<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="The property at Bare Rock at Fingal now has a new landowner who is a rockclimber. Andrew Martin and his partner Alannah are the owners of the property and they are climbers who reside in Queensland. Andrew writes: "We are more than happy to have climbers access the land to climb at Bare Rock (Fingal), although we would prefer that people go up the side boundary fence (as opposed to the main drive) and then hook a right turn to the obvious parking area. We would also appreciate a quick call on 0418883418 telling us that you are heading up there... as we have neighbours looking out for the place and that way I can tell them of your intended arrival. The other number is not currently connected, but may well be by christmas. Either way the mobile is the way to go. Of paramount importance is the realization that the road up to Bare Rock is not council maintained, and in fact, is paid for and maintained by the 3 property owners (myself included). The other two have therefore asked that any climbers please drive slowly as this seems to really irritate them (the road gets chewed up very easily, as well as noise etc). I know this is a very small ask, but keeping the neighbours happy on this one would seem to be the wise option. Other than that I hope you all enjoy climbing there as much as I did. If I am about pop in, grab a beer (if there are any left) say hello etc... we would love to get to know the Tasmanian climbing crew! " To get there take the first right hand turn (Legge Street) upon entering the town and drive south towards the cliff (take my word for it you can't miss it) past several intersections until the road curves right and then back left. Continue straight ahead along a track to a locked gate (2.2 km from main road) with a sign reading "Private Property". Continue on following the track which turns sharply left, descends past an old wooden shed then gains an old rocky road leading up a small hill to another gate, giving access to a paddock. Cross the paddock to a gate. Trend left up a hill to gain a rough road just over its crest which leads to within 100 metres of the cliff face. If it has been raining, walk from the first gate, as the paddocks will be impassable."
acknowledgement="by Jon Tiller (thanks to Bob McMahon and Simon Parsons), originally published in Craglets."
history=""
intro=""It was not as if the black cliff at Fingal ever needed discovering. Perched up there in the paddocks behind the town, the black cliff streaked with orange is so obvious from the highway that I don't suppose anyone even notices it. The townspeople call it Bare Rock but I suspect the name is simply descriptive, like 'high mountain' or 'rough road'. Apart from the fact that it is there, I doubt whether it has much more significance for them." (Bob McMahon, Peaks 3). You cannot really miss Fingal Cliff, no matter which direction you come from, it's a huge 200 metre orange faced monolith of rock that jumps out and grabs you by the throat. Yes it is dolerite but it has a unique structure which offers few natural lines and creates an incredible atmosphere for climbing. Even though Fingal valley has a high rainfall which makes the rock wet and greasy the faces dry very quickly, though the seepage lines remain wet for a long time. Also the climbing is of a serious nature due to patches of loose rock (helmets essential); height and exposure all contribute to it's atmosphere. There are only several routes to date (which take all if not most of the natural lines), potential for 200m. face climbs exist ,The Sapphire Rose and Fin Crisp being an indication of what might be possible. There are some questions about the grade of some of the climbs at Fingal, in these cases I have used the highest of the grades given to me. Reasons being that it is a serious cliff and this is reflected in the climbs. So if you find them easy or hard, too bad, that is the nature of climbing. I have found small Quadcams very useful indeed at this cliff and double ropes are essential."
name="Bare Rock" new="false"
rock="200m slabby dolerite. Mostly trad with a couple of sport routes."
sun="All day sun" walk="10 min"/><text class="indentedHeader"
new="false"
value="Descent: There is now a abseil route that follows Sapphire Rose (about 100m to the left of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff). The first abseil requires that you rap off a tree for about 30m to the first chain. The next two raps are 50m. Alternatively one can walk off via a steep and loose descent gully on the far right of the cliff. Take the second gully on the right as you are walking along the top. I suggest rapping off though!">Descent: There is now a abseil route that follows Sapphire Rose (about 100m to the left of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff). The first abseil requires that you rap off a tree for about 30m to the first chain. The next two raps are 50m. Alternatively one can walk off via a steep and loose descent gully on the far right of the cliff. Take the second gully on the right as you are walking along the top. I suggest rapping off though!</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="fingal.png"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="6" length="200m"
name="Faggus">This climb follows the line left of the chimney above the belay of the 2nd pitch of Boneyard ? That is it, not much I know. R.Schmidt, J.Butler, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="200m"
name="McCavity-Batten Memorial Route">This route takes the line always confused with Faggus. First and second pitches as for Boneyard, however on the second pitch instead of moving right up the ledge to begin, go straight up from belay - a delightful dolerite slab (17). Third pitch is bold, sustained 50m pitch through a bulge of fairly loose rock in places and tight bridging in a huge chimney (17). Last pitch typically worthless. McMahon, Staszewski, 1979 (Alt).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="240m"
name="Boneyard">A long and wandering route with much loose rock. An interesting experience! Start: Along the left hand end of the cliff, a mossy nose of rock is the first pitch.
