<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="1000" version="3"> <header access="Turn left onto Safety Cove Road, just past the turn off to Port Arthur (about 200m past the petrol station / store). Drive to the very end of this road and park at the Remarkable Cave car park. A signpost marks the start of a formed track leading towards Mt Brown, and most cliffs in the area are accessed by leaving this track at the appropriate time. Access to Parrot Shelf: turn off to the right at a small sandy creek (after about 30 minutes). The top of the Parrot Shelf cliff is a short walk from here, and the base accessed at the southern end. Access to Paradiso: walk to the top of the Parrot Shelf, then continue south along the shore slabs for another 5 minutes. A short downclimb is required to reach the base of the cliffs, or otherwise abseil in Access to Dauntless Point: follow the track past the sandy creek until it starts to head left. Head a little to the right of the saddle between Mt. Brown and Dauntless Point toward a black dead patch near the base of the hill. From here, head up to the saddle where upon easy walking with an excellent outlook may be had up along the eastern edge of the cliffs to the highest point. The cliff edge may be followed the whole way to the end of the point, with a rough track providing access through scrubby sections (about 15 more minutes). It is also possible (and less scrubby) to branch off the main Mount Brown track when it starts to steepen (just after the triangular fork) and follow the contour around to the Dauntless/Brown col. Access to Mount Brown Main Face: follow the main walking track to a triangular fork below the slopes of Mount Brown and then take the summit track heading uphill. When about 50m from the trig station, turn west and head towards the highest point at the cliff edge (about 1 hour from the car to the rap station). The main walking track continues all the way to Crescent Bay, which is a worthwhile diversion (especially on a hot day), as well as having some additional climbing at each end." acknowledgement="by Marcel Jackson and Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="The cliffs around Mt. Brown provide a substantial range of climbing in an exciting setting. Like half of Tassie's southern coastline, the rock is dolerite, but despite its location directly between Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar, there is not a column to be seen. Huge weathered sheets of featured rock form towering overhanging walls on the west side, while to the east the same formations make even larger slabs. The steep walls have a heap of potential for some really fantastic cranking, and have already yielded a healthy harvest of classic sport climbs. Climbs of most grades, styles and angles exist in relative abundance, but arguably the best aspect about this area is the atmosphere. There are few experiences as pleasant as sitting on the warm rocks at Land's End in the late afternoon sun watching the Gannets dive. Even the evil 170m cave cliff of Mt. Brown glows orange and succumbs to the magic. On the other hand, there are few experiences as dramatic and ferocious as the Paradiso when the sea gets up." name="Mount Brown" rock="Wave sculpted dolerite, 10-200m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="20-60 minutes" id="1"/> <gps id="2"><point code="MBR010" description="DNA Land; Top of Stem Cell" easting="569331" height="32" northing="5216888" zone="55G"/><point code="MBR020" description="Parrot Shelf; Top of Geronimo" easting="569835" height="22" northing="5216469" zone="55G"/><point code="MBR030" description="40 Degrees South; Slab where you turn off to go to anchors" easting="569994" height="0" northing="5216028" zone="55G"/><point code="MBR040" description="40 Degrees South; Rap anchors" easting="569966" height="0" northing="5215989" zone="55G"/><point code="MBR050" description="Time Goes Bye; Rap anchors" easting="570343" height="168" northing="5215926" zone="55G"/><point code="MBR051" description="I've Heard it all Before; Rap anchors" easting="570358" height="170" northing="5215911" zone="55G"/></gps><image noPrint="false" src="mountBrownMap.png" width="800" id="3"/> <text class="heading3" id="4">DNA Land</text><text class="Discussion" id="5">This small area has some good climbs similar to the Cataract Gorge and is largely unaffected by swell. The cliff is found just along from the southern entrance to the Maingon Blowhole, facing Cape Raoul. There are no lower-offs, so use the boulder at the top for an anchor. Approach and descend easily from the south.</text><climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="12m" name="Gene Therapy" number="1." stars="**" id="6" fa="Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.">The flared crack passing a small roof at half height, past 4 U-bolts.</climb><climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="12m" name="Double Helix" number="2." stars="*" id="7" fa="Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">The double-sided square arête, starting over a roof. 4 U-bolts.</climb><climb extra="3Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Stem Cell" number="3." stars="**" id="8" fa="Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">Thin bridging up the blank corner past 3 or 4 U-bolts.</climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Genetic Code" number="4." stars="*" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, Feb 2003.">Climb the L facing flake crack on small cams to a U-bolt near the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="10">The Parrot Shelf Cliffs</text> <text class="Discussion" id="11">Of all the cliffs climbed at Mt. Brown, the Parrot Shelf cliffs are among the smallest. However, they offer quick access and a good collection of quality little routes in a pleasant position. The cliff is in two sections, with the lower, LH half being susceptible to waves in rougher weather.</text><image noPrint="false" src="parrotShelf.jpg" width="" id="12" legend="true" legendTitle="" legendx="5" legendy="5"><legend>13</legend><legend>14</legend><legend>15</legend><legend>17</legend><legend>18</legend><legend>19</legend><legend>20</legend><legend>22</legend><legend>30</legend><legend>32</legend><legend>33</legend><legend>36</legend></image> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="Low Road" number="1." stars="**" id="13" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994.">Clean rock, good pro, marvellous position. Destined for permanent classic status. Start at the extreme L end of the lower ledge, just on the edge of the sea cave. Step L off the ledge into the crack and then continue to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="18m" name="Lost Sheep" number="2." stars="*" id="14" fa="G.Jordan, Sep 1996.">The first crack system R of Low Road.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="Better Than It Looks, Three Stars" number="3." stars="" id="15" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996.">You'd have to be suspicious of a name like that! Crack system with three small roofs, 2m R of Lost Sheep. A bit thrutchy.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Wanker Diver" number="4." stars="*" id="16" fa="G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995.">Climbs the juggy wall 10m R of Low Road. Continue up slab when jugs run out.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Pib and Pog" number="5." stars="*" id="17" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996.">Up the superb pockets and flakes 3m L of Geronimo. Cruxes are at the ground and at the rooflet.</climb> <climb extra="3Þ" grade="20" length="12m" name="Geronimo" number="6." stars="**" id="18" fa="S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 1995.">The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="First Launch" number="7." stars="**" id="19" fa="G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995.">This lies 3m R of Geronimo. Thin face moves to the horizontal at 2.5m. Continue up shallow corner to large ledge with rap station.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Diller" number="8." stars="" id="20" fa="M.Stuver, J.Corbett, Jul 1995.">At the extreme L of the upper ledge, several large blocks can be seen precariously balanced at the top of the cliff. Climb the arête below on its L face, passing the balanced blocks very lightly at the top. Not to be attempted by heavy people.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Open Cut" number="9." stars="" id="21" fa="P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.">The next line to the right of Diller. Jam up on the left then bridge and exit via the narrow crack out right.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Lay Line" number="10." stars="**" id="22" fa="M.Jackon, H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.">An aesthetic line. Takes the arête (climbed on the right face) 1.5m right of Open Cut. Balancey moves to good runners at the horizontal, then up the arête and hairline crack (crux) with very small wires. Finish pleasantly past the roof on the left.