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<guide>
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro=""
name="White Stack Area" new="false" rock="White granite, 10-25m"
sun="Morning sun" walk="5 minutes"></header>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">White Stack</text><text
class="description">This is the obvious large outcrop below the clearing 50m past the Lassie's Wall track at the end of the White Water Wall road (although vehicle access is no longer possible). Looking south from White Stack the only decent piece of rock is the Sentry Box, 200m away, and just north of the stack you can see Island Zawn with the detatched buttress of the island standing in it.</text><text
class="description">The White Stack area comprises lower (sea level), middle and upper buttresses, between which is a broad ledge. Mithras finishes on this ledge, and it is possible to scramble to the top from the northern end. Access to the lower cliffs is easiest by abseil from this middle ledge.</text><text
class="Discussion">These climbs are on the upper buttress. They start above the finish of the Mithras.</text><climb
extra="" grade="26" length="15m" name="Kodak Tart" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Up hanging arete at top of White Stack. Two bolt runners with 2 and 3 RP between bolts. A desperate, bouldery start past first bolt leads to easier climbing on the arete. The route is possibly better done as 23M1. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95."> Up hanging arete at top of White Stack. Two bolt runners with 2 and 3 RP between bolts. A desperate, bouldery start past first bolt leads to easier climbing on the arete. The route is possibly better done as 23M1. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="10m" name="Fishcake" number=""
stars=""> The corner crack on the left. N.Deka, R.Hamilton, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="10m" name="Roaring Forty" number=""
stars=""> The companion route to Fishcake and 4m to its right. R.McMahon, N.Smith, J.Richardson, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="10m" name="Tashtego" number=""
stars=""> The leftward trending diagonal on the right face. R.Hamilton, A.Crowd, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="10m" name="Return to Norm-ality" number=""
stars="*"> This is the arete on the right of the ledge, you would have passed under it when you scrambled around. The route follows the arete and scoopy feature to its left. The gear is not great, but probably OK. Small cams in the horizontal after the first few moves and a wire low and right. The crux is standing into the corner and reaching the ledge. Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 00.</climb><text
class="Discussion">Most of the climbs are on the Middle Tier.</text><climb
grade="18" length="15m" name="Windjammer" number=""
stars=""> The obvious corner crack which finishes on the very top of the stack. Various starts have been done to gain the final corner which is the basis of the climb and about 10m high. Thomas, John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980.</climb><text
class="Discussion">These next routes are on the east face. They can be identified by first locating Mithras, a strong roof bound crack lined with bolted routes on either side.</text><climb
grade="18" length="25m" name="Ocean Cruiser" number=""
stars=""> The cracks to the left of the smooth white face which faces east. Climb easily up the wide cracks to gain the chimney. Up this and traverse awkwardly right at its top to finish (there is a variant finish out left by Stephenson and Deka, 1989). K.Bischoff, R.McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="30m" name="Lady Chatterley's Liver" number=""
stars=""> The leaning offwidth corner immediately to the right of the smooth white face. Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="28" length="15m" name="Holiday in Bulimia"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Up broken seam past 3 bolt runners two lines right of Windjammer. The route can apparently be climbed at grade 25 by using the lefthand arete. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95."> Up broken seam past 3 bolt runners two lines right of Windjammer. The route can apparently be climbed at grade 25 by using the lefthand arete. Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 95.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" length="15m" name="Of Jellyfish and Men"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The face route immediately left of Mithras with 3 bolts, thoughtful and tricky slab face climbing. The route starts in the middle of the sub-buttress then heads right to the first bolt. Bolts are a bit weirdly placed, pre-equipping them is a good idea. E.Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reid, Dec 91."> The face route immediately left of Mithras with 3 bolts, thoughtful and tricky slab face climbing. The route starts in the middle of the sub-buttress then heads right to the first bolt. Bolts are a bit weirdly placed, pre-equipping them is a good idea. E.Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reid, Dec 91.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Mithras" number=""
stars="***"> The classic corner off the main ledge, pass roof on left. R.McMahon, K.Lockwood, I.Thomas, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="26" length="15m" name="Febrifuge" number=""
