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<guide><header
access="The crag, about one hours drive west of Burnie, is reached via the C227 (Rocky Cape Road), turning off the A2 about 2.5 km west of the Rocky Cape township. After about 3 km take the second turn to the right leading to the Light House and then follow the walking track to North Cave."
acknowledgement="by Tony McKenny (based on an original guide by Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Rima Truchanas), originally published in Craglets 6."
history="Glen Kowalik was the leading mover and groover back in the early seventies with ascents of Zorro and Shelob Stairs, two quality lines, but the main period of exploration was in the late seventies and early eighties. Local activists from the north west coast including John Richardson, Robert (Bird) Hamilton and Fred Dutton were responsible for pioneering a number of the better routes including the excellent Vader and Jamboree, but it was the dynamic duo of a youthful Nic Deka and Neale Smith, backed up by Nick Williams, who pushed up the grades, and the quality, with classics such as Juggernaut, Virgin on the Ridiculous and the desperate Scary Monster."
intro="Opportunities for quality climbing are a bit thin on the ground in the Northwest of the State but the Rocky Cape crag is a gem. Located at the western end of the National Park, the orange and white quartzite wall offers a range of climbs in an idyllic setting beside the sea. National Park fees apply and can be purchased from the General Store at Sisters Beach, the Rocky Cape Roadhouse (on the highway as you turn into the park), and Service Tasmania statewide. Camping is prohibited in the park and there is no fresh-water near the climbs. The nearest camping is at the Rocky Cape township, Boat Harbour or Wynyard. Aboriginal sites, such as the cave and middens, are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. Phytophthora, root rot, is a problem in the park so make sure your boots are clean before and after your visit. The north (left) end has superb quality rock, hard and glassy, and steep but the rest of the crag is a bit more broken and a little loose in places. Most of the climbs can be climbed in one (at times, long, rope stretching) 50m pitch although many were climbed originally in two pitches or more. Decent from the cliff can be made down the gully just left of Vader. Check out its position, as it can be difficult to locate from the top. Another exit is to walk to the southern (right) end of the cliff and walk down the path. A Girdle Traverse (18) of the whole cliff has been made from left to right reversing Tripping the Light Fantastic and taking a mid line above the caves to finish up Golden Stairs (Tony McKenny, Nick Williams, 1982)"
name="Rocky Cape" new="false" rock="Quartzite 10-25m" sun=""
walk=""/><text class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Zorro Wall</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The walking track can be followed to the Cave. From it, scramble down left towards the sea.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="Rocky_Cape_Topo1.PNG" width="800">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Scary Monster"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Located in the back gully behind (round to the left of) the Zorro Wall. At the top of the gully, on the right hand gully wall. Overhung finger crack into bottomless groove and then up the bulging headwall moving slightly right to finish on slabs of Ent. Poorly protected and probably unrepeated. Neale Smith, Nic Deka</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="One Crowded Hour"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Takes the weakness up the very overhanging wall about 5m right of Scary Monsters . If you're feeling strong, have a go. Nic Deka, Roxanne Wells</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10"
name="Ent">Follow left hand skyline. Fred Dutton, Mike Norris</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12"
name="Seven">Follow obvious diagonal chimney to meet with left hand leaning ramp and belay. Move left and follow widish crack to meet with Ent. Robert Hamilton, John Wood</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" name="End of Works"
stars=" ** ">Climb diagonally up a chimney and continue on through the second pitch of Zorro to belay. Pitch 2.Continue on the diagonal line, jamming awkwardly through the roof. Maintain a diagonal line through to the end of cliff. Neale Smith, Nick Williams</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" name="Jamboree"
stars=" * ">Climb leftwards-leaning ramps to same belay as above. Pitch 2. Continue straight up over small roof and into corner above. Move slightly left to exit. John Richardson, Neale Smith</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" name="Zorro"
stars=" ** ">Climb as above, to belay point. Pitch 2. Move diagonally right to a belay beneath the roof - (look for rotten slings). Pitch 3. Step left and climb roof on extreme left and continue up face above. The direct finish climbs through the roofs straight above the belay (17). Glen Kowalik, Phil Robinson</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="15m"
name="The Nose">Climbs the prominent prow a couple of metres to the left of Virgin on the Ridiculous. Nic Deka, Neale Smith</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" name="Virgin on the Ridiculous"
stars=" ** ">Direct start to Zorro. Climb slightly overhanging orange face to belay point on second pitch of Zorro. Pitch 2. Exit up Zorro or via the direct finish over the roof (17). Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Nick Williams</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" name="Relapse"
stars=" * ">Climb straight up to Left hand edge of Juggernaut and pass over roof at this point. Continue awkwardly to same belay point as Juggernaut. Pitch 2. Finish up either Zorro or Juggernaut. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" name="Juggernaut"
stars=" ** ">Locate triangular roof Right hand side Zorro Wall. Climb directly up and over this to a belay. Pitch 2. From belay, up three metres traverse right three metres, climb overhanging pink face above. Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" name="Tripping the Light Fantastic"
stars=" ** ">Locate curving roof on far right hand wall. Climb directly up to this, and traverse left underneath, continuing across face and finish up in region of third pitch of Zorro. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" name="Lazy Sunday"
stars=" * ">Climb chimney at right hand end of Zorro wall. Finish can be made either up the corner or moving out right up slab. Nick Williams, Neale Smith</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Pink Elephant Area</text><climb extra=""
