<guide version="3"> <header access="The Friendly Beaches are reached by turning off the main road 18km north of Coles Bay and walking to the southern end of the beaches, or by following the Coles Bay dam 4 wheel drive track to the southern end of Friendly Beaches. Access is made by scrambling south along the coastline from the southern end of the beach (about 20 minutes), until a large amphitheatre is reached. You can't see the cliffs from the beach because they are around the corner. They are pretty impressive though, and worth the walk. Routes are described left to right, although you'll encounter them right to left." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="The Friendly Beaches are the surf beaches at the northern end of the park. The main cliff at Friendly Point consists of a very impressive south-facing wall with an unusual U shaped runnel forming its left end. This runnel also marks the point where the cliff becomes east facing and is a useful reference point. The routes here are only spoiled by the lack of lower-off anchors." name="Friendly Point" rock="Pink and white granite, up to 20m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 mins" id="1"/> <text class="heading3" id="2">Boot Rock</text><text class="description" id="3">This is the most isolated and least visited section of the coast, midway between Bluestone Bay and Friendly Beaches to the north of the White Water Wall Area. Access is by following the Coles Bay Dam Rd to the old mine site north of Bluestone Bay and about 1km inland. Head towards the coast south of Boot Rock. The most substantial crag is 500m south of the Boot, identified by a Rubik's Cube type wall on the left and a higher wall on the right. There is a large chimney corner at the right hand end of the wall.</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="The Choss Baggers Picnic" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="Richard Eccleston, Adam Potito, Jul 1993.">Begin about 5m to the right of the large left facing corner chimney above a small pedestal. 1. 20m. Jam, bridge and chimney the line. Belay on ledge. 2. 10m. Steep cracks on the right wall of easy corner to the top.</climb><text class="heading3" id="5">Cave Cliff</text><text class="Discussion" id="6">This cliff is located one kilometre south of Friendly Point and is approached via the four wheel drive track leading out to Friendly Point from Coles Bay. Upon reaching Freshwater Lagoon turn right through the campground and follow the steep track at its end to the top of the hill. From the turnaround 50 metres back, head due east, following vague paths through some scrub, down towards a block, atop a cliff with a sea cave cutting through it.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Ship's Krill" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="Nick Hancock, Toby Story, 1 Dec 2002">The steep arête on the south western tip. Approach via the gully leading south past the landward side of the sea cave.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="15m" name="Finger Wimp" number="" stars="**" id="8" fa="Nick Hancock, Toby Story 1 Dec 2002">On the seaward face is a grey slab facing north. Climb carefully past a 6 Rock to the first bolt, then traverse desperately left to the arête passing three more.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Spam Fisted" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Toby Story, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002">The stepped corner forming the right boundary of the grey slab.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="Blue Pfizer" number="" stars="***" id="10" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2006.">So named because it goes straight up at a ridiculous angle. Climb the very steep, but mostly juggy, groove; five metres right of Spam Fisted, via 7 bolts.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Whip Smart" number="" stars="*" id="11" fa="Nick Hancock, Toby Story 1 Dec 2002">On the steep south facing wall, north of the through cave. Climb the right trending flake, step left and layback the flared cack to a good break, then the final thin seam.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Groove Terminator" number="" stars="*" id="12" fa="Doug McConnell, Toby Story, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002">Climb the open groove just right of the flake to a good ledge below the continuation of the flake. Easily up this. Marginal, hard to place protection.</climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Greased Lightning" number="" stars="**" id="13" fa="Doug McConnell, Nick Hancock 1 Dec 2002.">The very thin wall to the right via four U-bolts.</climb><text class="heading3" id="14">Friendly Point</text><climb extra="" grade="12" length="25m" name="Sam And Eloise's First New Route" number="" stars="" id="15" fa="Sam Martin, Eloise Bradley, 199?">South of the main crag a slab is reached by going past a steep bulging wall and through a notch. This climb traverses out onto the slab and follows the line to the top.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="16">The following climbs are in the main ampitheatre. The east facing (seaward) wall of the Amphitheatre comprises two terraces. On the bottom terrace a stepped flake provides a point of reference.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="15" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Love Gets Dangerous" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Tim Chappell, Adam Potito, I. McCulloch Sep 1992.">The route follows twin cracks 7m left of the stepped flake. Start from a pedestal beneath the left crack, move to the right crack and then back left to finish.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Cloaxial" number="" stars="**" id="18" fa="Mark Bennis, Nick Hancock, Nov 2001.">Right of Love Gets Dangerous and about 20 metres left of the runnel; Climb strenuous twin cracks to an obvious undercut flake. Well protected.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Hip Hip Foray" number="" stars="" id="19" fa="Matt Bennett, Allyson Eaton, Nov 2001">On the top tier, on the access ramp above Cloaxial, climb a left facing corner crack in the centre of the cliff, to a juggy roof. Take care with the rock when pulling over.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Unoriginal Sin" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Matt Bennett, Nov 2001.">The fully U-bolted arête just right of the runnel. Take gear for the belay or down-climb and lower off the top bolt.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Axial Of Evil" number="" stars="**" id="21" fa="Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">Just L of the runnel climb the very thin twin cracks, trending slightly rightwards. Well protected.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m" name="She Cooked Me Breakfast" number="" stars="*" id="22" fa="Nick Hancock, Alex Wilson, Jake Bresnehan.">The right trending chimney crack about 18 metres R of the runnel, starting off a hanging ledge.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="23">About 20 m R of the runnel is a magnificent barrelling wall split by 3 cracks</text><climb extra="" grade="26/27" length="20m" name="Chaos Theory" number="" stars="**" id="24" fa="Nick Hancock, Nov 2001">Climbs the left crack with a wicked leap for a fingerlock to start. Make a bold move to a rest at the horizontal, (1/2 friend), and then exhausting moves to gain the bottomless finishing crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="27" length="25m" name="Blank Generation" number="" stars="***" id="25" fa="Andrew Bisset, 2003.">The amazing R trending crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="24/25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Fading Star" number="" stars="**" id="26" fa="Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Nov 2001">Follow the right crack to a hard, strenuous move over the small roof. Well protected.</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Albatross" number="" stars="*" id="27" fa="Dennis Kearnes, John Fry, 1991">The big corner rising above the seaward boulders. Lots of hand sized cams needed.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="18m" name="A Gut Full of Bourbon" number="" stars="**" id="28" fa="Awesome last move! Garry Phillips 2004.">Starts the same as HFOS but from the over-lap under-cling left and finish up the wall above.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="A Head Full of Speed" number="" stars="***" id="29" fa="Garry Phillips 2004.">From the small cave above the sea, climb the wall above to the over lap and head direct to the lower off.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Tall Story" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="Nick Hancock, Mark Bennis, Matt Bennett, Nov 2001">The right arête of the cliff, starting off a block. Clip a U-bolt with difficulty (or a stick), then follow the thin crack to a ledge. Climb the easier crack on the right for a few moves and finish back on the arete.</climb> </guide> |