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<guide guidestars='*' ><text class="heading1">Rocky Tom</text><text class="intro">Access to Rocky Tom requires a 10 minute drive and a half hour walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane etc.), turn right toward Flagstaff Gulley and park 4km further on at the Flagstaff Gulley Reserve (below the water reservoir, near the first locked gate). Note that the gates are locked after hours so it is advisable to park below the first of the two gates. From the parking area follow the road for a couple of kilometres until you reach the Emoleum quarry, keep following the road until it stops at the quarry proper. Head left downhill here following a well defined fire trail. Follow this trail down across a dry creek and then uphill for 10-15 minutes until you reach the first buttresses at the top of the hill (see Craglets). The boulders are below the Castle Walls area (the cliff facing toward Risdon Vale) about 50 metres or so.</text><text class="access">The Ark is 50m or so down and right from the base of Lone Tower. It faces down the hill and can be hard to find. Best accessed from The Menagerie boulder as it is more prominent when approached from downhill. </text><text class="heading2">The Ark Front </text><image src="Rocky TomArk-Front.jpg"></image><problem extra=" " grade="V6" name=" " number="1." stars=" ">L-R traverse along lip to finish up 4 or 6.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" ">Sit start on slopers below large jug at chest height. Up to jug and up onto slab.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Sit start on two handed edge. Up past slopers to good hold over lip. Pull onto slab.</problem><text class="heading2">The Ark Side</text><image src="Rocky TomArk-Side.jpg"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Vampiros Lesbos" number="4." stars="*">Sit start 3m right of 3 on small edges. Up to good holds at head height. Dyno for lip then pull onto slab and into groove.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="5." stars=" ">Start as for 4, move right on small holds, dyno for lip, mantle onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Victory in Thebes" number="6." stars="*">Start 2m right and down from 4 on lip of low overhang. Up past small holds to better holds then right and up to finish on slab.</problem><text class="heading2">The Menagerie Front </text><text class="text">The Menagerie boulder is directly below Excalibur buttress 100 metres or so and is clearly visible from this area. Many eliminates / variants exist on this boulder so only the main problems have been documented.</text><image src="Rocky TomMenagerie-Front.jpg"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Achey Breaky Flakey" number="1." stars=" ">Start as for 2, move left onto loose flake, dyno for lip.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="Orang-Utan" number="2." stars="**">Undercling to large slot then straight up and onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Straight up on small holds to finish right of 2. No holds on 2.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6/7" name="Jack Jumper Arete" number="4." stars="***">Arete behind tree from sitting start to hard mantle. One of the best problems at the grade in Hobart. A grade or two easier if you pike and move right to top out.</problem><text class="heading2">The Menagerie Side </text><image src="Rocky TomMenagerie-Side.jpg"></image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars="*">Sit start with feet on hanging pedestal. Pull up for small edges dyno for good holds and pull onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Rhinocerous" number="6." stars="**">Start as for 5. Traverse right to incut edges, up to large slot then up onto slab (ie. finish as for 7). Many variants / eliminates exist.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="7." stars=" ">Sit start under small cave on good holds. Straight up to slot via good holds. Mantle onto slab.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Virgin Buster" number="8." stars="*">Start as for 5/6. Move left and around arete to finish as for 3. Crux is past arete.</problem><text class="heading2">Seams Roof </text><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="1." stars=" ">Start on huge hold at rear left of roof. Climb out to lip then right past holds on Seams Direct (climb) to large jug. Move down and right to finish on Slavery (climb)</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" ">The reverse of 1. Starting form Slavery (climb). Quite different to 1.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">Start on holds just right of 1. Move right then straight out to lip along thin crack. Jump off or finish as for 1.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="4." stars=" ">Start as for 3. Traverse right at a lower level than 1 past underclings to small holds. Dyno to large jug on 1 to finish.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="5." stars=" ">Start on undercling at rear of roof. Move out to small holds to finish as for 4. Keep feet well of the cave floor on problems 4 and 5. They should be on the white rock.</problem></guide> |