<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="Cape Raoul is 1:45 drive from Hobart followed by a 1:45 walk. Take the Tasman Highway and turn off about 7km past Port Arthur onto Highcroft Rd. Fork right at 2km and right again after another 5km and follow this to the car park (another 3 km). The walk is about 6km and not too hilly – it starts and finishes about 200 m and crests in the middle at about 430 m. There are some good views along the way. Moving quickly and light it is possible to do any of these climbs as a daytrip although it is a big day. Camping on the plateau at the end of the walking track makes for a more relaxed trip, although drinking water needs to be carried. It is also possible to sleep in the car park and make an early start. There is a pond about 15 minutes before the end but the water isn’t drinkable and dries up over summer."
acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets."
history=""
intro="This place is pretty amazing. The trip to the end of the Cape has the flavor of an alpine ridge climb while the new pillar routes are quality sport climbs. The situation is spectacular. Overall, one of the most enjoyable and memorable days out you’ll get anywhere."
name="Cape Raoul" new="false" rock="Coastal dolerite columns"
sun="All day sun" walk="2 hours / 6km"/><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="capeRaoulMap.png"
width=""/><text class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Cape Climbs North of the Wedding Cake</text><text
class="text">For the cliffs beyond where the track finishes there are two alternate approaches. One follows the crest of the ridge down to the first col and was used to access The Finger of Blame (and is described with that route). The other alternative is to drop to the bush below the cliffs on the east side. From there it is possible to walk to the base of The Wedding Cake. It is possible to switch between these routes about half way along (where both involve some walking through bush).</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="cape raoul access.jpg" width=""/><climb extra="" grade="23"
length="14m" name="The Finger of Blame" new="false" number=""
stars="***">This is the thinnest pinnacle visible from the lookout – the last before the Wedding Cake.
1) 200m 12 Abseil off the ridge at the very end of the track: 10m ab off a block; scramble 40m; 5m ab (U’s); 10m scramble; 35m ab (chain). From here scramble/ab down another 20m then walk across and down to the Way of Allah. This ledge system includes a short section of about grade 12 plus another dodgy bit and ends at the Cultural Void.
2) 30m 18 To cross The Cultural Void start by scrambling up the 3m boulder/flake on the near wall to a double bolt belay. From here go diagonally about 5m to a bolt. Lower off this until it is possible to stick-clip a bolt on the far side of the void. Pull across then hand traverse leftwards to the base of The Finger. Airy!
3) 14m 23 Take the arête to the top (fully bolted). Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Norm Selby Dec 2002.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">The Wedding Cake</text><text
class="text">The trip to the pillars at the end of the Cape is pretty amazing and will leave you with a lot of respect for the first descentionists who somehow did it without cams etc. The big lump between The Finger and the end of the Cape was called “The Wedding Cake” by the climbers in the 1960’s.</text><climb
extra="" grade="" length=""
name="Access to Wedding Cake – Low Route" new="false" number=""
stars="">It is possible to get to the Wedding Cake via The Cultural Void as described previously. The low route used in 1967 is quicker - but less scenic! To use this low route go down the gully between the lookout and the Cape (near where the walking track forks) via a 30m abseil (halved 50m rope will only reach if you take about 8m of rope to tie-off the abseil tree with!). To find the top of this gully from the walking track look for the lowest looking part of the terrain (a fairly obvious starting point for a gully!). This is discernible despite the scrub. Then look for a breach in the vegetation (you will know it when you find it). This breach is about 50m along towards the Cape from the point where the walking track forks [or use your GPS with coords: 0564643, 5212380 (WGS84)].
