<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="THE DRIVE: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4hrs drive from Hobart (281km) followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there from Hobart, drive to Queenstown then follow the main road north (A10) towards Burnie, drive past the Strahan turnoff. At 13km from Queenstown you will get to a right turn onto the B28, signed as 'Lake Plimsol'. Take this and follow it for another 11km until you reach a gravel road on the right. Park just before the gate (be sure not to block the gate). The driving is now over and the walking begins. 
<br/>THE WALK: Walk on the 4WD road past the gate, over bridge and after about 600m turn left onto another road. After another 200m you will see a walking register box which marks the start of the track through the bush. After some mud and scrub the track follows an open and well trodden path for most of the gain up the hill. There is a reliable stream off to the left about half way up the hill just past the large boulder. Sidle the mountain top on button grass till the track gets less obvious. Now it's worth taking your bearings as you need to break from the walking track and head ENE (the 'turnoff point' (see below) is about the same point as when the ridge to the left of the track becomes less steep and the walkers track starts to descend up ahead). Head for a slight saddle, then once through this go past the large block with quartz veins on the right. Next the peak of '1037' (on map) will appear, there is a large white quartz boulder on the left shoulder of the peak (this is near the bivy cave) From the turnoff to the cave should take 20-30 minutes."
acknowledgement="By Kim Robinson, Adam Donoghue"
history="Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including most of Tasmania's willing tried to find a route that would go. The cliff proved a formidible challenge with years and partners passing by before a route was pioneered up the large striking corner of the main face. The route was climbed with Garn Cooper and there was a standoff between the two with regards to the naming - 'Leap of Faith' or 'Wake in Fright' - the latter referring to a broken hammock incident during the night. 'Leap of Faith' won out and set the scene that the cliff was open for business. 
<br/>During this period Adam Donoghue began a long distance relationship with the direct line of 'The Healer'. The crux pitch through the amazing overhanging prow took three shifts of lead and over 15 hours to establish - such is the difficulty of new routing in the Tyndalls. Then in 2005 Adam was back with Gareth Llewellin to establish a route that indicated the potential for quality long and sustained free routes with the climb 'Deeper Water'. There are many lines in waiting, though the effort and commitment required will stop all but the die hard suffer-fest junkies out there. If establishing a new route please respect the effort and vision of the routes already established here by using natural gear where available and bolts only as a last resort."
intro="Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy, it will no doubt be the scene of some more hard and long free and aid routes for the next generation. It's a fantastic area for a walk, some great camping and offers unique climbing in a picturesque setting above a 1km wide lake. The climbs here are all hard earned; with the approach, logistics of getting to the base, and the challenge of getting back up all contributing to a good sense of satisfaction...post ascent.
<br/>The angle is often slabby on the surrounding buttresses, while the main face feels steeper with most terrain around vertical and a few overhanging sections thrown in to add to the exposure. The rock is conglomerate and is very compact due to glaciation in the area. 
<br/>Being located on the West Coast of Tasmania, the Tyndall Range is best enjoyed from November to April during a solid weather forecast. Take winter clothing and good rainwear as the weather can change rapidly - even in summer. Also a map/compass or a GPS are needed to get to the cliff. An important thing to remember here is that this is a very special spot for local bushwalkers so please make an extra effort to minimize your impact. One of the more striking things about being in the area is the unspoilt nature of the surroundings - please keep it this way.
<br/>"
name="Tyndall Range" new="false"
rock="Slabby to past vertical conglomerate up to 300m"
sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="2-3 hours, steep uphill"/><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Camping: There is a spacious and well protected cave with fantastic views for accommodation. It sleeps up to six people and is located under an overhanging rock shelf on the shoulder of peak '1037' (faces east). Take a tarp in case the weather comes in with some wind behind it (though generally it's well protected here). Please don't collect or burn firewood as it's prohibited in this area. There are two tarns for water out the front of the cave. Take care to ensure that you don't wash anything directly in these tarns. Also as the cave doesn't get rain to wash away things so it's well worth walking away from the cave for #1's (it really detracts from the ambiance when you can smell stale pee!). For #2's see the section below - you might be able to climb hard but do you know how to shit in the bush?
How to Make Poo Porridge
The supreme method for minimum impact pooing involves a technique called 'Poo Porridge' or 'PP'. The alpine environment here means that if you dig a shallow grave and use excessive loo paper than chances are it will still be there in 2 years time... not pretty or hygenic for other users. Most climbers technique of shoving a rock on it won't cut it here, it is easy for animals to disturb it and surface water easily carries the parasites and bacteria to other water sources. 'PP' has been proven in studies to breakdown in a fraction of the time by mixing soil nutrients through the poo.
