<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide guidestars="***" pagesize="400"><text class="heading1" new="false">Handsome Crag</text><text class="text" new="false">Handsome Crag has quite a decent amount of reasonable sandstone. There is a quite a lot of potential here for bouldering, and there has been a rapid amount of development here since it was kicked off by Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut and Campbell Godfrey in May 2008. The crag faces north and gets a lot of sun, so is a good winter venue, but too hot in summer. It's high enough that it mostly escapes the New Norfolk fog.</text><text class="text" new="false">It is possible to drive to within fifty metres of the cliff. There used to be a locked gate at the bottom of the road, but this is no longer present. The crag is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first right, followed by a left. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn right along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km along Back River Road from the T-junction. Turn right at the driveway to house numbers 658, 660 & 662 (this is the middle of 3 dirt tracks) and drive for another 1km before reaching where the locked gate used to be on the left. This is Handsome Caves Road. After a few kilometres of zigging and zagging up a steep, rough road, when it flattens out a bit take a track which turns off sharply to the left. The crag will soon be visible on the right. The road is "good fun" in a 2wd - the extra clearance and traction of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. But please remember that other people use this road - use your common sense and don't hoon it, and make sure you park well off the road. No one wants the gate back on the road! The drive takes about 45 min or 40km from Hobart.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap.png" width=""/><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsome area2.jpg" width=""/><gps new="true"><point code="HAN100" description="The Stronghold - Car Park" easting="507674" height="462" northing="5268131" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN110" description="The Stronghold - Dont Fight It" easting="507745" height="523" northing="5268080" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN200" description="The Blockhouse" easting="507464" height="515" northing="5267905" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN300" description="The Weakhold - Car Park" easting="508175" height="0" northing="5268218" zone="55G"/><point code="HAN310" description="The Weakhold" easting="508120" height="0" northing="5268140" zone="55G"/></gps><text class="heading2" new="false">Main Cliff Boulders</text><text class="text" new="false">There are lots of boulders under the main amphitheatre of cliffs. The potential isn't quite as good as you'd expect, but there are a couple of good looking boulders down the left hand end that are yet to be developed. </text><text class="heading3" new="false">Lebowski Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="lebowski.jpg" width=""/><text class="text" new="false">This boulder is one of the first you come to at the far right hand end of Handsome Crag, and is only 20m up from the road. It is directly below the furthest right buttress of the crag.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="We are Nihilists" new="false" number="1." stars="">Face around the corner to the L. Up flake and onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Project - left arete</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V4" name="The Big Lebowski" new="false" number="3." stars="*">Left to right lip traverse.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="5." stars="">Project - left of centre</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="The Dude Abides" new="false" number="5." stars="">The right arete, made easy by holds on the right face.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Excavator Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="excavator.jpg" width=""/><text class="text" new="false">This steep face is about 20-30m along the road from Lebowski, just up off the road.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="The Excavator" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Steep left arete.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">From low rail, up middle of the steep face, finishing left.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10?" name="" new="false" number="2b." stars="">Project - Up face and finish straight up.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Bulldozer Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">About 50m past Excavator Boulder a rough track goes up to the left. This steep face is right by the track, leaning on a tree.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="bulldozer.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="The Bulldozer" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Big pull off shaky flakes to top.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Crowbar Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Follow the road under the cliff, and park at the lowest point where there is a decent sized pull out. Head up left to where you can see a steep prow and wall (that unfortunately has a lack of holds). Behind this are quite a few more steep boulders, but they will need some landing engineering. The steep face has good potential for some classics, but needs some landing engineering.</text><problem extra="" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Around left from steep face</problem><text class="text" new="false">These problems are around right on the back of the boulder.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Sit start on the arete, head left and up. Not as bad as it looks.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Face right of the arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Flake in middle of face</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*">The steep arete on the back of the boulder. Start low on slopers.</problem><text class="heading2" new="false">The Blockhouse</text><text class="text" new="false">The Blockhouse is a fairly small area above the left hand end of Handsome Crag (straight above Hard and Fast), with potential for maybe 15 problems. Park 50m past the crag where there is a pull out on the right. Walk back towards the crag and up the ridge through a gap in the cliffs, to find an area of about 4 free standing boulders back by some cliffy bits.