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Back from our mainland trip. Di's doing a tidy-up and tried it on for me to get rid of some of the old climbing mags that are hanging about the place. So, randomly, the first thing I pulled off the shelf was Peaks 3. Flipping through I was delighted by the wealth of "stuff" that's in the magazine. For those more recent to the scene (this edition was published in 1980  ) and who aren't aware, this mag was published here in Tasmania. Didn't last very long, but was very rich and dense in content, so much more than we get with Rock. Great value for a yearly subscription of $12. Unfortunately, not enough people saw its true worth, and it very quickly faded from view, probably because of the predominance of Tasmanian contributions and the mixture of content - poems for example! (What was Bob thinking: we occasionally get this sort of stuff in Alpinist, but mainstream mags like Climbing are too afraid to touch such esoteric material.)

A few short extracts to give a glimpse into what was going on at the time:

Sphinx Rock by Phil Bigg

"Until recently this little crag had only three recorded climbs ... after a little remodelling the number has tripled ... Sphinx Rock still holds several more potential routes which will only be a matter of time before their secrets are unlocked". (Boy, was he right about that!)

Hazards Traverse Update - An Adventure For Everyman by Tony McKenny

"And what a route! Curtains of red granite sweeping up out of the sea, sliced and sculptured by storm waves into massive crescent overhangs and sharp corners, stretching as far as the eye could see. Magnificent scenery, truly awe inspiring - if a little unnerving in the unnatural quiet. The bushfires of last summer had swept right down to sea level leaving no trees, only the black twisted branches of bull-oak, with not a bird to be seen or heard". (What lyricism, Tony! We'd like to see more of this!)

Mt Field (poem) by David Bowman

"Below him lies the valley/ The distant green carpet is rent/ It is transfixed by the cold steel lance of economics/ The terror of normality/ The forest is haggard/ It dies the death of development" (Still timely, don't you think?)

There was a great article on developments at Fingal, news posts from other states, an article about climbing in Poland, an article from Nick Mooney about peregrine falcons with photos, New Zealand, the Alps and so on.

What I am thinking is that it would be great if we could see a bit more of the richness of our shared climbing experience in thesarvo. Some more write-ups of the excellent adventures that people are having. A gritty little poem or two. People posting photos in blogs too - here, in thesarvo rather than elsewhere  - to whet our appetites. Here, in a communal site for all of us to own and enjoy.

Ian Ferrier's post on his recent trip to Cradle was great to see, especially with the subsequent photos added. More please!

BTW, Di's attempt to get me to toss out all the old mags has been retracted once I shared with her some of these snippets. 

Hi Guys

Just back from a trip to the mainland and have finally realised that I just can't fit into a pair of shoes that I bought - optimistically - quite a while back. I've tried to make them fit, but they just won't, at least not at the comfort level that I'd prefer. They've only been used a half dozen to a dozen times at the absolute most. A few times in the now-defunct Climbing Edge, a couple of times at Freuhauf and Waterworks and only a couple of short routes at Arapiles are the only instances that I can think of where they've been laced on. Just a little bit tight and 

They are sized at Euro 42. As a guide, I have been wearing size 41 La Sportiva Miuras, which are just about right. Here's a link to these particular shoes at Evolv's website: http://www.evolvesports.com/PONTAS-LACE.htm

They are in excellent - and very clean! - condition. I think that $75 is a very fair price, but will consider something lower if they don't move quickly as they are of no use to me. I'll have them at the Stanley Burbury Theatre on Thursday if I've still got them by then.

Call me on 0407 310 287 if you're interested.

Here's a couple of photos to whet your appetite:

So with summer fast approaching its time to cast your mind forward to all those classic new rock climbs your going to put up. i have for sale my battery drill for your new-routing/rebolting pleasure.

its a 24v Ramset DD524 Hammer Drill (the real deal!)
it comes with two 2.4Ah ni-cad battery packs in good condition, you'll get about 16 holes in dolerite per battery
am thinking $250 ono is a fair price

more than happy to give a bolting lesson to the buyer if your not sure you have the skills but wish to learn!!

dont hesitate to call me for a chat about it!

simon young
0407 356 556

Hi, is anyone qualified to guide and/or instruct ice / snow technique on Cradle at all? Thanks.

Warning - car vandalism today whilst climbing at Meehan Range (yes we should have known better....)

