< Rockaway and Amphitheatre | Flange Buttress >
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<guide pagesize="500">
<text
class="heading1">The Columns
</text>
<text
class="text">The impressive cirque of columns up to 110m high that flanks the cirque immediately L of Amphitheatre Ledge. Routes here are steeper, more serious and longer than those on Northern Buttress. The Shipwreck provides a good vantage point for learning the geography of this section of the cliff. Five distinct columns aid route finding. Cossack Column is the first of these.
</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="the columns access.png"
width="">null</image>
<text
class="heading2">Cossack Column
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number="null." src="AmphitheatreCossackColumnPrint.jpg"
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<text
class="text">Cossack Column is the only prominent column at the head of the cirque. It is a twin column, closely joined and about 65m high. Two large wedge shaped blocks cap the columns. To access from the base of the cliff, walk up the steep grassy slope above the Shipwreck past the start of Exit Entry to the base of the routes.
</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: To access or descend from the top of the Pipes there is a 50m abseil from the Cossack Column rap station at the top of Sky Rocket. (GPS MTW120) It can be difficult to locate from the top of the Pipes as the rap station is situated on a ledge 6m down from the top of Cossack Column on the north (L) side. Alternatively use the Amphitheatre rap station which is marked by a cairn and a blue dot, new 2007. A 50m abseil takes you to the base of the columns. If you'd rather not abseil it is possible to downclimb Exit Entry. There are two carrots (no hangers or nuts) at the top of Early Bird/Carrot Top (GPS MTW160) which can be used to access those two climbs, or use your own tape abseil if you think it might be safer. </text><climb
extra="" grade="21 " length="30m" name="Lunatic Eclipse "
new="false" number=""
stars="">The strenuous crack left of Richard Scraper reached by abseiling to a ledge. The result of a mammoth cleaning effort but unfortunately the lower crack has now re-grown its vegetation (dwarf woody Coprosma, if you are a botanist!). G. Aimer, Mar. 1991. </climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="24" length="20m" name="The Early Bird "
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Access from above. Rap in from the Carrot Top rap station, to reach a narrow ledge equipped with DBB (fixed hangers), R of the Sword. Climb the shallow L facing corner to the R of the belay. Well protected by small to medium cams and wires. Reputably classic, but not many have tried it due to Al's alleged fondness for sandbagging. A. Williams Oct. 2004.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="A3" length="20m" name="Carrot Top" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">L of TEB, best accessed from above by abseiling from the double carrots (no hangers) at the top down to the DBB. Aid directly out of the belay via the middle crack (knife blades and small cams) then a loose flake leads to a carrot. Bat hook to a rubbly ledge then aid R through a crack. Sounds delightful. G. Phillips, S. Harper, Apr. 1997.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14 " length="60m" name="The Sword " new="false"
number=""
stars="*">A direct line, which has become vegetated in the lower half over the years. Start at the head of the Amphitheatre 3m right of The Shield. (1) 23m Climb straight up the corners to a ledge. (2) 28m Up a corner, battle past 4m of draping vegetation (Mountain Coprosma), then a pleasant chimney up to a large ledge. (3) 9m Up the crack above to the top. J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar. 1968. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="51m" name="The Shield" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">A classic route by the master himself. Starts at the narrow vee-chimney between Lost Arrow and The Sword. (1) 21m. Climb the chimney and obvious cracks to belay in the niche. (2) 30m (Crux). Up the overhanging wide crack (a couple of #4/#5 Camalots or equivalent are handy) and follow the great shield to a ledge. Up the corner above to the top. J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar. 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="51m" name="Shield Variant"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A thinner version of pitch two of The Shield. (1) climb the first pitch of the Shield. (2) Traverse L to the small niche and climb the finger crack to where it rejoins The Shield. S. Parsons, J. Kennedy, Dec. 1985.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21 " length="20m" name="Nucleon" new="false"
number=""
stars="">An alternative to pitch 1 of the Shield. Start at the twin finger crack 4m L of the Shield. Up a finger crack and a flake to a groove. Climb the groove to a problematic exit onto the top of the pillar. Belay in the niche as for the Shield. D. Gray, D. Rosen, Feb. 1992. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="60m" name="Lost Arrow" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A direct line involving strenuous climbing. Start at the base of the line 2m R of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steep ground to the base of the route. (1) 12m. Straight up the corner to a small stance. (2) 35m. Up the crack to a small ledge. Climb the off-width crack over a small overhang (crux) to a narrow chimney. (3) 13m. Ascend easily to the top. J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar. 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="12" length="63m" name="Battle-Axe Crack"