It is awkward to re-ascend the top 25m of this gully so it is advisable to fix a rope here. The walk through the bush is rough and quite eroded, but OK. The route is pretty clear. A new alternative to the gully is a bolted entry/exit route connecting the 40m scramble (described in access to The Finger) and the track. One 50m rap (after the 10m rap) gets you down to the low track at about the edge of the access photo-topo. About grade 17 to re-ascend. This reduces the need to leave abseil ropes in place (although two parties who have used this route don’t recommend it).</climb><text
class="text">There are two routes described to ascend the Wedding Cake.</text><climb
extra="" grade="HVDiff (16?)" length="" name="DC Chimney"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This is mentioned in 1960’s accounts: “the main weakness in the cliffs … the Douglas-Christie Chimney”. I presume it is the chimney left of the off-width (which is left of Rain of Terror). You might see a rusty white nail in the wall near the base. Douglas & Christie, 1960’s.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Rain of Terror"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Goes from the end of the 1967 access route, at the base of the Cake. Start with scramble/climb steeply up to the foot of the old chimney-corner to belay for the 40m pitch above. In the corner is an off-width. Instead take the hand crack 4m right. There is a large ledge at 30 m (which we stopped to haul from) but you can continue up to the col on the north side of the Cake via the wide crack. There are two U’s to belay on at the col. This col is also an alternative access to the Finger of Blame (up the wide crack north of the col). Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Jihad" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">From the col on the north side of the Cake take the hand crack 2m left of the arête. Pleasant climbing in a great position. Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Beyond the Wedding Cake</text><climb extra=""
grade="" length="" name="Route from Wedding Cake to Cape"
new="false" number=""
stars="">1) Walk to the far end of the Cake and abseil (off links) 25m onto the east side. Re-ascending this bit takes about 30 m of rope and is about grade 16 – climb up going left a little to a hand crack – through this (crux) then up and rightwards to a chimney.
2) Walk down then along and up to col (about 100m). Don’t go to the very end of where you can walk but about 20m short.
3) 55m 12. Over a couple of lumps on the ridge. It is possible to reach chains (about 55m) if belayer starts climbing before they are reached. Similar difficulty to reverse.
4) 10m+15m. Abseil down chimney (grade 13 to re-ascend). Walk around towards the next col (about 15m) to reduce drag on the next pitch.
5) 50m 14 From the col follow a descending line of ledges on the eastern side to the base of the Pillars. Similar difficulty to reverse. This trip can be done with a pretty small rack (medium sized cams seemed to get used most and #4 Camalot occasionally).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length=""
name="Alternative Low Level Route from Wedding Cake to Cape via Eastern Side"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Phil Robinson dug up this description from the CCT circular of July 1976.
“A new low-level route was followed to the end of the cape. This was first discovered by Col Hocking and Vili Bartholomew a few months ago. They reached an impasse 20 foot above the waves.
From the foot of 'The Wedding Cake', continue down to the left and round the corner. Scramble up a grassy gully then traverse diagonally down, following the obvious weaknesses. Most of the route is scrambling on steep ground with the sea a few hundred feet below. (Do not slip). Down-climb a 20' chimney (grade 5) and then immediately to the left an 80' chimney (grade 9). This brings one onto a platform some 20' above the sea. Walk round toward the end of the Cape, climb across another chimney and round a corner to the final obstacle - a 20' crack dropping into the swell. At this point a calm sea is required! The crack is wet and difficult to down-climb (grade about 14). 15' above the top of the climb, some nuts can be fixed in a crack. The climber is lowered down to a ledge 3' above the water, which varies from 0' - 4' in depth depending on the swell. On the ledge he gathers some slack rope, waits for the swell to fall, then jumps onto the kelp platform and runs like hell. Only a few seconds elapse before the water crashes in again. The rope is left fixed. One is now on the seal platform - honk-stink. Most of the seals will have slobbered into the sea by this stage. Only a short walk brings one to the end of the cape: and mind-blowing cliffs 4' - 600' high. The number of routes is phenomenal. The return trip is another epic of judgment and speed. One is essentially on the end of a pendulum. When the sea drops one runs to the base of the crack, jams and is hauled up it as quickly as possible. Glen Kowalik, Basil Rathbone, Phil Robinson, John Chambers 4/4/76.” Sounds dodgy in terms of risk from swell!</climb><text
class="text">The pillars at the end are described in the order you reach them (north to south). The first two are modern style and the last two were done in the 1960’s. The Cape appears to have been the site of a lot of activity back then.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="40m" name="Pole Dancer" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">AKA “Power Pole”. This is on the first (northern) pillar.
1) 15m 14. Climb the chimney to a large ledge with DBB on the north side of the Pole.
2) 25m 22. Superb and sustained arête climbing in a wild and amazing place. Fully bolted. Altogether this makes one of the best, and certainly the most memorable routes at the grade in the country. Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="40m" name="Pole Axed" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The next pillar along.
1) 20m 16. Climb the chimney to a large ledge on the south side. Use the first bolt on the next pitch for the belay.
2) 20m 21. Follow the flake to a ledge. Continue up the arête to the top (fully bolted). Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnell, Andrew Irvine, Dec 2003.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="HVDiff & A1?" length=""
name="The Second Pillar of Hercules" new="false" number=""
stars="">This is an excerpt from “The Climbers Log” which I photocopied before it was lost or stolen in the early 1990’s. They numbered the pillars one to four, with one being furthest towards the end of the Cape.
