A lonely left foot 5.10 Siren.
A pair of blue 5.10 velcro Anasazi were found today at the base of the Northern Buttress below the rap station. I can leave them at Rock It for collection if convenient or meet otherwise.
Received this today from the HCC:
Great Short Walk Project works – notification of forthcoming track and road closures
City of Hobart is writing to inform you of track maintenance works on kunanyi / Mt Wellington that require closure of the Organ Pipes track, and intermittent disruptions to connecting tracks and traffic on Pinnacle Road.
The Climbers track from Pinnacle road will remain open except during helicopter operations (see below)
The works are part of the Rejuvenating the Great Short Walk project. The overall objective is to provide a 2-3 hour walk suitable for people with some bushwalking experience and of average fitness.
What does the track work mean for you?
- The Organ Pipes Track between The Chalet and Sawmill track will be closed from 20 March until May 2017
- The Pinnacle Track will be closed from Spring 2017
- There will be fewer car parking spaces at Big Bend and The Chalet during the work
- Pinnacle Road, above The Springs, will be closed from 10 pm until 10 am once or twice a week between March and May 2017, on safety grounds to allow for the helicopter transport of materials prior to 9.30am in the mornings.
- Proposed helicopter flight dates are listed on the project website, with actual flight dates weather dependant
- Walking tracks under the flight path will be closed during helicopter flight times, as shown in the map on theproject website.
The City has been particularly mindful of the disruption these works will cause park users including tour operators and has scheduled the works to reduce the inconvenience as much as practicable.
Proposed helicopter flight times have been scheduled around cruise ship days. Flights will also be concluded by 10am to open access to Pinnacle Road for the rest of the day.
Should you have further queries about the project, please feel free to contact email@example.com or phone 6238 2886.
Executive Officer Parks and City Amenity | City Government Unit
This is just a request that everyone be mindful of their language and/or volume when climbing at Fruehauf. It's an unusually 'public' crag, especially since the vegetation clearance, and apparently some of the residents along the rivulet are more prudish about salty language than climbers.
It's fantastic that the council and residents are on-board with maintaining this as a great local climbing resource, and the onus is on us as climbers to maintain that good relationship.
(I include myself in this request - I know that I'm as potty-mouthed as anyone.)
From Lisa Cawthorn and Carrie:
Fruehauf Crag Care Working Bee!
To continue the fantastic work completed by the climbing community and the City of Hobart at Fruehauf last year, the first Crag Care session for 2017 is on soon! Come along and lend a hand if you’re keen to be involved in caring for this popular crag.
- Where: Fruehauf Crag, Tara Street, Hobart Rivulet Park, South Hobart
- When: Sunday 5 March, 2-4:30PM. Please note that the cliff will be unavailable for climbing during the working bee for volunteer safety.
- What will we be doing? Removing planting bags, hand weeding and a general tidy-up around the base of the crag.
- What should you bring? If you’re keen to help out with some of the weeding, please wear trousers and a long-sleeved shirt.
We’ll have a cuppa and some bikkies at the end of the event to celebrate our hard work – if you have any dietary requirements, please let us know.
You’ll need to register as a volunteer with the City of Hobart (it’s easy!). For volunteering information, please contact the City of Hobart’s Bushcare Coordinator Lisa Cawthen atBushcare@hobartcity.com.au
Or you can sign up on the day.
Hope to see you there!
If you didn't know....February marks the 40th anniversary of the first ascent of Rysavy Ridge on Mt Roland, and it seems like a good excuse for climbers around the state to get together.
Sooooo....the CCT has decided to celebrate the occasion by organising a “meet”, from Friday 24th Feb through to Sunday 26th Feb, open to all climbers state wide.
A reminder: This is not a beginner meet and climbers attending are expected to have the necessary skills, equipment, and experience suitable for any climbing activity they choose to participate in.
Talked to Steve at Mt Roland and he has several beds, floor space and space in barns etc for people to sleep in if they want, plus space for maybe 4 tents.
