<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="1000">
<header
access="Turn left onto Safety Cove Road, just past the turn off to Port Arthur (about 200m past the petrol station / store). Drive to the very end of this road and park at the Remarkable Cave car park. A signpost marks the start of a formed track leading towards Mt Brown, and most cliffs in the area are accessed by leaving this track at the appropriate time.<br/>Access to Parrot Shelf: turn off to the right at a small sandy creek (after about 30 minutes). The top of the Parrot Shelf cliff is a short walk from here, and the base accessed at the southern end.<br/>Access to Paradiso: walk to the top of the Parrot Shelf, then continue south along the shore slabs for another 5 minutes. A short downclimb is required to reach the base of the cliffs, or otherwise abseil in.<br/>Access to Dauntless Point: follow the track past the sandy creek until it starts to head left. Head a little to the right of the saddle between Mt. Brown and Dauntless Point toward a black dead patch near the base of the hill. From here, head up to the saddle where upon easy walking with an excellent outlook may be had up along the eastern edge of the cliffs to the highest point. The cliff edge may be followed the whole way to the end of the point, with a rough track providing access through scrubby sections (about 15 more minutes). It is also possible (and less scrubby) to branch off the main Mount Brown track when it starts to steepen (just after the triangular fork) and follow the contour around to the Dauntless/Brown col.<br/>Access to Mount Brown Main Face: follow the main walking track to a triangular fork below the slopes of Mount Brown and then take the summit track heading uphill. When about 50m from the trig station, turn west and head towards the highest point at the cliff edge (about 1 hour from the car to the rap station).<br/><br/>The main walking track continues all the way to Crescent Bay, which is a worthwhile diversion (especially on a hot day), as well as having some additional climbing at each end."
acknowledgement="by Marcel Jackson and Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets."
history=""
intro="The cliffs around Mt. Brown provide a substantial range of climbing in an exciting setting. Like half of Tassie's southern coastline, the rock is dolerite, but despite its location directly between Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar, there is not a column to be seen. Huge weathered sheets of featured rock form towering overhanging walls on the west side, while to the east the same formations make even larger slabs. The steep walls have a heap of potential for some really fantastic cranking, and have already yielded a healthy harvest of classic sport climbs. Climbs of most grades, styles and angles exist in relative abundance, but arguably the best aspect about this area is the atmosphere. There are few experiences as pleasant as sitting on the warm rocks at Land's End in the late afternoon sun watching the Gannets dive. Even the evil 170m cave cliff of Mt. Brown glows orange and succumbs to the magic. On the other hand, there are few experiences as dramatic and ferocious as the Paradiso when the sea gets up."
name="Mount Brown" new="false"
rock="Wave sculpted dolerite, 10-200m" sun="Afternoon sun"
walk="20-60 minutes"/>
<gps new="true"><point code="MBR010"
description="DNA Land; Top of Stem Cell" easting="569331"
height="32" northing="5216888" zone="55G"/><point
code="MBR020" description="Parrot Shelf; Top of Geronimo"
easting="569835" height="22" northing="5216469"
zone="55G"/><point code="MBR030"
description="40 Degrees South; Slab where you turn off to go to anchors"
easting="569994" height="0" northing="5216028"
zone="55G"/><point code="MBR040"
description="40 Degrees South; Rap anchors" easting="569966"
height="0" northing="5215989" zone="55G"/><point
code="MBR050" description="Time Goes Bye; Rap anchors"
easting="570343" height="168" northing="5215926"
zone="55G"/><point code="MBR051"
description="I've Heard it all Before; Rap anchors"
easting="570358" height="170" northing="5215911"
zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="mountBrownMap.png" width="800"/>
<text class="heading3"
new="false" number="null.">DNA Land</text><text
class="Discussion" new="false"
number="null.">This small area has some good climbs similar to the Cataract Gorge and is largely unaffected by swell. The cliff is found just along from the southern entrance to the Maingon Blowhole, facing Cape Raoul. There are no lower-offs, so use the boulder at the top for an anchor. Approach and descend easily from the south.</text><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="Gene Therapy"
new="false" number="1." stars="**"
value="The flared crack passing a small roof at half height, past 4 U-bolts. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.">The flared crack passing a small roof at half height, past 4 U-bolts. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="23" length="12m" name="Double Helix"
new="false" number="2." stars="*"
value="The double-sided square arete, starting over a roof. 4 U-bolts. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">The double-sided square arête, starting over a roof. 4 U-bolts. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="26" length="10m" name="Stem Cell" new="false"
number="3." stars="**"
value="Thin bridging up the blank corner past 3 U-bolts. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">Thin bridging up the blank corner past 3 or 4 U-bolts. Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Genetic Code" new="false"
number="4."
stars="*">Climb the L facing flake crack on small cams to a U-bolt near the top. Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">The Parrot Shelf Cliffs</text>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">Of all the cliffs climbed at Mt. Brown, the Parrot Shelf cliffs are among the smallest. However, they offer quick access and a good collection of quality little routes in a pleasant position. The cliff is in two sections, with the lower, LH half being susceptible to waves in rougher weather.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="parrotShelf.jpg"
width=""/>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m"
name="Low Road" new="false" number="1."
stars="*">Clean rock, good pro, marvellous position. Destined for permanent classic status. Start at the extreme L end of the lower ledge, just on the edge of the sea cave. Step L off the ledge into the crack and then continue to the top. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 94. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="18m" name="Lost Sheep" new="false"
number="2."
stars="*">The first crack system R of Low Road. G.Jordan, Sep 96.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="18m"
name="Better Than It Looks, Three Stars" new="false" number="3."
stars="">You'd have to be suspicious of a name like that! Crack system with three small roofs, 2m R of Lost Sheep. A bit thrutchy. N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 96. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Wanker Diver" new="false"
number="4."
stars="*">Climbs the juggy wall 10m R of Low Road. Continue up slab when jugs run out. G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pib and Pog" new="false"
number="5."
stars="*">Up the superb pockets and flakes 3m L of Geronimo. Cruxes are at the ground and at the rooflet. N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 96.</climb>
<climb
extra="3B" grade="20" length="12m" name="Geronimo" new="false"
number="6." stars="***"
value="The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station. S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 95.">The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station. S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 95. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="First Launch" new="false"
number="7."