“At 7:00am we left camp, ascended The Wedding Cake and traversed out to the Pillars of Hercules.
We commenced to drill the artificial pitch of the second pillar at 10:15. Five expansion nails had been placed on previous attempts, four of them by Douglas and G Wyatt last May. Another five nails were put in and the summit gained at 1:15pm. Two drills were broken on this occasion. The expansion nails were Dryvins (1 ½ x ¼ inch). (These are looking pretty dodgy now!) The total length of the pillar climbed by this means was approx 40 ft.” Ascent by Mike Douglas and Geoff Batten during Aug 31 to Sep 2, 1967. </climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Pillar of Hercules"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Another excerpt from “The Climbers Log”: “After a 4 am start The Wedding Cake was ascended and the party continued along the ridge beyond the furthest point reached last year. Eventually a route was found to the Pillars of Hercules (Matchsticks) and a long pitch chimneying up airily between two of them led to the top of one. (They don’t say which one, but it may have been just before the Last Pillar, in the vicinicty of the end of pitch 1 of Pole Position). The trip involved Reg Williams, Tom Terry, Mike Douglas and Tim Christie [1967 or earlier].
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="70m" name="Pole Position"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Established ground-up on a very calm day, this route starts from 'seal' level and finishes at the top of the Pillar at the End of the World. From the Wedding Cake, rap off the west side of the ridge (as for Pole Dancer access) and continue along to near the notch where the approach route moves back on to the ridge. On the next platform down (about 8m) from this, rap off to the shore platform below (45m). Walk along the platform, beyond the tip of the Cape until you reach a chimney (just before the seal colony). Climb 5m chimney to block, then climb wall to ledge on L below chimney to start.
1) 30m 18. Cracks and squeeze chimney. Belay in notch at boulder choke.
2) 15m 22. Continue up chimney, moving towards seal colony side to small ledge, then up dog-leg crack to big ledge.
3) 15m 24. The Last Pillar of Hercules. Up R side of large square face, then traverse L along horizontal break to opposite arête. Up this past undercling, then on to top. Take a shoulder length sling.
Descend by counter-weight abseil (or something similar) to first elevated platform in direction of seal colony. Flick your rope off, and the person left on the starting ledge can top-rope the crack east of pillar at 16 to get out. Scramble up to next platform.
4) 2m 1! Hop over the gap.
From here, follow your nose along the ridge back to the base of the other pillars, then reverse the standard access route to exit. A fun day out. Jake Bresnehan, Kim Robinson, Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins (alt), 30 Nov 2008.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Climbs North of the End of the Cape</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Upon reaching the pond a dramatic vista of cliffs is revealed. Sheer 200 m high cliffs extend for the remaining 1 km to the end of the track. Some of the lines have been climbed (Thanks to Dave James for all this info).</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Pond Gully Crag</text><text
class="text">About 20min before the end of the Cape Raoul track, near the ephemeral pond, is a steep valley that runs to the sea. Near the top of the valley and the scree shute, three cracks lead to a somewhat dirty ledge, at about 25-30m</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Baudin" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The left most crack. 1) 20m A neat hand-crack. 2) Continue as for Skyborne (or brave the chimneys straight up...) Dave James, Simon Locke, 2004.">The left most crack.
1) 20m A neat hand-crack.
2) Continue as for Skyborne (or brave the chimneys straight up...) Dave James, Simon Locke, 2004.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18A1" length="60m" name="Skyborne" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The right most crack 1) 25m The right-hand crack (the last 3-4 metres was aided on the first ascent). 2) 40m Climb the corner before moving up and right at the ledge to avoid the unattractive chimney. Once around the corner, climb up the hand-crack with the axe-head at the top, and then the final short face above. Dave James, Tom Diltz and Sam Brewster, June 2000.">The right most crack
1) 25m The right-hand crack (the last 3-4 metres was aided on the first ascent).
2) 40m Climb the corner before moving up and right at the ledge to avoid the unattractive chimney. Once around the corner, climb up the hand-crack with the axe-head at the top, and then the final short face above. Dave James, Tom Diltz and Sam Brewster, June 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="65m" name="Mindfire" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Ascends the left wall of the large chimney left of The Shells of Rheban. The line is not visible from the other side of the valley. 1) 7m Very carefully access the first belay ledge by climbing a few metres up the left facing corner and crack then stepping left. 2) 25m Beautiful climbing leads to a small belay atop a flake. 3) 33m Continue awkwardly though the roof then an opportunity leads excitingly left and up to the final crack (#5 BD Camalot useful), face then final belay of Skyborne. Doug Grubert, Dave James, Feb 2001.">Ascends the left wall of the large chimney left of The Shells of Rheban. The line is not visible from the other side of the valley.