BBQ sat night, bring your own meat and wine, and if you have a 4 wheel drive, save your legs (and time) and drive to top of paddock. He has a land cruiser and is willing to give lifts up! C u there.
PS Unless weather is rubbish.
PPS Let me know if you need a lift/have a car space and I will try to broker deals
Yesterday Mark and myself replaced the half rap rope with a full length line that now goes right to the bottom, using the blue semi-static supplied by CJ from the cammo box. I plan on going back there asap in the next week or 2 to cut the remaining length from the top rap anchors, cut the existing black/red line, and take them back up to the cammo box for spare lines like eventually replacing the two jug lines with the remaining blue rope, and the other red/black for the safety lines at the cliff base or something like this. I will re-tie the top rap rope into the rings once I've cut the rope. If anyone plans on doing this before i get another chance please leave my wire gates in the cammo box.
Please don't rap down this line at any speed and melt it, no matter how desperate you are to get to the bottom, unless you are going to buy and replace this rope yourself. Use your brain(if you have one).
Thanks for the rope CJ.
My wife and i have just moved to hobart from the UK. Both keen rock climbers. I lead trad to British E1 and to 6c on bolts. The grade conversion chart tells me that is somewhere around 18 for trad and 22 for sport, although i have never trusted these charts. Been climbing for about 15 years, started on bolted swiss limestone then moved to the UK and started trad climbing (~8 years ago). I live in sandy bay, hobart. Got a car, and climbing has just arrived. Now just looking for some people to go explore Tasmania's rock with.
0473027600 or cloudsrule9(at) gmail.com
I'm going to Europe for 6 months this year, and keen to find some partners who could join me for part of the trip. I have a vehicle and climbing gear. Here is the itinerary, but this would be flexible to fit in with your plans as well.
Kalymnos: last two weeks April
Southern France: 3 weeks in May
Northern Spain: Riglos and Picos for couple weeks
UK: 2 months JUne and July
Chamonix, Switzerland: August
Dolomites, Val de Mello: September.
La Sportiva Muria (R) size 42.5
Looks like it's been there at least a few months. Claim it if it's yours, or claim it if it's not but you want it - otherwise it's going in the bin
I'm over from the mainland for a family do and happy to find out my older cousins climb a bit only on top rope. So I brought my rack along to drag him up a easy trad route. He's not keen on big epics . So any suggestions for around orford or Hobart. I was thinking some of the smaller crags on Mt wellington
just to let you know I have just uploaded a guide for a new cliff on Bruny island, at Cloudy Bay. Check it out if you're interested, and any feedback/advice re layout and info, style etc welcomed.
An incident occured today that made me question my actions for a second. Only a second.
I thought this would be a good place to share and get some other peoples opinions on the matter.
Before I start I just want to say that neither me or my friends go around tossing rocks off the top of cliffs all willy nilly, I did this because I dindnt want to hear about some poor sod getting pulverized in the future
I was climbing at lower tear drop gully on the pipes with my mates today. Two teams of two and we climbed Farewll to Arms and Into the fire. Both are great trad routes and one gets three stars in the guide so I'm guessing its a fairly popular spot (probably not though). I lead farwell to arms and noticed an incredably precarious boulder at the belay. It just bigger than a carton of beer. I knocked it and it wobbled and I could tell it was just perching on the edge. If anyone was to pull on it the thing was coming down onto them or the belayer but most likely both. I put a huge x on it with chalk and when my second came up I screamed not to touch it. Two friends were climbing Into the Fire at the same time. This route shares the same belay point and if someone topping out on this route touched the boulder it would be good night belayer and climber too. I also screamed at this friend not to touch it. Lots of screaming. We switched routes and the second time at the belay I brushed the rock and it almost went geronimo. Then and there we decided the thing had to go. It seemed super likley that sooner or later someone would pull this thing down. It didnt take much, only a slight tap and gravity did the rest
Now i knew it was a big rock but boy did it go. On its way down it free fell the 30m of the route and landed on a vegetated terrace. Here it knocked down two massive eucalypts fully uprooting them and ripped through a huge amount of scrub. It then bounced and landed 20m further down the gully. Here it made a huge cavity 1m or so in diameter and almost 1m deep in what i think was a tussok at some stage. The surrounding soil was blown apart and it kind of looked like a land mine had gone off. We had a look at the damage after and it was pretty massive. Hectic some might say.