stars="">Just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney. (1) 21m. Up the chimney on the R to belay on a chockstone. (2) 30m. Continue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge. (3) 12m. Scramble up to the top. M. Tillema, G. Batten, Mar. 1971.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="75m" name="Voluntary Vomit"
stars="">Follows the crack and groove lines immediately L of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steeply as for Battle-Axe Crack. (1) 25m. Up the crack on the L. (2) 25m. Continue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse into Battle-Axe Crack. (3) 25m. Finish up Battle-Axe Crack. I. Lewis, A. Hogarth, Feb. 1974.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" name="Potem Tole" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">The steep corner at the top is fabulous. Scramble up to the corner just R of Cossack Column or rap in from the top via the Sky Rocket rap station. Climb the crack for 8m (as for Voluntary Vomit), then step L onto the face and move up the parallel line to the grassy ledge at the base of a corner. Negotiate an awkward move in the corner, jam through the bulge and layback the corner above to a ledge on the L. Step L, finishing just R of Skyrocket. Belay at the rap station. K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan. 1974. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" name=" In Flagrante Delicto"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">An amazing line of sustained quality and difficulty up the RH arête of Cossack Column. Originally done in two pitches, best done as one. Although no trad gear is needed, wires can be placed on the first pitch and near the top of the second pitch. Either scramble up to the base or abseil in from the top via the U-bolt rap station. Follow the line of U-bolts up the arête between Sky Rocket and Potem Tole. Belay at rap station. R. Parkyn, Dec. 1993.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" name="Sky Rocket" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Trad climbing on the Pipes is epitomised by this signature route. The climbing is outstanding and the position preposterous. Start as for Tartarus before moving R to climb the LH arête and front face of the column. (1) 15m. Climb the Tartarus line to a belay in a vee-slot. (2) 40m. Traverse R from belay across the face (1m above a small ledge) to the arête. Step around the arête, and up the thin crack line. (1st crux). Climb shallow corners of increasing difficulty to a ledge (some of the flakes to this point are a bit suspect). Layback over bulge to twin finger cracks. Continue thoughtfully to a narrow ledge (2nd crux) and then up the twin hand cracks before exiting via the RH crack to the rap station. S. Parsons et al, 1982. Direct start: (21) climb directly up to the crack. M. Colyvan, R. Clarke, 1984. Direct finish: (25) climb directly over the summit block. P. Robbins, 1990.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="21" length="60m" name="Tartarus" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Quintessential climbing for aspiring crack masters. The steep and strenuous crack line up the LH face of Cossack Column. Scramble up to the base of the buttress or rap in as for Sky Rocket. (1) 40m. Climb a short corner on the L to a small bush and step R into the base of the crack line. Continue up the line to a vague stance above a bulge split by a hand crack. (2) 20m. Follow the V-shaped groove that slants up to the L and around the corner and continue up easier ground to the top. Memorable for being the first climb on the Pipes graded 20 and on the cusp of changing ethics. Kim had brought his NSW ethics on holiday with him, and had persuaded Lew to climb without the customary (in Tasmania at the time) small selection of pitons for protection. There must have been a crisis of confidence mid way up the climb, because a cry rang out (from Lew, to Mendelt Tillema, who was somewhere at the top of the Amphitheatre/Sentinel Ridge area) - "Hey, Mendelt, where's ya pegs?". These were duly lowered, and the climb proceeded. I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan. 1974.</climb>
<text
class="text">Scramble L from Tartarus on ledges to access the following six routes:
</text>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" name="A Step Back" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The first line L of Tartarus. From the foot of Tartarus, climb up L to a sloping grassy ledge at the base of the line. (1) 40m. Climb the long intimidating crack. The crux is about half way where the crack widens above an ancient white crusty nut and biner (remnants of a 1960's attempt). Belay at the base of some large blocks. (2) 15m. Continue with care past the blocks. At the top move straight up past the bush or make an awkward traverse R into the hole at the top of Tartarus which leads through to the Cossack Column rap station. P. Robinson, B. Terry, May 2002.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="65m" name="The Word Was Made Flesh"
stars="">The second crack L of Tartarus. Very sustained. (1) 45m. Awkward jamming up the V-groove to a semi hanging belay. (2) 20m. Continue more easily to the top. N. Duhig, M. Edwards, 1988.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Days of Future Past"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This steep corner L of The Word Was Made Flesh has been top roped. Not recommended unless one is a true green climber. Festooned with one or two drapes of tea tree and choked with tussock grass in places. The overhang is interesting. Top Roped: P. Robinson, Mar. 2002.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="Hakea" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">L of Days of Future Past is a sustained, steep, classic crack of hand and finger width with some face climbing at the start. Climb the wall to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams to an alcove at half height. Higher pull round a huge and spectacular overhanging flake. Belay on the ledge at the base of the hakea tree barring the exit. Abseil off here or prussic 4-5m via fixed abseil rope. P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb. 2002. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name=" Sassanach" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The line immediately L of Hakea, following a steep crack. A small sassafras bush high up provides a welcome rest. P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Mar. 2002.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="65m" name="Bad Attitude" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Knuckle down for some serious off-width action. Takes the line between Sassenach and Where Eagles Dare Not. Approach from the ledges L of Tartarus. (1) 35m. Follow the R facing corner/hand crack to a stance just below a small roof on the L hand wall. (2) 30m (crux). Continue up the widening crack to the roof. Turn this on the R and continue to the top (Take a large cam or ample tape to sling chockstones). A. Adams, G. Cooper, 1986.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Where Eagles Dare Not"
new="false" number=""
stars="">R of Hiawatha, a conspicuous forest of sassafras (a distinctive light-green bush) fills the top 10m of a crack. (1) 10m. Up a short chimney, through a hole to a large ledge. (2) 25m. Follow a dirty chimney to an off-width crack (crux). Continue to a belay on top of loose blocks. (3) 23m. Climb the crack to an exposed stance on the R. (4) 16m. Move up to the bushes, and either peg L along a horizontal break to a ledge or rap off to avoid the aid section. (5) 26m. Scramble to the top. I Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan. 1974.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="52m" name="Killer Canary"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A brilliant and unlikely line up the arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not. (1) 15m 18. Climb pitch 1 of Where Eagles Dare Not to belay at first obvious ledge. (2) 25m 22. Move L to the arête and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête to belay on a small exposed ledge. (3) 12m 21. Step down and L onto the face and climb face and cracks to the top. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Double Column
</text>
<text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">L of Cossack Column is a wide curving stretch of wall. This terminates in a forward standing double column about 100m high and split by a conspicuous crack/chimney line. This is the line taken by Double Column Central. The first five routes start in a recess immediately R of Double Column, and a substantial ledge extends across the recess beneath the start of these routes. A 15m chimney and a scramble up steep grass provides access to the ledge. All five routes start here.
</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: Either via the Cossack Column rap station or the Amphitheatre rap station which is marked by a cairn and a blue dot, new 2007. A 50m abseil takes you to the base of the columns for both rap stations. Alternatively downclimb Exit Entry.</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="70m" name="Moments Of Inertia"
stars="*">The second pitch is pleasant. This route is the corner line on the far RH side of the ledge (1) 25m 18. Climb the wide crack in the corner to a large vegetated ledge. (2) 45m 16. From the middle of the ledge climb the hand crack through the break and follow the line directly to the top, moving L to the arête at one point to avoid a fused dirty corner. G. Cooper, A. Adams, Jan. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="80m" name="Hiawatha" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">An entertaining direct line. This route located at the RH side of the ledge and starts at the base of the crack/chimney L of Moments of Inertia. (1) 36m. Straight up to a small ledge on the R. Continue up the crack to a ledge. (2) 44m. Continue on past a block at 10m, up the side of a huge flake to a stance on top of it. Up the crack directly above past loose blocks to the top. J. Ewbank, D. Groom, 1969.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="85m" name="Play Spot the Poss"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The most enjoyable pile of choss you're ever likely to climb. The direct line in the middle of the ledge between Hiawatha and The Cordoban. (1) 45m. Climb the crack to below the roof capping the vee-chimney. Continue up the hand cracks on the L which become dirty to a belay at the foot of the leaning column. (2) 40m. Continue up the chimney and corners on the R. G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb. 1984.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="108m" name="The Cordoban"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">An adventurous day out that has sandbag potential. Best done when dry, it takes line behind RH column of Double Column. Start at foot of corner at LH end of recess ledge. (1) 24m. Up the black lichen-laden corner through a constriction to belay on ledge. (2) 20m (crux). Follow RH crack until below loose swinging door of rock (attempts to dislodge it have failed to date). Switch to LH crack and climb up to pea-pod stance. Revert to RH line and climb wide crack to ledge 6m above (a #4 camalot feels reassuring). (3) 10m. Chimney up narrow crack, step onto R wall at 7m and belay on ledge above and to R. (4) 18m. Continue up main chimney and climb up leaning column. From top, exit R through back of large flake onto large belay ledge. (5) 21m. From RH end of ledge, climb corner awkwardly past bush and up through scrub to top. J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb. 1967.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="57m" name="Split Decision"