* Step 1: Find a site 100m or more from camp, and downhill from water.
* Step 2: Dig a hole with a nut key or rock 10 to 15cm deep (the top 20cm of soil has the best nutrients for breaking down poo).
* Step 3: Clench your business deal.
* Step 4: Now for the porridge bit, it sounds a bit ugly but this bit is strangely satisfying. Grab a stick and mix dirt well through the poo, the more mixed the better (it will even look less like poo after this simple trick). You can now put the remainder of dirt on top and leave stick poking out to warn others, by the time the stick falls over it's safe terrain.
* Step 5: Ideally carry the paper used out in a ziplock bag, it's light and takes much longer to breakdown than the poo itself. However it you choose to leave the paper, mix it well with the porridge and pee on it if you have a reserve tank (this speeds up the breakdown process).</text><gps
new="true"><point code="TYN000"
description="Tyndall range carpark" easting="380893"
height="509" northing="5356525" zone="55G"/><point
code="TYN010"
description="Track Start (junction with Transmission Line Access Rd)"
easting="381398" height="528" northing="5356599"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN020"
description="High point of track (at start of Plateau)"
easting="383833" height="1103" northing="5356475"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN100"
description="Bivvy Cave beside tarns" easting="383846"
height="1108" northing="5355936" zone="55G"/><point
code="TYN200" description="Raindancer; Top rap anchors"
easting="384138" height="1037" northing="5355850"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN201"
description="Raindancer; Walk down from here (then skirt around to anchors)"
easting="384065" height="1079" northing="5355855"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN050"
description="Cloudstreet; rap anchors" easting="384208"
height="0" northing="5355734" zone="55G"/><point
code="TYN052" description="Big City Life; rap anchors"
easting="384120" height="0" northing="5355879"
zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="tyndallsMap2.png" width=""/><text
class="heading2">Mt Tyndall</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="12"
length="12m" name="Bunny Ears" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Either abseil or scramble to the base, Pleasant climbing up the short wall. FA Claire Hewer, March 2005">Either abseil or scramble to the base, pleasant climbing up the short wall. Claire Hewer, March 2005</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bunny Hop" new="false"
number="2." stars=""
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. FA Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. Kim Robinson, March 2005</climb><image
src="tyndallsmall.jpg" width=""/><text class="heading2"
new="false">Lake Huntley Cliffs</text><image new="false"
noPrint="false" src="huntley main face.jpg" width=""/><text
class="heading3" new="false">Main Face</text><text class="text"
new="false"
value="To do - write up Leap of Faith, Deeper Water, and The Healer.">The main face of Lake Huntley is a very impressive steep cliff up to 300m high. The following routes are on the main face on the longest continuous section of cliff in the centre of the picture above. These routes are quite serious as escape is not easy even with fixed ropes. It's not an option to scramble out as its too bushy and steep, so it's either climb or jumar out.
Access: To access the main face scramble across the cliff top (follow cairns and subtle foot prints). There is a series of prows with vegetation much like a head of hair/wig. The prow just before the highest one is where the rap point is. Once you get to the position in the picture below you are close, the quartz smile marks the top of 'Cloudstreet' about 20m past this a gully where the track dips between two boulders, just up from this is the rap tree. It is a strong obvious bush (this is the anchor for the first rap), there is a purple rope tied around a branch as a marker (please leave it here). Extend the anchor with a 8m piece of rope/sling.
1) First rap is 50m, you should rap past an obvious tree right on the edge (it will be on your L facing the cliff), then next anchor is a 2 bolt chain anchor at a stance on the sloping terrace.
2) Second rap is 40m. Trend slightly R to end up on a ledge on front of buttress (this is the 4th pitch of a climb called 'Surface Tension'. There is another chain.
3) Third rap is 30m. Head R so that you go down R side of pinnacle, clip a bolt as a directional. There is another chain at a stance (this is the 3rd pitch of 'Surface Tension').
4) Fourth rap is rope stretching 60m to the big terrace.
5) Fifth rap is 50m from the edge of terrace follow rock cairns (chain) rap leftwards aiming for a ledge with chain.
