<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
        access="From Sisters Beach drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km. Park here (GPS SES000).The walk takes about five minutes. Start by following the signposted track for about 100m then bear off to the L. A rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m  before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear R and down to the end of the cliff.  &lt;br/>There is no legal camping at Sisters Beach although several possible sites exist. The camp ground at Boat Harbour is quite good but is about 10 km away."
        acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. Updated by Tony McKenny, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher."
        history="Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular, possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for it's grade in the State. Other contributors included Mick Ling and Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. However, John Fisher scruffed the scene in the the early nineties with a series of steep, hard and interestingly named sports climbs on Corruption Wall."
        intro="The cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing.The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the otherside of Breakneck Point is formed by steep or gently overhanging walls.  &lt;br/>Unfortunately the anchors placed by John Fisher in 1992 on the Corruption Wall became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. Local Andrew Arnold has now fully rebolted the climbs in question, and all the climbs, on both cliffs, now have DBBs. The trad routes are still there of course although a couple have been retro-bolted, a trend that hopefully will not continue. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent, a good diversion from cranking."
        name="Sisters Beach" new="false" rock="15m steep quartzite"
        sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10 min"/><gps new="true"><point
            code="SIS000" description="Sisters Beach - car park"
            easting="381013" height="0" northing="5469569"
        zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
        number="null." src="sisters beach map.png" width=""/><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Carpark Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Nose Route" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous.  Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29/4/81.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Fly Buttress</text><text class="text" new="false"
        value="The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka in the late seventies. The only notable exceptions are R.Starzewski's ascent of Sunshine and S.Edwards's Wuss 'n Boots.">The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Starzewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards's Wuss 'n' Boots (22). All climbs now have DBB, and there is a somewhat dodgy looking abseil chain above Superfly as well.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="true" number="null." src="sisters.png"
        width="800"/><image new="false" noPrint="false"
        src="sister fly wall.jpg" width=""/><climb extra="" grade="16"
        length="" name="Fly Blown" new="false" number="1."
        stars="">Groove L of roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Wuss 'n'  Boots" new="false"
        number="2."
        stars="*">Just to the R, through the roof. Sam Edwards.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="" name="March Fly" new="false"
        number="3."
        stars="*">Starts up Mortein then goes L. Dennis Kearnes 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Mortein" new="false"
        number="4."
        stars="">Groove to roof, then L line. Nic Deka, Neale Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Superfly (the Movie)"
        new="false" number="5."
        stars="***">Follow R line through roof. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Try, Fly or Die" new="false"
        number="6."
        stars="*">Traverse R under roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Sunshine" new="false"
        number="7."
        stars="**">Through roofs to R. Originally led free, now sporting a couple of bolts on the first roof. Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Pigs Can Fly" new="false"
        number="8."
        stars="">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine.Originally with one point of aid by Nick Williams and Tony McKenny, freed by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Fly Paper" new="false"
        number="9."
        stars="">Broken wall R of main cliff. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="7" length="" name="Fly Blows Aunt" new="false"
        number="10."
        stars="">Crack to the R of Uncle. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="" length="7" name="Fly Blows Uncle" new="false"
        number="11."
        stars="">The dirty corner. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Son of Superfly (Maggot)"
        new="false" number="12."
        stars="*">Crack. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Midge" new="false"
        number="13."
        stars="">Short wall to the R and then over small overhang. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Arete" new="false"
        number="14."
        stars="">Arête  and wall R of Midge. Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">The Keyhole</text><text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Bass Strait is on your L (ie walking east).  You can approach Corruption Wall (Dogs Coif etc) by following a path with the rock on your R (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your L and going &quot;up and over&quot; to get to the cave.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole.  It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag.  From there you take a L  (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Battle on New Years Eve"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber). Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold 
</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gap Filler" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by  Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold in 2005. Three bolts to DBB. Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct. 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Bulging Balls" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17/4/82.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Seaside Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. The climbs are on the steep walls either side.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length=" " name="Ling's Wall" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Wall L of gully. Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Bird's Corner" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Corner on west side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Right Hand Corner"
        new="false" number="" stars=""> Mick Ling.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Staszewski's Crack"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress. Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Blow Job" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">On western face of buttress. Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length=" " name="Hand Job" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Next route R. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton 12/4/82.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Easy Ramp Route"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Easy ramp on RH side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12/4/82.</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Corruption Wall</text><text class="text"
        new="false">This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant. User friendly too. Fixed hangers are de rigueur and all  routes have rap anchors at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by &quot;A Butcher's Dog&quot;.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" src="sisters corruption.jpg"
        width=""/><climb extra="" grade="14" length=""
        name="Carnal Knowledge" new="false" number=""
        stars="">From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top. R.Hamilton.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10"
        name="Fourplay">The chimney. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="" name="Roll on Responsibility"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece.Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""
        name="The Purple Veined Junket Pumper" new="false" number=""
        stars="***"
        value="Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.">Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="" name="The Winking Sausage"
        new="false" number="1." stars="***"
        value="Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.">Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="22" length="" name="Rhythm Rude Girl"
        new="false" number="2." stars="***"
        value="Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.">Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="" name="The Rapist" new="false"
        number="3."
        stars="*">Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Happy Hooker" new="false"
        number="4."
        stars="">Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph. Mick Ling.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="19" length="" name="Lazy Lob" new="false"
        number="5." stars="**"
        value="Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.">Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""
        name="The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger" new="false"
        number="6." stars="**"
        value="Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992">Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Nubile Nymph" new="false"
        number="7."
        stars="*">Lay-back the clean-cut crack. N.Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Gornuphere" new="false"
        number="8." stars="">The easy line.</climb><climb extra=""
        grade="14" length="" name="Puberty Rites" new="false"
        number="9."
        stars="**">Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. N.Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="" name="The Slit" new="false"
        number="10."
        stars="">The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the tree. Neal Smith.</climb><climb
        extra="6B" grade="15" length="" name="Condom Power" new="false"
        number="11." stars="**"
        value="Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts. Re-bolted and renamed by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.">Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts and DBB. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Dog Wall</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="27"
        length="" name="The Dog's Coif" new="false" number=""
        stars="***"
        value="Independent, and just right of, the arete. John Fisher, Dec/93.">Independent, and just right of, the arête. John Fisher, Dec/93.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26" length="" name="Dog's Knob" new="false"
        number="" stars="***"
        value="Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. John Fisher, 1992.">Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. Use a nut below the first bolt.John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Butcher's Dog"
        new="false" number="" stars="***"
        value="Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.">The RH line. Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Eastern Cove</text><text class="text"
        new="false">Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk. </text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Metamorphosis" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Hard Cheddar" new="false"
        number="" stars="">Slab then wall to R. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb></guide>