</text><text class="heading3" new="false">The Choss Block</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the chossy block closest to the road. There are a couple of easy slabby climbs on one side, and some chossy stuff on the bottom.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Left side of featured slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Right side of featured slab</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Chossy jugs at the bottom of the boulder</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Merci Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">The is the large boulder with the obvious steep face facing the road, and a high vertical face.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="merci.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="The Original Fire" new="false" number="1." stars="***">Very nice flakes up left side of steep face. Head right to finish.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Project - up shallow crack without using arete.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Merci Fuckyou" new="false" number="3." stars="*">The right arete of the steep face.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Hot Engrish Tea?" new="false" number="4." stars="*">Thin crack 1.5m left of Show Day Special.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3" name="Show Day Special" new="false" number="5." stars="*">The right arete of the vertical face</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Stubbie Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the small boulder to the right of Merci Boulder.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Slab of Stubbies" new="false" number="6." stars="">Slab on far left of boulder.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="7." stars="">Project - sit start and up onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="8." stars="">Start off opposing sidepulls, up right to jugs. Needs the hard sit start.</problem><text class="heading2" new="false">The Stronghold</text><text class="text" new="false">This area has about a dozen beautiful free standing boulders with some fantastic lines. Good rock too. Continue on Handsome Caves Rd past the Main Cliff for another couple of hundred metres until you get to an area with a couple of free standing boulders in a flat area on the right, with a small cliff line behind. You should be able to spy some more boulders up above the left side of the cliff line - this is where the good stuff is. Park in a small sandy pull out, and head up the hill for 5 minutes. Once you are above the small cliff line you should be able to see the boulders. The boulders are described pretty much top-to-bottom and left-to-right as they appear in the plan topo below.</text><text class="text" new="false">There are plenty of new problems to do here. Bring a brush and spend some effort to contribute to this great area.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap2.png" width=""/><text class="heading3" new="false">Lower Boulders</text><text class="text" new="false">These first problems are on the two boulders just off the road to the right of the track up to the Stronghold. Not much chop.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Dodgy flakes a couple of metres left of no 2.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">The left leading ramp on the front of the boulder</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Alpine Style" new="false" number="3." stars="">Sit start on jugs, up the rubbly ridge to the summit. Good training for New Zealand mountains!</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Smear Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">A smaller boulder with a nice clean face down the hill a bit.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="smearBoulder.jpg" width="300"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="Smear Test" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Up the clean face starting with the opposing side pulls, give yourself a V7 tick if you doit with a sit start.</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V5/6" name="Slope Test" new="false" number="2." stars="**">Hang start on the sloper. A couple of tricky move will take you onto the holds on 1, up this to finish.</problem><text class="text" new="false">These problems are on the other side of the boulder from Smear Test.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Start at the very bottom of the boulder and thrutch up on the sketchy slab. Evil.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Project - Start at low jugs, up onto slab</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Slope Exam" new="false" number="3." stars="**">Start on low jugs, lip traverse right on great slopes.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Start on slopers half way along, pull up into mantle and onto slab.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Fat Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This small boulder is just across from the Smear face.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="Big Fat Crap" new="false" number="" stars="">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Dirty face to right of arete</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Inner City Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">These are two smallish boulders that lie against each other.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="city1.jpg" width="400"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">On the left of the cave, start from slopers on lip.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">On right of cave start at hueco, finish over tree.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">A couple of metres right climb the arete.</problem><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="city2.jpg" width="400"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9/10" name="Inner City Pressure" new="false" number="3." stars="*">On the back of the boulder, left side of face</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V5/6" name="City Migi" new="false" number="4." stars="*">In middle of face, hang start off lower holds</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Dirt Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Nice little face just across from Barad-dur boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="dirt.jpg" width="400"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Fight Through the Dirt" new="false" number="1." stars="">Sit start on left of boulder, follow lip up right to jug then up.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Straight up to jug.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Project - centre of face from sitstart.