6) Sixth rap is 40m to the base.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22 C3" length="200m" name="Leap of Faith"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">The large striking corner on the left edge of the Main Face. The first route completed on the main wall and one of the few continuous lines. The 'C' grade is a clean grade (i.e. no pitons were used).
1) 50m 17. Move R across slab and to the left side of the ledge. Move around the tops of the shrubs and R across to the big ledge. Up the wall a few metres L of the line, then R into it. Continue up crack through bulge to big tree belay.
2) 10m 4. Up short corner to another big ledge at the base of the ramps.
3) 45m 22. Up to the L, then step R to sling bush for protection. Back L to cruxy move in awkward corner, then up clean corner/ramp. At the top, step out L towards big ledge near damp corner to belay.
4) 30m 20. Traverse R using dubious flake, then back into the main line. Pick your way up dodgy rock to belay near little pandanus.
5) 40m 20 C1. Straight up to the roof then step R to belay at the foot of the clean corner 5m below the next roof. Mixed free and aid.
6) 35m C3. The crux aid pitch. With the top ending 7m out from the start... steep! The line is obvious, belay at the top of the corner 4m below a small tree and bushes.
7) 50m 14C1. Climb to the top of the bushes and confront the overhanging off-width. After this make your way through the odd shrub to the foot of the final headwall.
8) 30m easy. Solo up L around to the top and throw over the jug/haul ropes.
Doug Fife and Garn Cooper (with acknowledgment to Peter Steane), 16 Dec 2000.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="305m" name="Deeper Water"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">One of the better days climbing to be had in Australia, and a pretty solid test piece. The climbing follows the line of least resistance and weaves its way in a interesting way up the main face. The grades have been tweaked from the original description in the 'Climb Tasmania Guide'. Suggested Rack: one set wires, cams from blue Alien to #1 Camalot (or similar), 10 draws + 6 longer draws, double ropes handy. Start at the right side of the main wall where the terraces on the R meet the sheer main face and at a small bush.
1) 50m 27. 'The Drowning Pitch'. Follow easy flakes and cracks for 10m until a traverse L across a flake leads you to the business above. The climbing is sustained and technical with a number of hard sections sure to act as a good gate keeper and a worthy test piece. A few wires and small cams are needed in a few places. A memorable and absorbing lead!
2) 20m 21. Head up from belay, then up a crack system to belay with #.75 Camalot and a FH.
3) 45m 24. 'The Crazy Sexy Pitch' Up the left facing flake until it runs out then head R with exciting moves to the the left side of a large flake. Head up and then left with good moves through a bulge and then some slabbing leftwards to the belay. A fun pitch.
4) 45m 26. 'The Balls in a Juicer Pitch'. Thin steep slabby moves are the order here. Head up the technical R trending line on small holds. Once through this it eases off into a cracked corner then L through a bulge (avoiding the chossy wide corner that continues up)
5) 35m 23. Up the obvious corner then out right at the bolt to connect with the next groove. Up this, till a tricky traverse sends you to the belay stance.
6) 15m 24. A short bouldery pitch that breaks left on easier ground after the last bolt (a bit runout).
7) 50m 25. 'The Golden Corner Pitch' A long pitch on a proud section of rock with an exciting finish. This is the pitch that inspired the creation of the route.
8) 30m 20. Head up and R into the corner below the chmney. Up the chimney for a few moves then traverse R around to belay at a small ledge.
9) 20m 20. Up on cobblestones crossing the horizontal break and then up and leftwards to the belay. From here a short 5m traverse will see you back on terra-firma.
Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue April 2005.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="A?" length="300m" name="Office Hours"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Starts up the obvious corner about 30m left of Deeper Water. A predominantly aid route that was established by team 'Project Dare' while training for their record breaking 41 days on the wall in Kyrgystan! No pitch by pitch details as yet.
Kent Jensen and Steve Anderton Summer 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22 A3" length="200m" name="The Healer"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Originally attempted as a solo aid project post a trip to Yosemite - Adam managed to do the first pitch before promptly calling for company... "it's pretty lonely up there on hooks!" The belay above the 'Diamond Prow' is about as exposed as you can get and the aiding is sustained and interesting taking in some good terrain. To get to the start use the standard rap route for the main face to get to the big terrace 200m down, head through the bush to the wall, a single BR marks the start of the climb. Suggested Rack: (standard big wall rack = plenty of everything including a big cam or 2 for first pitch (old green 5 camalot or #6 friend), also take a few pitons and heads + 10 bolt plates.