1) 7m Very carefully access the first belay ledge by climbing a few metres up the left facing corner and crack then stepping left.
2) 25m Beautiful climbing leads to a small belay atop a flake.
3) 33m Continue awkwardly though the roof then an opportunity leads excitingly left and up to the final crack (#5 BD Camalot useful), face then final belay of Skyborne. Doug Grubert, Dave James, Feb 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="70" name="The Shells of Rheban"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Perhaps the most obvious line on the cliff. The mediocre 2nd pitch is tolerable after the first 50 metres of magic. The crack splitting a pillar set out from the cliff slightly (about 200m down the gully) that finishes on a large ledge 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Scramble in from the left. 1) 50m 19. The incredible crack. Starts as hand sized, and has some great over hanging sections, before widening to a fist crack towards the top. 3x #3 BD Camalot (or equivalent) useful. A long, tiring pitch. 2) 20m Climb/scramble up and right to the Party Stone and thus the cliff top. Dave James, Hamish Jackson, Oct 1999.">Perhaps the most obvious line on the cliff. The mediocre 2nd pitch is tolerable after the first 50 metres of magic. The crack splitting a pillar set out from the cliff slightly (about 200m down the gully) that finishes on a large ledge 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Scramble in from the left.
1) 50m 19. The incredible crack. Starts as hand sized, and has some great over hanging sections, before widening to a fist crack towards the top. 3x #3 BD Camalot (or equivalent) useful. A long, tiring pitch.
2) 20m Climb/scramble up and right to the Party Stone and thus the cliff top. Dave James, Hamish Jackson, Oct 1999.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="70m" name="Hellfire" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The long corner next line right of The Shells of Rheban. 1) 15m The dirty crack and flaring chimney leads to a dirty ledge on the right. 2) 50m Climb the corner past the large dagger shaped flake to a belay at the top of the corner on the left. 3) 5m Up and right to the Party Stone. Dave James, Tim Whelan, 2000.">The long corner next line right of The Shells of Rheban.
1) 15m The dirty crack and flaring chimney leads to a dirty ledge on the right.
2) 50m Climb the corner past the large dagger shaped flake to a belay at the top of the corner on the left.
3) 5m Up and right to the Party Stone. Dave James, Tim Whelan, 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="70m" name="Hoorayfabob" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="The left facing corner to the right of Hellfire. It awaits a direct start. 1) 15m As for Hellfire. 2) 25m Move right onto the next ledge at the corner base and climb to a semi-hanging belay below a narrow over-lap on the right wall. 3) 30m Continue jamming and pass the roof at the right. Continue to the top and exit via the Party Stone. Margie Jenkin, Dave James, Nov 2000.">The left facing corner to the right of Hellfire. It awaits a direct start.
1) 15m As for Hellfire.
2) 25m Move right onto the next ledge at the corner base and climb to a semi-hanging belay below a narrow over-lap on the right wall.
3) 30m Continue jamming and pass the roof at the right. Continue to the top and exit via the Party Stone. Margie Jenkin, Dave James, Nov 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Gatekeeper Pinnacle"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, a relatively short pinnacle (the Gate Keeper) is detached from the main face by a narrow chimney. The first ascent arranged a rope abseil, if you don’t like it take a big sling. Start at the broken slabs and blocks to the right of the pinnacle. 1) 20m Via the easiest route, climb up and left to the base of the pinnacle and chimney. 2) 30m Placing gear when you can, climb the chimney passing the two chockstones on the outside (cliff right). Tim Whelan, Dave James, Dec 2001.">About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, a relatively short pinnacle (the Gate Keeper) is detached from the main face by a narrow chimney. The first ascent arranged a rope abseil, if you don’t like it take a big sling. Start at the broken slabs and blocks to the right of the pinnacle.
1) 20m Via the easiest route, climb up and left to the base of the pinnacle and chimney.
