<guide version="3">
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="These two areas are located uphill from Northern Buttress. They provide some interesting and classic climbing. Consult the cliff plan in the Columns section in which both crags are depicted." name="Rockaway and Amphitheatre" rock="Dolerite columns and pinnacles up to 30m" sun="Not much sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading2" id="12">Amphitheatre Ledge</text>
<text class="text" id="13">Uphill and left of Rockaway Gully is another broad gully which leads to an impressive cirque of columns. Perched in the middle of the scree below is a large isolated rock called the Shipwreck (GPS MTW020), which is a great vantage point to get your bearings. Immediately right of the Columns at the head of the cirque is a natural continuation of shorter lines, most of which begin from a ledge 30m below the top of the cliff. This is Amphitheatre Ledge and it can be accessed from below via Exit Entry (see Exit Entry route description below) or from above via abseil from the Amphitheatre Rap Station (30m to Amphitheatre Ledge). <br/><br/>Descent: Either downclimb Exit Entry or abseil from the Amphitheatre Rap Station (GPS MTW130) which is marked by a cairn and blue dots (50m to the cirque floor).</text>
<text id="34" class="text">The first three routes, are accessed by following the track from Northern Buttress, then taking the right fork at the track junction near the Shipwreck and heading up the grassy slope into the head of the cirque.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Afterburner" number="1." stars="" id="16" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, G. Narkowicz, 1983.">This route starts at the apex of the cirque uphill and left of the start of Exit Entry. The route takes the thin crack immediately right of a body chimney that has a bush at half height. Continue past a roof at 12m to finish on Amphitheatre Ledge near the start of Resurrection Shuffle.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="7 " length="" name="Exit Entry" number="2." stars="" id="15" fa="">An easy yet exposed scrambling route to the top of the Pipes that follows the ridgeline leading past Albert's Tomb. Exit Entry is used primarily to access routes on Amphitheatre Ledge and Rockaway Gully and was once the usual decent for many routes on the Pipes. It is still used occasionally as a descent from Sentinel Ridge or climbs in the Columns. <br/><br/>At the track junction near the Shipwreck, take the right fork and walk up the grassy slope into the cirque for 50m to a damp chimney that appears in the wall on the right. Go up the hill a further 5m, before hand traversing back right across a vegetated wall to step across the top of the chimney. Follow a distinct path up through the vegetation and continue past Albert’s Tomb. Ascend a steep 3m wall and follow the path to reach a ramp at the base of the final difficulties. Amphitheatre Ledge veers off to the left from here, with access to the Punk area to the right. <br/><br/>Exit Entry, continues up the right trending ramp before it traverses back left to the base of a 5m chimney that leads to the top. Descend by either down-climbing the route or using the Amphitheatre Rap Station, 10m uphill from the top of the Exit Entry (50m to the cirque floor).</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="15m" name=" James's Arête" number="3." stars="***" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, Mar 1998.">Named in honour of James Moar, a good friend of the first ascentionist, who died climbing in NZ. The track from Northern Buttress to Exit Entry, passes below an orange wall, downhill of Albert's Tomb. The route takes the bolted arête on the right side of the orange wall (i.e. yes, this climb is described out of order so read on for how to find it). To reach the start, branch right off the track going up to Exit Entry, about 20 m past the track junction near the Shipwreck (at this point you are left of the start of the climb). You should quickly pick up a clear route that leads behind a boulder and involves some scrambling in a vaguely up and rightwards direction (grade 8 climbing, possible to protect with red C4 and slings). Any features in or beyond the crack right of the bolted arête are considered off-route (not as contrived as it sounds). Sustained, delicate and high quality climbing leads to a crux high up.</climb>
<text class="text" id="17">The next routes are on Amphitheatre Ledge proper and described left to right. Access from below via Exit Entry or from above via Amphitheatre Rap Station (30m). Descent: Downclimb Exit Entry or use the Amphitheatre Rap Station (50m to the cirque floor).</text>
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<climb>15</climb>
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<climb>24</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
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<climb extra="" grade="11" length="30m" name="Richard Scraper" number="4." stars="" id="27" fa="J. Davies, J. Burgess, Oct 1971.">Starts 3m left of The Munt. Attain a definite ledge at 5m and then continue left up the chimney to another ledge at 25m. The top is reached by a short crack on the right which avoids a messy chimney.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="30m" name="The Munt" stars="" id="26" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, Oct 1971." number="5.">A very striking vee-chimney near the left hand end of Amphitheatre Ledge. Follow the chimney to a large ledge. Up a crack to another big ledge and finish up the left hand of two possible cracks.</climb>