On return to cars parked at the 'locked' gate - currently rammed open to assist in illegal wood cutting - we found ourself with 3 slashed tyres between the 2 cars. Police were notified. A chainsaw was being used in the area so presumably they couldn't help themselves as they departed. I'm now hoping that karma really does work.

With all the new route development there has been a fair bit of traffic at the cliff recently (9 climbers last Sunday). Andrew Martin who owns the property at the base of the cliff, has some important access information which people need to be aware of when visiting Bare Rock. See the climb northern tasmania blog. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2011/07/25/important-bare-rock-fingal-access-information/

Climbed the Fury Gully Ice route on saturday, was in absolutely brilliant condition.  The lower section was solid snow ice for around 6 pitches (60m ea) with the 7th pitch travelling over solid water ice in tiers flowing down the rock slabs which was plenty thick enough for screws.  Route finished just near the summit cairn.  Well worth an outing, especially if you wait for a couple of clear days to ensure the snow approach is frozen as well.  We even needed crampons just to get to the base of the route as the snow slope leading to it was bullet proof.  We took around 10 hrs return from the Dove lake car park, and while we skied accross the plateau, if the snow remains firm, walking would be just as quick, descent was by the normal walkers route, that may also require crampons if it stays frozen..

See the blog below for photos of new routes at Bare Rock. 6 routes done between 24-28, and 10 more projects on the go. Unfortunately cliff closed from August to December for Peregrine falcon nesting. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/fingal-new-route-action-photos-2/

  Near new 5 Ten Anasazi VCS (onyx) rock climbing shoes. Only been worn 10 times. Edges ar in mint condition.
Thought they may stretch but too tight. Perfect condition, hate to sell but want more comfortable shoe.
Perfect sport clombing shoe.
 
Size: US 7.5
        UK 6.5
        EUR 40
 
Item in launceston, Tas
0429776538
$90

This is a blog aimed at updating Climb Tasmania's series of guidebooks as new routes and cliff development occurs. Where possible updates are linked to the indexes in existing guidebooks. The first 2 updates which appear are the 2 Ben Lomond Guide updates which have appeared previously, so nothing new at the moment: but keep an eye out for the amazing new developments at Bare Rock, Fingal to be published soon once the projects have been climbed. http://climbnortherntasmania.wordpress.com/

Hi

This post is not relative to Tasmania, but the climbing community is so small that I think it would be appropriate to post it here as well. Some of you might have met Clint maybe briefly at Frog Buttress, or even in Tassie, others knew him pretty well. He was a really nice bloke, and really helpfull from the short amount of time I spent with him. Unfortunately, he passed on 2 weeks ago while equipping a new route he was absolutely psyched about. He wanted to dedicate this route to his mother, and sold one van to equip the route.

While on a rescue mission with SES people 10 days ago (28/06/2011) , we found his body laid on the ground. It is believed that while drilling, he tried the moves, keeping falling and jummaring up ... his 9mm static got cut on a sharp edge. He then fell for 40 or more meters, landed on a ledge, removed his harness (dunno how much time later) stood up, got daisy, and fell for another 20 30m.

This is a pretty sad news, another one ... in the climbing community. Could this have been avoided, I don't know. A bigger rope would not have resisted I guess, 2 ropes would have been better (but not practical while on a solo mission), pads to protect sharp edges ? May this accident change our behaviours toward security, which we might neglect too much sometimes.

He died following his dreams, hope someone will finish his route.

Rest in peace Clint

Loz
post on Qurank

http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/5695/Clint-Fatal-Mt-Greville-accident-was-Clint-is-missing\-

Pair of scarpa climbing shoes left at Waterworks Thurs 30 June. Hopeing somebody has picked them up.

Hi Guys and Girls

I'm after people to climb with in Hobart. I'm happy to do rockclimbing but I'd also like to meet people who are are keen on mountaineering and interested in expeditions overseas South America/Nepal etc. I have a lot of time off mid week at the moment so anyone that has days off in the week and is keen to climb then hit me up. Also trying to find some info on Caving? Have never done it before but interested in having a go if there is anyone with a background in it?

Cheers

Mark 0466583838

Heard through the grapevine that Pete (old chisel fingers) Woolford made a quick despatch of 'My left Foot', a tough little boulder problem at Sandfly on the weekend.   Waiting for him to offically confirm the grade.

Hello Everyone,

Please see the below link regarding GriGri2 recall

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/recall-replacement-grigri-2

Cheers

Anna