< Great Tier | Teardrop Gully >

<guide version="2">
  <header access="Scramble up to the base of the buttress from the Organ Pipes Track. &lt;br/&gt;Descent: Rap chains are located at the top of Ophthalmia, (two 40m abseils)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="A narrow tier with a conspicuous platform (the Step) about a third of the way up the nose on the L. The base of the tier supports a large tilted slab, and the gully to the L is known as Teardrop Gully. Step Tier offers several fine climbs, all virtually next door to each other." name="Step Tier" rock="Clean dolerite cracks up to 80m" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min" id="1"/><image src="StepTierPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2">null</image>
  
  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Sunday Morning Fever" number="" stars="*" id="3" fa="A. Wilson, J. Otlowski et al, Dec 2001.">Up the face to the R of the Peacepipe corner, climb the cracks and flakes to the top staying on the middle of the face. It's a bit run out at the bottom. Belay to the L on the step at the tree. Rap from here also (tape). </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="80m" name="Peacepipe" number="PP" stars="*" id="4" fa="J. Friend, D. Bowman, Jan 1977.">Worth doing for the top pitches. Start to the RH end of Step Tier, below the blocky corner. (1) 26m The original route climbed the loose and vegetated corner, more an exercise in risk management than climbing. Better  to climb the first pitch of Lone Stranger at about the same grade and traverse R to the end of the scrubby terrace and  belay below the crack line. (2) 25m. Move up and through an overhang formed by a massive flake (crux) to a large ledge. (3) 30m. Continue up the interesting and sustained steep crack and chimney to the top. Descent as for Lone Stranger. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="81m" name="Ophthalmia" number="OP" stars="**" id="5" fa="J. Moore, R. Williams, Mar 1967, Direct Start: Phil &amp; Pete Steane, Oct 1982.">So named after the large quantities of loose dirt which once remained after the devastating 1967 bushfires. Pitch two is steep and sustained, and harder now the dead tree has departed. Takes the RH of two crack lines in the middle of the tier that are 4m apart. (1) 24m. Climb the first pitch of Lone Stranger  to a large ledge. Move R and belay at the foot of the prominent crack. A direct start climbs the orange blocky face to a tree on the ledge. (2) 36m (crux). Follow the line up into a chimney and a small bush (50-50 friend &amp; foe). Navigate past the bush and up the delightful crack above to large belay ledge. (3) 21m. Switch to the LH crack that has two awkward moves, one past a tea tree and one almost at the top. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="78m" name="Lone Stranger" number="LS" stars="***" id="6" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1974.">The brilliant corner that takes the LH of the two cracks. Start just to the R of Xenophenese. (1) 26m. Climb the wall to below a corner. (2) 26m. (crux) Bridge and jam the steep corner to a ledge. (3) 26m Switch R to the natural continuation of the Ophthalmia line. Follow the crack round two roofs to the top. Step across L to rap chains above top pitch of Ophthalmia. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="81m" name="Xenophenese" number="XE" stars="**" id="7" fa="I. Lewis, D. Hain, Jan 1974.">A clean and consistent line that is genuinely thrilling. The second line R of Moonraker's start. (1) 24m. Climb the crack to a small sloping ledge. (2) 30m. Up a short corner and face above (mind the suspect rock) to a ledge below a wide crack. Up the crack (crux) to a belay ledge (less sweat with a #4 camelot). (3) 27m. Follow the sensuous handcrack then up a chimney behind a pillar to reach the Step Tier rap chains. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="131m" name="Explorer" number="EX" stars="" id="8" fa="J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct 1966.">Take a GPS. A wandering route of consistent standard. Start as for the lower alternative start to Moonraker, at the very base of the crag. (1) 18m. Up the slab. (2) 20m. Up 2m on good holds, then traverse diagonally R for 10m to a vertical groove. Up this for 6m. (3) 7m. Move R on scrubby ledges into a deep corner. (4) 25m. Chimney up the corner, climb up the nasty steep grassy slope and belay above the vegetation. (5) 10m. Up the corner crack on the L to belay on a large shelf at foot of the irregular chimney. (6) 30m. Follow the chimney over a bulge and into a deep recess. Continue up the wider chimney above and belay on a scrubby flat on top of the main buttress. (7) 21m. Up a line of weakness to finish on a ridge leading to the top. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="40m" name="One Way to the Moon" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="A. Wilson, J. Otlowski, Dec 2001.">Start 5m R of Moonraker and 4m L of Xenophenese. Climb the crack to the Moonraker 'hole', traverse R onto the face and climb the black water streaked face with the thin cracks above. The gear is adequate but well spaced. Belay as for Moonraker. Either rap off, or continue as for Moonraker. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="78m" name="Moonraker" number="MR" stars="***" id="10" fa="M. Douglas, R. Williams, Nov 1966. Pitch 1b: D. Hain, M. Dunstan, B. Kennedy, Jan 1975.">A deservedly popular line up the LH profile of Step Tier. Start at the very end of the main ledge below Step Tier. (The slab below has been climbed as an alternative start). (1) 30m. a) Ascend 2m then traverse R on dodgy rock to the prominent crack line. Follow this, past the cave, to the 'step' of the Tier. b) Alternatively, (better but a tad harder), climb directly up from the start for about 10m and then hand traverse R on the horizontal break to the cave, continuing up the original route. (2) 42m. Climb the crack line on the south side of the prow past the old dodgy peg (still there in 2007), continuing up the walls and chimney above to finish up the arête. (3) 5m. Chimney up behind the pillar to finish by the Step Tier abseil chains. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Mothers on Adrenaline" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="D. Fife, 1996.">Follows cracks just L of the prow on the buttress to the L of Moonraker alternative start. Walk off back down access ledge of Moonraker. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="45m" name=" Sucked In" number="" stars="**" id="12" fa="K. Robinson, C. Godfrey, Jan 2001.">A direct finish to Left Out. Instead of going L onto the arête at the higher horizontal break, continue straight up. </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="50m" name="Left Out" number="" stars="***" id="13" fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Jan 1991.">A gob smacking sustained pitch. Climbs the face L of Moonraker. Start L below the main ledge and move L along the horizontal break to the intermittent crack line. Up this and the face above for 20m to another horizontal break. Move L to the arête and climb up it to the shallow corner. Up this to the top. Take some small cams. Descent as for Moonraker.</climb>
</guide>

< Great Tier | Teardrop Gully >