1) 37m. Climb the nose to a small ledge.
2) 40m. Move up and over onto easier angled rock. Move right along a ledge for a metre then climb the slab above to belay on a large ledge beneath a huge chimney line splitting the upper bulging yellow head wall (McCavity - Batten route).
3) 30m. Move across right delicately, then scramble to below a corner leading up to the obvious diagonal line below the head wall.
4) 37m. Ascend the crack to belay on the ledge constituting the diagonal line.
5) 46m. Scramble along out right along the line until the ramp narrows. Move delicately across (crux) to belay beside a large block.
6) 50m. Move up and over block and continue up the obvious left slanting line to the top.
R.McMahon, M.McHugh, P.Jackson, 1969.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="210m" name="Fionn McCool"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start in the centre of the cliff in a shallow chimney below the subtle leftward leaning line that the routes follows.
1) 55m. Ascend the chimney to below a bulge. Bridge round the bulge (crux) and climb the face above (delicate, protection mediocre) to the base of a corner. Up the corner to belay on a scruddy ledge. This pitch is long and the second may have to begin climbing the initial chimney before the belay can be reached. It is possible to belay lower down. Note: On the first ascent the bulge was passed on the left up a loose and dangerous flake before stepping right into the crack. This flake is no longer present, making this pitch the crux of the climb.
2) 42m. Climb the left side of the groove and move left to below the corner that a huge detached flake forms on its right hand side with the wall. Move up the corner and belay on top of the flake.
3) 40m. Follow the diagonal crack out left in an incredible position to its junction with another crack running at right angles. These form an "X " visible from the ground high on the face. Continue up and out left over a steep wall (17) and around the nose out of sight, then climb easily straight up to a large ledge.
4&5) 77m. from the right side of the ledge follow the easy line out to the top.
R.McMahon, M.McHugh, 1971.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" length="185m" name="Bisso of Orange"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Between Fionn McCool and Sapphire Rose is a line of BRs.
1) 25m (16) six BRs.
2) 30m (22) ten BRs.
3) 30m (22) ten BRs.
4) 35m (24) 12 BRs.
5) 25m (26) ten BRs (maybe 22,M1).
6) 35m (21) 12 BRs
Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson. 2-06.">Between Fionn McCool and Sapphire Rose is a line of BRs.
1) 25m (16) six BRs.
2) 30m (22) ten BRs.
3) 30m (22) ten BRs.
4) 35m (24) 12 BRs.
5) 25m (26) ten BRs (maybe 22,M1).
6) 35m (21) 12 BRs
Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson. 2-06.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="A2+" length="95m" name="Little Pinocchio"
new="false" number=""
stars="">An interesting excursion up the blank face midway 20m left of The Sapphire Rose. An intimidating bolting dilemma on lead, but a pleasant enough second now, though don't underestimate the soundness of the rock nor the potential for good air time.
1) 25m. Climb the pedestal.
2) 35m. Blast straight up the blank wall to the leftward rising crack-line.
M.Perchard, J.Clarke, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="95m" name="The Sapphire Rose"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A classic modern route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, between Finn McCool and Finn Crisp. Rack: 17 Quick-draws and two ropes.
1) 35m 22. Sixteen bolts and chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the left of a raising right diagonal. Traverse spectacularly right to belay on a small ledge. (sustained).
2) 15m 21. Five bolts and chain. Traverse delicately left and then straight up the diagonal lies to the ledge and chain belay.
3) 28m 21. Ten bolts and chain. Climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!
S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.">A classic modern route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, between Finn McCool and Finn Crisp. Rack: 17 Quick-draws and two ropes.
1) 35m 22. Sixteen bolts and chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the left of a raising right diagonal. Traverse spectacularly right to belay on a small ledge. (sustained).
2) 15m 21. Five bolts and chain. Traverse delicately left and then straight up the diagonal lies to the ledge and chain belay.
3) 28m 21. Ten bolts and chain. Climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!