stars="*">The steep crack on the LH wall of the recess just L of The Cordoban. (1) 12m 21. Climb the steep flared finger crack on the L face for 10m, trending L to a belay on the arête. (2) 45m 17. Follow the widening corner crack to the top which starts with fingers and ends as a walk. N. Deka, G. Cooper, Jan. 1989.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="77m" name="Double Column Central"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">L of the recess on the Double Column proper. Famously on-sight soloed in the rain by Henry Barber in the 70s, it takes the conspicuous crack/chimney line up the centre of Double Column. Reached by a scramble from the R. (1) 23m. Climb the chimney to a stance in a small cave. (2) 23m. Continue with difficulty straight up the groove through a bulge. Follow the chimney to another cave stance. (3) 16m. Climb the roof split by two cracks immediately above the stance. Either follow the off-width crack, or the corner on the R, to the base of a tight chimney. Squeeze through to a stance. (4) 15m. Straight up the final chimney or escape through the back of the column. M. Douglas, T. Terry, Apr. 1967. FFA: B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Oct. 1970.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="105m" name="Coleslaw"
stars="">Not the best diet for good climbing. (1) 27m. As for Battlements (Original Route). Belay on the Lower Battlement. (2) 27m. Straight up to a large ledge. (3) 30m. Up on the R for 3m and traverse L onto a small buttress in middle of the gully. Where the buttress ends continue up the wall (crux). Step R into a crack and after 3m move R into a corner. (4) 21m. Continue up until behind Double Column then up the easy crack to the top. J. Moore, V. Kennedy, Nov. 1967. FFA: Phil Steane, N. Ward, Apr. 1983.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Split Column and Battlements Column
</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="ColumnsCentralPrint.jpg"
width="700">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Split Column is immediately L of Double Column and separated from it by a shallow gully. The top 25m of Split Column looks as if it has been split with an axe and at the very top are two ear-shaped rocks. If you look carefully, you can see a sinuous hand-crack snaking its way up the nose of the column into an ever-widening crack below the top. This is the line taken by pitch three of Split Column. L again is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks. This is Battlement Column and when viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff.</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: A rap station at the top of Ultrahard (35m - GPS MTW140) reaches the ledge at the start of the final pitch of Split Column and the starts of Holiday in Cambodia, Sandy Bay Road and Ultrahard. Another rap station at the top of Daedalus (50m- GPS MTW150) is used to access Icarus and requires a further abseil (40m) from a tree to the bottom. A third rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column descends to the Middle Battlement. Ignore, as it is access for a project (2007).
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="118m" name="Battlements" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Described first as it traverses across other climbs in the area. (1) 35m. Up central cleft of Double Column to long scrubby ledge. From LH edge, climb wide crack to large platform known as the Lower Battlement. Descend 4m down from LH edge of platform. (2) 40m. Mad Dog Chimney. Follow easy line diagonally through the mulga upwards trending L. An obvious interior line leads to an airy balcony to L, the Middle Battlement. (3) 43m. Layback corner crack and continue up past an old peg (still there in 2007) to ledge on rear face of final tower. (An alternative is to traverse R half way up layback and up, harder). Continue straight up the difficult crack, past another old peg (2007), to notch and then finish by grotty chimney. Better but harder is to climb clean-cut crack to the R above the notch, traversing back L at the top. M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Apr. 1962.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Battlements Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Good value and worthy of inclusion separately. Climb the corner crack on the R directly below Split Column to Lower Battlements platform. Abseil off or finish up Battlements. First ascent: Unknown
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="110m" name="Midnight Cabbage"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Interesting and varied climbing, if a little jungle-like now, up the RH side of Split Column. Start directly below Split Column at the crack on the R. (1) 40m. Straight up the crack and reverse the down climb section on Battlements to belay on the Lower Battlement. (2) 30m. (a) Move R for two metres and follow an obvious line over a bulge to a large ledge, as for Coleslaw. (b) Direct 17. Follow the jam crack for about 5m then step R and climb a short wall. Move up to the base of the huge chimney behind Split Column. (3) 40m. Ascend the chimney to the top. M. Tillema, D. Klees, 1972. (2b) P. Treby, T. Brooks, Jan. 1974.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Face What You Fear"
stars="**">To the R of Split Column on the RH face of the column. Rap into the gulch. Traverse out of the chimney to the thin crack. Tight hands lead past the crux to easier going near the top. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name=" Soliton" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Position, position, position. High quality climbing up the exposed line below and R of the last pitch of Split Column. Abseil down the NW side of Split Column to belay in a R facing corner not far above the large bushy ledge 50m from the top. Step L onto the face and climb through balancy moves with spaced gear to the thin crack. Follow the crack (crux) and then easier arête to the ledge of Split Column. H. Jackson, Mar. 1998.