2) 30m Placing gear when you can, climb the chimney passing the two chockstones on the outside (cliff right). Tim Whelan, Dave James, Dec 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">The Jim</text><text
class="text"
new="false">The Jim is the small buttress further down the valley from the gate-keeper pinnacle. Capped by an unfortunate band of loose and scrubby stuff. The Jim has some fun shorter routes and is the access to routes on the more intricate cliffs above. Descend via the spike abseil (sling required) at the top of Smileshine or keep on climbing.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="25m"
name="Punky Brewster">The chimney and crack 10m right of the left end of the crag. 1) 25m the chimney leads to and past the Punk a large protruding and over hanging flake. Belay carefully at the top of the final hand-crack before scrambling up then right and then down to the Smileshine descent. Dave James, Sam Brewster, Rhiannon Arkins and Ian Riley, 2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="25m"
name="Troublemaker">The dog-legged hand crack to the immediate right of Punky Brewster. 1) 25m, the crack then mantle before moving right to fist crack and block to small left facing corner above (or go left to PB). Belay here before carefully scrambling up through the Badlands before descending seaward and down to the abseil spike. Dave James & Margie Jenkins Dec 2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="27m"
name="Joymaster">Several metres left of the flaring off-width. The shallow left facing corner leads to the right facing corner and cracks above. Dave James and Pete Guiver June 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="30m"
name="Smileshine">The Double cracks and corners a bit further down? Dave James and Pete Guiver June 2000</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Urban Jungle</text><text
class="text">This cliff is above the Jim. Somewhat complicated by mutual ledges and pitches it has some great moderate crack climbing. Features visible from the plateau opposite include the Leaning Tower of Pizza, the Milestone and the Groovy Penguin (Angels of Imagination). Access is by climbing one of the routes at the Jim.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="140m"
name="Ocean of Wisdom">Directly up from Punky Brewster is a short leaning (out) pillar (The Leaning tower of Pizza), immediately to the right is a hand crack.
1) 25m climb the hand-crack past a large flake before stepping right to a small belay in a small corner.
2) 25m continue directly up the corner into a hand and fist crack that leads to a bouldery ledge and possible belay. Walk a few metres to the left to a hand crack in right facing corner and continue to a ledge at the base of the wide chimney.
3) 50m start with the hand-crack and flake continuing to where the arching flake on the left wall may be reached then climb till you cross the line again to the right wall for some face moves before it becomes easy to bridge back to the left wall. Exit the chimney out left, climbing through the tree to belay at small ledge behind a second tree.
4) 35m the natural continuation is directly up the less than attractive wide cracks but the first ascent followed them for a few metres only before an under cling move left gains another Cape Raoul hand crack to the cliff top. Dave James and Mark, Feb 2002</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="150m" name="Journey Agent"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A groovy stone adventure sharing commonalities with SBT.
1) As for Sun Beam Traveller
2) As for SBT
3) 15m Climb the middle of the three cracks. Layback then chimney to a ledge at the base of a chimney/groove possessing a hand-crack and a finger crack
4) 40m A long pitch of jamming up the groove following the hand-crack on the left when the cracks diverge.
5) 35m Moving right to meet with the latter part of pitch 5 of SBT. Tim Whelan and Dave James. June 2001</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m"
name="Sunbeam Traveller">A delightful journey up a wild crag via lovely stone. There are a number of possible belays so split and combine pitches as desired.
1) Climb Smileshine or one of the other routes at the Jim and scramble up to a fist crack and short open left facing corner.
2) 30m climb the fist crack to a ledge and continue up the right facing corner before moving left past a prominent chockstone. Continue up and diagonally left and scramble to belay in wide chimney (small amphitheatre) with 3 cracks.
3) 15m SBT takes the right hand crack. Climb the flaring crack to hand crack and continue through the next hand and fist crack to large ledge at the base and left side of the Milestone pillar (a detached 15m pillar).
4) 15m The narrow but friendly chimney behind the pillar to belay on its summit.
5) 55m Step off the Milestone to its right to funky holds and groovy crack. Moving left at the ledge continue via ledges and corners to a steep hand crack then final corner and top. Dave James and Margie Jenkin Sept 2000</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m" name="Flems Desire"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A variant to routes on CMC. To access climb one of the routes at The Jim (~30m) then traverse round the corner to the right to find a right facing corner with a small slab at its base, start here. This is approximately 10m left of the start of Angels of Imagination.
1) 15m climb the corner to a (small?) ledge backed by two large cracks.
2) 25m step off the ledge into the natural continuation, the V-chimney and fist crack, this leads to a right facing corner with a shrinking hand crack, this leads directly to a short face with a hand-crack and a thinner crack, climb these to a blocky and vegetated ledge below a large chockstone.
