< Central Buttress | Step Tier >

<guide version="3">
<header access="From the Organ Pipes Track, head up the scree and track to a short wall below the RH end of the ramp. Scramble up this to reach the ramp proper.&lt;br/&gt;Descent: There are two rap routes on the Tier that provide return access to the ramp. One (2 x 45m) descends Blue Meridian. Another (1 x 58m) descends Suicide Sadness and provides descent for routes at the LH end of the tier. Be mindful of this descent if you are using double 50m ropes – it is 58m long but it is possible to down-climb the final bit with care to the ramp." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="L of Central Buttress there is a big wall split by (from R to L) a group of three cracks and a very long chimney-corner. This is Great Tier. At its base, a big ramp trends L underneath the three lines and ends below the chimney-corner (Nefertiti). Most routes, with few exceptions, begin from this ramp." name="Great Tier" rock="Broken dolerite cracks and faces up to 100m" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min" id="1"/><image src="Great TierPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2">null</image><text id="29" class="heading3">Blue Meridian Area</text><text class="text" id="3">See the Arena topo for the line of Blue Meridian.</text><climb extra="9Þ ↓" grade="23" length="23m" name="Shrapnel" number="" stars="*" id="4" fa="A. Williams, C. Godfrey, Mar 2008.">Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just R of Great Tier (below the Arena). The route starts about 5m R of where the Great Tier access track heads up onto the L leading ramp where the other Great Tier routes start. Layback the pillar for 5m to a ledge, step L climb the face trending R to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="90m" name="Slime Time" stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.">Better than it sounds, except after rain. Start at the far RH side of Great Tier and just L of the gully, below a prominent hand crack halfway up the cliff.
1. 45m. Climb the wall L of the gully, aiming for the base of the hand crack to belay on a small ledge with a dead tree.
2. 45m. Traverse R into the crack and move up this past a thin section involving flared finger jams (crux). Climb the arête above when the crack ends to belay on a large ledge just below the top. Abseil off as for Blue Meridian or climb to the top.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="90m" name="Blue Meridian" number="BM" stars="***" id="6" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1985.">Deservedly popular, this mega-classic graces the wall L of Slime Time. From the big ramp where it is most eroded, start at a short vee-groove below some conspicuous horizontal white scabs.
1. 45m. Climb the vee-groove and the line above. A balancy move R and up leads between the white scabs past an odd mantle to a ledge with DBB.
2. 45m. Continue up the double hand cracks to an awkward move to gain a ledge. Up to the next ledge using a dubious block on the LH side. A steep layback is required to negotiate the  bottomless chimney (crux). Continue up to belay ledge and DBB. Descend via rap stations (2 x 45m).</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Shaky Flakes" stars="" id="7" fa="D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, 1983.">On the small wall at the top of Great Tier, above Blue Meridian and Slime Time. Climb the crack system on the wall L of the scrubby corner.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="124m" name="Feeble Fifties" stars="" id="8" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Oct 1981.">Scramble up to the base of the Roaring Forties line to start.
1. 35m. Climb cracks in the wall R of the chimney before traversing L into the Roaring Forties belay.
2. 25m. Continue up for a few metres and take an obvious traverse line R across the face to the next major line.
3. 20m. Up the wall via the crack on the L.
4. 40m. Up the wide chimney awkwardly via scrubby ledges to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="144m" name="Roaring Forties" stars="" id="9" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977." number="RF">The prominent crack line on the R of the Tier.
1. 18m. Scramble up the lower rocks to a scrubby ledge.
2. 42m. Climb the chimney beside a large flake for 12m. Trend L for 3m, then up the face to a 5m vertical crack (4m L of the chimney). Layback the crack and trend R back into the chimney to a large leaning chockstone.
3. 45m. Continue up the chimney past a narrow section to a large ledge on the L. (It is possible to escape from here by easy climbing off to the L).
4. 12m. Crux. Climb the steep corner directly above the chimney.
5. 16m. Trend L for a few metres to some slabs above a dead tree. Climb the slabs which lead to a black chimney with a finger crack.
6. 12m. Up the wall to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="141m" name="Doldrums" stars="" id="10" fa="J. Moore, M. Tillema, May 1968. Direct start: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, R. Rolls, 1979." number="DO">The middle crack of the obvious trio on Great Tier. To start either scramble up the ramp from the R to the base of the line (pitch 2) or
1. 21m. Direct start: up the steep face on small holds to the start of the crack.