I'm glad I did it because it was a death trap and I felt it my obligation. That said it opens up some interesting questions. As climbers we have responsibilities to tread lightly and reduce our impact especially in parks like Mt Wellington. Does this kind of action fall short of those responsibilities? is the safety of our fellow climbers paramount? Is there a level of risk with rocks that affords them to be hurled and others not? Is there a better way to go about it? How long does a sub alpine eucalypt take to grow?
What do you think?, begin discourse.
Stay safe out there.
Mt Murchisnon, West Coast
I will soon add a little thesarvo guide entry for this mountain, which will include an access topo and some other routes from past epochs.
E Lucevan Le Stele.
This is the large north-facing buttress inside the Mt Murchison Crater. Access: follow Mt M summit track then descend to small hanging lake inside the crater, 300m altitude below summit trig. Descent via walk off down wide gully 50m east of Acrasia; OR abseil from bollard into narrow gully 25m east of Acrasia (one 50m abseil into gully, then another 50m abseil down steep gully).
Acrasia (aka ‘Original Route’) 130m Grade 18 **
Takes the walls and roofs 50m left of Lost Arrow corner.
Rack: standard traditional rack.
Start: The narrow arête on the far left side of ELLS buttress.
- 40m 17. Climb up on arête for 5m then transition to the left wall and up this for 15m following left leaning crack line until it finishes at right leading horizontal weakness. Traverse right back to arête (crux), then up through small overhangs right of arête to belay on ledge among overhangs.
- 45m 18. Up corner systems leading towards large blank roof, but tend diagonally left 5m prior to roof heading to weakness where roof is only 0.5m wide (4m run-out). Gear at roof, through this (crux) then up wall to large ledge (possible belay). Off ledge up 3m crack to small roof, but traverse left 3m to avoid it. Up steep wall above (on intermittent cracks, 5m left of large unattractive corner), until a move right into upper section of large corner is possible. Up this 5m to large ledge below overhangs.
- 40m 16. Up right of overhangs then on to top.
Hamish Jackson and Shumita Joseph Feb 2016
Lost Arrow 200m grade 25 ***
This climb was established ground up in one 11 hour push.
Climbs the large, over hanging diagonal corner that splits the prow of the E Lucevan Le Stele. Overhangs about 20m over the first 100m of climbing. Generally excellent rock that accepts good protection.
Rack: generous traditional rack to #3 Camelot size, including 5-10 small cams and 15 extendable draws. Double ropes essential.
Start: approx. 50m right of Acrasia below the weakness through overhang 15m above.
- 30m 24 Steep and sustained, a tad intimidating. Up wall then through 4m roof via right leading horizontal flake. Up and left of hanging block (could not be budged), then right along ledge to belay.
- 20m 22. Up overhanging corner with increasing difficulty (+ damp after rain on FA), then exit left along large diagonal. Belay at base of major corner.
- 25m 20. Up steep corner and cracks, then left along easy diagonal to belay 5m under next hanging corner.
- 40m 25 Extremely exposed and very difficult. Up wall (2m wet patch on FA) to small roof, then through this with difficulty tending left. (Small cams may allow aid though this crux 22 A2?). Continue steeply to upper corner above quartzite band, to find the unlikely traverse across overhanging wall to right arête, and then up easily to large ledge.
- 25m 22. Exposed and technical conglomerate wall climbing. Head up short wall then traverse right 2m to base of corner, then up corner strenuously. As corner ends, follow a faint weakness up and left to gain a thin diagonal crack that leads back right to another large ledge. Phew.
- 45m. Up easier slab left of arête.
Adam Donoghue and Hamish Jackson (var). 22/1/17