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Black Cockatoo" number="11." stars="**" id="23" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Jul 1995.">Another good climb. The thin shallow line immediately R of Lay Line.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Cirrostratus" number="12." stars="" id="24" fa="D.James, L.Rollins, Mar 1996.">Climb the first 3 metres of Octopussy, then hand traverse L along obvious horizontal crack. Finish traversing at Open Cut and climb this to finish.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="The Gift" number="13." stars="**" id="25" fa="Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004.">Arête L of Octopussy.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Octopussy" number="14." stars="*" id="26" fa="R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug 1995.">The prominent thin chimney between Black Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="14m" name="Do Worms Eat Finger Tape?" number="15." stars="*" id="27" fa="Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004.">Climb the gently overhanging scoop just R of Octopussy then finish up easier crack above.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="14m" name="No Stove, No Key, No Telli!" number="16." stars="*" id="28" fa="Ben Sutton, Hat' Grey, 9 Feb 2004.">Climb the narrow face just L of Polly.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Polly" number="17." stars="" id="29" fa="P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.">To the R of Octopussy is a narrow corner facing R. Climb up the crack and continue to the top with excellent pro.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="14m" name="True Grit" number="18." stars="*" id="30" fa="B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov 1994.">About 5m R of Polly there is a rough, L-facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake (crux), step R into its curving continuation, then finish direct.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Dog Barf Road" number="19." stars="*" id="31" fa="Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004.">Climb the scoop just R of True Grit, finishing as for True Grit.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="14m" name="Brimful of Asher" number="20." stars="**" id="32" fa="Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004.">Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold. Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then make tricky moves up, then L to attain a standing position on small holds on the blunt arete. The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides a tricky crux. Finish slightly L.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Kelpie" number="21." stars="" id="33" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.">To the R of True Grit is a corner with a slightly imposing finger hand crack for its second half. Climb this (it is a little loose at the top).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="14m" name="New" number="22." stars="" id="34" fa="D Grey, Jun 2000."/> <climb extra="" grade="13" length="14m" name="Cracker" number="23." stars="" id="35" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994.">10m to the R of Kelpie is a face with a steep overhang at about half height. Climb this then turn the bulge with ease. Continue up loose rock to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="12m" name="Indigo" number="24." stars="*" id="36" fa="R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995.">Climb the face 3m L of Zephyr to a horizontal break at 1/3 height. Follow thin vertical crack to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Zephyr" number="25." stars="" id="37" fa="R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995.">At the RH end of the cliffs is a protruding nose-like feature about 2m up. Climb the pock-marked face to the L of this.</climb><image noPrint="false" src="South Parrot Shelf small.jpg" width="" id="38"/><text class="text" id="39">Around the corner right of ‘Zephyr’ is a small (10-12m) cliff facing the Paradiso, although the latter is not visible from here. Easier at the top, it is a handy beginners cliff and can still be climbed on when the swell is really high, a not uncommon occurrence. It has been climbed on before, but these descriptions and grades are from Phil Robinson's ascents in May 2009.</text><climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="" number="26." stars="" id="40" fa="">The corner around to the L, difficulty increasing with height. The short crack left of the corner at the top (16) is also worth a look.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="" number="27." stars="" id="41">An enjoyable arête</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="" number="28." stars="" id="42">The face to the L of the crack, difficult in the middle.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="" number="29." stars="" id="43">The crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="" number="30." stars="" id="44">A nice face climb, although broken by ledges.</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="10m" name="" number="31." stars="" id="45">The crack to the R.</climb><climb extra="" grade="10" length="10m" name="" number="32." stars="" id="46">The next crack right.</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="10m" name="" number="33." stars="" id="47">The ledges and chimney to the R.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="" number="34." stars="" id="48">The face and thin line to the R with an awkward start.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="" number="35." stars="" id="49" fa="M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini.">Four meters right of #34 is a bouldery seam which is gained by a short broken corner.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="" number="36." stars="" id="50" fa="M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini.">Starts as per #35 but takes the diagonal seam rightwards across the blank face.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="51">The Paradiso</text><climb extra="3Þ" grade="17" length="" name="Mixed Groceries" number="" stars="" id="52" fa="S.Young, Jan 2007.">The bolted arête to the L of Shock Wave. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off.</climb> <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" length="13m" name="Shock Wave" number="" stars="**" id="53" fa="R.Parkyn, Aug 1995.">This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="13m" name="Lost Souls" number="" stars="*" id="54" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.">Starts 4m to the R of Shock Wave and follows the overhanging corner, protection is available but hard to arrange. A testing climb up an obvious (but a little loose) feature.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="16" length="13m" name="Unzip" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="H.Jackson, May 1994.">Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of Lost Souls. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock.</climb> <climb extra="4Þ" grade="18" length="10m" name="High Noon" number="" stars="*" id="56" fa="G.Phillips, Oct 1995.">Between Unzip and Winkle climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="12m" name="Sponge Bob" number="" stars="*" id="57" fa="E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.">Start in the wide crack right of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="13m" name="Winkle" number="" stars="*" id="58" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.">Takes the chimney 8m R of Unzip. Very pleasant, easy climbing.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="59">To the right of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, allowing easy but careful access to the top of the cliff. After about 30m more routes begin.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="18m" name="Borogove" number="" stars="" id="60" fa="M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Sep 1994.">Step over the L edge of the puddle into an easy, R trending corner on excellent rock. Climb this to a ledge half-height, then continue up the holey and slightly overhanging arête headwall above on jugs.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Stolopin" number="" stars="*" id="61" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Sep 1994.">Crank the initially difficult and steep face just R of the puddle. After the ledge at half height, continue straight up the face. The second followed up the overhanging arête to the R at the same grade.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="62">At this point the cliff turns a slight corner and immediately becomes overhanging. This is where the fun starts. </text> <climb extra="6Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Super Charger" number="" stars="**" id="63" fa="G.Phillips, Sep 1995.">First line on the overhanging wall. 6 bolts plus a .75 Camalot or similar (on a long runner), for high up on the route.