stars="**">This lies 3m R of Geronimo. Thin face moves to the horizontal at 2.5m. Continue up shallow corner to large ledge with rap station. G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Diller" new="false"
number="8."
stars="">At the extreme L of the upper ledge, several large blocks can be seen precariously balanced at the top of the cliff. Climb the arête below on its L face, passing the balanced blocks very lightly at the top. Not to be attempted by heavy people. M.Stuver, J.Corbett, Jul 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Open Cut" new="false"
number="9."
stars="">The next line to the right of Diller. Jam up on the left then bridge and exit via the narrow crack out right. P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Lay Line" new="false"
number="10."
stars="**">An aesthetic line. Takes the arête (climbed on the right face) 1.5m right of Open Cut. Balancey moves to good runners at the horizontal, then up the arête and hairline crack (crux) with very small wires. Finish pleasantly past the roof on the left. M.Jackon, H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Black Cockatoo"
new="false" number="11."
stars="**">Another good climb. The thin shallow line immediately R of Lay Line. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Jul 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Cirrostratus" new="false"
number="12."
stars="">Climb the first 3 metres of Octopussy, then hand traverse L along obvious horizontal crack. Finish traversing at Open Cut and climb this to finish. D.James, L.Rollins, Mar 96.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="The Gift" new="false"
number="13."
stars="**">Arête L of Octopussy. Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 04.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Octopussy" new="false"
number="14."
stars="*">The prominent thin chimney between Black Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks. R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="14m"
name="Do Worms Eat Finger Tape?" new="false" number="15."
stars="*">Climb the gently overhanging scoop just R of Octopussy then finish up easier crack above. Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 04.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="14m"
name="No Stove, No Key, No Telli!" new="false" number="16."
stars="*">Climb the narrow face just L of Polly. Ben Sutton, Hat' Grey, 9 Feb 04.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Polly" new="false"
number="17."
stars="">To the R of Octopussy is a narrow corner facing R. Climb up the crack and continue to the top with excellent pro. P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="14m" name="True Grit" new="false"
number="18."
stars="*">About 5m R of Polly there is a rough, L-facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake (crux), step R into its curving continuation, then finish direct. B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Dog Barf Road"
new="false" number="19."
stars="*">Climb the scoop just R of True Grit, finishing as for True Grit. Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 04.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="14m" name="Brimful of Asher"
new="false" number="20."
stars="**">Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold. Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then make tricky moves up, then L to attain a standing position on small holds on the blunt arete. The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides a tricky crux. Finish slightly L. Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 04.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Kelpie" new="false"
number="21."
stars="">To the R of True Grit is a corner with a slightly imposing finger hand crack for its second half. Climb this (it is a little loose at the top). H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="14m" name="New" new="false"
number="22." stars="">D Grey, Jun 2000.</climb>
<climb extra=""
grade="13" length="14m" name="Cracker" new="false" number="23."
stars="">10m to the R of Kelpie is a face with a steep overhang at about half height. Climb this then turn the bulge with ease. Continue up loose rock to the top. M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="12m" name="Indigo" new="false"
number="24."
stars="*">Climb the face 3m L of Zephyr to a horizontal break at 1/3 height. Follow thin vertical crack to the top. R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Zephyr" new="false"
number="25."
stars="">At the RH end of the cliffs is a protruding nose-like feature about 2m up. Climb the pock-marked face to the L of this. R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 95. </climb>
<text
class="heading3">The Paradiso</text><climb extra="3B" grade="17"
length="" name="Mixed Groceries" new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The bolted arete to the left of Shock-Wave. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S. Young, Jan 2007">The bolted arête to the L of Shock Wave. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.
</climb>
<climb
extra="5B" grade="21" length="13m" name="Shock Wave" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="This climb lies about 45m from the left hand end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arete (quite a pumpy little route). R.Parkyn, Aug 95.">This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="13m" name="Lost Souls" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Starts 4m to the R of Shock Wave and follows the overhanging corner, protection is available but hard to arrange. A testing climb up an obvious (but a little loose) feature. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="13m" name="Unzip" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of Lost Souls. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="4B" grade="18" length="10m" name="High Noon" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Between Unzip and Winkle climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.">Between Unzip and Winkle climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="12m" name="Sponge Bob" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Start in the wide crack right of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step left onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.">Start in the wide crack right of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="13m" name="Winkle" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Takes the chimney 8m R of Unzip. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion" new="false"
value="To the right of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, allowing easy but careful access to the top of the cliff. After about 30m more routes begin.">To the right of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, allowing easy but careful access to the top of the cliff. After about 30m more routes begin.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="18m" name="Borogove" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Step over the L edge of the puddle into an easy, R trending corner on excellent rock. Climb this to a ledge half-height, then continue up the holey and slightly overhanging arête headwall above on jugs. M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Stolopin" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Crank the initially difficult and steep face just R of the puddle. After the ledge at half height, continue straight up the face. The second followed up the overhanging arête to the R at the same grade. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Sep 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion">At this point the cliff turns a slight corner and immediately becomes overhanging. This is where the fun starts. </text>
<climb
extra="6B" grade="23" length="20m" name="Super Charger"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="First line on the overhanging wall. 6 bolts plus a .75 Camalot or similar (on a long runner), for high up on the route. G.Phillips, Sep 95.">First line on the overhanging wall. 6 bolts plus a .75 Camalot or similar (on a long runner), for high up on the route. G.Phillips, Sep 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Belly Of The Beasts"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">About 4m to the R of Super Charger is a weakness up the overhanging face with a downward-pointing horizontal chimney feature at half height. Climb this with the crux entering the stance under the roof chimney with an excellent but difficult to protect lay back finish. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Captain Napalm"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The line two metres left of Bagpipe. S.Edwards, May 97.">The line 2m L of Bagpipe. S.Edwards, May 97. </climb><climb
extra="6B" grade="25" length="20m" name="Bagpipe Original"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">3m R of Belly of the Beasts is an overhanging corner. Up this and through the roof (crux) past 6 bolts to a lower-off. S.Edwards, Dec 96.</climb>
<climb
extra="6B" grade="25" length="20m" name="Bagpipe Remix"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Up the overhanging corner and through the roof (crux) 3m right of Belly of the Beasts. Six U's and a rap station. S.Edwards, Dec 96.A direct version goes up the face two metres right of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route." S.Edwards, May 97.">This direct version of the previous goes up the face 2m R of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route," he says. S.Edwards, May 97. </climb><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Master of Disaster" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Not a climb but a traverse. Start by bridging in the Bagpipe corner then traverse R along the base of the wall to finish at Expendable Youth. "To be continued," he says. S.Edwards, Aug 97.
