cm quick draw
    • 14x quick draws
    • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling
    • A ton of Psyche!

    I would simplify it to read:

    Gear List:
    • Single set of cams from .2 to .5 Camalots
    • 8x quick draws
    • 2-4x 60cm slings
    • A ton of Psyche!
     
     
  3. Thanks josh. I wonder what happened to the bolt(s) on Exocet? 

    1. Joshua Janes AUTHOR

      Great question.

      With regards to the DBB - why one would exist to begin with is puzzling as it would be pretty much right on No More Mr Nice Guy and could be considered a retrobolt. Perhaps someone else thought that too and chopped it? I saw no evidence of the missing anchor however and the gear for the belay is bomber and straightforward. Another explanation is there never was one and this was simply recorded wrong to begin with.

      With regards to the crux bolt, I did see what looked like a 3/8" hole in the obvious location - as if the bolt had been removed. Perhaps this bolt could simply be reinstalled in the existing hole (but I didn't inspect the hole to see if there was still a cone or sleeve in there or anything.)

      My unsolicited 2 cents:  There is absolutely no need for the DBB; if there ever was one, no one should bother replacing it. The crux pro bolt, however, could stand to be replaced. But if I was doing the job I would seek permission to replace it a bit higher and further right - as I mentioned the crux is adequately protected for the leader with gear, but moving the bolt a bit would really help a second to try the crux moves without fear of swinging off the route irrecoverably.

      Lastly, I wonder if Nick Hancock could shed some light on these bolts as he more recently established a (spectacular) direct start to the pitch...?

      1. are you talking about the line that starts down and right of it

        1. Joshua Janes AUTHOR

          Yes that's the one (Down Under). Just realized it was your route, not Nick's - apologies.

          1. no problem.  i thought there was only one line there.  I'm glad you enjoyed your trip to tassie

  4. Joshua Janes AUTHOR

    Here's another significant correction... The description for Blank Generation currently reads:

    ★★★ 10. Blank Generation  60m  22  
    No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt, A pumpy number! Best done as one pitch skipping the DUB.
    1. 30m 22Up and R into the varied crack just right of the arête following this to ledge then back left of arête for 5m to DUB (the original route and belay are marked on the topo but the DBB of Blind Vision is easily accessed).
    2. 20m 20Follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Continue up crack above (crux) to ledge (Trad anchor) Use DUB left of ledge to descend.
    G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.

    It should read:

    ★★★ 10. Blank Generation  60m  22  
    No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt, A pumpy number! Best done as one pitch skipping the DUB.
    1. 30m 22Up and R into the varied crack just left of the arête following this to ledge then left 2m to DUB (the original route and belay are marked on the topo but the DBB of Blind Vision is easily accessed).
    2. 20m 20Follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Continue up crack above (crux) to ledge and trend left to DUB to descend.
    G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.

    Note: Climb is entirely left of the arete.

    1. That was my typo, i've updated the route and topo to show it correctly left of the arete.

  5. hey Joshua
    The bolt on the 2nd pitch of exocet was removed on abseil by some one.  In my opinion a silly move.  After all it was in a great spot for a leader and a 2nd. 

  6. Thanks for all those corrections Joshua, wish more people would provide feedback like this!

    I've updated Exocet description (need a new topo for that area, someone will need to kayak out the front to take it, i'm a cat thus don't deal well with water.

    I've updated Blank Generation description and topo.

    I've updated The Holy Grail (need a topo for this area, i'll sort that when i'm out there next)

    For The Sorcerer i'll leave the gear beta as is for now, gear beta is different per person so suggesting more gear can't hurt i suppose (smile)

    I think that covers everything.