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Belly Of The Beasts" number="" stars="**" id="64" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994.">About 4m to the R of Super Charger is a weakness up the overhanging face with a downward-pointing horizontal chimney feature at half height. Climb this with the crux entering the stance under the roof chimney with an excellent but difficult to protect lay back finish.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Captain Napalm" number="" stars="**" id="65" fa="S.Edwards, May 1997.">The line 2m L of Bagpipe.</climb><climb extra="6Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Bagpipe Original" number="" stars="*" id="66" fa="S.Edwards, Dec 1996.">3m R of Belly of the Beasts is an overhanging corner. Up this and through the roof (crux) past 6 bolts to a lower-off.</climb> <climb extra="6Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Bagpipe Remix" number="" stars="**" id="67" fa="S.Edwards, May 1997.">This direct version of the previous goes up the face 2m R of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route," he says.</climb><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Master of Disaster" number="" stars="" id="68" fa="S.Edwards, Aug 97.">Not a climb but a traverse. Start by bridging in the Bagpipe corner then traverse R along the base of the wall to finish at Expendable Youth. "To be continued," he says. </problem> <climb extra="6Þ" grade="24" length="25m" name="Thunder Birds Are Go" number="" stars="**" id="69" fa="S.Edwards, Aug 1995.">The bolted line about 6m R of Belly Of The Beasts. Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top. 6 bolts and a #2 and #3 Camalot.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="25m" name="Kraken" number="" stars="**" id="70" fa="R.Eberhard, Oct 1995.">Starts 2m R of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolt runners and follow the crack to the large ledge. Shares the same finish as Thunder Birds past the last bolt.</climb> <climb extra="10Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Offender Of The Faith" number="" stars="***" id="71" fa="R.Parkyn, Oct 1995.">Another superb steep and sustained route about 5m R of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. Fully bolted.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="Southern Exposure" number="" stars="**" id="72" fa="J.Bresnehan, 2007.">Just L of Sultan of Sweat, past a mixture of FH and U-bolts.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24/25" length="35m" name="Sultan Of Sweat" number="" stars="***" id="73" fa="S.Edwards. ">About another 5m to the R is another desperate problem, the crux also being the roof at 4m. After this follow ten bolts to the top (with a cam somewhere midway as the exception that proves the rule).</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25/26" length="30m" name="No Name" number="" stars="**" id="74" fa="Garry Phillips, Nov 2009.">The line to the right of Sultan of Sweat.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="27m" name="Expendable Youth" number="" stars="***" id="75" fa="S.Edwards, 1998.">There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="28" length="40m" name="Expendable Amnesia" number="" stars="**" id="76" fa="Garry Phillips Jan 2010.">Long and sustained. Climb all of Expendable Youth and then finish up Retrograde Amnesia. Use a long draw on the chains of Expendable and skip a few bolts on Retrograde to reduce rope drag.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="27" guide.action="submit" guide.id="59" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="28m" name="Snooze and You Lose" number="" stars="***" id="77" fa="G.Phillips, 2007.">Super good. Climb Expendable Youth to half height, then head L and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat.</climb> <climb extra="13Þ" grade="26" length="35m" name="Retrograde Amnesia" number="" stars="***" id="78" fa="Nick Hancock & Ben Ridder, Apr 2004.">Start 5m R of Expendable Youth. Climb the juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the R. Trend L under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-8 on a second rope or use long draws.</climb><climb id="212" stars="***" name="Captain Jack" length="20m" grade="29/30" fa="Andy Richardson, Jan 2010">The line of hangers that takes the blocky roof to the R of Retrograde Amnesia. Bloody awesome! Finishes at the fixed rap ring.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="61" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Number One" number="" stars="***" id="79" fa="G.Phillips, 2007.">Starts as for Total Recall, then head L at roof and up to chains on the ledge. Can be done just on bolts, or if you like your sanity take #1 and #2.5 Friends for the top.</climb><climb extra="12Þ" grade="27" length="35m" name="Total Recall" number="" stars="***" id="80" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">A magnificent route that climbs the massive leaning wall about 20m R of Expendable Youth. Climb an overhanging layback corner to a desperate move R under the roof. Pull L over this then climb straight up, until a move R at the top.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Random People" number="" stars="" id="81" fa="Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 2006. (One rest due to slimy rock; has since been freed by another party)">Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route.</climb><climb id="205" stars="**" name="K2" length="55m" grade="21" extra="Þ" fa="G. Phillips and A. Lewis Mar 2010.">Starts 20m right of Total Recall in a small right facing corner. 1. 25m 21. Follow the bolts to the ledge. Fantastic rock. 2. 30m 21. Up to the break and then leftwards and up to next ledge. Quit whilst you're ahead and rap the route (two 30m raps) or one extra bolt gives access to the top.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="82">No climbs exist for the next 30m or so until the point where a massive corner feature can be seen.</text> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Dominion" number="" stars="" id="83" fa="M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994 (alt).">At the base of the corner described is a relatively short overhanging wall. Start at the arete at the RH end of this (about 12m to the right). 1. 25m 17. Climb the arete (crux) then follow the R trending ramp to a ledge. Trend back L up the crack and ledge system until the juggy rock near the corner is reached (about 5m below the roof). 2. 15m 18. Move up R, across the face to reach the hollow at the R end of the roof. Continue up to a sloping ledge above the roof. Unfortunately the climbing, protection, and rock quality drop off significantly after this point, so the ascentionists abseiled off some gear at this point. Not recommended until an anchor is placed at the sloping ledge.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Six Bells Chime" number="" stars="*" id="84" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994.">About 20m R of the start of Dominion, a R-wards tending diagonal can be seen about 12m up the cliff. Start immediately below the start of this. Climb the face (the first move is the hardest) to the base of the diagonal then continue along this to finish at the ledge. A sling abseil can be arranged on the far R of the ledge.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="85">Below and to the R of the afore mentioned ledge is a right facing corner with two crack systems, one on the L wall, one on the R (outward facing) wall. </text> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Blue Lotus" number="" stars="*" id="86" fa="M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Jun 1996.">Takes the L line, moving R into the corner at the top to avoid a large, loose block. Abseil from the ledge as for Six Bells Chime.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Chasing The Dragon" number="" stars="*" id="87" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994.">Climbs the R line. Start about 2m R of the corner, climb a R facing flake which tends L to the line. Follow the line with small wires for pro, past a slight deviation L on the face, to regain the crack system after a metre or so. Continue up to the ledge as for Six Bells Chime to finish.</climb> <climb extra="11Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Too Tall Oxen" number="" stars="***" id="88" fa="Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges, Dec 2003.">Start just R of Chasing the Dragon, just before a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Vena Cava" number="" stars="*" id="89" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Oct 1999.">This vital line resisted a number of attempts by different parties before a sneaky solution saw it go easily. The very overhanging corner between Chasing the Dragon and Ilkley Roof, starting at the L of the wave washed platform that must be crossed to reach Aquaphobia area. Avoid offwidth at base gracefully (inevitably a little run out without a five/six Camalot), then follow steep corner. Awkward exit up headwall to belay at large ledge. Abseil from 2 wires in face above ledge.