</problem>
<climb
extra="6B" grade="24" length="25m" name="Thunder Birds Are Go"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The bolted line about 6m right of Belly Of The Beasts. Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top. 6 bolts and a 2 and 3 camalot. S.Edwards, Aug 95.">The bolted line about 6m R of Belly Of The Beasts. Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top. 6 bolts and a #2 and #3 Camalot. S.Edwards, Aug 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="25m" name="Kraken" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Starts 2m right of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolt runners and follow the crack to the large ledge. Shares the same finish as Thunder Birds past the last bolt. R.Eberhard, Oct 95.">Starts 2m R of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolt runners and follow the crack to the large ledge. Shares the same finish as Thunder Birds past the last bolt. R.Eberhard, Oct 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Offender Of The Faith"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Another steep and sustained route about 5m right of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. One piece of good natural gear (a wire or .75 Camalot) before the first bolt. R.Parkyn, Oct 95.">Another superb steep and sustained route about 5m R of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. Fully bolted. R.Parkyn, Oct 95.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="Southern Exposure"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Just left of Sultan of Sweat, past a mixture of FH and U-bolts. J. Bresnehan, 2007.">Just L of Sultan of Sweat, past a mixture of FH and U-bolts. J.Bresnehan, 2007.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24/25" length="35m" name="Sultan Of Sweat"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="About another 5m to the right is another desperate problem the crux also being the roof at 4m. After this follow ten bolts to the top (with a camalot somewhere mid way as the exception that proves the rule). S.Edwards.">About another 5m to the R is another desperate problem, the crux also being the roof at 4m. After this follow ten bolts to the top (with a cam somewhere midway as the exception that proves the rule). S.Edwards. </climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="27" length="27m" name="Expendable Youth"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope. S.Edwards, 1998.">There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope. S.Edwards, 1998. </climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="59"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="28m"
name="Snooze and You Lose" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Super good. Climb Expendable youth to half height then head left and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat. G Phillips 07">Super good. Climb Expendable Youth to half height, then head L and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat. G.Phillips, 2007.</climb>
<climb
extra="13B" grade="26" length="35m" name="Retrograde Amnesia"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start 5m R of Expendable Youth. Climb the juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the R. Trend L under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-8 on a second rope or use long draws. Nick Hancock & Ben Ridder, Apr 04.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="61"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Number One"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Starts as for Total Recall then head left at roof and up to chains on the ledge. Can be done just on bolts or if you like take #1 and #2.5 friends for the top. G Phillips 07">Starts as for Total Recall, then head L at roof and up to chains on the ledge. Can be done just on bolts, or if you like your sanity take #1 and #2.5 Friends for the top. G.Phillips, 2007.</climb><climb
extra="12B" grade="27" length="35m" name="Total Recall"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">A magnificent route that climbs the massive leaning wall about 20m R of Expendable Youth. Climb an overhanging layback corner to a desperate move R under the roof. Pull L over this then climb straight up, until a move R at the top. Nick Hancock, Feb 03.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
name="Random People" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the right. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith 3/1/2006 (one rest due to slimy rock).">Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 06. (one rest due to slimy rock; has since been freed by another party)</climb>
<text
class="Discussion" new="false"
value="No climbs exist for the next 30m or so until the point where a massive corner feature can be seen.">No climbs exist for the next 30m or so until the point where a massive corner feature can be seen.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Dominion" new="false"
number=""
stars="">At the base of the corner described is a relatively short overhanging wall. Start at the arete at the RH end of this (about 12m to the right).
1) 25m 17. Climb the arete (crux) then follow the R trending ramp to a ledge. Trend back L up the crack and ledge system until the juggy rock near the corner is reached (about 5m below the roof).
2) 15m 18. Move up R, across the face to reach the hollow at the R end of the roof. Continue up to a sloping ledge above the roof. Unfortunately the climbing, protection, and rock quality drop off significantly after this point, so the ascentionists abseiled off some gear at this point. Not recommended until an anchor is placed at the sloping ledge.
M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 94 (alt).</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Six Bells Chime"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">About 20m R of the start of Dominion, a R-wards tending diagonal can be seen about 12m up the cliff. Start immediately below the start of this. Climb the face (the first move is the hardest) to the base of the diagonal then continue along this to finish at the ledge. A sling abseil can be arranged on the far R of the ledge. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">Below and to the R of the afore mentioned ledge is a right facing corner with two crack systems, one on the L wall, one on the R (outward facing) wall. </text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Blue Lotus" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Takes the L line, moving R into the corner at the top to avoid a large, loose block. Abseil from the ledge as for Six Bells Chime. M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Jun 96.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Chasing The Dragon"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Climbs the R line. Start about 2m R of the corner, climb a R facing flake which tends L to the line. Follow the line with small wires for pro, past a slight deviation L on the face, to regain the crack system after a metre or so. Continue up to the ledge as for Six Bells Chime to finish. S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="11B" grade="22" length="30m" name="Too Tall Oxen"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Start just R of Chasing the Dragon, just before a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges, Dec 03.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Vena Cava" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">This vital line resisted a number of attempts by different parties before a sneaky solution saw it go easily. The very overhanging corner between Chasing the Dragon and Ilkley Roof, starting at the L of the wave washed platform that must be crossed to reach Aquaphobia area. Avoid offwidth at base gracefully (inevitably a little run out without a five/six Camalot), then follow steep corner. Awkward exit up headwall to belay at large ledge. Abseil from 2 wires in face above ledge. Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Oct 99. </climb>
<text
class="Discussion">From here the ledge drops away into a water funnel (which in bad weather can be quite dangerous) and rises on the other side to a big ledge.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Ilkley Roof" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Takes the striking corner roof feature on the outward facing nose L of Aquaphobia. A second, runnerless, pitch can be done. B.McMahon, J.Fisher, 1996. </climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="Team Caffeine"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The line of bolts to the left of Aquaphobia. Garry Phillips, Feb 04.">The line of bolts to the L of Aquaphobia. Garry Phillips, Feb 04. </climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" length="25m" name="Show Time" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained. Garry Phillips, Feb 04.">Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained. Garry Phillips, Feb 04. </climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="25m" name="Aquaphobia" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="This takes the first line on the left end of the brilliant huge right facing wall. Power up to the third bolt then do a delicate traverse right and up to a layback crack, finish at a rap station. This wall is so good, any climb on it would be an instant classic S.Edwards, Sep 95.">This route starts up the L side of the brilliant, R-facing wall and then makes a memorable rising traverse over to the R side. Power up to the third bolt, then do a delicate traverse R and up to a layback crack, finishing at a rap station. S.Edwards, Sep 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="25m"