2. 24m. Jam around the overhang and belay on a ledge beneath some cutting grass.
3. 24m. Climb the crack then the chimney, moving L at a small overhang, to belay at the base of an obvious crack.
4. 36m. Climb the crack and after passing a bush continue on sloping ledges to easier ground.
5. 36m. Scramble to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="80m" name="Slow Combustion" number="SC" stars="*" id="11" fa="P. Robinson, Basil Rathbone, Nov 1979, Alt start: H. Jackson, 1998.">Sadly for climbers, but not the mountain, the final originally clean pitch is now full of hardy alpine shrubbery. The route is still worth doing for the first three pitches (which can be combined) – it's good climbing at the grade. Start 3m L of Doldrums.
1a. 20m 15. Up the wall to the orange overhang and pass it on the L. Take the RH of two cracks and jam until one can step R onto the face. Belay on a small ledge above.
1b. 20m 16. Alternate start: Climb the blocky wall to the R straight up to the middle of the roof, taking care with loose blocks. Hand traverse out L on good holds (crux) to join the original route on the face above.
2. 20m 14. Follow the thin crack straight up the nice face.
3. 10m 14. Take the line on the L arête to a platform above. A 50m rap off the spike (bring a big sling) will get you to the ground from here.
4. 30m. Scrub bash up short walls and corners trending R to the bolts at the top of Blue Meridian.</climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="66m" name="Passiona" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="V. Kennedy, J. Moore, Jan 1968.">Originally climbed after the 1967 fires, this route takes a line up the chimney and gully R of Nefertiti. However, like a number of other old routes on the Pipes, it now appears to be completely choked up by regrowth and is probably too bushy to be worth climbing. Start from the big ramp.
1. 30m. Crux. Climb the small overhanging chimney above for 16m and step R onto the wall at the overhang. Go over loose blocks to a ledge.
2. 36m. Climb the scrubby gully taking the LH alternatives.</climb><text id="30" class="heading3">Suicide Sadness Area</text><climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="70m" name="Clouds of Obsession" number="CO" stars="**" id="13" fa=" (1) N. Deka, et al. (2) D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">The black streaked wall directly across from Suicide Sadness offers an excellent pitch. Starts from the ramp at a wall, 3m R of Nefertiti.
1. 35m 22. Climb the black streaked wall to belay on a small ledge with a large Hakea bush. Three pins (renewed 2006) help with protection, although other pro is available. Quit while you are ahead and abseil off here (rap station, 25m) or:
2. 35m 16. Step around L and climb the hand crack, or go straight up the wall above the belay. Continue up until forced L into Nefertiti, which is followed to the top. Descend as for Suicide Sadness.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="67m" name="Nefertiti" number="" stars="**" id="14" fa="J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1968.">Deserves an increase in traffic. This is the trad chimney-corner near the L edge of the Tier.
1. 42m. From the LH end of the big ramp, bridge the wide chimney (being cautious of the loose blocks) and belay on a ledge to the R.
2. 25m. Continue up the chimney and traverse L immediately below the wedged chockstone to access the Suicide Sadness rap station.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Thirsty Thirties" stars="" id="15" fa="D. Stephenson, D. Bruce, Apr 1989.">One of the exceptions, this route starts at the base of the cliff proper and finishes at the ramp, taking the prominent crack splitting the wall directly under Suicide Sadness and just L of a dead tree.
1. 5m. Boulder or climb a short wall to a scrubby ledge at the base of the crack.
2. 45m. Climb the wall and thin crack past the loose block (crux). Bridge up the easy corner to belay on the ramp. Walk off R via the big ramp, or continue up another climb.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Terror Firmer" number="" stars="*" id="16" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Apr 2000.">A difficult variant finish to Suicide Sadness (SS). Instead of climbing through the roof on the 2nd pitch of SS, under-cling out R below the roof and climb the seam above to access the rap station as for Suicide Sadness.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="60m" name="Suicide Sadness" number="SS" stars="**" id="17" fa="M. Law, S. Parsons, D. Bowman, 1978.">A thought-provoking face route and corner between Janzoon and Nefertiti. The "temporary" nature of the rock in the initial 15m detracts somewhat from the overall quality. Start from the LH end of ramp, as for Nefertiti.
1. 35m. Climb a couple of metres past a large ledge on L, then continue straight up, passing some very loose blocks and thin face moves (crux) to the bottom of RH facing corner. Climb the corner/crack toward the roof, and 3m below this traverse L to belay ledge (shared with Janzoon).