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Dirt Music" new="false" number="4." stars="">Sit start on right side of boulder, follow lip left then up.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Barad-dur</text> <text class="text" new="false">The eastern of the two towers.</text><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V4" name="Crack of Doom" new="false" number="" stars="***">The awesome highball crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Harden the Fuck Up" new="false" number="" stars="*">Face around the arete right of Crack of Doom, to left of ramp.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Orthanc</text><text class="text" new="false">The western of the Two Towers is pretty high with some awesome lines to be done.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="orthanc back.jpg" width="300"/><problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Up the arete using pocket, then up jugs to top. Descent is to drop off onto the face to the left and step across to the block.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Up slab</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V6" name="Limpet" new="false" number="3." stars="**">Up to the right of the arete. Tricky moves at the start lead to exciting moves to get onto the slab</problem><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="orthanc.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0?" name="Orthanc Arete" new="false" number="1." stars="">The right hand arete, with pockets.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Zinc Fingers Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Zinc Fingers Boulder is just NE from Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="zincfingers.jpg" width="400"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Dirty slab to L of arete on back of boulder</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*">Sit start and climb steeper R side of nice featured arete.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V11" name="Uprising" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Sit start on left arete, head right to sloper on the arete then up Zinc Fingers to finish.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Zinc Fingers" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Groove up middle of the boulder. Stand start is about V2.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Easy arete on right side of boulder.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Don't Fight It Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is one of the first boulders you come to.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="dontfightit.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Setting Sun" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Sit start of ramp, up on pockets then side pulls</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Bug, Powder, Dust" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Sit start and straight up into crack and over the top.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Not So Contrived Now!" new="false" number="" stars="*">Start at a good sidepull right of "Bug, Powder, Dust", then up to rail and veer right past sidepulls and slaps to finish near "Don't Fight It". Refuse the temptation to use the left crack system.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Start a bit left of Don't Fight It, and traverse right to The Panics. Could start further left but pretty hard.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Don't Fight It" new="false" number="4." stars="**">Blunt arete using pockets to slopers.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="The Panics" new="false" number="5." stars="*">Overhang on right side of face.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="See Ros Run" new="false" number="6." stars="*">Traverse the whole boulder from the start of Setting Sun to the end of The Panics.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Grey Slab</text><text class="text" new="false">There is a small slab just up behind Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Start left of the arete, move right</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Short arete on left end of slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Left side of slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Right side of slab.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Straight Lines Area</text><text class="text" new="false">These first problems are on the down hill side of the Vitriol Boulder, facing the Don't Fight It Boulder.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="straightlines.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Short arete on left side of the Better With Age face, from a sit start.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Better With Age" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Nice face on the opposite side of the boulder from Straight Lines.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Variant to Better With Age on flakes just to the right.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Left arete and scoop</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Busted" new="false" number="3." stars="*">Up arete then dyno up left to the scoop.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Up from flat hold, right of arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Straight Lines" new="false" number="5." stars="***">Pull up from very nice rail at head height, at bottom end of the slot between the two boulders. There is a pretty hard sit start using the arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="6." stars="">Slab opposite Straight Lines.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Mouthful of Love" new="false" number="7a." stars="">Sit start using thin crack and edge. Start hold has been broken since first ascent making it very stiff 9</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="7b." stars="">Pull up on jug left of arete.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="8." stars="">Right of arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Fuckin Jeezus" new="false" number="9." stars="">Right hand side of slab</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="10." stars="">Project - awesome steep arete with no holds</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Vitriol Area</text><text class="text" new="false">The next problems are at the top end of the slot.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="vitriol.