name="Don't Ride The Wild Wave" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="This climb starts 5m right of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and left to finish up Aquaphobia. G.Phillips, Sep 95.">This climb starts 5m R of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and L to finish up Aquaphobia. G.Phillips, Sep 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Deep Blue" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The line of bolts to the right of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish. Cam Veal, Feb 04.">The line of bolts to the R of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish. Cam Veal, Feb 04. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17/18" length="28m" name="Carthage" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The bow shaped corner at the R of the beautiful face. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty with the crux midway up the overhanging section. Abseil from bushes at the ledge to escape. H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Ad Parnassum" new="false"
number=""
stars="">About 10m R of Carthage is another crack line (just L of the arête). Climb this, starting at the very base of the crack, with the crux passing through the small roof. Take care of the large loose block which must be passed to enter the final corner crack. Abseil from the bushy ledge. M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Oct 94.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="28" length="35m" name="Déjà Vu" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Nick’s 10 hours of bolting at the end of 2003, and numerous fear and wave frustrated attempts, finally paid off. One of the most spectacular climbs anywhere! From an isolated ledge 5m R of Ad Parnassum, climb rightwards then up to a tiny ledge in an awesome position on the arête. Hard moves above lead into a finger crack, and another opportunity to mess up, before more reasonable climbing to a TBB. 13 bolts, and you will need a couple of cams for the belay at the bottom. N. Hancock, Feb 2008. </climb>
<text
class="heading3">Hades</text>
<text
class="Discussion">Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m. From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, it's apparent that the cave connects to the east side of the point (presumably the cave at Inferno) since water can be seen entering from around a corner at the back. </text>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="25 (22A0)" length="70m" name="40 Degrees South"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. 1) 15m 20 Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2) 35m 23 Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse left and up to belay on large ledge. 3) 15m 25 (sting in the tail pitch) Climb the fantastic over hanging wall above to exit to the right of the roof. Equipped: Garry Phillips 12/05. F.A. Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27/12/05. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want. Access: Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates.">An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling.
1) 15m 20 Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar.
2) 35m 23 Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge.
3) 15m 25 (sting in the tail pitch) Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof.
Equipped: Garry Phillips, 12/05. FA: Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27/12/05.
Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.
Access: Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route.
See the access section for GPS co-ordinates.</climb><climb
extra="DWS" grade="20" length="" name="High & Dry"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Traverse R from Hades to Meadowbank. Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the R end of the Furnace. Nick Hancock, Feb 03.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Holy Smokes Wall</text>
<text class="text"
new="false">Around the other side of the big cave, as if accessing the multi-pitch 40 Degrees South there is a very steep over hanging wall. There are two routes on it.
</text>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" length="20m" name="Holy Smokes" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then heel hook over the lip and mantle on to the slab and up to chains, exposed. Garry Phillips December 05.">Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then heel hook over the lip and mantle on to the slab and up to chains. Exposed. Garry Phillips, Dec 05. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Project" new="false" number=""
stars="">R of Holy Smokes. </climb>
<text
class="heading3">The Furnace / Land's End</text>
<text
class="DiscussionNoIndents">Land's End is the area of cliffs at the southern tip of Dauntless Point, regardless of whether that cliff is on the east or the west face. The only access to these cliffs is by abseil (or by a very long swim) but do not be put off. The area is very pleasant (particularly in the afternoon) with good, safe ledges (between 1 and 15m from cliff base to edge) well above the waves on most days and some fairly easy climbs enabling a quick escape to the top if necessary.</text>
<text
class="DiscussionNoIndents">On the west face, the northern end of Land's End is marked by an abrupt change in the nature of the cliff. The strangely jagged featured rock suddenly switches to a very overhanging wall, the Furnace. While not as tall as The Paradiso, The Furnace is a little steeper still and should receive some more attention in the future. </text>
<text
class="DiscussionNoIndents">More northerly still, the ledge at the base becomes a mere hanging footpath, and the cliffs become easier angled and smaller. The one ledge is used to access all climbs on the western face. </text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="12m" name="Nearing The End"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb the L facing corner only a meter or so before the northern end of the ledge. M.Jackson, A.Vincent, May 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Haliaeetus" new="false"
number=""
stars="">10m to the R of Nearing The End is a crack starting in a short, steep corner chimney. Bridge this then follow the easiest line. D.James, H.Jackson, May 95.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion">A thin ledge exists at the top of the steep wall of the Furnace. Since the climbing above this is only very slightly overhanging, the following two climbs are better done as two pitches each.</text>
<climb
grade="24" length="25m" name="Flesh Flounder"
stars="">This steep climb takes the crack up the middle of The Furnace which has a small, sloping, hanging ledge at about 3m. Steep sustained jamming required. Finish up the easier wall above. J.Fisher, P.Steane, May 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Prayers on Fire"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Ascends the second last and last full length cracks on the R of The Furnace. Start below the L crack and climb up to the horizontal break. Traverse to the R crack and climb this until the L crack can be gained to finish the overhanging wall. Finish up the easier wall above. Originally graded 24 on first ascent... M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Feb 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Throne of Blood"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">On the furthest R of The Furnace a short, steep layaway crack leads quickly to a slab above. Climb this then traverse diagonally R across the slab, to access the steep hanging corner high on the R (to the R of Pale Fire). Climb this corner to finish (easier climbing in an exciting position). M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="28m" name="Pale Fire" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Starts just to the R of Throne of Blood and heads straight up the short corner, onto the slab and on up the steep L-tending corner above (to the L of Throne of Blood). Exit the top of this out L onto the face (crux) then up to finish. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 95. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Burnout" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">About 5m L of Stone Biter. Head L up a R-facing wall then around arête to the steep slab. Up to ledge then more easily to top. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Stone Biter" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">At the top of the cliff and about 10m to the L of the upper corner of Serrator is a chimney feature, overhanging about 45° rightward. Climb grooves below this to ledge then into the chimney. The brilliant crux is stepping out onto the airy arête to exit the blocked chimney, 1m below the top. Highly recommended. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Oct 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Serrator" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The clean, upper corner of this climb finishes at the last piece of the point which can be easily accessed by foot and can be distinguished by its fawn (instead of blue-grey) coloured rock. 1) 20m. Start in the corner roughly below this. Climb the corner then back L up groove finally to a difficult mantelshelf onto the big ledge. 2) 15m. Up the enjoyable corner. P.Jackson, M.Jackson (alt), Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="13m" name="Carrighfergus"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Climbs the pleasant face about 5 metres L of Sinkiller. The wall is steeper and more difficult than it appears. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="13m" name="Sinkiller" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">A short, very overhanging corner is the dominant feature of the R most part of this side of the cliffs. Climb easily up slabby rock to a ledge, then tackle the very overhanging (for Tasmania) corner. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion">The following climbs are on the east face of Lands End and can be accessed by abseil only (this is easily done from the rocks at the southern most end of the point). Once down, one can scramble around without too much trouble, but no extensive ledges exist. This area has a wonderfully unique atmosphere. </text>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="30m" name="Marlin" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">An excellent hanging groove leads up to the ledge at which Pale Fire and Sinkiller finish (one can scramble down to this). Start below the groove, at the south eastern tip of the whole point. Climb up to the groove, enter it (crux) and climb it (trickier than it looks). A strong line. H.Jackson, D.James, Jun 95.</climb>
<climb
grade="13" length="30m" name="Selkie"
stars="*">This climb takes the line down which the western abseil goes. Climb easily up through the small roof at about 8m then on to the top. The climbing is pleasant although the protection is sparse. P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="35m" name="Seasick" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Takes a wandering line around the roofs to the L of Persephone. Not very interesting, but might make a good easy escape route. A.Vincent, M.Jackson, Jun 95.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="35m" name="Persephone" new="false"
number=""
stars="">There are two 45 degree angle roofs about 15m R of Selkie. Start on the ledge down lower just past the second of these. Climb the easy corner then move onto the arête above the roof. Climb this arête and face to the top. A little contrived and with long runouts. M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
value="Meadowbank">Meadowbank</text>
<text
class="Discussion">Meadowbank. A place. Moving further right from Persephone, the cliff becomes an area of easy rock and indistinct gully features which may be variously ascended at a standard of grade 2 or harder, providing unroped upward access for cautious, competent people. A large ledge roughly marks the north eastern boundary of Land's End. To the right of this the cliff steepens once more, eventually transforming into a dark sea cave. The following climb takes the diagonal directly above the lip of the cave, from the right. </text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Ishmael" new="false"
number=""
stars="">This route (and Volunteers Abroad) are accessed by abseiling off Meadowbank to a large, chossy ledge just R of Persephone. The attractive line 12m R of the abseil ledge. Beware of loose rock. 1) 15m 11. Traverse Northwards from abseil ledge to an obvious cave ledge full of rounded, bulbous knobs. Belay. 2) 35m 15. Climb diagonally up and L of the overhanging roof of the cave to good vertical spike. From this, go up pocket-filled wall with crack on its R, cross over Volunteers Abroad and climb directly to the top. S.Jarman, S.Bray, A.Passmore, Jul 97.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="105m" name="Volunteers Abroad"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Traverses the strong horizontal line at half cliff-height, crossing above a huge cave and up the major corner L of Moloch. Loose and sparsely-protected. 1) 45m 11. Traverse the hanging slab (20m above sea-level) towards a cave. Belay under roof, above south lip of the sea cave. 2) 30m 15. Continue traversing, over the cave, then crank out on the R wall to exit from beneath roof. Belay on ledge around arête on R. 3) 30m 14. Follow large corner with crack above, veering L onto slab to finish. H.Jackson, A.Roberts (alt.), Jul 97.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Moloch" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Abseil down the cliff about 20m north of the corner above the cave. From here scramble to the arete that forms the mouth of the cave. 1) 27m. Climb the east face of the arête (sparse pro) to a very loose ledge. 2) 23m. Traverse down L and around to the dark face above the cave. Follow the diagonal (spectacular but easy) heading up just before the corner is reached on strange rock (though a little loose). B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Oct 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="45-50m" name="Impalation"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Takes the second arête north of Moloch. There is potential for many very easy slab routes in this area but none would be very good due mostly to poor rock. 1) 40m. Up to a ledge about 5m below the top. 2) 5-10m. Escape to the world above (loose and variable). Not recommended. M.Jackson, A.Vincent, H.Jackson, Sep 94.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="53m" name="Inferno" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">A dark and evil classic. This takes the line up the face of the ferocious cave 150m north of Moloch. It is believed that this cave connects with Hades on the other side of the point. Once the cave entrance has been spotted (since it enters the cliff at an angle, it can be seen from the south only), set up an abseil rope (leave it fixed) to abseil down just north of the R arête of the cave (taking extreme care on the appallingly loose cliff top). Scramble round to a spike at the R of the cave entrance (about 3m tall and 7m above the water) to start. 1) 48m. Step down L toward the cave and traverse to the triangular ledge. Climb up and L onto the overhanging face of the cave entrance and on up to the ledge (an awesome situation in rough seas ). Up the huge corner (initially a little loose) until an escape can be made R to the ledge just below the top. 2) 5m. Escape to the loose cliff top. NB: Belaying at the big ledge half way up would give more balanced pitches. H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Aug 94.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The following climb weaves through the impressive labyrinth of roofs that cap the tallest part of the East Face of Dauntless Point.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="80m" name="Dirty Equation"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A disturbing climb with nauseating exposure. It has its fair share of loose rock at the scary bits. Start just below the L end of the cap roofs of the slab of Dauntless. To access, either climb the first pitch and a half of Dauntless OR abseil from the highest point of Dauntless Point (about 45m abseil - 30m of which is in free space). 1) 5m 16. Climb through the bulge forming the L end of the roof to belay on the face below the next overhang. 2) 40m 15. A convoluted pitch to pass the next roof overlap. Traverse R-wards until the roof finishes, then traverse back L above the roof to belay about 5m above the previous belay. 3) 15m 16. Climb up to the back of the next roof, then traverse L to the hanging arête (the technical and psychological crux). Climb the short hand crack up the arete to belay on ledge. 4) 20m easy. Move along the ledge to the R then climb up easy ground to the top. Hamish and Marcel Jackson, 1997.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="105m" name="Dauntless" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Another excellent adventure (wear a helmet). Although the rock on the slabs to the north of this climb is extremely poor, the rock on Dauntless is at worst adequate and at best brilliant. At the highest point of the Dauntless Point, the east facing slabby cliffs are capped by numerous big roofs. Abseil immediately before (i.e. to the north) the first of these down the edge of a very chossy slab for 50m. From here a second abseil can be made off the L edge of the slab into the corner and down to a significant ledge about 15m above the water. The rock takes on a different character from here. 1) 40m. Traverse L into the next mammoth corner then up the slab, tending L of the first roof to belay. 2) 20m. Traverse L along the horizontal to belay to the L the roof. 3) 35m. Up the face to another huge roof then traverse L across to a ledge on the L arête of the face. 4) 10m. Up easily to the top. H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jun 94.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Mount Brown Main Face</text><text class="text"
new="false" number="null."
