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<header
access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, drive or walk down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice. <br/>But first of all, The Nuggets."
acknowledgement="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0"
guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history=""
intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location."
name="Little Bluestone Bay" new="false"
rock="White granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun"
walk="5-30 mins"/>
<text class="heading2" guide.action="submit"
guide.id="1" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Nuggets by Mike Thomas">The Nuggets by Mike Thomas </text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The quality of rock at White Water Wall is paralleled by the granite forming it's eastern cousin, the Nuggets. By virtue of the fact it never rains at Freycinet and that the islands are exposed directly to the mighty Tasman, conflicting forms of weather frequently occur. One day it can be the tranquil Greek Islands of the Mediterranean, and the next blasted by winds as if off the Southern coast of Argentina.
<br/>The only exploring to date seems to have focussed upon the second, innermost island, with the characteristic split on the northern side , which is surrounded by cliffs.
<br/>Access is by small boat or by kayak (it is too far to swim and the current is fierce) and the split creates a good sheltered cove. It is easy to clamber up to the base ledge from a kayak exit if the swell is low enough. Day trips are feasible, but remember that you may be forced to spend some time there if the weather closes in and the wind and waves are too scary. There is no water on the island, and all solid waste should be removed. Please be careful when walking on the fragile vegetation and among nesting sea birds- tread lightly, walk quietly.
<br/>There are a number of good walls for climbing which have been named for ease of communication.
<br/>">The quality of rock at White Water Wall is paralleled by the granite forming it's eastern cousin, the Nuggets. By virtue of the fact it never rains at Freycinet and that the islands are exposed directly to the mighty Tasman, conflicting forms of weather frequently occur. One day it can be the tranquil Greek Islands of the Mediterranean, and the next blasted by winds as if off the Southern coast of Argentina.
The only exploring to date seems to have focussed upon the second, innermost island, with the characteristic split on the northern side , which is surrounded by cliffs.
Access is by small boat or by kayak (it is too far to swim and the current is fierce) and the split creates a good sheltered cove. It is easy to clamber up to the base ledge from a kayak exit if the swell is low enough. Day trips are feasible, but remember that you may be forced to spend some time there if the weather closes in and the wind and waves are too scary. There is no water on the island, and all solid waste should be removed. Please be careful when walking on the fragile vegetation and among nesting sea birds- tread lightly, walk quietly.
There are a number of good walls for climbing which have been named for ease of communication.
</text><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="117"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Base Ledge">Base Ledge</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="118" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This sheltered ledge on the main pat of the island is half way up from the sea. It is a good access for kayaks being in the cove created by the Citadel that is visible from WWW.">This sheltered ledge on the main pat of the island is half way up from the sea. It is a good access for kayaks being in the cove created by the Citadel that is visible from WWW.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="119"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Amphibolite the Titanium Newt" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="The big crack in the corner at the base of the ledge. Follow the crack and then go directly to the top. M. Thomas, 1995">The big crack in the corner at the base of the ledge. Follow the crack and then go directly to the top. M. Thomas, 1995</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="13m"
name="Crystallography" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The best reason for doing this climb is to see the quartz vein containing smoky quartz crystals. Much of the rock is of poor qulaity. Climb the large chimney to the L of ATTN, up the face past the quartz in the RH corner of the chimney, continuing past loose boulders on both sides..... hmmm. T. Jones, 1995.">The best reason for doing this climb is to see the quartz vein containing smoky quartz crystals. Much of the rock is of poor qulaity. Climb the large chimney to the L of ATTN, up the face past the quartz in the RH corner of the chimney, continuing past loose boulders on both sides..... hmmm. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="133"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="South East Wall">South East Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="134" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This wall is on the back of the Citadel and is easy to get to from Base Ledge. Pass around via the Wonderland then over a fat chockstone to the Citadel. From here go south to a sloping ramp where the waves can crash in violently.....">This wall is on the back of the Citadel and is easy to get to from Base Ledge. Pass around via the Wonderland then over a fat chockstone to the Citadel. From here go south to a sloping ramp where the waves can crash in violently.....</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m"
name="King Canute Drives Back the Sea" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="A classic and varied climb on the south east face of the Citadel. Walk down the sloping ramp around from the chockstone until a sloping crack in a corner is visible. Climb this well-protected crack using the face to a sloping ledge. Up the obvious cracks towards a short off-width vee crack . M. Thomas, 1995.">A classic and varied climb on the south east face of the Citadel. Walk down the sloping ramp around from the chockstone until a sloping crack in a corner is visible. Climb this well-protected crack using the face to a sloping ledge. Up the obvious cracks towards a short off-width vee crack . M. Thomas, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="126"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Wonderland and Boulderfield Gulch">The Wonderland and Boulderfield Gulch</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="127" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Simply traverse south from Base Ledge round a thin ledge. To access the gulch, jump onto a boulder at the chockstone or lower down if conditions are wet.">Simply traverse south from Base Ledge round a thin ledge. To access the gulch, jump onto a boulder at the chockstone or lower down if conditions are wet.