<climb id="46" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="Unnamed arete" length="20 m" grade="25" fa="">Arete climbed on fixed hangers left of Resurrection Shuffle. The first four bolts of climbing are climbed bridged with the outside of 'the munt' chimney. The upper pillar climbed direct is a nice boulder problem. DBB loweroff. Missing the second last bolt hanger as at March '21.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Resurrection Shuffle" stars="**" id="25" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, 1975." number="7."><br/> An exciting layback flake that leads to an aerobic workout finale. Near the left hand end of Amphitheatre Ledge is a layback crack that curves right to meet the base of a hand crack in a shallow corner. Layback and jam the flake to a stance at 12m. Deep and delicate hand jamming up the final 15m is required to prevent permanent scarring of the forearms. Take a few #3 camalots and don't forget that arm-barring is truly good for you.<br/></climb>
<climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name=" Second Coming" number="8." stars="**" id="24" fa="J. Kennedy, S. Parsons, 1985.">The thin finger crack right of Resurrection Shuffle. Climb Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right into the base of the finger crack, then follow this to the top. Originally done with a bouldery direct start, which is a tad harder and not as good.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Ethnic Cornflake" number="9." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Friend, D. Bowman, Dec 1977.">The first line right of the Amphitheatre Rap Station line of descent. Starts from a large ledge with a big block (precariously balanced) on left - scramble up or swing onto it from the rap line. Climb the hand crack, mantle the ledge, then continue jamming to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Bella Donna" stars="*" id="22" fa="G. Tempest, D. Bowman, Dec 1978." number="10.">Another sandbag waiting to happen! A 6” (150mm) tube is useful, or a very large cam (or three) in today's language. On the nose several metres left of Galah Performance is a crack widening from fist size to a chimney at the top with a bush at one-third height. Climb around the bulge and continue up past the bush to a ledge, then up to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="M5" length="25m" name="Bob Gnarly And The Nailers" stars="" id="21" fa="D. Fife (solo), Apr 1982." number="11.">Aid the thin line between Bella Donna and Beast with knife blades and RPs.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Beast" number="12." stars="" id="20" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, S. Brennan, 1980.">The corner above a ledge right of Bella Donna. Jam the corner to the right of the ledge using an intermittent crack on the right. Pull around a block to finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Galah Performance" number="13." stars="*" id="19" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, S. Karpiniec, M. Dunstan, Jan 1975.">One of the classic climbs of the period and the scene of considerable dogging and many repeated attempts, although the climb is probably now easier due to the removal of the concrete cockatoo (hence the name) that once graced the crack. The cockatoo had been placed on abseil by Ken McConnell in the early seventies, sometime prior to the first ascent.<br/><br/>Climbs the sustained crack line just left of Reds Route. Large tubes were used to protect the off-width section at the top (your very large cams will come in handy here) and protection was left in place between lead attempts, but the rope was pulled back down (as was considered 'good practice' at the time). There was some discussion between Kim and Lew as to the grade - was it 19 or 20? You had to be brave to start a grade number with a two in those days, so 19 was decided on... most climbers today will find this just a tad conservative, as this climb has handed out more beatings than Madame Lash!</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="8 " length="30m" name="Reds Route" number="14." stars="" id="18" fa="J. Burgess, M. Emery, Oct 1971.">Climb the large chimney a few metres left of Exit Entry.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="2">Rockaway Gully</text>
<text class="text" id="3">The site of a massive rock fall in 1985, that saw a remnant chunk travel a significant distance down the mountain to block traffic on the pinnacle road. Rockaway Gully is immediately left of the Darkside section of Northern Buttress. Rockaway Gully is bounded by two ridge lines. To its left is the Exit Entry ridgeline, which provides access to the top of the cliffs via a vegetated grade 7 scramble. Albert's Tomb, a conspicuous 10m free standing pillar that is watched over by a resident garden gnome, sits on the Exit Entry ridgeline overlooking Rockaway Gully. The right side of Rockaway Gully is bounded by Sentinel Ridge. <br/><br/>Access to all routes is gained by either scrambling up Exit Entry or downclimbing Exit Entry from the top. Access to Albert's Tomb, is about halfway up Exit Entry and is found off to the right of the scrambling route. <br/><br/>The routes in Rockaway Gully proper are all located on the left hand side of gully and are described left to right starting at the bottom and working back towards the top.<br/><br/>There are two points of access into Rockaway Gully by abseil. <br/><br/>Immediately in front of the base of Albert's Tomb is the Fifth Elephant rap station, providing access to routes in the lower section of Rockaway Gully (25m).<br/><br/>For access for the routes in the Punk Area, continue up Exit Entry to the ramp under the final difficulties. Instead of turning left for Amphitheatre Ledge, turn right and step carefully through a gap onto a ledge overlooking Punk. Set up belay anchors and rap down the line of Punk (25m).<br/><br/>Accessing Rockaway Gully directly from below near Chockstone Gully, is considered by most to be 'death on a stick.'</text>
