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<guide><text class="heading1" id="1">The Gorge</text><text class="intro" id="2">There are quite a few good problems in the Gorge at Launceston. Gerry Narkowicz recently identified around sixty problems that start straight off the tourist track on the shady side of the Gorge. The problems described here are based on the list in the back of the Cataract guide. On the other side of the river less than a minute along the zig zag track on the sunny side of the gorge there is a semi circular group of boulders. There are around half a dozen vertical and traverse problems here.</text><text class="heading2" id="3">The Sunny Side</text><text class="access" id="4">From Kings Bridge walk up the start of the zig zag track for 1 minute to a semi circular group of boulders.</text><image src="The Gorgesunny1.jpg" id="5"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="6">Far left arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="7">Corner between aretes</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="8">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5?" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="9">Traverse right around the group of boulders, from left to right</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="10">Up face</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="6." stars=" " id="11">Face left of gap</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="7." stars=" " id="12">Face right of gap - don't use crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="8." stars=" " id="13">Face</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="9." stars=" " id="14">Face right of conifer</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="10." stars=" " id="15">Right arete</problem><text class="heading2" id="16">The Shady Side</text><text class="access" id="17">From Kings Bridge walk along the tourist track. The areas are grouped by the light posts they are near. Each light post is marked with a number such as "LP 5". Problems are described right to left as you come to them.</text><text class="heading3" id="18">LP 5</text><image src="The Gorgelp5.jpg" id="19"/><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="20">Wall right of LP5</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="21">From holds left of LP5 go up and left to flat hold.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="22">Arete to stand on head high hold</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4." stars="*" id="23">Sitstart on underclings and traverse left to wide crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="24">Continue traversing across thin wall to next crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="6." stars=" " id="25">From the next arete to the left traverse leftwards to ledge</problem><text class="heading3" id="26">Heckle Area</text><text class="access" id="27">About 30m down the track is a little roof with an offwidth to the right. This is the Heckle area.</text><image src="The Gorgeheckle.jpg" id="28"/><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="29">From offwidth traverse rightwards across face to corner.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="30">Pull up on jug on arete to stand on jug, don't use crack</problem><problem id="99" stars="**" number="2b." name="Back Talk" grade="V8" extra="(SDS)">From left hand jug and right hand small edge in roof, stick a heel on and squeeze across the lip to the jug. Finish standing on this (as per the V3). The good hold up and left from the sitstart is not part of the problem.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Heckle Traverse" number="3." stars="*" id="31">Start 4m left of the arete on good edges. Traverse rightwards around the arete to the crack and finish as for number 1.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="32">From holds 2m left of the arete climb up seam to high jug</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="33">From the holds at the start of the Heckle Traverse, go left past corner to another blank corner</problem><text class="heading3" id="34">LP 9</text><image src="The Gorgelp9-1.jpg" id="35"/><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="36">From ledge left of arete traverse rightwards to arete and across face</problem><image src="The Gorgelp9-2.jpg" id="37"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="38">Up face to sloper</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="39">Up arete without using crack</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2/3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="40">Traverse leftward from one arete to the next</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="41">Blank corner to the left, near LP 10. Climb until "you get too scared".</problem><text class="heading3" id="42">LP 12</text><image src="The Gorgelp12.jpg" id="43"/><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="44">Rising hand traverse near LP 12</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="45">Arete near LP 12 without using crack</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="46">Up overhanging face without using big holds to the left</problem><text class="heading3" id="47">LP 14</text><problem extra=" " grade="V4/5" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="48">Sloping traverse from right arete to corner near LP14</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="49">Traverse rightwards from LP15 to corner</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="50">Climb around detached boulder near LP16</problem><text id="101" class="heading3">LP 16 - Lone Pillar</text><image id="118" src="gorgepillar.jpg"/><problem id="102" number="1." name="Project" extra="(SDS)">The pillar looks like a good problem, from sitting.