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="128"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="23m" name="Ki"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A great, well-protected climb from the base of the boulder field to the L of the obvious crack-chimney (Crab in the Cracks). Climb up dark rocks to the parallel cracks. Ascend to a ledge on the RH side, then follow the crack and finger pockets until they terminate. Step out L and follow the short crack to a larger ledge. Walk R then climb the last two easy metres to the top. T. Jones, 1995.">A great, well-protected climb from the base of the boulder field to the L of the obvious crack-chimney (Crab in the Cracks). Climb up dark rocks to the parallel cracks. Ascend to a ledge on the RH side, then follow the crack and finger pockets until they terminate. Step out L and follow the short crack to a larger ledge. Walk R then climb the last two easy metres to the top. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="129"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Mustn't be Late" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start to the L of the gully opposite a skull-like rock on the plateform that is level with Base ledge right next to Ki. Go to easy way up a big friendly crack at the R of a block with a rounded corner to a big ledge that runs smoothly up to the plateau. Continue up to a second ledge in a similar fashion then step out R around a boulder at the top. M. Thomas, 1995.">Start to the L of the gully opposite a skull-like rock on the plateform that is level with Base ledge right next to Ki. Go to easy way up a big friendly crack at the R of a block with a rounded corner to a big ledge that runs smoothly up to the plateau. Continue up to a second ledge in a similar fashion then step out R around a boulder at the top. M. Thomas, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="130"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length=""
name="Crabs in the Crack" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Disappointing. Follows the obvoius gully up from the the boulder field gulch. Not recommended.T. Jones, 1995.">Disappointing. Follows the obvoius gully up from the the boulder field gulch. Not recommended.T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="131"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Playground">The Playground</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="132" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This microcosm is on the eastern side of the Citadel and is only visible from the other islands or out at sea. A wall on the southern side boasts a large curving crack which meets a vertical crack to form a classic teardrop shape. Furhter north there is a loated bulge of granite that creates a big overhang.">This microcosm is on the eastern side of the Citadel and is only visible from the other islands or out at sea. A wall on the southern side boasts a large curving crack which meets a vertical crack to form a classic teardrop shape. Furhter north there is a loated bulge of granite that creates a big overhang.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="133"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m approx."
name="Hmmmm?" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="This climb starts off promising and becomes a loose bunch of face choss. Begin just to the L of the overhung section and tend to the L. At the ledge just below the top, go staright up along the manky crystalloid face. T .Jones, 1995.">This climb starts off promising and becomes a loose bunch of face choss. Begin just to the L of the overhung section and tend to the L. At the ledge just below the top, go staright up along the manky crystalloid face. T .Jones, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="134"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Paisley with Stripes" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Excellent. The climb goes up the R side of the big teardrop in the obvious very vertical crack. Climb up to the crack junction then step out along the horizontal crack around the arete. Ascend on a "non-steep" face, with a small, fairly unprotected but easy crack just around the corner. M. Thomas 1995.">Excellent. The climb goes up the R side of the big teardrop in the obvious very vertical crack. Climb up to the crack junction then step out along the horizontal crack around the arete. Ascend on a "non-steep" face, with a small, fairly unprotected but easy crack just around the corner. M. Thomas 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="135"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The Leaning Siege">The Leaning Siege</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This impressive piece of granite protrudes from the sea on the south side of the mainland. A small ledge can be easily down-climbed to in order to access further descent possibilities. On the eastern side, a convenient ledge is simple to abseil to in order to access climbs on that side.">This impressive piece of granite protrudes from the sea on the south side of the mainland. A small ledge can be easily down-climbed to in order to access further descent possibilities. On the eastern side, a convenient ledge is simple to abseil to in order to access climbs on that side.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="137"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="24m"
name="Decerebrate Rigidity" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Access - abseil down to the ledge above the half-submerged weed covered ramp/foaming pit of death on the eastern side of the Leaning Siege. Traverse to directly below the the precarious finger and chockstone at the top. Ascend directly to the R side of the finger, using multiple smooth holds. Lastly, tend to the R on a slightly overhung face. To exit, use the Ferrest traverse. M. Thomas, 1995. <br/>">Access - abseil down to the ledge above the half-submerged weed covered ramp/foaming pit of death on the eastern side of the Leaning Siege. Traverse to directly below the the precarious finger and chockstone at the top. Ascend directly to the R side of the finger, using multiple smooth holds. Lastly, tend to the R on a slightly overhung face. To exit, use the Ferrest traverse. M. Thomas, 1995.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="138"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Guanocerous" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Access as for DR. Traverse only about 6 m to a triangular rock. Follow the crack here on the face using the flaring crack. Follow the crack to an obvious narrowing. Slime through this crux to a ledge on the R. Go straight up to a notch and continue R up poorly protected rock to the narrow backbone of the Leaning Siege. Exit via the Ferrest traverse. N.B. A very small wire and large sling were very useful for the last part. T. Jones, 1995.">Access as for DR. Traverse only about 6 m to a triangular rock. Follow the crack here on the face using the flaring crack. Follow the crack to an obvious narrowing. Slime through this crux to a ledge on the R. Go straight up to a notch and continue R up poorly protected rock to the narrow backbone of the Leaning Siege. Exit via the Ferrest traverse. N.B. A very small wire and large sling were very useful for the last part. T. Jones, 1995.</climb><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="139"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Umbrella Wall">Umbrella Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="140" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="On the western side of the island is a long wall that can be accessed from the top without ropes.">On the western side of the island is a long wall that can be accessed from the top without ropes.</text><climb
extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit" guide.id="141"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="16m"
name="Mike's Umbrella" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="An arbitary route following the driest and least chossy line up the norhten side of the Umbrella Wall. T. Jones and M. Thomas, solo, 1995.">An arbitary route following the driest and least chossy line up the norhten side of the Umbrella Wall. T. Jones and M. Thomas, solo, 1995.</climb><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="142" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Now, back to the mainland.">Now, back to the mainland.</text><text
class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="135"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Lego Area">Lego Area</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully.">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully.</text><climb
extra="" grade="40m" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="24"
name="King Constipator" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Start at the hanging arete below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind; allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arete past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.">Start at the hanging arete below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind; allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1) 24. Up the arete past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2) 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts. N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Lego"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it. N.Deka, Apr 1988."> Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it. N.Deka, Apr 1988.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Demolition Darby" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp. P.Darby, Apr 1988."> Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp. P.Darby, Apr 1988.</climb><text
class="Discussion" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8"
guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Buttress proper:">The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Buttress proper:</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="I See You Baby (Shakin&apos; that Ass)" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001."> The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress. J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3">Rubik's Cube</text><text
class="description">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form a very vague cube like shape, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to little bluestone bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text><text
class="Discussion">The orange face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Analysis, Statistics" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Interval"
new="false" number="2." stars=""
value="Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top. D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989."> Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top. D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The yellow face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="The Horror"
new="false" number="3." stars=""
value="Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989."> Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish. J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
name="Blinking Idiot" new="false" number="4." stars="*"
value="The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996."> The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top. R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The green face: next right</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
name="Snakes, Ladders" new="false" number="5." stars=""
value="Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m"
name="Bill&apos;s Climb" new="false" number="6." stars="*"
value="Up steep hand crack starting in the corner. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Up steep hand crack starting in the corner. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="a+b"
new="false" number="7." stars=""
value="A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 1989."> A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected. D.Bruce, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Easy Solo"
new="false" number="8." stars=""
value="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."> J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Digit"
new="false" number="9." stars="*"
value="Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m"
name="Spirit of Place" new="false" number="10." stars="**"
value="Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989."> Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves. J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Soft Grit"
new="false" number="11." stars="*"
value="The arete immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arete or dyno right to good holds and top. N. Selby, Apr 2001."> The arete immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arete or dyno right to good holds and top. N. Selby, Apr 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Tangent"
new="false" number="12." stars=""
value="Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish. N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The black face: the next face right</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Fractional"
new="false" number="13." stars=""
value="Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Pink Solo"
new="false" number="14." stars=""
value="Easy face. J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."> Easy face. J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="30"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Denominator"
new="false" number="15." stars=""
value="Obvious arete about 5m left of Rhomboid. N. Deka, Mar 1989."> Obvious arete about 5m left of Rhomboid. N. Deka, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Rhomboid"
new="false" number="16." stars=""
value="The arete immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989."> The arete immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="10m" name="Dynamo Hum" number="17."