value="The main face of Mount Brown itself has seen little attention to date, possibly due to every sane person on the planet being rightfully terrified of the thing. However, the addition of the five pitch route Time Goes Bye may change this.">The main face of Mount Brown itself has seen little attention over the years, possibly due to every sane person on the planet being rightfully terrified of the thing. However, the addition of these high quality and mostly safe multi-pitch routes has started to change that.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Approach via the walking track to the summit of Mt Brown. When approximately 50m from the trig station, head west towards Cape Raoul towards the highest point at the cliff edge and locate the abseil anchors on the edge of the cliff (either by using the GPS co-ords listed at the start of the guide, by looking for cairns, or the following description).</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Once near the edge of the cliff, locate the largest rocky area close to the edge, which is approximately above the highest point of the cliff. There are two distinct trees/bushes right on the edge of the cliff in the rocky area. The top bolts for IHIAB are on the L edge (facing out) of this rocky area, concealed under the L most small bush. It is hard to describe, but look for a cairn and you should find it. The top of TGB is about 25m to the R (facing out), where there is a thick tree 8m from the edge. You can fix a rope to this tree and use it to protect the scramble down to the top bolts, which are on a ledge just below a boulder at the top of the cliff.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Be very careful at the edge of the cliff, because there are many loose rocks and the wind gusts can be quite strong. If you fall off the edge you will experience a rather unpleasant landing in the water.</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Be very careful at the edge of the cliff, because there are many loose rocks and the wind gusts can be quite strong. If you fall off the edge you will experience a rather unpleasant landing in the water.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" src="mtbrownMainFace.jpg"
width=""/><climb extra="(or 20A0)" grade="23/26" length="115m"
name="Time Goes Bye" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Gear required: double ropes, 15 quick draws, medium to large set of wires, #.05, #1, #1.5, #2, #2.5 & #3 cams and helmets. Note that this gear list does not allow for rapping the route. 1a) 25m 22. From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above (mixed gear). 1b) 30m 22. From the belay traverse left to the big spike, from here head up and then back right to the belay. 2) 15m 15. An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. 3) 25m 22. Spicey moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #1.5 and #2.5 cam. 4) 20m 19. From the belay traverse up and left to the corner, follow this and exit right at the top to the belay (mixed). 5) 30m 23. From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux to the top (fully bolted). Equipped: Kim Robinson, Garry Phillips, Simon Young. FA: Garry Phillips, Simon Young (in a team effort), 04/07.">The first route on the wall. Work was started on it many years prior, then it lay there waiting and begging to be climbed before it was eventually completed! GPS coords (listed at the start, code MBR050) will make finding the start easier. Otherwise, find the IHIAB raps, which are in horizontal rock at the top, and walk 25m along the cliff top then look behind a large boulder below there.
1a) 30m 23. From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay.
1b) 25m 23. From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above (mixed gear).
2) 15m 17. An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear.
3) 25m 22. Spicey moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2.5 cam for between 1st and 2nd bolt.
4a) 20m 20. From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, follow this and exit R at the top to the belay (mixed). Wires and small (finger tip sized) cams are useful in the corner. Gear to #1.5 friend.
4b) 20m 26. The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with fun moves near the top! Could be harder!
5) 30m 23. From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux to the top (fully bolted).
Equipped: Kim Robinson, Garry Phillips, Simon Young. FA: Garry Phillips, Simon Young (in a team effort), April 2007.
Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 15 quickdraws, medium to large set of wires, #.05, #1, #1.5, #2, #2.5 & #3 cams. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.
</climb><climb
extra="(or 22A0)" grade="24" length="210m" name="Talk is Cheap"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Another crazy route on the big wall of Mt Brown. This is the best and most sustained of the trio! This route requires mandatory free moves of grade 22 in order to get out.
Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051).
1) 10m 14. From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall.
2) 35m 24. One crazy pitch! Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps.
3) 25m 22. Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof.
4) 15m 16. Up slabs above to the chill out ledge.
5) 20m 20. Plug in a few cams (#2 & #1 Camalot) then blast up the wall to another stance.
6) 30m 24. Head up and R through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.
7) 25m 22. Move R around the arête, up to #2 Camalot crack and then up the line above. Have fun!
8) 20m 19. Continue up the corner above requires #1 & #.75 Camalots at the top.
9) 25m 17. Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge (#.5 Camalot if you want).
10) 10m 8. Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.
Equipped: Garry Phillips and Simon Young. FA: Garry Phillips and Simon Young, October 2008.
Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The start of I’ve Heard it All Before is best accessed with the use of three ropes, as the top 40m is best left fixed. Climb the rest of the route on double ropes. Descriptions are given if looking at the cliff (i.e. climbers left or right).
From the top of the cliff locate the rap anchors with a GPS (MBR051) or description above. Now fix one of your ropes in hard and make a 10m rap to the ledge, from here re-belay at the next lot of anchors and rap a further 25m to the next ledge. From here thread the ropes and pull them for the rest of the route.