S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="270m"
name="Padraic Pearse">Starts just down from the start of Finn Crisp, up overhanging leftwards corner. Follows the obvious series of leftward leaning corners to the left of Finn Crisp then joins Finn Crisp to pass the head-wall. R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980 (Alt).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="200m"
name="Finn Crisp">May not as of yet had a second ascent. It follows the nose of rock up the blank face left of MacDonagh. The route description is unknown but the climb starts off from the top of a grassy ramp leading from the left to the base of a rock nose starting the route. (see the topo) J.Friend, W.Stevens, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="85m"
name="No Name">Variant pitch between the top of pitch 3 on MacDonagh and the last pitch. Probably hasn't had a second ascent as well.
1) 40m. Just before you traverse right on the third pitch of MacDonagh, follow the open book corner and ramp on your left. Belay.
2) 45m. Move right up over bulge (no pro) and up to join with very top part of the last pitch of MacDonagh.
P.Steane, D.Fife, G.Narkowicz, 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="200m"
name="MacDonagh">A fine route following the fine crack line left of the massive roof on the cliff's right hand end. It has two variant starts with the left-hand one the best.
1a) 55m. Up the corner on the left side of the mossy pillar below the line of the climb; to where the pillar meets the face (the second needs to start climbing before the leader has finished).
1b) 43m. Up the middle of pillar. R.McMahon and E. Mallinson.
2) 37m. From the left side of the top of the pillar move up the right side of a 2-4m high block, then step down left into the crack; Follow the crack to belay where it narrows.
3) 37m. Up the fantastic crack in a shallow corner to below the roofs; Move right to where a crack splits the overhang at its narrowest, belay.
4) 30m. Up and around the overhang on jams (crux) and continue up the side of the very large flake to belay on its top.
5) 37m. Move a metre left then up the slab to the top; A fine pitch, unique for dolerite.
R.McMahon and P.Jackson, 1969. (Editor's note: there's a lot of poxy old choss heaps in the state which get described as "fine routes"; this is, however, a genuinely pleasant and interesting climb and deserves a lot more ascents than it gets).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length=" 85m"
name="MacDonagh Variant Finish" new="false" number=""
stars="">1) 40m From the top of pitch 3 climb the corner and ramp up left
2) 45m Move R up bulge (no pro), and finish up last pitch of Finn Crisp.
Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Gerry Narkowicz, 1983.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="A2+" length="140m"
name="Hardly Worth the Effort" new="false" number=""
stars="">1) As for MacDonagh to "obvious" ledge.
2) Crank free straight out of belay up slab to "obvious" ledge under roof. Aid and free climb onto the ledge. Aid up to carrot. Aid through crack (two fixed wires). Bat hook past second carrot up the crack in the slab.
3) Do a massive traverse rightwards to climb behind the arete. Free climb rightwards under roof until triple carrot (?) belay.
4) Aid out left through roof crack. Traverse rightwards until double bolt belay.
Rack: Double sets of cams and wires, assorted pins (mostly knife blades), two hooks.
Three double rope abseils reach back to the ground. In his write up for the CCT Garry said the route was "Hardly worth the effort"; he might be wrong (if you can follow his route description!). The route name was not supplied so the one above is interim.
G.Phillips, S.Harper, May/97.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="180m"
name="Conan MacMorna">Starts: 2/3rd the way up the right side of the mossy pillar.
1) Climb up the right side of mossy pillar (dirty). At two-thirds height belay on a block at the same level as the traverse.
2) Hand traverse right to base of a rising diagonal crack. This is a fine traverse in the same league as the one on Skink, Mt Arapiles.
3) Follow the rising diagonal that cuts back a little left to the base of a black leftward leaning corner. There is a direct variant 3rd pitch called Red Sonja, see below.
4) Climb the left facing corner (which curves leftwards into a roof after about 10m), turn the roof at the top (crux), move slightly right on the orange face and then boldly straight up the orange face to a belay under the big roof.
5) Traverse out right on the face under great roof (easy but great fun).
R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m"
name="Red Sonja">A direct 3rd pitch of Conan McMorna. From the belay after the second pitch of Conan McMorna climb straight up the crack, on the left side of the orange triangle of rock. At the top of the crack, move left to a flake and then straight up. Walk along the ledge to join Conan McMorna. at the start of the 4th pitch. This is a much better alternative to pitch 3 of Conan McMorna. Sam Edwards, Jon Tiller, 1994.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">New Horizons Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">A small buttress on the hillside to the east of Bare Rock.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Froot Loops" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Corner on left of cliff. Marc Tierny, Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon 5/6/84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length=" 20m" name="White Death" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Hand crack to the R. Robert McMahon, Gerry Narkowicz, Marc Tierny 5/6/84</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Black Leather Barbarian"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Narrow black face. Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5/6/84</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="New Horizons" new="false"
number="" stars="">Steep corner on R. Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5/6/84.</climb></guide>
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