Blog

Anyone climbing this summer on the Pipes in places other than Northern Buttress will have noticed that routes are becoming easier to access. Despite early fears amongst some members of the local climbing community, I think that most folks would agree that the result is relatively low impact on the environment for the gains. Most of the tracks heading up from the Organ Pipes Track - actually all but the Northern Buttress track - start up scree slopes. For one particular route - access to The Flange - the route has been noticeably widened. Most of the others have had a bit of scrub removed to make the route a bit more obvious and easier to follow.

The Hobart City Council track workers have now nearly finished what they started back in December. A few more bits of clearing, a bit of rock pitching below Great Tier and placement of the signs on the top of the mountain showing the routes down to the Amphitheatre, etc is all that remains to be done.

Below are some photos showing:

• signage on the main Organ Pipes track leading up to one of the buttresses:

• a sign showing two tracks diverging partway up to the cliff:

• before and after at the base of Blue Meridian (a little work still needs to be done):

• and a photo of an old geezer in the same place, giving a perspective on how this actually relates to people on the track:

Cheers

Doug

I propose a new trad route grading system inspired by the superior ethical standards of Simon Young - it's called SIMON STYLE or 'SS' for short (no connection to that Nazi paramilitary organization).

All trad routes could be given an `SS' rating depending how they compare to the commonly held standard Simon has encountered in his worldwide travels and by which he practices.

The three ratings are like the star system:

SSS - SUPER SIMON STYLE.. The triple `S' rating is for routes done ground-up with no rap inspection or cleaning, for those first ascensionists who rose to the challenge and took the rock at face value and just climbed it in its natural state, onsight. This is the ultimate style, though naked and solo should rate a SSSS rating - SALUBRIOUS SUPER SIMON STYLE. I can't remember the last time I put up a new route in SSS style, but I think it was some poxy crack up the Gorge.

SS - SIMPLE SIMON STYLE. A double `S' rating is not as super, sensational, stellar or superior as a `SSS' route. Something like `Running On Air' at Mt Anne which Simon and Alex did - a noble attempt at super Simon style, but fell short because of one hang on the crux pitch.

S - SHIT SIMON STYLE. A single `S' rating is for trad routes done in shit style such as rap inspection, cleaning and trundling the line prior to climbing, tantamount to sanitizing the trad experience - you might as well place a bolt.It doesn't matter that the route was led placing gear on lead and flashed without a fall - its still Shit Simon Style. This would include all Gerry's routes on Ben Lomond this summer - absolute shit. As for trad routes on pre-placed gear, or dogging the gear in before redpoint, that is lower than shit; that would be stinking, shocking, substandard shit Simon Style (another category?)

So next time you put up a new trad route consider Simon Style and assess whether your route was super, simple or shit according to what SIMON SAYS.

hi there!

i am coming tomorrow to hobart for 10 days. give me a call (0434703159) when the weather is fine and you want to go rockclimbing.

i got a belt and shoes with but no rope and quickdraws. my grade is 20, my age 25 and my weight 71kg.

cheers

greg

Ocun zeeper climbing harness - size S - excelent condition. $50

No signs of fray or major wear and tear. A very comfortable and well made harness, just gathering dust at my place so looking for a new owner to take it places! For specs check this link http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Essential_Equipment/Harnesses/Adjustable/Zeeper_2468.html

climb.jpg

Hi all,

I'm wondering how common carrot bolts are in Tassie (Particularly around Freycinet)? Up here in SE Queensland they pop up often enough to necessitate carrying some bolt plates on most trips, but I'm hoping to avoid bringing more metal than I need to Tassie next week if it's not needed at all...

Thanks!

Hi all. I'm very excited to be heading to Tassy for my first climbing trip next week. I was just wondering if anyone could advise whether there are suitable trees for setting up a hammock near the climbers hut at Ben Lomond and at the Bluestone Bay campsite at Freycinet? I've got a backup tent packed at the moment but I'd like to not take it if possible.

ta

Good morning,

we're a group of climbers traveling around Tasmania  until the 9th of march. We already did some climbing at Hillwood, Bare Rock, South Sisters and at the Star Factory.

As we are a group of 3, we always look for other climbers who are keen in joining us for a day or a longer period. We got a 4WD, all the essential gear and are interested in sport and trad climbing. At the moment we're staying in Launceston but like to travel on towards Hobart at the end of this week.

I am also looking for a climbing partner for the Totem Pole as I'd love to do this climb, but unfortunately my two mates aren't keen in this grade. If you're interested in this famous climb as well, please let me know.

If you're just looking for a day trip or a short climbing holiday, feel free to contact us.

Just text to David 0467320412

Cheers

Hi I'd like to buy some climbing holds, preferably big jugs, but will consider other types.  Please send an email to bellabw@gmail.com

Thanks! Bella

We just got back from an attempt on Deeper Water (27). After great success involving a flash of the crux pitch we encountered some strangeness that forced us to rap to the ground and bivy at the base of the cliff- very uncomfortable. In the morning we quickly found and used the controversial track established by the Base Jumpers to retreat. The hike out was easy although navigating by headtorch without prior knowledge of the track would be extremely difficult and not recommended. We were a bit weary and carrying much gear but still made it to the top of Deeper Water in a little over 2 hours having never used the track before. The point of all this is to let everyone know that it is not suicide to rap the route, pull your ropes and go for an onsight. If you can not climb out, you can easily rap to the ground and follow a well marked established track to the top. So no more 300+ meters of fixed ropes required. The track has been cut whether you like it or not (personally I don't), but since it has already been cut, we might as well use it. There are three days of perfect weather left out there and chalk on the route! Get amongst it!