</climb>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">To access the top pitches of routes between Split Column and Sandy Bay Rd, use the rap station at the top of Ultrahard (35m) which is located on top of the column in a vee-groove on the RH side.</text>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="19" length="120m" name="Split Column"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Tantalising. This route is usually done simply to experience the final pitch. Either start 2m R of Battlements Direct, at a short corner, or rap in from the Ultrahard rap station (35m) for the final 3-star pitch. (1) 40m. Good value, maybe worth a star. Up the corner, then continue up the face to a flared hand and finger crack in a short corner, which is followed to a ledge. (2) 30m. Climb the very scrubby and tottering gully on the L to a ledge below the main corner on the LH side of the column. A pitch best avoided really.(3) 40m. The pitch you all want to lead. Up the corner as per Holiday in Cambodia for 6m to a thin traverse line leading R. Traverse for 3m then follow the sinuous hand crack up the nose to a niche. Follow the widening line past the twist to the top. G. Child, K. Carrigan, Feb. 1978.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Ultrasound" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">Thin and thought provoking. The line found L of Split Column's final pitch. Reached by abseil from the top rap anchors (20m). Belay in the niche halfway up pitch 3 of Split Column. Step L around the corner and follow the thin crack to the top. S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="30m" name="Ultrahard" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The direct start to Ultrasound and one of the hardest climbs on The Pipes. Access is from the Ultrahard rap station (35m). Climb up Holiday in Cambodia for 2m, reach right and clip the first bolt. Move right into the line and finish up Ultrasound where a trad rack including very small to medium cams and wires is required. 4 bolts, S. Parsons, Nov. 2006.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="21" length="35m" name="Holiday in Cambodia"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Sustained, energetic and some say hard for its grade. This corner shares the first 8m of Split Column's final pitch. Abseil from the Ultrahard rap station (35m), to the scrubby ledge at the base of the corner. Start up the corner. Instead of traversing R as for Split Column, continue straight up the flared finger and hand crack in the corner past two small roofs (crux). Follow the good hand crack more easily to the top. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="18" length="35m" name="Sandy Bay Road"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Trad heaven, a fabulous pitch. Originally accessed via what is now Battlements Direct, it is now rapped into via Ultrahard. Climb the obvious crack in L wall of Holiday in Cambodia corner. Take some large gear (#4 Camalot) to protect initial 8m of crack. L.J. Wood, M. Tillema, A. Bush, Dec. 1976.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="104m" name="Incision"
stars="">A good landmark. This is the prominent wide chimney on the RH side of the Battlements Column, which closes down after 15m into a crack. (1) 24m. Up the chimney, following the crack through the roof until it widens again. Move up and L around the arête to belay on a ledge on Bismarck. (2) 30m. Move back R into the line and pass the roof by climbing the L arête. Continue straight up to join Battlements above Mad Dog Chimney. (3) 50m. As for Battlements. (1) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb. 1977. (2) P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1979.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="100m" name="Bismark" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Once an old aid route, this is the impressive line up the middle of Battlements Column. (1) 20m 24. Climb crack at base of Battlements Column to ledge at five metres. Step past loose blocks and climb shallow corner and thin cracks above (crux) to next ledge. An easier alternative is to climb pitch one of Incision. (2) 40m 21. Climb the front of column to it's top. (3) 40m 14. Drop off back of column and climb straight to top of cliff. Rap station as for Daedelus. D. Groom, J. Moore, Jan. 1968. FFA: (2 and 3) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb. 1977. (1) K. Carrigan, P. Bigg, 1982.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Project" new="false" number=""