<text id="43" class="heading3">Albert's Tomb</text>
<text id="30" class="text">Four routes make their way to the top of Albert's Tomb itself, in one way or another. Halfway up Exit Entry and off to the right, Albert’s Tomb is equipped with a rap anchor on top (10m).</text>
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<climb extra="↓ " grade="" length="2m" name="Albert's Tomb" number="15." stars="***" id="7" fa="First Leap: R. Williams, Apr 1967.">This leap of faith is guaranteed to sort out any lingering hangover. From Exit Entry, climb to the top of the platform that overlooks the summit of Albert's Tomb. To sit alongside the little gnome who guards the top of Albert's Tomb requires a little hop from the platform. Not for the faint hearted, as the top of the Albert’sTomb is narrow and to misjudge the distance would be rather embarrassing. The return leap for the platform edge is an even bigger test of composure. Descend by abseil if in doubt (10m). The Mangle is a bent and narrow gutted crack that is an alternative route to the take off platform.</climb>
<climb id="35" name="Priapism" grade="29" length="12m" fa="G. Phillips, Mar 2011" extra="Þ ↓" stars="**" number="16.">Facing down the hill, this route climbs Albert’s Tomb via the arête 3m left of Slap Dancer.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="10m" name=" Slap Dancer" number="17." stars="***" id="8" fa="S. Edwards, Mar 1997.">Funky and physical. A route that has cover photo written all over it. Slap Dancer faces Rockaway Gully and follows the line of bolts between the two arêtes.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="M3" length="10m" name="Sweet Poison Fan Club Crack" number="18." stars="" id="9" fa="D. Fife, R. DeCesare, Nov 1980.">Guaranteed to raise your blood pressure. The hairline crack on the uphill side of Albert's Tomb which expands towards the top. Avoid over-driving your top piton placements or you risk expanding the crack and facing a ground fall when all the gear below you drops out.</climb>
<text id="38" class="text">The following route is on the next platform up from Albert's Tomb. Access by crossing over from the Tomb.</text>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" name="Fall Out" number="19." stars="*" id="10" fa="G. Phillips, J. McKenny, Feb 2000.">The awkward face and crack facing Albert's Tomb. Fully bolted.</climb>
<text id="44" class="heading3">Lower Rockaway Gully</text>
<text id="28" class="text">Access for the the following routes in lower Rockaway Gully is by abseil from the Fifth Elephant rap anchors immediately in front of the base of Albert's Tomb.</text>
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<climb>4</climb>
<climb>5</climb>
<climb>6</climb>
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<climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="The Times They Are A-Changin'" number="20." stars="*" id="4" fa="Jake Bresnehan, Alan Williams, Jan 2008 (not 1968!).">Come senators, congressmen, please heed the call… Takes the wide crack just left of Completion Backwards Principle. Follow perfectly sized squeeze crack of least resistance up. Big gear, a #5 camalot comes in handy for the last 10m.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="27m" name="Completion Backward Principle" number="21." stars="***" id="5" fa="D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982. FFA: A. Williams, Apr 2001.">Superb climbing up a seam. With the aid of some retro-bolts this old aid route now goes free. Climbs the thin line on the right hand face of a corner. Take a #1 Camalot for the start, then follow the U-bolts to the top. The route is obvious from scree on the track between Northern Buttress and the Shipwreck.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="25m" name="The Fifth Elephant" number="22." stars="***" id="6" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2001.">The bolted arête, 3m right of Completion Backwards Principle.</climb>
<text id="45" class="heading3">Punk Area</text>
<text id="33" class="text">Punk and Emo are found in upper Rockaway Gully. Scramble up Exit Entry past Albert's Tomb to a ramp at the base of the final difficulties (or alternatively access from the summit and downclimb the top section of Exit Entry). Turn right and step carefully through a gap onto a ledge overlooking Rockaway Gully. This is the top of Punk. Set up abseil anchors and rap in (25m).</text>
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</legend>
</image>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Punk" number="23." stars="***" id="11" fa="P. Bigg, D. Fife, S. Parsons, 1982.">If you're yearning for pure jamming, this baby is for the diehards out there! Don't forget your jamming gloves. Located in upper Rockaway Gully, this crack has gradually widened over the last 20 years. Rap into the gully and belay at the base of the climb. Jam the hand to tight fist size crack to the final layback moves below the ledge. Take a set of camelots from #0.3 to #4, with doubles or triples in sizes #2 to #4 to help relieve your anxiety.</climb>
<climb id="37" stars="" extra="" number="24." name="Emo" length="20m" grade="16" fa="D. Rollins, D. James, Mar 2013.">A couple of lines right of Punk is a hand crack with an alcove halfway up. Rap into the gully as for Punk and belay in a small niche with a spike. Climb the line to the top.</climb>
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