stars="***"> The face right of Mithras. A small camming device protects the bottom moves, followed by 2 bolts then more natural pro. Quite exciting pulling through the roof. E.Peacock, S.Ford, Dec 91.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="15m" name="White Sail" number=""
stars="**"> The line on the left hand side of the north face, which is around the corner to the right of Febrifuge. Up a very awkward, slightly overhanging thin knucklecrack. Straight up this to easier ground and a classic layback flake. Up to the top of this, step left and up the crack to finish. Simon Parsons, Nick Deka, Phil Bigg, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="15m" name="Eskimo Sun Park" number=""
stars="*"> The crack on the right hand side of the face. A handcrack with a small bulge at one third height. Strenuous and flared. Climb straight up the crack. The crux involves a difficult layaway at the bulge. Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="In League with the Devil"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Nick had to strike a deal with a daeity to get a belay and second for this climb. From the end of the ledge (a few meters right of Eskimo Sun Park) hand traverse right for a few meters to enter the bottomless crack. Follow this up past an overlap and into a corner beside a roof. After sneaking a rest head out right past the roof and snatch for the jug. Mantle onto the jug, take a few breaths and proceed up the pleasant wall to finish. A fine, strenuous route with excellent protection ( 00-3 friend, no wires needed). Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 00."> Nick had to strike a deal with a daeity to get a belay and second for this climb. From the end of the ledge (a few meters right of Eskimo Sun Park) hand traverse right for a few meters to enter the bottomless crack. Follow this up past an overlap and into a corner beside a roof. After sneaking a rest head out right past the roof and snatch for the jug. Mantle onto the jug, take a few breaths and proceed up the pleasant wall to finish. A fine, strenuous route with excellent protection ( 00-3 friend, no wires needed). Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 00.</climb><text
class="Discussion">Then on the lower tier</text><climb
grade="20" length="20m" name="Passing Water" number=""
stars=""> The crack rising fron the sea, reached by abseiling from the south end of the lower platform (about 10m south of Holiday in Bulimia) to a pedestal in calm conditions. Robert McMahon, John Fisher, Mar 95.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next three climbs are on a wall starting at sea-level (below a region between 5-15m north of the base of Holiday in Bulimia).</text><climb
grade="19" length="20m" name="The Path of Righteousness"
number=""
stars="*"> The straight hand-crack starting from a hanging belay at water level. Abseil in. Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Aug 02.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="20m" name="Jesus is My Belay Bunny" number=""
stars="**"> On the lowest tier directly below Of Jellyfish and Men, climb the crack starting above a seawashed triangular stance, to a tricky swing left to gain the continuation up The Path of Rightiousness. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 02.</climb><climb
grade="23" length="20m" name="God Ain't Watching" number=""
stars="*"> The flaring crack a few metres right leads to bold moves (the route was rap inspected and top roped before the first ascent) up left to a big jug and creative protection. Make a balancy step up to gain a flake and an easier finish. Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 02.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next climbs are also on the lower tier but are further north.</text><climb
grade="18" length="8m" name="Noddy's Wave" number=""
stars=""> Directly below Eskimo Sun Park. K.Lockwood, I.Thomas, R.McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="20m" name="Losing Acuity" number=""
stars=""> The gritty awkward offwidth corner in the cleft around the corner to the right. Access by abseil. Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Island Zawn</text><text
class="description">People usually abseil to get into Island Zawn. To reach a reasonable abseil point go down from the south. It may be possible to scramble or traverse in from the north also.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length=" 20m"
name="I'm Stuck and I Can't Get Out " new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the gaping off width on the southern side of Island Zawn. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Bloody Obvious"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the clean crack on the left hand side of the east face. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997. [Not quite sure where this fits in with the other routes here - Ed]
</climb><climb
grade="16" length="12m" name="Ilsa" number=""
stars=""> On the south side of the island. At sealevel, were the big smooth boulders start, is a narrow buttress with aplite rock for the first few moves. Iisa goes up the center. A little gem. FA Bill Baxter, Jul 02.</climb><text
class="Discussion">These next few routes are on the east and north faces of the island . Walk around the south side of the island to them.</text><climb
grade="15" length="13m" name="Kepler" number=""