</problem><text class="heading3" id="51">LP 17</text><image src="The Gorgelp17.jpg" id="52"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="53">Short arete to the left of LP17</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="54">5m to the left, climb face off park bench</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="55">Right hand start to arete</problem><problem extra="(Highball)" grade="V3/4" name="Henry Barber's Arete" number="4." stars=" " id="56">Only use the arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="57">Layback up left side of arete</problem><text class="heading3" id="58">LP 23</text><image src="The Gorgelp23.jpg" id="59"/><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="60">Face and mantle right of LP23</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="61">Traverse rightward along slopes</problem><text class="heading3" id="62">LP 25</text><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="63">Arete left of LP25</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2/3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="64">Slab with hole at the bottom</problem><text class="heading3" id="65">LP 27</text><image src="The Gorgelp27.jpg" id="66"/><problem extra="(Highball)" grade="V1/2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="67">Layback wide crack right of LP 27</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="68">Span between crack and arete</problem><text class="heading3" id="69">LP 28</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="70">Arete and face right of LP28</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="71">Traverse into blank corner left of LP28 from underclings 2m to the right of corner</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="72">From arete left of corner traverse left 4m</problem><text class="heading3" id="73">Double Dozen</text><text class="access" id="74">Double Dozen is the prominent finger crack in the buttress behind the next lookout.</text><image src="The Gorgedoubledozen.jpg" id="75"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="Double Dozen" number="1." stars=" " id="76">Climb the start of Double Dozen to the ledge</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="77">Traverse leftwards from the start of Double Dozen to the corner, without using the ledge</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4/5" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="78">Climb the face left of Double Dozen to the ledge, don't use the edge on DD</problem><text class="access" id="79">The left hand side of the Double Dozen buttress.</text><image src="The Gorgedoubledozen2.jpg" id="80"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="81">Traverse left from crack to arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V7/8" name=" Double Jump " number="2." stars="**" id="82">Start on the large jug on the arete about 2.2m above the ground and huck for the rail up and left. Finish on the large undercling directly above the start hold.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name=" Double Does It " number="3." stars="**" id="83">Sit start with a small right hand sidepull crimp just left of the blunt arete and left hand on a small gaston crimp just above a right facing slopy rail. Climb straight up via some large span moves to a bad right hand pinch and then exit out right to the rail. Traverse this to finish as Double Jump.</problem><text class="heading3" id="84">LP 34</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="85">Low traverse from left to right 8m past LP 34, finish on ledge near stump</problem><text class="heading3" id="86">LP 36 - Right Boulder</text><text id="113">There are a few freestanding boulders at LP36. Most of the problems could use a brush. Described from right to left.</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="87">Start in cave at sharp edge, finish on top of boulder</problem><problem id="104" number="2." name="" grade="V?">Mantel the slopey left side. Needs a clean!</problem><text id="105" class="heading3">LP36 - Protruding Boulder</text><image id="116" src="gorgeprotruding1.jpg"/><problem id="106" name="" number="1." grade="V?">Climb up the tall wall above a block.
</problem><problem id="107" grade="V?" number="2.">From the support block, reach a sloper and jump to the top. Looks easy but gutsy as the landing drops away.
</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="89">Mantle onto the boulder overhanging the path</problem><problem id="109" number="4." grade="V?">Sitstart the obvious jug and traverse right to gain and mantel the nose.
</problem><image id="117" src="gorgeprotruding2.jpg"/><problem id="110" name="" grade="V?" number="5.">From the obvious jug, pull up the slopey side of the boulder.
</problem><problem id="111" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="6." name="Lock Lively">Sitstart at the good edge on the lip, with a foot on the slab to the right. Pull up to a good sidepull and the top.</problem><text id="112" class="heading3">LP37 - Overhanging Face</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10/11" name=" Project" number="4." stars="***" id="90">THE boulder problem in the Gorge. Directly behind LP 37 is an obvious overhanging face. Sit start with right hand low on a right facing rail and left hand on a dimpled sloper under the arete. Thug your way through crompression moves with horrible feet straight up to mantle. Avoiding the first move by starting with your right hand up on the lowest good edge is about V9 and quite good, but the full problem really should start lower</problem><text id="114" class="heading3">LP43 - Undercut Bulge</text><image id="119" src="gorgebulge.jpg"/><problem id="115" number="1," name="Project">Tackle the undercut bulge, with a tricky top. Top needs a clean. V6? A sitter from the break, via the big sidepull should be possible. V8?
</problem><text class="heading2" id="91">Duck Reach</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="92">There are quite a few nice sculpted boulders in the river bed both upstream and downstream from Duck Reach. The boulders just near Flooded Rocks are quite good. There is probably a lot that has been climbed on here, but equally there are a lot of nice looking boulders that need a good scrub.</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="93">This nice steep boulder is down at the river below Seize the Day:</text><image new="false" number="null." src="duckreach1.jpg" width="" id="94">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="**" id="95">Nice steep line starting on left side of boulder.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="96"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="97">Up steep prow.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="98">Right hand side of boulder.</problem></guide>
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