1) 25m 20A3. Aid left to R facing wide crack. Squirm up this passing a BR on the way, then up face on hooks and bolts to DBB.
2) 35m A2+. Tension traverse L on quartz dyke into the main line. Up this to the belay.
3) 30m A2+. Tricky aiding continues up the line to the DBB.
4) 30m 20A2+. From belay, follow line with a few free moves thrown in where the crack shuts down. Belay at DBB below steep prow.
5) 30m A3. 'The Diamond Prow' It took a 15 hours of leading to establish this pitch, though repeats should do it in a fraction of the time! Very steep 45 degree overhang through an offset corner, DBB on the exposed perch over the lip.
6) 40m 22. All free pitch past some thin cracks before knobs and a few bolts (no hangers) lead left aroundbase of pillar to the L facing corner. Up this corner on gear to belay over the edge oin bushes. It is also possible to finish up the last pitch of Deeper Water by heading more directly up from the horizontal break.
Adam Donoghue, then Adam & Alex McConnell, then Adam & Scott Camps, then Adam & Scott & Gareth Llewellin... phew. April 2002</climb><climb
extra="" grade="hard" length=""
name="Garry & Jake's Project" new="false" number=""
stars="">Project - Starts on buttress just to R of main face from the big terrace. Crosses Surface Tension at 3rd belay and goes up R arete of rap buttress.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="115m" name="Surface Tension"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">The top three pitches are finished and provide a good outing with a great view of the main face. The first two pitches below this are a project for Adam, and bloody hard so it could take a while. This route was originally engineered as an easier alternative 'escape route' from the main wall... but it has ended up a tad harder than expected! Rap in down the main rap line to the end of the 30m rap (3 raps).
1) 40m Project - from terrace to ledge.
2) 35m Project - from ledge to belay stance.
3) 30m 25. Steep climbing on good features and edges in a great position alongside the main face make this a good pitch. Bolts plus a one set of cams in the #0.5 friend to #2 friend range. Chain belay on big ledge.
4) 40m 24. A sustained pitch that is slabby and thin in places. From belay step left carefully (above ledge) to natural gear then up line and corner above. Take wires and cams to #2.5 friend. Belay at chain. Scramble with rope to higher position up and right (just to R of overhangs on clean vertical wall) One bolt plus gear for belay.
5) 45m 24. A sustained steep slab pitch that is harder than it looks, quite technical and devious.
Adam Donoghue and Gareth Llewellin March 2008</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="35m" name="Cloudstreet" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">A well protected and enjoyable steep slab in close proximity to the main wall but with a friendly and less exposed feel. 
Rack: 12 draws
Rap in from the bolts 5m above the quartz smile (the quartz smile is clearly visible when going across the cliff top track). Do a super careful scramble to reach these. There is a big grassy ledge at base with a big tree to belay.
Delicate footwork and thoughtful climbing are the order here which culminates in a good series of steep moves on the blunt arete to finish.
Gareth Llewellin and Adam Donoghue March 2008</climb><text
class="text"
new="false">The following routes are on buttresses to the right of the main face. These climbs offer a good introduction to climbing in the region.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false">Rain Dancer Buttress</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="80m" name="Rain Dancer" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it. Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! FA. Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it. 
Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Big City Life Buttress</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false"
src="Tyndalls_BigCity_Topo_20091101.png" width="500"/><climb
extra="" grade="26 (23A0)" length="135m" name="Big City Life"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped.
Access: As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m a fair way left (facing out) to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush (not the DBB for the grade 26 version of pitch four) continue with three more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around un-roped on.
Suggested Gear: Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from 0.3 to #2 Camalot + another #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.
1) 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted
2) 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating over-vertical headwall (via the left-leaning, right-facing shallow corner). Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab (this slab is a very run-out way to finish; it is possible to chicken-out leftwards on easier ground past another bolt). Belay on comfy ledge.
3) 30m 19. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab (and another bolt) to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.
4) 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.
5) 15m 13. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.
Simon Young and John Fisher, 22 Jan 2008 .
Urban Sprawl Variants:
2b) 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.
4b) 35m 19. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left (and a little downward) across slab into BCL (this dog-leg means double ropes are nice). The first ascent team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not recommended. J
John Fisher (2b) and Simon Young (4b), Jan 2008.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false">Feral Prow</text><climb extra=""
grade="21" length="" name="Bleeding Ferals Prow" new="false"
number="" stars="">Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us!
Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff).
Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted.
Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie Jan 2006.</climb></guide>
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