Hi All,

Just after some advice. Will be going on a trip to Bluestone Bay this weekend with a couple of friends and was just after some rack advice from the more experienced among you. We'll be mainly climbing the beginner stuff on Lassies Wall and hoping to climb some of the easier routes on White Water Wall esp. Alpine (in two pitches). I've got a basic rack with BD cams 0.5 - 4 with doubles of the smaller four sizes by DMM, One set of BD stoppers and a bunch of alpine/quickdraws slings etc. Will this be adequate or should we double on stoppers? Not really a fan of huge run-outs Any advice would be welcome as we haven't climbed out there before and haven't lead trad on granite at all!

Cheers,

Mani

Looking for people to go climbing with at Ben Lommond from the 28th of Feb to the 2nd of March,

I won't be available to contact until the 24th of February.

Give me a call if your interested.

Ph: 0423812670

This is going back a bit -1986. Access over Southern Ranges.

Only other routes known are 'Precipitous Arete' (23) by Steve Monks and Jane Wilkinson in 1994 (access by South Coast Track)

and one by Ross Taylor and friend (summer 2012.) Access by South Coast track from Melaleuca.

Locations of these two climbs are not known as yet.(10/02/13)

The Molesworth bushfire is now well within the boundary of the park, and is burning uncontrolled on the north side of the range.

From

http://www.police.tas.gov.au/community-alerts/95/wellington-park-mt-wellington/

and

http://www.fire.tas.gov.au/Show?pageId=incidentItem&h=false&viewIncidentUpdateID=84603035192620

BUSHFIRE WATCH & ACT MESSAGE

There is a  large  bushfire at  Glen Dhu Road, MOLESWORTH .

The fire danger rating in this area is  forecast to be high tomorrow. Fire under these conditions can be  uncontrollable and unpredictable .

This fire may affect the communities of  Ironstone Gully, Ringwood Road, Mount Hull Road, Collins Road, Suhrs Road, Valley Road, Myrtle Forest Road, Fehlbergs Road, Old Springdale Road, Springdale Road and Fairy Glen Road .

This bushfire is currently not controlled.

This bushfire may create spot-fires ahead of the main fire. These spot fires may threaten your home earlier than the predicted main fire front. 

There may be embers, smoke and ash falling on Ringwood Road, Ironstone Gully, Suhrs Road, Glenlusk, Collinsvale and Mount Wellington areas.

Roads may be affected by smoke and motorists are advised to drive carefully and turn on headlights. 

Reported Road Closures: Pinnacle Road is closed from Bracken Lane overnight due to heavy smoke, however will reopen at 8am tomorrow (Sunday 10 February). Mount Hull Road at the junction of Collins Cap Road is closed to the public (excepting residents). Collins Cap Road from the junction of Tubbs Road to the junction of Springdale Road is closed to all traffic, except emergency services. Glen Dhu Road, Molesworth Road, Tubbs Road and Wyre Forest Road are closed to the public (excepting residents).   

 For up to date information on road closures for this fire refer to Tasmania Police website at Road and Park Closures - Collinsvale Area.

------------------

Wellington Park. Mt Wellington.

Saturday, 9 February 2013 - 9:47am. Updated Saturday, 9 February 2013 - 12:42pm

 The Wellington Park Management Trust has closed all tracks and trails leading to the summit of Mount Wellington, including the following 

For more detailed information and updates please visit the following website - http://www.wellingtonpark.org.au/

• Pinnacle Road is Closed from Bracken Lane
• Collins Cap fire trail.
• Collins Cap track.
• Myrtle Forest Track.
• Collins Bonnet Track.
• Jefferys Track.
• Big Bend fire trail.
• Myrtle Forest picnic area.
• Glenorchy Mountain Bike park.
• North - South Track (north of the junction with Old Hobartians track)
• Mountain River trail;
• Cathedral Rock track 
• Betts Hill track 
• Pipeline track beyond Neika Milles 
• Old Montagu fire trail
• Thark Ridge Route

• East-West fire trail

  
  

hey guys,

my friend Thomas accidently left 2 cams (0.75 camalot and 1? wild country friend) at the top of Second Coming 25 at the Ampethetre ledge.

couple of guys repeated this later in the afternoon, one sounded french. I was on the top of skyrocket.....and friendly words exchanged but i forgot to go down and get them. if anyone knows these guys it would be great if they can get in contact with me. I am staying at CJs or my no. is 040285567

Cheers,

Grosey

I'm looking now for climbing partners to Launceston and Hobart, ... to climb mainly multi pitch routes. I'm leaving Tassie the 18th of february. I have full rack and ropes.See you soon.

Nicolas Pietrenko. Tel : 0499724266.