<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
  <header access="" acknowledgement="" history=""
        intro="The short steep gully south of University Buttress is known as Fools Couloir, which from the top of the Pipes is sometimes mistaken for the descent route down Avalanche Couloir. Broken Buttress is a relatively low buttress bordering the south side of Fools Couloir. It culminates in a gendarmed ridge and has a spur running southeast. If a descent of Fools Couloir is made, a tape abseil is required to reach the bottom."
        name="Broken Buttress" new="false"
        rock="Broken dolerite buttresses" sun="Not much sun"
        walk="20 min"></header><image new="false" number="null."
        src="BrokenButtressPrint.jpg"
        width="800">null</image>
  
  <text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Three routes are found near the top of Fools Couloir and are best accessed from the summit. They are located on the gendarmed ridge on the south western side of the couloir. </text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Rick the Redneck"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">The N. E. face of the highest gendarme is split by a fist crack. Follow this for 4m up to a bulge on the R wall. Step R below the bulge and climb the more appealing line 1m to the R. Follow the line to the top finishing L. Pete Steane, A. Adams, Nov. 1992.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Brand New Lies"
        stars="">Found on the next gendarme downhill from Rick the Redneck. Step off the boulder and climb the hand crack on the N. W. face. Follow the crack to the top. Rap off via the chockstone. Pete Steane, A. Adams, Nov. 1992.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Tired Clichés"
        stars="*">This is on the S. W. face of Brand New Lies gendarme. Climb the layback crack and finish up either of the two lines. A. Adams, Pete Steane, Nov. 1992. 
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="45m" name="Crestline" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Follows the nose a metre L of the base of Fools Couloir at a dirty groove that splits at 12m. Up the groove taking the L hand line. The unctuous crux at 15m was originally climbed with a point of aid. Continue to a platform and either traverse off to the R into Fools Couloir or continue up several easy pitches among the spires on the skyline ridge. U. Aurelli, D. Cox, P. Sands, Nov. 1961. FFA: P. Robinson, R. Mansfield, Sep. 1980.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Start Me Up"
        stars="">Press the go button. The lower pillar at the R hand end of Broken Buttress 5m L of Crestline. Climb a finger/hand crack to the horizontal weakness halfway up the pillar. Move insecurely R and follow the arête just L of the Crestline groove, to the top. Abseil off or continue as for Crestline. N. Deka, S. Bunton, Nov. 1987.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Assault Course"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A strenuous excursion that awaits a direct finish. From Start Me Up scramble up the gully 5m L to the base of the imposing orange wall capped by a huge block. Start at a hand crack on the R side of the smooth wall. Climb the hand crack for 10m, step L to gain a finger crack, and follow this until forced R to a large ledge. Abseil off. N. Deka, S. Bunton, Nov. 1987.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="25m" name=" Seamstress"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Lovely climbing on the high orange wall L of Assault Course. The crux is near the top. Mostly on bolts but also requires some natural gear (#0 and #2.5 friend). Sam Edwards, Nov. 1995. </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="48m" name="Spurline" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The southeast spur of Broken Buttress. Seen from the Organ Pipes track it is the notched skyline spur. Start at the top of the first step on the spur. (1) 30m climb to the base of the crack which forms a direct line up the spur. Up this and a short crack on the R to a large platform. (2) 18m Two options: a) Original Route: Up a short chimney, exit R and climb the L hand of two cracks. b) Direct Route: Follow a short jam crack to a large ledge, then climb the R hand crack. Either continue up the ridge, or traverse off R. FA: R. Alsop, M. Douglas, A. Keller, Mar. 1968. Direct finish: R. Mansfield, P. Robinson, Sep. 1980.</climb>
  <text
        class="heading2"
        new="false">Van Diemen Buttress
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">A narrow, sloping buttress well to the south.
  </text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Van Diemen Buttress"
        new="false" number="" stars="">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes, generally following the crest of the buttress. Climb the crest for two pitches until blocked by a short tower which is split by a crack on the R. Either climb this direct, or veer to the L before rejoining the crest via a short cleft. After another pitch along the crest a further gendarme blocks the way. Climb halfway to the top, then either ascend the gendarme direct, or traverse around to the R to a ledge and continue either straight up the wall above or via the crack on the R. Various stages due to J. Elliott, M. Elphick, P. Hewitt, B. Higgins, P. Johnstone, J. Manning, 1959.</climb>

</guide>