stars="">Project 2007. A rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column descends to the Middle Battlement (top of Pitch 2 of Battlements - 30m). Takes arête and wall to the R of pitch 3 of Icarus.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="20" length="114m" name="Icarus" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">You can't train for this sucker in the gym. This sensational line is on the LH face of Battlements Column, below the obvious monolithic boulder wedged across the notch between the pillar and main wall. The first pitch is usually avoided by abseiling from the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus (50m) to a ledge then scrambling down a couple of metres to the start of pitch 2 of Icarus. (1) 36m. Climb directly to the ledge at the start of the crack. (2) 30m. (Ignore the crack-line with a peg on the L, it goes nowhere. It is usually festooned with 'tat' left behind by folk trying to avoid climbing the chimney!) Climb the wide crack and awkwardly enter the bottomless chimney (crux). Continue up the tight chimney, exiting through a bulge and jam the hand crack to a small belay ledge on the R. (3) 48m. Climb the crack and bulges in behind the huge pillar to the notch. Continue climbing up behind the pillar to the top. Rap station as for Daedelus. (3 bongs were used on the first ascent on pitch 2, 1 for a rest , and 3 pegs to protect pitch 3) C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank, Feb. 1968. FFA: H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr. 1975
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="15" length="109m" name="Claret Corner"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The route up the corner full of immense jammed chocks immediately L of the Upper Battlement Column. Start at base, as for Icarus. (1) 40m. Climb initial crack and continue up to large ledge at foot of main corner. (2) 34m. Climb the corner to recessed stance. (3) 35m. (a) 14. Continue up chimney. Some loose rock near top. (b) 16. From the recessed stance step L and climb thin crack until a move can be made back R onto the face L of chimney. Bridge and face climb to top, finishing over bulge. Avoids slippery and difficult chimney. Rap station as for Daedelus. D. Groom, A. Keller, J. Moore, Dec. 1967. (3b) T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Mar. 2002.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="23" length="25m" name="Cruel But Fair"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Access from above using the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus to abseil down to another two 25m down the wall. Follow the finger crack back up to the top. Good natural pro all the way in a range of sizes. R. Parkyn, Feb/98.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" name="Daedalus" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Get in shape for Yosemite. The classic crack on the L wall of Claret Corner. Rap in from the top via the U-bolt rap anchors (50m) to the large ledge at the base. (1) 35m. Enter the crack a couple of metres below the bottom L corner of the ledge. Climb easily for about 13m to a pea-pod scoop. Climb the steep off-width crack for 6m, passing a very old bolt (not recommended for use, originally placed by Ewbank during an early 1960's attempt), then move onto the L wall for another 6m before returning to the crack. (2) 20m. Continue up the crack to the top. H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr. 1975.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="26" length="55m" name="Once in a Lifetime"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Nick’s better half was doubtful about his ability to send this baby after three years of continual spanking! Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing left across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête left of Daedalus in one monster pitch via 18 bolts. Technical moves with good rests. Nick Hancock, Jan. 2008.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Cairn Column
</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="ColumnsFlangePrint.jpg"
width="700">null</image>
<text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Cairn Column is the most prominent column on the LH end of the Columns. It stands on a ramp of broken rock that forms the base of the southern columns. A pile of rocks on the summit of this column resembles a cairn. At the far LH end, the Columns join Flange Buttress. The junction occurs at a prominent R-facing corner (Brown Madonna) where the rock becomes steeper and reddish in colour. The sketch above depicts a wider angled view of the cliff from Double Column to Flange Buttress. </text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: For routes between F-Sharp and Piccolo, traverse R at the top to access Cossack Column rap station (50m) or use rap station down Daedelus (50m and 40m). Serendipity, Tower of Power and Best Route in the Gorge each have their own rap stations. For Great Bitch and Pink Car, traverse L to the Brown Madonna rap anchors (50m).