stars=""> Finishes on the obvious orange slab on the front left hand side of the Island Zawn buttress. Climb the short steep crack which continues up through the orange slab. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="Punctam Equans" number=""
stars=""> On the left of the east face as for Kepler. Climb a short line for 4m to gain the left side of the roof, traverse right under the roof and onto the large ledge. Finish by climbing the corner crack at the back of the ledge. Beware of the loose hold on the traverse. R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Simplistic View"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the right-angled groove on the arête to the left of 'Boris'. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997
</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Boris" number=""
stars="**"> The very clean short corner in the middle of the buttress. Laying away and jamming onto the large ledge. Finish up Punctam Equans. B.Yeltsin, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Astronomia Nova" number=""
stars="*"> Halfway between the corner and the edge of the buttress. Up a short left leaning corner and straight up the steep face and shallow corner crack above to a step right and then up an easy crack back to the left to finish. R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="20m" name="Kopernigk" number=""
stars=""> The obvious line just to the right of Astronomia Nova. Up the crack in the corner up a series of steps. This line and Astronomia Nova have a common last 5m. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="20m" name="Swash" number=""
stars=""> Around the corner to the right of the east face is a very impressive corner which starts in the sea. Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="20m" name="Aqua Phobia" number=""
stars=""> Right of Swash.</climb><text
class="Discussion">There are two routes on the short face further to the right. They are short and can be reached by abseiling or by coming in from the north.</text><climb
grade="20" length="16m" name="Solar Plexus" number=""
stars=""> Start in the wee chasm 6m left of the northernmost part of the island. Massive step across from sloping buttress then up diagonal left leaning crack. B.Maddison, R.McMahon, C.Rathbone, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="14" length="15m" name="Aristarchus" number=""
stars=""> Just below and in front of the boulder at the right hand extremity of the island cliff. Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.</climb><text
class="Discussion">There are a number of climbs in Island Zawn behind the island and around towards the base of White Stack. The next two routes are on the stepped buttress just right of the gulch separating White Stack. They make nice exit routes after climbing on the island.</text><climb
grade="14" length="25m" name="Boanthropy" number=""
stars=""> The strong corner 5m right of the deep cleft topped by piled rubble. Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="14" length="25m" name="Lycanthropy" number=""
stars=""> Finishes up the prow 4m right of Boanthropy. Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><text
class="Discussion">High on the first piece of solid rock to the right of this buttress there is the following diagonal line.</text><climb
grade="18" length="15m" name="Narcolepsy" number=""
stars=""> Climb the strong leftwards diagonal up to the bulging crack, and up this to the top. John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Flying V" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb the obvious arête behind Island Zawn, the arête left of 'A Nice day for Kicking Goals'. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997
</climb><climb
grade="16" length="25m" name="A Nice Day for Kicking Goals"
number=""
stars=""> Downhill and 25m right of Narcolepsy on the left side of a wide broken face. Stay a metre or two right of the arete and a metre or two left of the break in the face. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="25m" name="Loose Possums" number=""
stars=""> Up the face to the right of the big division, avoiding large numbers of loose boulders, possums and all the other stuff that goes down as you go up. Worthless. Dave Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="40m" name="IQ Test" number=""
stars=""> The basis of this climb is a fine curving off-width corner which is on the buttress directly opposite the top of the island on the upper part of the buttress. Start on the boulders at the base of the cliff below the crack. Ascend short steep face trending right to gain the corner and straight up this and then traverse off left to a small saddle with a tree to finish. Better than it looks and a good way to escape from Island Zawn. Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="14" length="25m" name="Albion" number=""
stars=""> Two metres right of IQ Test is a chimney crack. 2 metres right of this is another crack, this is Albion. FA Bill Baxter, Jan 98.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="35m" name="Pipeline" number=""
stars=""> Takes a line several metres to the right of IQ Test following a crack up a series of neatly overhanging faces. A dark imposing line. R.McMahon, N.Smith, S.Moon, 1981.</climb><climb
grade="14" length="50m" name="Wavelength" number=""
stars=""> To the right of Pipeline is a beautiful traverse right takes you around the cliffs at about 8 to 10m above sealevel. Just traverse the most likely line. Fun. N.Deka, R.McMahon, M.Ling, N.Smith, 1981.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false" number="null.">Big Zawn</text><text