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Pocket Full of Pulleys" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Start at narrow pocket, move left to arete and up</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Arete opposite Vitriol, staying on the face.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Vitriol" new="false" number="3." stars="***">The beautiful curved arete. Sit start is about V4 but awkward.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Two Face Boulder</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="*">On block just around to the R of vitriol traverse lip rightwards.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Sheriff Jeff Acid" new="false" number="4a." stars="">On the right hand side of the block, sit-start of the pinch on the arete and up to flat jug just below top of boulder and top-out as for problem 4.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Dave's Arete Area</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Pedro" new="false" number="4b." stars="*">On boulder between Dave's Arete and Two Face boulder. Sit-start off large rightward sloping ledge via slot to left arete then up to top.</problem><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V6" name="Dave's Arete" new="false" number="5." stars="">The awesome looking arete. Gets a bit desperate at the top. Can be done with a sit start if the arete isn't inspiring enough for you.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Gatekeeper Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="gatekeeper.jpg" width="400"/><text class="text" new="false">Featured boulder to the right of Inchman - could do with some more cleaning and traffic.</text><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="4." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="5." stars=""/> <text class="heading3" new="false">The Balcony</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the short exciting looking 45 degree wall on top of the cliff which can be seen on the walk up. Careful not to knock your spotter off, if you can get one.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Balcony2.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6/7" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Start on pockets then up and left to the big sloper - still awaiting a topout.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false">Inchman Boulder - North Face</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="inchman.jpg" width="300"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Autobahn" new="false" number="" stars="**">A marathon cleaning effort by Pete and an excellent warm up. Start up the right hand arete on the North Face of the Inchman Boulder and traverse the lip left to the arete, around the arete then follow the horizontal till you reach Fark knows..., if you're not warmed up then head back again.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Inchman Boulder - East Face</text><text class="text" new="false">These slabby walls provide some entertaining for those sampling their first bouldering experience.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Artists Wall 2.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-" name="Fark knows...not feeling creative today!" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0-" name="Moaning Lisa" new="false" number="2." stars="">Also the descent route.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="A-muse-ing" new="false" number="3." stars="*">A pleasant climb up the slab.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Van Gone" new="false" number="4." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Cliff Palette" new="false" number="5." stars="*">Follow the edges up the slab.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Inchman Boulder - South Face</text><text class="text" new="false">The back side of Inchman has an impressive steep face which after many hours of brushing and a bit of landscaping is producing some classic problems.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Chain_Wall4.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Greed is Good" new="false" number="0." stars="*">Start around the arete left of no. 1, up to small pocket and then mantle left.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10/11" name="Iyora" new="false" number="1." stars="***">Sit start on the opposing side pulls, a big pull brings you up to the nose then up and right to top of the boulder.</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V6" name="Ball and Chain" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Start right hand on the pinch and left on the gaston, up to slope then big pull to the top.</problem><problem extra="(Hang)" grade="V10" name="The Never Ending Story" new="false" number="3." stars="**">Start as for Ball and Chain and make your way right, topping out on Sledgehammer, pumpy climbing.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Hang Me Out To Dry" new="false" number="4." stars="***">Nice face with slopers. Start on the edges below the big sloper. Take a grade or so off if you stack the pads up and start on the sloper.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="Chain Gang Bang" new="false" number="5." stars="***">Start as for Hang Me Up, traverse right and finish up Chain Gang. Originally grade V7 but after some of Tassies' hottest talent failed to send it V8 seems like a more appropriate grade ;-)</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V7" name="Chain Gang" new="false" number="6." stars="**">Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Block Buster" new="false" number="7." stars="*">Start left hand in crack. bad feet and bust up to big sledge hammer jug. </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Sledgehammer" new="false" number="8." stars="**">On R side of face - big pull from horizontal to horizontal then up over top.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V12" name="Nilaavu" new="false" number="9." stars="***">Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Just to the R of Sledgehammer, up to hollow holds.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">On far right side of face, just left of block. Climb up R on big holds.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Meathook Cave</text><text class="text" new="false">These problems are in the left hand part of the choss cave on the back wall, straight up the hill from Inchman Boulder.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Meathook Left" new="false" number="" stars="">Left line out the cave on jugs</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Meathook Right" new="false" number="" stars="*">Right line out the cave on jugs</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">White Noise Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">Between Inchman and Not My Problem boulders is a bloc with a large detached flake on the W side, and a tree at the right hand end.