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="99m" name="F-Sharp" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Difficulties are confined to a small section at the end of pitch 2, but loose and mossy rock makes the route a serious undertaking. Start almost directly below Daedalus at a small embayment in the base of the cliff, below a double crack line that cuts the upper part of the cliff. (1) 34m. Follow one of two lines from the top of a small gully to a stance adjacent to a bush. (2) 30m. Climb the fine corner crack, over a bulge split by two cracks (crux), to a large stance. (3) 35m. Up the crack and off-width line above to the top. J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar. 1968. FFA: D. Bowman, L. Wood, Dec. 1977.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="20" length="80m" name="Firebrand" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Recently upgraded from 17 to restore some battered egos. The conspicuous black, dirty, sometimes wet, chimney (sounds a cracker doesn't it!) on RH side of Cairn Column. Scramble for a couple of rope-lengths through the mulga to the foot of the chimney. (1) 33m. Straight up corner to belay above numerous dead bushes. (2) 27m. Up narrow chimney to belay above a large pile of chockstones. (3) 20m. Bridge and jam up, then L through roofs, to finish back R (crux). Pitches 1 & 2 and to within 10m of the top - J.Moore, P.Jackson, R.Williams, March 1967. Pitch 3 done with aid by C. Dewhirst, J. Moore, Feb. 1968. FFA: M. Steane, J. Burgess, Apr. 1976.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="108m" name="Cymbal" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">A unique subterranean experience with a swag of variants. (1) 36m. Easy scrambling over loose rock and scrub to the base of two chimneys immediately L of Cairn Column. (2) 42m. (a) Probably the better of the two choices. Climb the L hand chimney then continue until a large platform is reached on the L. (b) Deep Chimney. Takes the RH line up crack that opens out into a deep chimney with a prominent chockstone. Near the top either traverse L and up to the large platform as in (a) or continue up to a ledge on the R to access the Vice. (3) 30m. (a) Original route, (15) Drop off the L hand edge of the platform onto a grass ledge and belay in the corner. Climb up past a sassafras bush and up the RH corner exiting behind a huge chockstone in the roof. Either climb the chockstone crack above or make an exposed traverse L into a chimney and surmount the chockstones. (b) Dick the Despot, (20). The obvious crack at 7m is the crux for which a #4 Camalot is very useful. Continue up the widening crack (a tube is handy) and exit via the R face. (c) Jungle Jim, 18. The twin cracks 3m R of Dick the Despot. Stem and chimney up past the vegetation until near the top. Revert to jamming the RH line up and over the summit bush. (d) The Vice, 16. From the ledge above and R of Deep Chimney, finish up a corner with twin cracks. D. McKelvey, T. Terry, Jan. 1966. Deep Chimney, M. Douglas, J. Morley, Jan. 1966. Dick the Despot, A. Adams, N. Deka, May 1991. Jungle Jim, N. Deka, A. Adams, May 1991. The Vice, J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar. 1968.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="126m" name="Whodunnit" new="false"
number=""
stars="">This route may have been climbed before as there is an old peg on the third pitch. Start at the obvious crack line immediately L of Cymbal pitch 2 (1) 36m. As for Cymbal pitch 1. Easy climbing, bushy. (2)30m Start up a short layback and step R into the crack. Up this until a small ledge is gained in a widening of the crack line. (3) 30m Launch up the off width above and continue through a small roof (peg) then slightly R to finish on the Cymbal Original Finish belay ledge. (4) 30m Finish as for Cymbal pitch 3a. N. Deka, T. McKenny, Feb. 1990.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="72m" name="Pooh Corner" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Worth doing for pitch 1. Scramble 40m (as for pitch 1 of Cymbal) to initial chimney in the R of a small square amphitheatre, 2m R of Firebird. (1) 42m. Climb up via an awkward chockstone crux to a sloping grassy stance among bushes. (2) 30m. Continue up, passing a bush, and from the grassy ledge, continue up chimney on L to top (Cymbal takes the R corner - probably the best way to go to avoid the vegetation). J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar. 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="67m" name="Firebird" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A direct line marred somewhat by loose rock and vegetation in places. Start about 15m L of Cymbal. Scramble 35m to a scrubby terrace beneath two chimneys. (1) 25m. Up the L hand chimney past loose rocks at 15m to a claustrophobic stance in the chimney. (2) 21m. Continue up the heavily vegetated chimney and corner to a good stance below the final corner. (3) 21m. Crux. Straight up corner above to a ledge, then up the nasty scrubby corner above. May be a tad under graded and now more vegetated. J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar. 1968.