<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<header
access="Access is via the Lenah Valley Track, near the Springs. The quickest way is to park at the junction of the track and the road (limited parking), about 500m up the hill from the Springs on the R. After about 10mins walk, turn R to the Sphinx Rock Lookout, which is the top of the cliff. Access to the base of the crag is by turning R down the Sawmill Track a few metres further on. A few metres past the steps, the Morning Raid wall comes into view on the R. Alternatively, and longer, walk from the Springs (more parking space available) along the track which leaves from just behind the toilet block to join up with the Lenah Valley track. Descent is either by walking off to the R and back down the track or rapping off where rap stations have been provided."
acknowledgement="" history=""
intro="A small sandstone outcrop below the road on the east face of the mountain at an altitude of 700 metres. The sheltered overhanging nature of the rock provides an interesting experience compared with the vertical dolerite of the larger cliffs above. There are some 25 climbs to date, generally short up to 15m. The majority are bolted as natural protection is poor. The most notable feature of the area is the wide roof that caps much of the crag, through which several technically difficult routes up to grade 31 have been pushed. Routes are described R to L, as you approach them."
name="Sphinx Rock" new="false"
rock="Sport routes on overhanging sandstone" sun="Not much sun"
walk="10 min flat walk from the Springs"></header>
<gps
new="true"><point code="MTW400" description="Sphinx Rock"
easting="520211" height="0" northing="5249678"
zone="55G"/></gps>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="10m"
name="Morning Raid" new="false" number=""
stars="">On the overhanging north facing wall by the track down to the main cliff. Climb the centre of the wall with 3 U-bolts and a rap station. You may want to stick clip the first bolt. A bit awkward at the top. S. Parsons, E. Peacock, J. Kennedy, Oct. 1985.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="Rent A Forearm"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The wall L of Morning Raid, 1 U-bolt after some natural gear. Rap station. S. Parsons. 1985
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Duckpond"
stars="">Start as for Mogul. Pull up and mantel onto the ledge at 4m, Move a couple of metres R to a crack/groove, and continue up this to the top. L. Closs, I. Lewis, Jan. 1973.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Mogul"
stars="">The bottomless crack which forms the RH extremity of the main overhang. Pull up and mantel to the start of the crack. Climb the crack and face above to the top. I. Lewis, P. Reynolds, Feb. 1974.
</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="leanmean2.jpg"
width="400">null</image><climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="28"
name="Lean Mean Fighting Machine Direct" new="false" number=""
stars="">The direct start to LMFM. G. Phillips 2005</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m"
name="Lean Mean Fighting Machine"
stars="**">A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish. G. Phillips, Feb. 2004.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="15m" name="Rambo"
stars="**">Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back L and finish through the steep roof. G. Phillips, July 2004.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="30" length="12m" name="Space Invader"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Starts as for Rambo but heads direct. G. Phillips, Sep. 2004.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="31" length="15m" name="Spaced Out"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very sustained piece of climbing. J. Bresnehan, Dec 2005
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m" name="Calm Before the Storm"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo. G. Phillips, Sep. 2004.</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="" name="Storm Trooper"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start. G. Phillips, Sep. 2004.</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="fearfactory2.jpg"
width="400">null</image>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24"
length="8m" name="Ignition Sequence Start" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start 3m R of Fear Factory and follow the bolts past a hard pull at half height. C. Veal, Feb. 2004.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="20m" name="First Blood"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station. S. Edwards, 1997.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="10m" name="Fear Factory"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Start 2m R of Mindbeast. Up to roof then R along lip and up to rap station. Four bolts. S. Edwards, 1997.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="8m" name="The Pie Man"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Climb Fear Factory to the third bolt, then head direct. G. Phillips, Feb. 2004.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Mindbeast" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The difficulties on this are psychological. The impressive hand crack, which splits the main overhang 20m from the RH end. Up the initial slab, then climb the crack through the overhangs. I. Lewis, P. Reynolds, Feb. 1974.</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="phoenix2.jpg"
width="400">null</image>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22"
length="12m" name=" Walk Like An Egyptian" new="false" number=""
stars="*">Starts as for Phoenix. After the first bolt in the roof, head R along the flake system past two bolts to the lip, continuing up the headwall above to a DBB. A. Williams, Oct 2004
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="23m" name="Phoenix" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">More horizontal than vertical. 3m to the L of Mindbeast, below a shallow cave. Move easily up diagonally L via a virtual staircase to the ceiling. Follow the line of flakes and U-bolts across the roof to the lip (and the crux) and continue to the top. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Aug. 1979.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Tutankhamen" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Around the corner from Phoenix, 3m L of the crumbly arête formed where the cliff changes direction to face southeast. Move up a shallow corner to an old bolt and traverse diagonally R towards a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête to the roof, move diagonally R across the roof and round the lip to a small cave. Surmount the final overhang to the top. Could do with some re-bolting. P. Bigg, Aug. 1980.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="24m" name="Pharos" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A 7m excursion across the roof flake immediately L of Tutankhamen. Climb the slanting weakness, 5m L of Tut, up to the first bulge. Over this and R slightly to the roof flake (BR). Traverse the diagonal flake out to the lip. Surmount the lip and continue to the top. Again, needs re-bolting. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, K. Carrigan, Apr. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="17" length="12m"
name="Araldite, Goddess Of Bondage" new="false" number=""
stars="">Start 10m L of Tutankhamen next to a large gum tree. Climb the short wall past 2BRs to a large platform (wire and camming placement here). Continue up from the R hand end of the platform past two more BRs to the top. FA; O. Prall, R. Vincent. Apr. 1992.
</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="8m" name="Firewire" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang. G. Phillips, 2004. </climb>
<climb
extra="↓ " grade="25" length="8m" name="Mr. Wiggles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH. K. Robinson, 1997.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="8m"
name="Short, Sharp and Shit Hot" new="false" number=""
stars="">Some people leave off the "Hot" in their description. Located 40m L of Phoenix at the grotty cave. Climb the steep wall, moving R past two bolts to a rap station with a sling on it. G. Phillips, Apr. 1996. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="White Nile" new="false"
number=""
stars="">L of the main overhang are 50m of short knobbly walls up which any number of easy routes can be found. Routes starting from White Nile take the obvious lines at this end of the cliff. A deep mossy boulder-filled cave is found 40m L of Phoenix. Bridge and jam the overhanging corner crack, then escape L. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Aug. 1980.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="20" length="12m" name="Gandhi" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The RH side of the face to the L of the grotty cave where SSSH starts. Two BR's with lower-off. N. Selby, 2000.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name="Get A Grip"
new="false" number=""
stars="">2m L of the previous route, the LH side of the face. Three BR's with lower-off. N. Selby, 2000.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="9" length="9m" name="Blue Nile"
stars="">The chimney crack 7m L of White Nile. Straight up the crack. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, J. Parsons, Aug. 1980.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="9m" name="Cheops"
stars="">The light-coloured arête on the last substantial buttress in this direction (visible from White Nile). Start below the arête, 4m L of a mossy corner. Up the arête (old carrot bolt runner near the top). S. Parsons, P. Bigg, J. Parsons, Aug. 1980.
</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Sphinx Rock Right Side</text><text class="text"
new="false" number="null.">As you come down the steps to the base of Sphinx Rock there is a short cliff around to the L, with four bolted lines. The first one (on the L) is Panadol (24), the next one is Panadol Forte (27) and the third is a project, around 30, all by Garry Phillips, while the furthest line R is a project bolted by Simon Young. As Garry says, maybe these ain't their finest hour!</text>
</guide>
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