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="White noise.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">The left hand arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="White Noise" new="false" number="2." stars="*">Stand start from the obvious edge in the middle of the face, head right to the top and a fun mantle. A harder sit start may be possible.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">From the good pinch just left of the tree up and over the dead branch.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Not My Problem Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the most southern decent boulder of the area.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="notMyProblem.jpg" width="300"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="I'll Cry If I Want to" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Up on crimps and seams to groove and glory jugs!</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3/4" name="Not My Problem" new="false" number="2." stars="**">Steep arete to balancy top out.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Ticked Off" new="false" number="3." stars="">From scoopy holds with left hand, up arete via pinches to top.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Fiddler Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">About 100m further along on the edge of the ridge is a boulder with a prominent prow</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="Slide1.jpg" width="300"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Fiddely Du" new="false" number="1." stars="**">Awkward start from the flake then up R via the obvious pocket.</problem><text class="heading2" new="false">The Weakhold</text><text class="text" new="false">The Weakhold is another good area a few hundred metres along the ridge from the Stronghold. The rock is a little chossier and mossier, but it has some great steep and high lines. Keep going along the road until a track heads off left, park just before this. Scramble up the hill to find a series of about half a dozen large boulders. From the GPS co-ordinates it looks as though this area is in the corner of the same Crown Land parcel as the Stronghold. Most of this info is a bit sketchy - I need someone to tell me the names and grades. There have been quite a few more problems done than described here.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="weakholdOverview.png" width=""/><text class="heading3" new="false">International Traveller Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This boulder is somewhere on the way up to the Weakhold.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="internationalTraveller.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="">right side of left face, easily up legdes</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">arete</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="The Spaniards are Coming" new="false" number="3." stars="*">Middle of right face (slab), sit start on triangular flake and balance up to top out </problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Arrogant American" new="false" number="4." stars="">Right arete, trending left to top out left of dirty rock on photo</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Drunk German" new="false" number="5." stars="*">Sit start up steep arete, best line on the boulder.</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Big Boulder</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Start on the steep stuff down in the gap</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Frenchy Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the large boulder with the very steep and sandy back face.</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="frechyBoulder.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="The Book Thief" new="false" number="2." stars="">Sit starts on the jug at the bottom, heads up the arete and tops out.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="">Hard start up to sloper then finish on jugs</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="*">The right hand edge of the boulder</problem><text class="text" new="false">These next problems are on the small, steep face to the right.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="5." stars=""/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="6." stars=""/><text class="heading3" new="false">Rope Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="rope1.jpg" width=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars=""/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="">Left of arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="*">Juggy crack</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Right arete</problem><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="rope2.jpg" width=""/><text class="text" new="false">This is the bottom side of the same boulder.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*">Jugs to slopey top out</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Nice Boulder</text><image new="false" noPrint="false" src="niceBoulder.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Nice Jugs" new="false" number="1." stars="**"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Nice Slopers" new="false" number="2." stars="**"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Nice Traverse" new="false" number="3." stars="*"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="">Slab around right</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="5." stars="">Face to the right again</problem><text class="heading3" new="false">Elvis Boulder</text><text class="text" new="false">This is the next boulder across, with an undercut front. First problems are on the front.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">From chossy jugs through bulge</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Start as for the next prob, head up and around left</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">Up crack line to slopey top out</problem><text class="text" new="false">These problems are on the back of the boulder, facing Nice boulder.</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="Elvis" new="false" number="" stars="*">Nice easy jugs on left end from rail</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="" stars="">1m to the right</problem><text new="true"/> </guide> |