The next rap is 40m from here to Deano’s ledge.
From Deano’s ledge, rap off the bolts on the RH side of the ledge. Tension traverse R (using bolt high and R) after about 25m to reach the next anchors. Note: from Deano’s ledge DON’T RAP DOWN IHIAB as it’s epic and takes 5 times longer!
From here rap easily down the slab to the large vegetated ledge (50m). From the ledge locate the anchors on the far RH side and rap down to the water. Rap this on a single rope and leave it fixed. If you pull them they will land in the ocean! Climb this bottom pitch on one rope.</text><climb
extra="(or 20A0)" grade="23" length="225m"
name="I've Heard It All Before" new="false" number=""
stars="***">A nice little day out that takes you from a ledge just above the water all the way to the top of the cliff. For full value go down when the swell is pumping a monster SW. It's nuts! Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051), or use description above.
1) 30m 12. From the ledge just above the sea follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above.
2) 15m 10. The face and slab above to the Botanical Gardens ledge.
The route continues from the L end of the Botanical Gardens ledge.
3) 15m 18. Traverse L past the letterbox slot to the next ledge. (fully bolted).
4) 25m 19. Up corner to short slab, then follow triple cracks to the ledge on L. (take all your cams)
5) 20m 14. The fantastic juggy ramp under the big roofs, finishing at The Come Again Belay. Amazing! (fully bolted).
6) 25m 17. Head up ramp on the L then cut back R across the break to nice small ledge above the ocean. Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch! (fully bolted).
7) 15m 22. A bouldery pitch up the steep corner and flake system to Deano’s Ledge (fully bolted).
8) 40m 23. Step off L end of ledge and climb the awesome pocketed face to the nice hand crack, then on to the next ledge.
9) 25m 21. Up the crack, then break R to incut flake line and then move back L to slopey finish. A little intimidating! (fully bolted).
10) 10m 8. Scramble out easily with extreme care.
Equipped: Garry Phillips (with much help from Deano on the lower pitches); FA: Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins, November 2007.
Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, set of cams from finger tips to #3.5 friend with doubles around #1.5 Friend to #2.5 Friend. Screwgates for the belays. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length=""
name="I've Heard It All Before Variants" new="false" number=""
stars="**">If the swell allows, either of these two pitches are a much more memorable way to start the route. They are accessed by rapping off a belay at the very R end of the Botanical Gardens ledge down a black groove to a hanging DBB about 2m above the water (though some days it may actually be 2m below the water...). Refer to the yellow lines on the topo. Both pitches share the second half and both are fully bolted.
1a) 30m 19. The LH line. (FA: Simon Young)
1b) 30m 20. The RH line. (FA: Garry Phillips) 
There are three more variant pitches that go up from the Botanical Gardens ledge to the right of the main route, which Garry has to write better descriptions for:
2a) 18
3a) 18
4a) 18</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Crescent Bay</text><text class="Discussion"
new="false">Crescent Bay is the gorgeous sandy beach on the eastern side of the Mt Brown peninsula-ette. There is climbing to be done at the cliffs at either end of the beach on single pitch dolerite buttresses typical of the area. To get there, continue on the main walking track another 10 or 15 minutes past the turn off to the Paradiso to an intersection, where the track heads up to Mt Brown summit. Take the track E towards Crescent Bay. Alternatively (and quicker), park at the end of Dog Bark Road (turn off is 1 km before Remarkable Caves car park) and follow the track that will deposit you in the middle of Crescent Bay. Note than this approach passes through Dick Smith’s planned eco-tourist-resort site, so the availability of this option may change shortly.</text>
<text
class="heading3">South Veil Cliff</text>
<text
class="Discussion" new="false"
number="null.">The first climbs described here, at South Veil, are about 1 km SE from the south end of the Crescent Bay beach. To get there, walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs at the SW end of Crescent Beach, deviating into the scrub where necessary, but sticking to the shoreline where possible. You will eventually reach an impressive little inlet that houses the Veil Cliff. On the southern side of the Veil Cliff another cliff extends out of view – the aptly named South Veil cliff. Walk around the top of this, and then scramble onto the wide platform and abseil to the series of slabs and ledges at the base.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Chicken Shute"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Several metres L of Southern Fury follow the crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think better of it and step R onto the ledge and finish up the L-facing corner slot. Dave James, Mark Allen, July 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Southern Fury"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Bridge and layback the R-facing corner then hand-jam the superb crack to the top. Dave James, Mark Allen, July 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Northern Brewery"
new="false" number=""
stars="">2m R of Southern Fury a short crack leads to the L end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and wall, then traverse R below orange slab groove to the arête and top. Dave James and Mark Allen, July 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
name="Excuse me while I kiss this guy" new="false" number=""
stars="">At a large short R-facing corner, flakes and delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the R and a further R-facing corner and fist crack. An easier start would be to step a couple of metres R, mantle then step back L. Ian Riley and Dave James, July 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="17m" name="Human Beans" new="false"
number=""
stars="">At the next ledge R of Excuse me while I kiss this guy, a R-facing corner leads to easier ground. Climb the twin cracks and corner, then continue to small R-facing corner and layback to top. Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, July 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Sentient Beans"
new="false" number=""
stars="">R of Human Beans, scramble to higher ledges then climb cracks to top of blunt arête. Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, July 2002.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Veil Cliff</text>
<text class="Discussion"
new="false"
number="null.">Beyond the last point visible from Crescent Bay lies a concealed treasure. At the far E end of the crag one reaches a tiny promontory looking over the main cliffs. This promontory makes a corner that is Stonespell. The first two climbs have their own little ledge at sea level that is accessed by rapping down Stonespell.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="30m" name="Shegold" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible from the promontory. From the spike just L of Stonespell, head up for a few metres to make an exciting traverse L. Follow the L-trending jug-trail to a grassy ledge and then press on to the top. Dave James and Matt Jones, June 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="25m" length="16" name="Stonespell" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The thought-provoking corner made by the promontory. You can't get lost. Dave James, Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, June 2002.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The following routes are accessed by rapping from the ledge system below and SE of the promontory.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="7m" name="Fathom" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The thin hand crack immediately L of ASCJ. Tim Whelan, Dave James, 26 Jan 02.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="A Sister Called Jamaica"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The arete at the left end of this small wall. Gear and holds found to the right of the arête. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002</climb>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">It is straightforward in reasonable swell conditions to traverse R around to another ledge and the following climbs.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="7m" name="Seagulp" new="false"
number=""
stars="">L of Bob the Kelp Kelpie, two cracks lead to a rounded flake jug. Climb the L crack first, then the R at the flake. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Bob the Kelp Kelpie"
new="false" number=""
stars="">If you won't get wet feet, step off the kelp onto the wall then mantleshelf. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Playstation</text>