stars=""> Climb the steep wall just right of the crack. D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="10m" name="Left Crack" number="18."
stars=""> Climb the overhanging crack. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Geometry"
new="false" number="19." stars=""
value="About 4m left of the arete, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> About 4m left of the arete, with a bouldery start. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Hypothetical" new="false" number="20." stars=""
value="Up right arete. Take crack to top. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989."> Up right arete. Take crack to top. N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The red face: Again the next face right.</text><climb
extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Roxanne&apos;s Corner" new="false" number="22."
stars=""
value="The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989."> The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face. Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="D Squared + r" new="false" number="23." stars=""
value="Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989."> Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection. D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Logarithm"
new="false" number="24." stars=""
value="The far right arete. Excellent crack climbing. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989."> The far right arete. Excellent crack climbing. N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.</climb><text
class="heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text><text
class="description">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="10_tetragamatron.jpg" width="800">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m"
name="The Drivel Dies" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994."> To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="40m" name="The Devil Drives" number="2."
stars=""> To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf. E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" new="false" number="3." stars=""
value="This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up above offwidth. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1) 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2) 15m. Continue straight up above offwidth. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="46"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="The Little Red Hen" new="false" number="4." stars="*"
value="The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981."> The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="12m" name="Chicken Surprise" number="5."
stars=""> A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up. Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="Tetragrammaton" new="false" number="6." stars="**"
value="A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1) 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2) 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top. J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m"
name="No More Mr Nice Guy" new="false" number="7." stars="***"
value="A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.">A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1) 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2) 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up. J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="48m" name="Exocet"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="A total classic. 1) 17 18m Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2) 26 18m The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3) 17 10m The nice hand and offwidth to the top. G. Phillips and S.Young 2007. <br/>">A total classic. 1) 17 18m Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2) 26 18m The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3) 17 10m The nice hand and offwidth to the top. G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m"
name="Edge of the World" new="false" number="8." stars=""
value="This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994."> This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose. R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994.</climb><text
class="heading3">Alchemy Wall</text><text class="text"
guide.action="submit" guide.id="52" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value=""The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text><text
class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0"
guide.type="text" new="false"
value="The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="55"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="17m"
name="Monte Carlo" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981."> Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top. J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Evelyn&apos;s Climb" new="false" number="2." stars=""
value="The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982."> The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing. Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Coolibah Crack" new="false" number="3." stars="**"
value="The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981."> The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face. J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m"
name="Immaculate Misconception" new="false" number="4."
stars="***"
value="The arete right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arete to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arete to the top. N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001."> The arete right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arete to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arete to the top. N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="20m" name="Hermes Playmate" number="5."
stars="*"> Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam. Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 95.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="27m" name="Hermes Trismegistus" number="6."
stars="**"> The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="25" length="20m" name="Captivating Passions" number="7."
stars="*"> Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree). Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="62"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m"
name="Walking the Plank" new="false" number="8." stars="**"
value="The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981."> The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m"
name="Walking the Plank Direct finish" new="false" number=""
stars="**"
value="Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top. <br/>G. Phillips and J. Bresnehan Sept 2007 <br/> <br/>">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.
G. Phillips and J. Bresnehan Sept 2007
</climb><climb
grade="19" length="25m" name="Blue-eyed Blonde" number="9."
stars="***"> Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Alchemy"
new="false" number="10." stars="***"
value="The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81."> The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack. John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 81.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The next two climbs are located on a boulder wall at the top of Alchemy Wall.</text><climb
grade="15" length="10m" name="Fools Gold" number="11."
stars=""> A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arete. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="28" length="15m" name="Exquisite Tenderness"
new="false" number="12." stars="*"
value="The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold. Grant Rowbottom, 1999."> The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold. Grant Rowbottom, 1999.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="22" length="20m" name="L'Obsession"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts. N.Selby 7/6/2003.">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts. N.Selby 7/6/2003.