2. 25m. Move back R to arête and climb through the roof to the twin cracks above. Take the RH line to the belay ledge with rap station. The abseil (1 x 58m) requires an 8m down-climb at the bottom to regain the ramp if using 50m ropes.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Massacre Madness" stars="*" id="18" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, May 1996.">A merger of Janzoon and Suicide Sadness. Climb to the crux of Suicide Sadness (just after the blocks, at 15m). Instead of mantling up R to the ledge as you would for Suicide Sadness, step L and climb the face to the Janzoon ledge. Protection is a little problematic, but adequate.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="68m" name="Janzoon" stars="**" id="19" fa="I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan 1974." number="JA">A thoughtful crack and corner climb that is a credible companion line to Suicide Sadness. Start from the ramp as for Suicide Sadness.
1. 38m. Up to the ledge on L and move in behind the tea-tree. Up the flakes above (again, watch for a loose block or two) and take the RH line (a L-facing corner). Bridge and jam up to an awkward bulge that once negotiated ends on a belay ledge (shared with Suicide Sadness).
2. 30m. Move up and R before stepping out L and up to gain access to the twin cracks above. Take the LH line to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Tsing Gai" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Mar 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1981.">Ought to receive more attention. Located in an exposed position on the prow of the Great Tier. Start as for Janzoon.
1. 8m. Climb up and L to a ledge and belay.
2. 30m. Up the wall above taking the LH line to the top of some dubious flakes. Finger-jam the bulge and continue up the crack system until one can make a spectacular step R around the arête to Janzoon Ledge.
3. 32m. Step back around the arête and climb the thin crack just L of the arête to the top. Traverse back R to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="100m" name="Melancholy Mania" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="K. Bischoff, J. Barnett, A. Wing, Mar 1981.">The dark chimney corner L of Tsing Gai. Start at the foot of the corner, as for Peacepipe.
1. 35m. Up the chimney corner for 15m then step R and scramble up grassy ledges to belay at the foot of a chimney.
2. 45m. Climb easily up the chimney, taking care with jammed blocks. At 40m, mantle on two large blocks into a cave. Chimney and bridge out around a large chockstone to belay on a large ledge.
3. 20m. Crux. Climb the RH crack for 3m then move L into the middle one. Continue jamming up, then chimney out past a chockstone and finish through a hole behind some jammed blocks.</climb><text class="heading3" id="22">Zoloft Wall</text><image src="Zoloft.jpg" width="300" id="23">null</image><text class="text" id="24">Zoloft Wall is found at the top of the cliffs between Melancholy Mania (Great Tier) and Explorer (Step Tier), and is best approached from Mt Wellington summit. Locating the climbs from the top is not easy, but it's worth it. Head towards Upper Teardrop Gully and continue down the ridge from near the top of Ano's Sojourn, deviating to the LH (river) side where necessary. Alternatively, come across from the south side of the Arena. After a bit of scrambling and downclimbing you will emerge near the top of Sheeza and other routes at the RH end of Upper Teardrop Gully. Rap in (tape abseil) just east of here.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Dynamic Journey" number="DJ" stars="**" id="25" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">Terrific value. Abseil 25m to the upper of two ledges in common with Zoloft and Static Journey. From the RH side of the ledge and R of the hanging arête/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) to the overhang (1m L of Melancholy Mania). Follow the hand crack up the R of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the wall on the R to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Zoloft" number="ZO" stars="**" id="26" fa="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 1999.">Excellent exposure towards the top. Varied climbing on the face and cracks L of the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania. Access by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of line. Climb the finger crack/face off the L of the initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the L of the hanging nose/arête until one can move R into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep section following hand cracks up the middle R of the hanging face.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Choc-o-Block" number="CB" stars="" id="27" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">The wide crack system just R of Static Journey. Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Journey/Zoloft. Climb to the top of the crack and move L to the offwidth with chockstones.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name="Static Journey" number="" stars="**" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2000.">Best done on a warm summer's day. Abseil in 50m to the start of the climb, 3m R of Explorer. Climb the corner on the R for 8m to a ledge (where Zoloft starts). Up the crack on the L (also used by Zoloft) for 14m to a large sloping ledge. Move L around the corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the thin line up the face to the top.</climb>
</guide>

< Central Buttress | Step Tier >