</climb><climb id="213" stars="***" name="No Name" length="18m" grade="26" extra="Þ " fa="Garry Phillips, Dec 2010">The over-hanging arete to the right of Too Tall Oxen. Fully bolted.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="90">From here the ledge drops away into a water funnel (which in bad weather can be quite dangerous) and rises on the other side to a big ledge.</text> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Ilkley Roof" number="" stars="**" id="91" fa="B.McMahon, J.Fisher, 1996.">Takes the striking corner roof feature on the outward facing nose L of Aquaphobia. A second, runnerless, pitch can be done.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="20m" name="Team Caffeine" number="" stars="*" id="92" fa="Garry Phillips, Feb 2004.">The line of bolts to the L of Aquaphobia.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="25m" name="Show Time" number="" stars="*" id="93" fa="Garry Phillips, Feb 2004.">Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="25m" name="Aquaphobia" number="" stars="***" id="94" fa="S.Edwards, Sep 1995.">This route starts up the L side of the brilliant, R-facing wall and then makes a memorable rising traverse over to the R side. Power up to the third bolt, then do a delicate traverse R and up to a layback crack, finishing at a rap station.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="25m" name="Don't Ride The Wild Wave" number="" stars="" id="95" fa="G.Phillips, Sep 1995.">This climb starts 5m R of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and L to finish up Aquaphobia.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Deep Blue" number="" stars="*" id="96" fa="Cam Veal, Feb 2004.">The line of bolts to the R of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17/18" length="28m" name="Carthage" number="" stars="*" id="97" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994.">The bow shaped corner at the R of the beautiful face. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty with the crux midway up the overhanging section. Abseil from bushes at the ledge to escape.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Ad Parnassum" number="" stars="" id="98" fa="M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Oct 1994.">About 10m R of Carthage is another crack line (just L of the arête). Climb this, starting at the very base of the crack, with the crux passing through the small roof. Take care of the large loose block which must be passed to enter the final corner crack. Abseil from the bushy ledge.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="28" length="35m" name="Déjà Vu" number="" stars="***" id="99" fa="N. Hancock, Feb 2008.">Nick’s 10 hours of bolting at the end of 2003, and numerous fear and wave frustrated attempts, finally paid off. One of the most spectacular climbs anywhere! From an isolated ledge 5m R of Ad Parnassum, climb rightwards then up to a tiny ledge in an awesome position on the arête. Hard moves above lead into a finger crack, and another opportunity to mess up, before more reasonable climbing to a TBB. 13 bolts, and you will need a couple of cams for the belay at the bottom.</climb><climb extra="14b" grade="25" length="30m" name="Aide-mémoire" number="" stars="**" id="100" fa="Nick & Heather Hancock and Quinn Griggs Feb 2010.">Start down right of Deja Vu on the (sometimes) sea-washed platform. Hard moves straight up a thin seam to join the traverse of Deja Vu. Move right on crimps (as for Deja Vu) to the next bolt and then climb straight up to a step left before finishing up the right-trending groove. Triple bolt belay.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="101">Hades</text> <text class="Discussion" id="102">Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m. From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, it's apparent that the cave connects to the east side of the point (presumably the cave at Inferno) since water can be seen entering from around a corner at the back. </text><climb id="208" stars="**" fa="Garry Phillips & Simon Young with thanks to Alex Lewis" name="Awake My Soul" length="60m" grade="25">Access: Head out as if going to the Paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs above Hades on the Paradiso side, facing Cape Raoul (cairned) and are just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted. One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be. 1) 30m, 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopey holds (crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted). 2) 30m, 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top. Rack: 14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws) Singles of .5, .75, 1 Camalot Doubles of 2 & 3 Camalot </climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25 (22A0)" length="70m" name="40 Degrees South" number="" stars="***" id="103" fa="Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27 Dec 2005.">An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates. 1. 15m 20. Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2. 35m 23. Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 25. sting in the tail pitch) Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.</climb><climb extra="DWS" grade="20" length="" name="High & Dry" number="" stars="**" id="104" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2003.">Traverse R from Hades to Meadowbank. Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the R end of the Furnace.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="105">Holy Smokes Wall</text> <text class="text" id="106">Around the other side of the big cave, as if accessing the multi-pitch 40 Degrees South there is a very steep over hanging wall. There are two routes on it. </text> <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="20m" name="Holy Smokes" number="" stars="**" id="107" fa="Garry Phillips, Dec 2005.">Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then heel hook over the lip and mantle on to the slab and up to chains. Exposed.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Project" number="" stars="" id="108">R of Holy Smokes.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="109">The Furnace / Land's End</text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="110">Land's End is the area of cliffs at the southern tip of Dauntless Point, regardless of whether that cliff is on the east or the west face. The only access to these cliffs is by abseil (or by a very long swim) but do not be put off. The area is very pleasant (particularly in the afternoon) with good, safe ledges (between 1 and 15m from cliff base to edge) well above the waves on most days and some fairly easy climbs enabling a quick escape to the top if necessary.</text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="111">On the west face, the northern end of Land's End is marked by an abrupt change in the nature of the cliff. The strangely jagged featured rock suddenly switches to a very overhanging wall, the Furnace. While not as tall as The Paradiso, The Furnace is a little steeper still and should receive some more attention in the future. </text> <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="112">More northerly still, the ledge at the base becomes a mere hanging footpath, and the cliffs become easier angled and smaller. The one ledge is used to access all climbs on the western face. </text> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="12m" name="Nearing The End" number="" stars="" id="113" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, May 1995.">Climb the L facing corner only a meter or so before the northern end of the ledge.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Haliaeetus" number="" stars="" id="114" fa="D.James, H.Jackson, May 1995.">10m to the R of Nearing The End is a crack starting in a short, steep corner chimney. Bridge this then follow the easiest line.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="115">A thin ledge exists at the top of the steep wall of the Furnace. Since the climbing above this is only very slightly overhanging, the following two climbs are better done as two pitches each.</text> <climb grade="24" length="25m" name="Flesh Flounder" stars="" id="116" fa="J.Fisher, P.Steane, May 1995.">This steep climb takes the crack up the middle of The Furnace which has a small, sloping, hanging ledge at about 3m. Steep sustained jamming required. Finish up the easier wall above.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Prayers on Fire" number="" stars="*" id="117" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Feb 1995.">Ascends the second last and last full length cracks on the R of The Furnace. Start below the L crack and climb up to the horizontal break. Traverse to the R crack and climb this until the L crack can be gained to finish the overhanging wall. Finish up the easier wall above. Originally graded 24 on first ascent...