</climb><text
class="heading3">Second Ramp</text><text
class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Struck Off " new="false"
number=""
stars="">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top. Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar 03.
</climb><climb
grade="18" length="12m" name="Dodgy Ringpulls" number=""
stars=""> Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top. Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.</climb><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Double Deka" number=""
stars=""> About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker. Nick Deka solo.</climb><climb
grade="15" length="16m" name="Firewalker" number=""
stars=""> The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="19" length="15m" name="Ogma Sun Face" number=""
stars="***"> The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Steel Springs" number=""
stars="**"> Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="22" length="15m" name="Curious Fanatic" number=""
stars="**"> On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks. John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="10m" name="First in First Served" number=""
stars="*"> About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top. Robert McMahon, Mar 89.</climb><climb
grade="10" length="10m" name="Easy Corner" number=""
stars=""> The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea. Neale Smith (solo), Oct 81.</climb><text
class="Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Mathonwy" number=""
stars=""> A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="12" length="15m" name="Doesn't Matter" number=""
stars=""> Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above. Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><text
class="heading3">First Ramp</text><text
class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Furless" number=""
stars=""> Past first ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face. Kim Robinson, Aug 97.</climb><climb
grade="18" length="10m" name="Bearded Clam Corner" number=""
stars="*"> The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection. Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="86"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989."> The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection. R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="10m" name="Triptolemus" number=""
stars=""> Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="88"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="22m"
name="Velchanos (Demon)" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81."> Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained. N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="22m" name="Whinging Poms" number=""
stars=""> The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose). D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 90.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="90"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="23m"
name="Feed the Man Meat" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection. Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 89.</climb><climb
grade="16" length="22m" name="Taliesin" number=""
stars=""> On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish. Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 81.</climb><climb
grade="17" length="15m" name="Ygdrassill" number=""
stars=""> On the right on this face. Very balancey, commiting moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top. Robert McMahon, John Fantini , Oct 81.</climb><text
class="heading3">Travel Land</text><text
class="description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" name="Wild Willy" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The overhanging arete left of Hugs n Kisses. G Phillips, May 03.">The overhanging arete left of Hugs n Kisses. G Phillips, May 03.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="96"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Hugs 'n' Kisses" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Off-width. Jay Audenart, 1998."> Off-width. Jay Audenart, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="8m" name="Red Line" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face. G Phillips, Feb 03.
</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="22" length="15m" name="Tribute" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts. N.Selby 12/10/2002"> Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts. N.Selby 12/10/2002</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="21" length="14m" name="Ekeko" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25/08/2002"> Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts. N.Selby, 25/08/2002</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="The Path of the Enigma"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arete past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12/10/2002"> Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arete past 4 U bolts. N.Selby, 12/10/2002</climb><climb
grade="16" length="12m" name="Panchamama" number=""
stars=""> Off-width. Good fun. N.Selby, C.Walker, E.Bradley, A.Williams</climb><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
value="The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="103"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m"
name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts. Norm Selby, Dec 02."> Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="501 Bodega" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The arete with 2 u-bolts plus gear. Norm Selby, Dec 02."> The arete with 2 u-bolts plus gear. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><climb
grade="21" length="10m" name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus"
number=""
stars=""> Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt. Norm Selby, Dec 02.</climb><text
class="heading3">Sentry Box</text><text class="text" new="false"
value="From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text><climb
grade="19" length="15m" name="Sentry Box" number=""
stars="*"> On the left hand arete at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arete with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams. F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="26" length="10m" name="Fridge Magnet"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Nov 04.">Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Nov 04.
</climb><climb
grade="21" length="15m" name="Rainbow Groove" number=""
stars=""> The slim groove on the left arete. Protected by RP's. Dave Gray, Carol Hurst.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Shogun" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb. N Selby 28/12/2003.">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb. N Selby 28/12/2003.
</climb><text
class="Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text><climb
grade="19" length="40m" name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust"
number="" stars=""> Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height. P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 88.</climb>
</guide>
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