<text class="Discussion"
new="false"
number="null.">Don't blink or you'll miss it! The Playstation is situated about 10 minutes walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs from the SW end of Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a world class climbing destination, The Playstation provides an alternative destination if the swell is up, or there is a cold southerly at the other Mt Brown cliffs. Descent is simplest by down climbing at the southern end of the "cliff". Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a very neat and clean L-facing corner some 4m tall, to the left of which is a short hand-crack. The following climbs are described left to right from the corner. From the L end of the Playstation wall, another clifflet rises from sea level with an obvious horizontal break called "Lets Get Horizontal".</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Tims Route" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The L-facing corner at sea-level, which may or may not be splashed by the wet stuff. Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Lets Get horizontal"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A fun traverse of the horizontal, beginning higher on the slabs and finishing at the L end of the Playstation wall. Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">These routes start R of the blank and clean L-facing corner described above.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="5m" name="Nintendo" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The short wide chimney and R-facing corner. Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="5m" name="Souper Mario" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The crack system and overhanging block between Nintendo and Dreamcast. Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="6m" name="Dreamcast" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The L-facing corner and hand crack immediately L of Gameboy. Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Gameboy" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Beautiful climbing up the arête to the R. Dave James and Christian Wehba (TR), May 2001.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Wet Wehbas Staircase"
new="false" number=""
stars="">3m R of Gameboy a short R-tending crack leads to the large and easy corner. Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Standup Point</text>
<text class="Discussion"
new="false">Standup Point is the rocky point south-east of the north end of Crescent Bay. The rock is pretty good; and the routes, while short, are generally very enjoyable. To get there, follow the shoreline from the end of the beach. At the first arch (you will know it when you see it), look for a track continuing to the point heading through the scrub (marked by a cairn.). Further along, you will pass a second arch, near which is a short wall with four distinctive cracks called (L-to-R): Double, Double, Toil, and Trouble. The point is not far past this; all up, about 20 minutes from the beach.
Note: the Jackson family climbed here back in the early 90s and may have done some of the climbs listed here before (probably predominately top-roping), but no details were recorded.</text><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">This mini-route is on the first ‘decent-sized’ wall closest to Crescent Bay, which faces E. It can be seen clearly from a vantage point opposite. Scramble down the easy ramp to get to the base (if you are inspired to climb it, that is).</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Lemon Ruski" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The gritty and awkward hand crack. Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The following routes are on the most extensive buttress in the area, right at the tip of the point. To access the spacious ledge at the base, look for a scungy, slippery, and easy-angled corner and slide down this (taking care not to land in the water). A saner, more pleasant option is to abseil in. A good landmark for identifying routes is Free-Range, a fairly distinctive face at the L end of a small cirque of cute routes. About 25m R of this is a small, square cave, which is also a good landmark.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="7m" name="Fuzzy Logic" new="false"
number=""
stars="">10m L of and around the corner from Free-Range. The perpetually wet and impotently short hand-crack. Dave James and Ben Rhee, June 2002. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="8" length="10m" name="Ascentionists Anonymous"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The slabby corner is not really worth risking your life over to solo it, but it is actually pleasant enough beginner’s lead. July 2008.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Digital Vertigo"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The finger crack just L of Free-Range may be short, but it's pretty spicy. Climb the crack to the ledge, then hop up the square corner directly above. Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sept 2008.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Free-Range" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb the cool chicken-heads to the ledge, then step R to the short hand crack and up to the top. Unusual rock with some very nice, committing climbing. Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Udopian" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Just a few metres R of Free-Range. Jam and stem the V-slot-chimney-hand-crack-thing. Dave James and Ben Rhee, June 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Rocquette Science"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Up the shallow dihedral (or use flake on the R), then step L to slopey stance and motor up the pocketed head wall. Good climbing that is well protected by small to mid sized cams. Dave James and Dean Rollins, August 2008.</climb><text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The cliff breaks down for a bit now, but never fear, climbable rock soon returns. The next routes start on a slightly elevated terrace at the far R end of the cliff, which is gained with a tiny scramble.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="14m" name="Parachute Girl"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start at the featured off-width 5m L of the square cave. A slightly committing start leads to a welcome rest. Continue up the steep hand-crack in the corner. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Know Your Chicken"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The line starting at the L side of the square cave, with an interesting crux section up the fused-slot-thing at the top. Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sept 2008.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Black Russian"
new="false" number=""
stars="">R of the square cave. After a tricky start, follow the line to the top. Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.</climb>
<text
class="Discussion" new="false"
number="null.">The ledge at the base of the cliff terminates for a while, and the cliffs runs straight into the water. This provides an nice opportunity to flex one’s deep-water-soloing muscles.</text>
<climb
extra="DWS" grade="22" length="10m"
name="Hippy Chicks In The Styx" new="false" number=""
stars="**">The face and blunt arête. Nick Hancock, Apr 03. </climb>
<climb
extra="DWS" grade="22" length="15m" name="Blow Me Zoe"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The blunt arête to the R of Hippy Chicks. Mike Robertson, Apr 03. </climb>
<text
class="Discussion"
new="false">The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m further north (towards Port Arthur) and are approached by abseil. The rock is generally not as good, but it has its moments.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Axis of Weevil"
new="false" number=""
stars="">2m L of Enemy of the Steak, climb to a grass tussock and continue up the clean laser-cut corner to the L. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Enemy of the Steak"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The open-featured corner L of Smart Bong. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Smart Bong" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Layback and bridge the two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall. Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Gravy Seals" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Further R, start at featured wall below L end of ledge above. Up past hueco to ledge, then take rib on R to top. Spaced protection, and a shrub belay. Dave James and Dean Rollins, Sept 2008.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Suicide Plumber"
new="false" number="" stars="">This route starts on the next ledge system down, below the manky roof up high. Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner. Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.</climb>
</guide>
|