grade="12"
name="Rockwork Orange">Climbs orange overhanging prow 10 metres right of Lazy Sunday to leftwards leaning chimney. Belay just above chimney to avoid rope drag. Pitch 2. Continue on prow 'til top. Nick Williams, Neale Smith</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11"
name="Nazgul">Just right of Rockwork Orange. Climb leftwards leading diagonal line. This eventually meets up with Rockwork Orange and follows this to top. Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" name="Pink Elephant"
stars=" * ">Locate obvious chimney right of Nazgul. Pink Elephant climbs the face immediately left of chimney. Glen Kowalik</climb><climb
extra="" grade="8"
name="Ate">Climb chimney. Steve Brown</climb><climb extra=""
grade="14" name="Simba"
stars=" * ">After the first three metres of Ate, step right and climb diagonally right under overhang, then straight up face above. Robert Hamilton, John Wood</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" name="Beeline"
stars=" * ">Up three metres as before, traverse right up ramp approximately 3 metres and cross overhang at this point. Continue straight up face above. Tony McKenny, Fred Dutton</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" name="Birds Line"
stars=" * ">Start on ramps to right of Ate. Follow these to a belay under largest part of obvious overhang. Pitch 2. Climb through overhang at weakest point and swing airily left. Continue straight up face above. Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Fred Dutton</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13"
name="God Knows">Climb same ramps as for Birds line but continue through to their extremity. Continue straight up to a belay just right of a tree-choked gully. Pitch 2. Climbs crack in the face above to finish. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Vance Murphy</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13"
name="Crescent">This is the line left of Sickle. A shallow corner near the top provides the main difficulties of the climb. Basil Rathbone, Ross Mansfield</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Cave Area</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="Rocky_Cape_Topo2.PNG"
width="600">null</image><climb extra="" grade="12" name="Sickle"
stars=" * ">Climb up left edge of North Cave and through small overhand heading left slightly to a belay to avoid rope drag. Pitch 2. From belay follow a rightwards line to top. Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" name="Mystery Tour"
stars=" * ">Climb face to right of cave heading for the apex of cave itself. Step airily across lip of cave onto a slab leading to the left. Follow this slab and then head straight up face above. Nick Williams, Nic Deka</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14"
name="Ripping Yarns">Climb to apex of cave via Mystery Tour. Instead of heading left, climb shallow corner straight above apex. Shane Pinner, Murray Hewitt</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" name="Anal Interuptus"
stars=" * ">On face right of Cave, climb the two obvious cracks in face, moving slightly left near top. This climb provides some 'quite awkward' moves. Glen Kowalik</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13"
name="Doggy Do">The climbing is better than the name. This is the corner immediately right of Anal Interruptus. A few layback moves start the climb. These moves lead to a ledge with a tree. Climb slab immediately above ledge. Fred Dutton, Robert Hamilton</climb><climb
extra="" grade="7" length="11m"
name="Countdown">To the right of Doggy Do, near lowest point of the cliff line before the gully. Climb the spur, heading towards the bulge with the layaway edge (appears to be an off width from the ground). Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling</climb><climb
extra="" grade="8" length="11m"
name="Rocket Man">Just right of Countdown. Start around the corner to the left. Long reaches between jugs. Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">The Ramp Area</text><text
class="text">Follow base of cliff around past Rocket Man to a large gully (descent gully). Locate the largest slab on the face and find an obvious overhanging crack at the bottom edge. This is Vader.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="Rocky_Cape_Topo3.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="17" name="Vader"
stars=" ** ">Climb crack on awkward jams and pull strenuously into vertical position. A belay can be made on ledge at the top of the crack. Pitch 2. Traverse awkwardly right across face to the obvious ramp and climb this to the top. John Richardson, Robert Hamilton.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" name="Silent Slab"
stars=" * ">Climb the wide slab from which Vader starts, to a point below a shallow corner where the slab runs out. A belay can be made here. Pitch 2. Climb corner, strenuous and fairly poor protection to top. Neale Smith, John Richardson</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" name="Shelob Stairs"
stars=" * ">Start slightly right of bottom of gully up an obvious crack line to a belay below a slab which runs parallel to Silent Slab but on a lower level. Pitch 2. Climb slab to where it finishes and head up prow to top. Mark Chin, Glen Kowalik, Rick Roles</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13"
name="Narrow Steps">This is a narrow slab below Shelob Stairs and parallel to it. Start up first four metres or so of Shelob Stairs and step right on to narrow slab. Climb this until it finishes and belay. Pitch 2. Step across gully and finish up slab out to the right. John Richardson, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" name="Sky Walker"
stars=" * ">Locate cracks which lead up steep wall to a point halfway along Narrow Steps. This is a strenuous and technically difficult climb. Finish up Narrow Steps. Nic Deka, Shane Pinner</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" name="Golden Stairs"
stars=" * ">Climb slab right of Skywalker. As name suggests the rock is mainly orange in colour. Excellent beginners climb. Graeme Marshall, John Richardson</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" name="Cornered Dog" stars=" ** ">A little difficult to locate. Right at start of Golden Stairs is another slab which although reasonably wide is very short. About one third of the way up this, a very shallow corner system leads continuously leftwards to a finish just right of the Golden Stairs finish. The climbing is on sloping holds and is quite strenuous. Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton</climb></guide>
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