3) 15m bridge into the wide crack before carefully moving around the capping boulders to a ledge at the base of the Milestone.
4) 60m Continue as for Pitch 5+ of Sunbeam Traveller. Dave James and Dave Fleming Jan 2002</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="150m"
name="Angels of Imagination">(AKA The Groovy Penguin)
1) 30m Climb Smileshine or one of the other routes at The Jim before traversing carefully right (about 20-30m) and up to a broken left facing corner
2) 20m Climb the corner before stepping right to a ledge then continue up hand-crack on face to a large ledge.
3) 30m Above is a large corner with two large cracks and a spooky stone needle at the base. Bridge and squirm to a possible belay on the left which is at the base of the long chimney behind the Groovy Penguin. Continue over the chockstones and belay on the last one.
4) 40m The long classic chimney pitch. Chimney, chimney, chimney then step to the pillar and climb to belay on top of the pillar.
5) 30m Step back to the mainland and climb mediocre rock to top. Dave James, Margie Jenkin 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Ex-Trig Crag</text><text
class="text">Further along the track from the large valley (or the pond) there used to be a trig station which is now gone so it isn’t a good marker, you might detect a remaining lump of concrete though. One climb has been done here.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="60m" name="Rambo Rhetoric"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="1) 25m A hand and fist crack leads to more featured but steep terrain, the crack system peters out conveniently where a step left accesses a ledge,belay here. 2) 35m A few metres higher, move left again carefully around questionable rock and continue following your nose to the top. Dave James, Ben Rhee, Aug 2002. (though not cleanly-with a single rest on gear at 24m).">1) 25m A hand and fist crack leads to more featured but steep terrain, the crack system peters out conveniently where a step left accesses a ledge,belay here.
2) 35m A few metres higher, move left again carefully around questionable rock and continue following your nose to the top. Dave James, Ben Rhee, Aug 2002. (though not cleanly-with a single rest on gear at 24m).</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Future</text><text
class="text">Some 10-15 minutes further along the track from the Valley (or the pond) is the Future, a chasm which runs to the sea. Descend from the south facing wall at the shortest point possible essentially descending over Snail Trail (~50m). A good view of the south facing (northern) wall may be obtained from atop the southern wall. Directly opposite a cairned boulder three major lines may be viewed. “Nemesis the Angry Cornflake” is the left hand line with a yellow section half way up. Tape recommended.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="60m"
name="Nemesis the Angry Cornflake" new="false" number=""
stars=""
value="Start at a wide broken groove with 2 possible means of climbing around large blocks at several metres height to a wide crack in a shallow right facing corner with a thinner fusing crack to the right. 1) 30m Climb to the large crack then bridge and squirm past side-pulls before moving right into the hand-crack. Continue to a semi-hanging belay at the yellow rock. 2) 30m More jamming to the top. Dave James, Dave Fleming, Feb 2002.">Start at a wide broken groove with 2 possible means of climbing around large blocks at several metres height to a wide crack in a shallow right facing corner with a thinner fusing crack to the right.
1) 30m Climb to the large crack then bridge and squirm past side-pulls before moving right into the hand-crack. Continue to a semi-hanging belay at the yellow rock.
2) 30m More jamming to the top. Dave James, Dave Fleming, Feb 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="55m" name="Snail Trail" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Starting at the twin cracks on the northern wall just below the cave at the chasm head. 1) 30m climb the cracks then continue past blocks and corners to a light coloured triangular sloping ledge backed by an off width. 2) 25m continue directly up to a left facing corner and soon thereafter the scrub. Dave James, Pete Guiver, 2000.">Starting at the twin cracks on the northern wall just below the cave at the chasm head.
1) 30m climb the cracks then continue past blocks and corners to a light coloured triangular sloping ledge backed by an off width.
2) 25m continue directly up to a left facing corner and soon thereafter the scrub. Dave James, Pete Guiver, 2000.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Lookout Crag</text><text class="text"
new="false">Near the end of the walking track a side track leads left (towards Mt Brown) to a cliff facing Cape Raoul proper. In December 1995 we kind of assumed this route and ones on the cape had been climbed in the 70’s.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="Swotvac (retronamed)">A detached pillar should be discernable 5-10 m from the end of the main track. This climb goes up the right side of it (looking up from bottom)?
1) 25m A right-facing corner and crack to a small vegetated ledge on the left.
2) 25m up a few metres and squeeze into the chimney behind the detached pillar and squirm to the top. Mikey Thomas, Dave James and Mark Stuver. Nov 1995.</climb></guide>
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