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="40m" name="Serendipity" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">A clean corner line found halfway up the cliff. Either scramble and climb up to the base of Piccolo Wall, L of Firebird, and climb the 15m wall to the base of twin corner cracks. Alternatively rap in from the top (60m). 30m south of Cairn Column scramble down and L to a ledge at the end of the Columns. Leaving a fixed line, rap 20m to a ledge with two bolts and then a further 40m rap to start the climb. The climb follows the corner with a thin crack on the L to the ledge 20m from the top of the Pipes. One third of the way up where the crack thins, there are two alternatives (a) Go straight up. (b) Traverse L onto the arête, up 3m then back R into the corner. Continue up the LHS of the corner to a small tree. Move past the tree to reach a layback crack. At the top move R. onto the slab and scramble L to the bolts. Abseil off or jumar 20m out. (The line above has been climbed at 20 but is deemed suitable only for masochists.) P. Robinson, C. Hewer & K. Robinson, Dec. 2005.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="90m" name="Piccolo" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The notoriously tight chimney behind the Tower of Piccolo (the small pillar above and R of the Tower of Power at the R end of Flange Buttress). Start well to the R of the main climb below a scrubby terrace. (1) 40m. Climb easily to the terrace that leads L to the start of the Firebird and Pooh Corner chimneys. (2) 15m. Piccolo Wall. A few metres L of Firebird is an unlikely looking wall which overhangs in places. This pitch finishes on a large sloping scrubby ledge. (3) 30m. Piccolo Chimney. Ascend the chimney at the far L of this ledge, which narrows uncomfortably at the halfway point and finishes on the crest of the Flange Buttress. (4) 5m. Tower of Piccolo. Start on the south side and gain the summit of the tower by transferring to the west side. Vacate the tower by a spectacular but easy leap - or so they say... T. Christie, A. Keller, Jan. 1966.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="27m" name="Birthday Treat"
stars="">A hand and fist crack in a shallow orange corner to the L of the final pitches of Piccolo. Reached by abseiling 45 metres from the top to a large bushy tree. Climb the crack. D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m"
name="Best Route in the Gorge " new="false" number=""
stars="*">Scramble up scrubby ledges right of Tower of Power to a sloping stance below 4 fixed hangers (and a DBB) on a thin face and blunt arete. Abseil descent off 2 fixed hangers. Doug McConnell Nov. 2003.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="60m" name="The Tower of Power"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">"I can stand about an hour on the Tower of Power; as long as I get a little golden shower" (Frank Zappa). The massive arête 7m R of the Great Bitch that finishes on the top of the tower. Trend L near the top to double bolt rap anchors. Crux at third height. 19 BR's. N. Hancock, D McConnell, Dec. 2003.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="18" length="15m" name="Canis Minor" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">An independent third pitch to Great Bitch (GB) that climbs the south side of the Tower of Power. Worthwhile and unique for the Organ Pipes. Upon reaching the top of the corner (GB pitch 2), instead of traversing L to the Brown Madonna ledge swing R on to the face of the pillar looming above. Up the intermittent layback cracks between horizontals, using the R arête at times. Rap off as for Towers of Power. M. & H. Jackson, Apr. 1998.
</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" name="The Great Bitch"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">A superb mix of face and crack climbing on the steep wall R of Brown Madonna. (1) 35m 19. Climb the short thin wall to reach some precariously stacked blocks. Move L and up the crack awkwardly to negotiate the bulge. Easier climbing up the line leads to a stance at the top of a pillar on the R wall. Steep jams lead to a belay next to a spike. (2) 20m 17. Continue up chimney/corner past a short layback section. 12m above the belay a narrow foot traverse leads out L to the Brown Madonna ledge and rap anchors. A memorable first ascent in that one of the intrepid leaders had left a boot at home, necessitating a boot being lowered after each lead so that whoever was following could have two! L. Closs, I. Lewis, Dec. 1973.</climb>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="16" length="50m" name="Pink Car" stars="*">An unassuming route that takes the crack line immediately R of Brown Madonna. (1) 25m. Climb the vee-chimney to the hanging flake on the L. Move out R, up the wall and then climb the crack on the L. (2) 25m (a) Original Route. Continue up for 15m and take the L line to the large ledge at the top of Brown Madonna. (b) Direct Route. Straight up to a large ledge. From here traverse L to the Brown Madonna rap anchors. M. McHugh, L. Closs, R. McMahon, Nov. 1971.
</climb>
</guide>
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