</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Throne of Blood" number="" stars="**" id="118" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994.">On the furthest R of The Furnace a short, steep layaway crack leads quickly to a slab above. Climb this then traverse diagonally R across the slab, to access the steep hanging corner high on the R (to the R of Pale Fire). Climb this corner to finish (easier climbing in an exciting position).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="28m" name="Pale Fire" number="" stars="*" id="119" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995.">Starts just to the R of Throne of Blood and heads straight up the short corner, onto the slab and on up the steep L-tending corner above (to the L of Throne of Blood). Exit the top of this out L onto the face (crux) then up to finish.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Burnout" number="" stars="*" id="120" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994.">About 5m L of Stone Biter. Head L up a R-facing wall then around arête to the steep slab. Up to ledge then more easily to top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="Stone Biter" number="" stars="***" id="121" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Oct 1994.">At the top of the cliff and about 10m to the L of the upper corner of Serrator is a chimney feature, overhanging about 45° rightward. Climb grooves below this to ledge then into the chimney. The brilliant crux is stepping out onto the airy arête to exit the blocked chimney, 1m below the top. Highly recommended.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Serrator" number="" stars="*" id="122" fa="P.Jackson, M.Jackson (alt), Sep 1994.">The clean, upper corner of this climb finishes at the last piece of the point which can be easily accessed by foot and can be distinguished by its fawn (instead of blue-grey) coloured rock. 1. 20m. Start in the corner roughly below this. Climb the corner then back L up groove finally to a difficult mantelshelf onto the big ledge. 2. 15m. Up the enjoyable corner.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="13m" name="Carrighfergus" number="" stars="*" id="123" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995.">Climbs the pleasant face about 5 metres L of Sinkiller. The wall is steeper and more difficult than it appears.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="13m" name="Sinkiller" number="" stars="*" id="124" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994.">A short, very overhanging corner is the dominant feature of the R most part of this side of the cliffs. Climb easily up slabby rock to a ledge, then tackle the very overhanging (for Tasmania) corner.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="125">The following climbs are on the east face of Lands End and can be accessed by abseil only (this is easily done from the rocks at the southern most end of the point). Once down, one can scramble around without too much trouble, but no extensive ledges exist. This area has a wonderfully unique atmosphere. </text> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="30m" name="Marlin" number="" stars="**" id="126" fa="H.Jackson, D.James, Jun 1995.">An excellent hanging groove leads up to the ledge at which Pale Fire and Sinkiller finish (one can scramble down to this). Start below the groove, at the south eastern tip of the whole point. Climb up to the groove, enter it (crux) and climb it (trickier than it looks). A strong line.</climb> <climb grade="13" length="30m" name="Selkie" stars="*" id="127" fa="P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 1994.">This climb takes the line down which the western abseil goes. Climb easily up through the small roof at about 8m then on to the top. The climbing is pleasant although the protection is sparse.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="13" length="35m" name="Seasick" number="" stars="" id="128" fa="A.Vincent, M.Jackson, Jun 1995.">Takes a wandering line around the roofs to the L of Persephone. Not very interesting, but might make a good easy escape route.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="35m" name="Persephone" number="" stars="" id="129" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994.">There are two 45 degree angle roofs about 15m R of Selkie. Start on the ledge down lower just past the second of these. Climb the easy corner then move onto the arête above the roof. Climb this arête and face to the top. A little contrived and with long runouts.</climb><text class="heading3" id="130">Meadowbank</text> <text class="Discussion" id="131">Meadowbank. A place. Moving further right from Persephone, the cliff becomes an area of easy rock and indistinct gully features which may be variously ascended at a standard of grade 2 or harder, providing unroped upward access for cautious, competent people. A large ledge roughly marks the north eastern boundary of Land's End. To the right of this the cliff steepens once more, eventually transforming into a dark sea cave. The following climb takes the diagonal directly above the lip of the cave, from the right. </text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Ishmael" number="" stars="" id="132" fa="S.Jarman, S.Bray, A.Passmore, Jul 1997.">This route (and Volunteers Abroad) are accessed by abseiling off Meadowbank to a large, chossy ledge just R of Persephone. The attractive line 12m R of the abseil ledge. Beware of loose rock. 1. 15m 11. Traverse Northwards from abseil ledge to an obvious cave ledge full of rounded, bulbous knobs. Belay. 2. 35m 15. Climb diagonally up and L of the overhanging roof of the cave to good vertical spike. From this, go up pocket-filled wall with crack on its R, cross over Volunteers Abroad and climb directly to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="105m" name="Volunteers Abroad" number="" stars="" id="133" fa="H.Jackson, A.Roberts (alt.), Jul 1997.">Traverses the strong horizontal line at half cliff-height, crossing above a huge cave and up the major corner L of Moloch. Loose and sparsely-protected. 1. 45m 11. Traverse the hanging slab (20m above sea-level) towards a cave. Belay under roof, above south lip of the sea cave. 2. 30m 15. Continue traversing, over the cave, then crank out on the R wall to exit from beneath roof. Belay on ledge around arête on R. 3. 30m 14. Follow large corner with crack above, veering L onto slab to finish.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Moloch" number="" stars="*" id="134" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Oct 1994.">Abseil down the cliff about 20m north of the corner above the cave. From here scramble to the arete that forms the mouth of the cave. 1. 27m. Climb the east face of the arête (sparse pro) to a very loose ledge. 2. 23m. Traverse down L and around to the dark face above the cave. Follow the diagonal (spectacular but easy) heading up just before the corner is reached on strange rock (though a little loose).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="45-50m" name="Impalation" number="" stars="" id="135" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, H.Jackson, Sep 1994.">Takes the second arête north of Moloch. There is potential for many very easy slab routes in this area but none would be very good due mostly to poor rock. 1. 40m. Up to a ledge about 5m below the top. 2. 5-10m. Escape to the world above (loose and variable). Not recommended.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="53m" name="Inferno" number="" stars="***" id="136" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Aug 1994.">A dark and evil classic. This takes the line up the face of the ferocious cave 150m north of Moloch. It is believed that this cave connects with Hades on the other side of the point. Once the cave entrance has been spotted (since it enters the cliff at an angle, it can be seen from the south only), set up an abseil rope (leave it fixed) to abseil down just north of the R arête of the cave (taking extreme care on the appallingly loose cliff top). Scramble round to a spike at the R of the cave entrance (about 3m tall and 7m above the water) to start. 1. 48m. Step down L toward the cave and traverse to the triangular ledge. Climb up and L onto the overhanging face of the cave entrance and on up to the ledge (an awesome situation in rough seas ). Up the huge corner (initially a little loose) until an escape can be made R to the ledge just below the top. 2. 5m. Escape to the loose cliff top. NB: Belaying at the big ledge half way up would give more balanced pitches.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="137">The following climb weaves through the impressive labyrinth of roofs that cap the tallest part of the East Face of Dauntless Point.