class="description">Access to the start of these climbs is normally by traversing in from sealevel from the ramp at the base of Lassie's Wall, but it isn't hard to descend at the other end.</text><text
class="description">The next climb is at the far side of Big Zawn and opposite Island Zawn. There is a large clean wall high up with a zig zag groove on its right and a bottomless crack on its left. Access is best facilitated by abseiling to the sloping terrace 10m above the sea.</text><climb
grade="25" length="20m" name="Planet of the Ape Index" number=""
stars="*"> Climb the crack to the right of the wall to a small ledge. From here head out left past three bolts. Eventually the arete is reached after a series of moves very challenging to people with a reach of less than 190cm (may be slightly easier if you've more reach or impossible if you've less). Continue up arete to the top. Gear is three u-bolts and some medium cams. Nick Hancock and a woefully short Andrew Bissett, Aug 01.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next few climbs are on the south side of Big Zawn. They generally face north. The descriptions start at the detatched buttress and work to the right towards the back of the Zawn.</text><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Amanuensis" number=""
stars=""> On the detatched pillar opposite Afternoon Shift. Ascend to the top of pillar. Solo down on the sea side of the pillar (crux). Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1977.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Afternoon Shift" number=""
stars=""> The widening crack right opposite the back of the detatched pillar. Unpleasant. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="20m" name="Bradwalda" number=""
stars=""> Start at the crack just right of the aplite seam on the semi-detatched buttress about 25m right of the detatched buttress. Climb straight up the crack to the top. There is an exciting grade 18 variant which moves right at two thirds height. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="20m" name="Helios" number=""
stars=""> The obvious line just above the finish of Bradwalda. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="20m" name="Dien Bien Phu" number=""
stars=""> Start 25m up the hill to the left of the finish of Bradwalda at the foot of the steep handcrack. Climb through the bulge and up the crack above. When this stops climb the slab above. Garn Cooper, Robert McMahon, Jul 90.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="15m" name="Moby Dick" number=""
stars=""> A variant start to Waterline. The continuation of the diagonal line down to the left. Robert McMahon, K.Bischoff, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="50m" name="Waterline" number=""
stars=""> Located on the left hand end of the wall that faces the land. The line is indicated by a steep slab near the top of the cliff which is split by a good looking crack. Start directly below this, and wander up to gain the crack which is pleasant enough but too short to really compensate for the rest of the climb. Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1980.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next few routes are on the other side of the Zawn and generally face southeast.</text><climb
grade="18" length="30m" name="Old Snossy" number=""
stars=""> Start 5m left of Penetration and 10m left of the back of the zawn, under the overhanging blocks. Up to green sling at 10m then up runout slab above. Ben Maddison, Robert Mcahon, 1979.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="30m" name="Penetration" number=""
stars=""> Deep in the gulch. The prow left of Crime of Passion. Robert McMahon, Jim Duff, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="20" length="50m" name="Crimes of Passion" number=""
stars=""> Located on the opposite wall to Waterline, the back wall of the zawn. It takes the line through the right hand end of the roof at half height. The rock is a bit woeful. Ben Maddison, S.Baker, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="23" length="30m" name="True, Like Ice, Like Fire"
number=""
stars=""> As you traverse into Big Zawn you cross a narrow gap where the sea washes in, to get onto a large boulder. This climb starts from the top of the boulder. The pitons used as protection on the first ascent are no longer present. Bridge and face climb up the thin crack and continue up the ever steepening wall and into a small V-ledge and then up a couple of steps to finish. Robert McMahon, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="20m" name="Fast lane" number=""
stars=""> Just right of the gap. Take the right hand of two possible cracks to gain the overhanging hand cracks. Up this and the face above on the left to finish. Nick Deka, Di Batten, Doug Bruce, Pete Steane, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="20m" name="Lover's Hand" number=""
stars=""> The huge gulch. Nice at the top. Robert McMahon, Jim Duff, 1980.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Fallen Angel" number="" stars=""> A few metres right of Fast Lane. Up the face and crack on the left and then straight up the crack and over some choss to finish. Roxanne Wells, Nick Deka, Robert McMahon, 1989.</climb>
</guide>
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