</text> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="80m" name="Dirty Equation" number="" stars="" id="138" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, 1997.">A disturbing climb with nauseating exposure. It has its fair share of loose rock at the scary bits. Start just below the L end of the cap roofs of the slab of Dauntless. To access, either climb the first pitch and a half of Dauntless OR abseil from the highest point of Dauntless Point (about 45m abseil - 30m of which is in free space). 1. 5m 16. Climb through the bulge forming the L end of the roof to belay on the face below the next overhang. 2. 40m 15. A convoluted pitch to pass the next roof overlap. Traverse R-wards until the roof finishes, then traverse back L above the roof to belay about 5m above the previous belay. 3. 15m 16. Climb up to the back of the next roof, then traverse L to the hanging arête (the technical and psychological crux). Climb the short hand crack up the arete to belay on ledge. 4. 20m. Easy. Move along the ledge to the R then climb up easy ground to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="105m" name="Dauntless" number="" stars="***" id="139" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jun 1994.">Another excellent adventure (wear a helmet). Although the rock on the slabs to the north of this climb is extremely poor, the rock on Dauntless is at worst adequate and at best brilliant. At the highest point of the Dauntless Point, the east facing slabby cliffs are capped by numerous big roofs. Abseil immediately before (i.e. to the north) the first of these down the edge of a very chossy slab for 50m. From here a second abseil can be made off the L edge of the slab into the corner and down to a significant ledge about 15m above the water. The rock takes on a different character from here. 1. 40m. Traverse L into the next mammoth corner then up the slab, tending L of the first roof to belay. 2. 20m. Traverse L along the horizontal to belay to the L the roof. 3. 35m. Up the face to another huge roof then traverse L across to a ledge on the L arête of the face. 4. 10m. Up easily to the top.</climb><text class="heading2" id="140">Mount Brown Main Face</text><text class="text" id="141">The main face of Mount Brown itself has seen little attention over the years, possibly due to every sane person on the planet being rightfully terrified of the thing. However, the addition of these high quality and mostly safe multi-pitch routes has started to change that.</text><text class="text" id="142">Approach via the walking track to the summit of Mt Brown. When approximately 50m from the trig station, head west towards Cape Raoul towards the highest point at the cliff edge and locate the abseil anchors on the edge of the cliff (either by using the GPS co-ords listed at the start of the guide, by looking for cairns, or the following description).</text><text class="text" id="143">Once near the edge of the cliff, locate the largest rocky area close to the edge, which is approximately above the highest point of the cliff. There are two distinct trees/bushes right on the edge of the cliff in the rocky area. The top bolts for IHIAB are on the L edge (facing out) of this rocky area, concealed under the L most small bush. It is hard to describe, but look for a cairn and you should find it. The top of TGB is about 25m to the R (facing out), where there is a thick tree 8m from the edge. You can fix a rope to this tree and use it to protect the scramble down to the top bolts, which are on a ledge just below a boulder at the top of the cliff.</text><text class="text" id="144">Be very careful at the edge of the cliff, because there are many loose rocks and the wind gusts can be quite strong. If you fall off the edge you will experience a rather unpleasant landing in the water.</text><image noPrint="false" src="mtbrownMainFace.jpg" width="" id="145"/><climb extra="(or 20A0)" grade="23/26" length="115m" name="Time Goes Bye" number="" stars="***" id="146" fa="Garry Phillips, Simon Young (in a team effort), April 2007.">The first route on the wall. Work was started on it many years prior, then it lay there waiting and begging to be climbed before it was eventually completed! GPS coords (listed at the start, code MBR050) will make finding the start easier. Otherwise, find the IHIAB raps, which are in horizontal rock at the top, and walk 25m along the cliff top then look behind a large boulder below there. 1a. 30m 23. From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay. 1b. 25m 23. From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above (mixed gear). 2. 15m 17. An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear. 3. 25m 22. Spicey moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2.5 cam for between 1st and 2nd bolt. 4a. 20m 20. From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, follow this and exit R at the top to the belay (mixed). Wires and small (finger tip sized) cams are useful in the corner. Gear to #1.5 friend. 4b. 20m 26. The right hand line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with fun moves near the top! Could be harder! 5. 30m 23. From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux to the top (fully bolted). Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 15 quickdraws, medium to large set of wires, #.05, #1, #1.5, #2, #2.5 & #3 cams. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb><climb extra="(or 22A0)" grade="24" length="210m" name="Talk is Cheap" number="" stars="***" id="147" fa="Garry Phillips and Simon Young, October 2008.">Another crazy route on the big wall of Mt Brown. This is the best and most sustained of the trio! This route requires mandatory free moves of grade 22 in order to get out. Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051). 1. 10m 14. From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. 2. 35m 24. One crazy pitch! Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. 3. 25m 22. Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. 4. 15m 16. Up slabs above to the chill out ledge. 5. 20m 20. Plug in a few cams (#2 & #1 Camalot) then blast up the wall to another stance. 6. 30m 24. Head up and R through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top. 7. 25m 22. Move R around the arête, up to #2 Camalot crack and then up the thin layback crack above. Have fun! 8. 20m 19. Continue up the corner above requires #1 & #.75 Camalots at the top. 9. 25m 17. Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge (#.5 Camalot if you want). 10. 10m 8. Scramble easily out as for IHIAB. Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb><text class="text" id="148">The start of I’ve Heard it All Before is best accessed with the use of three ropes, as the top 40m is best left fixed. Climb the rest of the route on double ropes. Descriptions are given if looking at the cliff (i.e. climbers left or right). From the top of the cliff locate the rap anchors with a GPS (MBR051) or description above. Now fix one of your ropes in hard and make a 10m rap to the ledge, from here re-belay at the next lot of anchors and rap a further 25m to the next ledge. From here thread the ropes and pull them for the rest of the route. The next rap is 40m from here to Deano’s ledge. From Deano’s ledge, rap off the bolts on the RH side of the ledge. Tension traverse R (using bolt high and R) after about 25m to reach the next anchors. Note: from Deano’s ledge DON’T RAP DOWN IHIAB as it’s epic and takes 5 times longer! From here rap easily down the slab to the large vegetated ledge (50m). From the ledge locate the anchors on the far RH side and rap down to the water. Rap this on a single rope and leave it fixed. If you pull them they will land in the ocean! Climb this bottom pitch on one rope.</text><climb extra="(or 20A0)" grade="23" length="225m" name="I've Heard It All Before" number="" stars="***" id="149" fa="Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins, November 2007.">A nice little day out that takes you from a ledge just above the water all the way to the top of the cliff. For full value go down when the swell is pumping a monster SW. It's nuts! Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051), or use description above. 1. 30m 12. From the ledge just above the sea follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above. 2. 15m 10. The face and slab above to the Botanical Gardens ledge. The route continues from the L end of the Botanical Gardens ledge. 3. 15m 18. Traverse L past the letterbox slot to the next ledge. (fully bolted). 4. 25m 19. Up corner to short slab, then follow triple cracks to the ledge on L. (take all your cams) 5. 20m 14. The fantastic juggy ramp under the big roofs, finishing at The Come Again Belay. Amazing! (fully bolted). 6. 25m 17. Head up ramp on the L then cut back R across the break to nice small ledge above the ocean. Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch! (fully bolted). 7. 15m 22. A bouldery pitch up the steep corner and flake system to Deano’s Ledge (fully bolted). 8. 40m 23. Step off L end of ledge and climb the awesome pocketed face to the nice hand crack, then on to the next ledge. 9. 25m 21. Up the crack, then break R to incut flake line and then move back L to slopey finish. A little intimidating! (fully bolted). 10. 10m 8. Scramble out easily with extreme care. Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, set of cams from finger tips to #3.5 friend with doubles around #1.5 Friend to #2.5 Friend. Screwgates for the belays. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="I've Heard It All Before Variants" number="" stars="**" id="150" fa="Simon Young, Garry Phillips">If the swell allows, either of these two pitches are a much more memorable way to start the route. They are accessed by rapping off a belay at the very R end of the Botanical Gardens ledge down a black groove to a hanging DBB about 2m above the water (though some days it may actually be 2m below the water...). Refer to the yellow lines on the topo. Both pitches share the second half and both are fully bolted. 1a. 30m 19. The LH line. 1b. 30m 20. The RH line. There are three more variant pitches that go up from the Botanical Gardens ledge to the right of the main route, which Garry has to write better descriptions for: 2a. 18, 3a. 18, 4a. 18.</climb><text id="209" class="heading3">Hidden Face</text><text id="210">The Hidden Face is a new face on the south eastern side of Mt Brown. The face receives very little sun, but remarkably stays quite dry. Access is via abseil and the only way out is up as it is cut off by sea in both directions. The access to the cliff top is a 10 min walk from the trig point (if you know where you are going).</text><climb id="211" name="No Contest" length="140m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="*" fa="Alex Lewis and Garry Phillips Oct 2010.">The first route up the Hidden Face and will more than likely be the exit and entry for the whole cliff. The route is fully bolted. Take 20 quick draws, double ropes and helmets are essential. 1a. 50m. Project. Alex and Garry’s Project finishing at the first belay. 1b. 50m 21. The right hand line. Done in one long pitch from the ground. Has everything from jugs to hand jams. 2. 35m 23. Continue up the line above, steep and pumpy. 3. 35m 22. From the big ledge, climb easily up to the roof, then turn it on. 4. 25m 18. Up to the top.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="151">Crescent Bay</text><text class="Discussion" id="152">Crescent Bay is the gorgeous sandy beach on the eastern side of the Mt Brown peninsula-ette. There is climbing to be done at the cliffs at either end of the beach on single pitch dolerite buttresses typical of the area. To get there, continue on the main walking track another 10 or 15 minutes past the turn off to the Paradiso to an intersection, where the track heads up to Mt Brown summit. Take the track E towards Crescent Bay. Alternatively (and quicker), park at the end of Dog Bark Road (turn off is 1 km before Remarkable Caves car park) and follow the track that will deposit you in the middle of Crescent Bay. Note than this approach passes through Dick Smith’s planned eco-tourist-resort site, so the availability of this option may change shortly.</text> <text class="heading3" id="153">South Veil Cliff</text> <text class="Discussion" id="154">The first climbs described here, at South Veil, are about 1 km SE from the south end of the Crescent Bay beach. To get there, walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs at the SW end of Crescent Beach, deviating into the scrub where necessary, but sticking to the shoreline where possible. You will eventually reach an impressive little inlet that houses the Veil Cliff. On the southern side of the Veil Cliff another cliff extends out of view – the aptly named South Veil cliff. Walk around the top of this, and then scramble onto the wide platform and abseil to the series of slabs and ledges at the base.</text> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Chicken Shute" number="" stars="" id="155" fa="Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002.">Several metres L of Southern Fury follow the crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think better of it and step R onto the ledge and finish up the L-facing corner slot.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Southern Fury" number="" stars="" id="156" fa="Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002.">Bridge and layback the R-facing corner then hand-jam the superb crack to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Northern Brewery" number="" stars="" id="157" fa="Dave James and Mark Allen, Jul 2002.">2m R of Southern Fury a short crack leads to the L end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and wall, then traverse R below orange slab groove to the arête and top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Excuse me while I kiss this guy" number="" stars="" id="158" fa="Ian Riley and Dave James, Jul 2002.">At a large short R-facing corner, flakes and delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the R and a further R-facing corner and fist crack. An easier start would be to step a couple of metres R, mantle then step back L.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="17m" name="Human Beans" number="" stars="" id="159" fa="Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002.">At the next ledge R of Excuse me while I kiss this guy, a R-facing corner leads to easier ground. Climb the twin cracks and corner, then continue to small R-facing corner and layback to top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Sentient Beans" number="" stars="" id="160" fa="Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002.">R of Human Beans, scramble to higher ledges then climb cracks to top of blunt arête.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="161">Veil Cliff</text> <text class="Discussion" id="162">Beyond the last point visible from Crescent Bay lies a concealed treasure. At the far E end of the crag one reaches a tiny promontory looking over the main cliffs. This promontory makes a corner that is Stonespell. The first two climbs have their own little ledge at sea level that is accessed by rapping down Stonespell.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="30m" name="Shegold" number="" stars="*" id="163" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jun 2002.">Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible from the promontory. From the spike just L of Stonespell, head up for a few metres to make an exciting traverse L. Follow the L-trending jug-trail to a grassy ledge and then press on to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Stonespell" number="" stars="" id="164" fa="Dave James, Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, Jun 2002.">The thought-provoking corner made by the promontory. You can't get lost.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="165">The following routes are accessed by rapping from the ledge system below and SE of the promontory.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="7m" name="Fathom" number="" stars="" id="166" fa="Tim Whelan, Dave James, 26 Jan 2002.">The thin hand crack immediately L of ASCJ.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="A Sister Called Jamaica" number="" stars="" id="167" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002">The arete at the left end of this small wall. Gear and holds found to the right of the arête.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="168">It is straightforward in reasonable swell conditions to traverse R around to another ledge and the following climbs.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="7m" name="Seagulp" number="" stars="" id="169" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.">L of Bob the Kelp Kelpie, two cracks lead to a rounded flake jug. Climb the L crack first, then the R at the flake.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Bob the Kelp Kelpie" number="" stars="" id="170" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002.">If you won't get wet feet, step off the kelp onto the wall then mantleshelf.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="171">Playstation</text> <text class="Discussion" id="172">Don't blink or you'll miss it! The Playstation is situated about 10 minutes walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs from the SW end of Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a world class climbing destination, The Playstation provides an alternative destination if the swell is up, or there is a cold southerly at the other Mt Brown cliffs. Descent is simplest by down climbing at the southern end of the "cliff". Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a very neat and clean L-facing corner some 4m tall, to the left of which is a short hand-crack. The following climbs are described left to right from the corner. From the L end of the Playstation wall, another clifflet rises from sea level with an obvious horizontal break called "Lets Get Horizontal".</text> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Tims Route" number="" stars="" id="173" fa="Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.">The L-facing corner at sea-level, which may or may not be splashed by the wet stuff.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Lets Get horizontal" number="" stars="" id="174" fa="Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002.">A fun traverse of the horizontal, beginning higher on the slabs and finishing at the L end of the Playstation wall.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="175">These routes start R of the blank and clean L-facing corner described above.</text> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="5m" name="Nintendo" number="" stars="" id="176" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">The short wide chimney and R-facing corner.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="5m" name="Souper Mario" number="" stars="" id="177" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">The crack system and overhanging block between Nintendo and Dreamcast.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="6m" name="Dreamcast" number="" stars="" id="178" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">The L-facing corner and hand crack immediately L of Gameboy.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Gameboy" number="" stars="" id="179" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba (TR), May 2001.">Beautiful climbing up the arête to the R.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Wet Wehbas Staircase" number="" stars="" id="180" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">3m R of Gameboy a short R-tending crack leads to the large and easy corner.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="181">Standup Point</text> <text class="Discussion" id="182">Standup Point is the rocky point south-east of the north end of Crescent Bay. The rock is pretty good; and the routes, while short, are generally very enjoyable. To get there, follow the shoreline from the end of the beach. At the first arch (you will know it when you see it), look for a track continuing to the point heading through the scrub (marked by a cairn.). Further along, you will pass a second arch, near which is a short wall with four distinctive cracks called (L-to-R): Double, Double, Toil, and Trouble. The point is not far past this; all up, about 20 minutes from the beach. Note: the Jackson family climbed here back in the early 90s and may have done some of the climbs listed here before (probably predominately top-roping), but no details were recorded.</text><climb id="206" stars="*" name="Ripley Holden" length="10m" grade="19" extra="DWS" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2006.">Corner crack on west side of box shaped zawn 5 minutes from Crescent Bay.</climb><climb id="207" name="Blackpool" stars="**" length="15m" grade="22" extra="DWS" fa="Ken Palmer Dec 2006.">The high square arête to the right.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="183">This mini-route is on the first ‘decent-sized’ wall closest to Crescent Bay, which faces E. It can be seen clearly from a vantage point opposite. Scramble down the easy ramp to get to the base (if you are inspired to climb it, that is).</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="7m" name="Lemon Ruski" number="" stars="" id="184" fa="Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.">The gritty and awkward hand crack.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="185">The following routes are on the most extensive buttress in the area, right at the tip of the point. To access the spacious ledge at the base, look for a scungy, slippery, and easy-angled corner and slide down this (taking care not to land in the water). A saner, more pleasant option is to abseil in. A good landmark for identifying routes is Free-Range, a fairly distinctive face at the L end of a small cirque of cute routes. About 25m R of this is a small, square cave, which is also a good landmark. </text> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="7m" name="Fuzzy Logic" number="" stars="" id="186" fa="Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002.">10m L of and around the corner from Free-Range. The perpetually wet and impotently short hand-crack.</climb><climb extra="" grade="8" length="10m" name="Ascentionists Anonymous" number="" stars="" id="187" fa="Jul 2008.">The slabby corner is not really worth risking your life over to solo it, but it is actually pleasant enough beginner’s lead.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Digital Vertigo" number="" stars="" id="188" fa="Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008.">The finger crack just L of Free-Range may be short, but it's pretty spicy. Climb the crack to the ledge, then hop up the square corner directly above.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Free-Range" number="" stars="" id="189" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.">Climb the cool chicken-heads to the ledge, then step R to the short hand crack and up to the top. Unusual rock with some very nice, committing climbing.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Udopian" number="" stars="" id="190" fa="Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002.">Just a few metres R of Free-Range. Jam and stem the V-slot-chimney-hand-crack-thing.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Rocquette Science" number="" stars="" id="191" fa="Dave James and Dean Rollins, Aug 2008.">Up the shallow dihedral (or use flake on the R), then step L to slopey stance and motor up the pocketed head wall. Good climbing that is well protected by small to mid sized cams.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="192">The cliff breaks down for a bit now, but never fear, climbable rock soon returns. The next routes start on a slightly elevated terrace at the far R end of the cliff, which is gained with a tiny scramble.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="14m" name="Parachute Girl" number="" stars="" id="193" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.">Start at the featured off-width 5m L of the square cave. A slightly committing start leads to a welcome rest. Continue up the steep hand-crack in the corner.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Know Your Chicken" number="" stars="" id="194" fa="Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008.">The line starting at the L side of the square cave, with an interesting crux section up the fused-slot-thing at the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m" name="Black Russian" number="" stars="" id="195" fa="Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002.">R of the square cave. After a tricky start, follow the line to the top.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="196">The ledge at the base of the cliff terminates for a while, and the cliffs runs straight into the water. This provides an nice opportunity to flex one’s deep-water-soloing muscles.</text> <climb extra="DWS" grade="22" length="10m" name="Hippy Chicks In The Styx" number="" stars="**" id="197" fa="Nick Hancock, Apr 2003.">The face and blunt arête.</climb> <climb extra="DWS" grade="22" length="15m" name="Blow Me Zoe" number="" stars="*" id="198" fa="Mike Robertson, Apr 2003.">The blunt arête to the R of Hippy Chicks.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="199">The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m further north (towards Port Arthur) and are approached by abseil. The rock is generally not as good, but it has its moments.</text> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Axis of Weevil" number="" stars="" id="200" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.">2m L of Enemy of the Steak, climb to a grass tussock and continue up the clean laser-cut corner to the L.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Enemy of the Steak" number="" stars="" id="201" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002.">The open-featured corner L of Smart Bong.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Smart Bong" number="" stars="" id="202" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.">Layback and bridge the two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall.</climb><climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Gravy Seals" number="" stars="" id="203" fa="Dave James and Dean Rollins, Sep 2008.">Further R, start at featured wall below L end of ledge above. Up past hueco to ledge, then take rib on R to top. Spaced protection, and a shrub belay.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m" name="Suicide Plumber" number="" stars="" id="204" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002.">This route starts on the next ledge system down, below the manky roof up high. Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner.</climb> </guide> |