<guide version="3"><header access="The property at Bare Rock at Fingal is owned by climbers Andrew Martin and his partner Alannah. Andrew writes (July 2011): 1) Of paramount importance is the realization that the road up to Bare Rock is not council maintained, and in fact is paid for and maintained by the three private property owners (myself included). The other two have therefore asked that any climbers please drive slowly as this seems to really irritate them (the road gets chewed up very easily, as well as noise etc). Yes you arrive 1 minute later, but recent “Schumacher wannabes” have made some of the neighbours contemplate the need to allow further access. PLEASE drive slowly on the dirt road section. 2) A call prior to coming is ESSENTIAL. Please simply call me (or text) on 0418883418, each time that you intend on climbing here. The neighbours keep an eye out on my place due to prior a burglary. If I know you are coming, I can simply inform them of this fact, so they know not to come up and check on who the un-announced person is. 3) Although we would prefer that people go up the side boundary fence (as opposed to the main drive), this is quite often impossible due to the wet nature of the track. When driving up the main drive, please maintain “turtle speed”. Once past the house, you are more than welcome to park past the double shed at the right hand end of the car turning circle. There is room for at least 4 cars. Please don’t park on the turning circle, as the neighbours use this frequently. 4)The cliff is closed from AUGUST through to early DECEMBER, there is no room for negotiation here. Peregrine Falcon nesting occurs all over the cliff, as well as at least one pair of Wedge Tail Eagles in the immediate area. Part of the attraction of climbing at this cliff is the untamed beauty of the area, which I wish to maintain, partly through the protection of these magnificent birds. To get to the cliff, take the third RH turn, Legge Street, upon entering the town from the west and drive south towards the cliff (take my word for it, you can't miss it), turn L into Sorell Street, past several intersections. Continue straight ahead along a track heading towards the cliff to a locked gate (2.2 km from main road) with a sign reading "Private Property". The track turns sharply L, past a rough sign for "Alebert" Street, descends past an old wooden shed then gains an old rocky road leading up R to a small hill. Take the RH track, past another gate, giving access to a paddock. Cross the paddock to a gate, passing a sign to Bare Rock on the way. Follow a rough road R just over its crest which leads to within 100 metres of the cliff face." acknowledgement="Original guide by Jon Tiller (thanks to Bob McMahon and Simon Parsons), first published in Craglets." history="" intro=""It was not as if the black cliff at Fingal ever needed discovering. Perched up there in the paddocks behind the town, the black cliff streaked with orange is so obvious from the highway that I don't suppose anyone even notices it. The townspeople call it Bare Rock but I suspect the name is simply descriptive, like 'high mountain' or 'rough road'. Apart from the fact that it is there, I doubt whether it has much more significance for them." (Bob McMahon, Peaks 3).<br/>You cannot really miss Fingal Cliff, no matter which direction you come from, it's a huge 200 metre monolith of rock that jumps out and grabs you by the throat. Yes, it is dolerite but it has a unique structure which offers few natural lines and creates an incredible atmosphere for climbing. Even though Fingal Valley has a relatively high rainfall which makes the rock wet and greasy the faces dry very quickly, though the seepage lines remain wet for a long time. Also the climbing is of a serious nature due to patches of loose rock (helmets essential); height and exposure all contribute to its atmosphere. There is only a handful of routes to date (which take all if not most of the natural lines), but potential for 200m face climbs exist - The Sapphire Rose, Bisso of Orange and Finn Crisp being an indication of what might be possible.<br/>There are some questions about the grade of some of the climbs at Fingal, in these cases I have used the highest of the grades given to me. Reasons being that it is a serious cliff and this is reflected in the climbs. So if you find them easy or hard, too bad, that is the nature of climbing. Small quadcams, wires and RP's are very useful at this cliff and double ropes are essential. And remember, when it's hot on this cliff, you can get fried to a crisp!" name="Bare Rock" rock="200m slabby dolerite. Mostly trad with a couple of sport routes." sun="All day sun" walk="10 min" id="1"/><text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: The abseil route down joins Sapphire Rose and takes the steepest and longest part of the cliff. The line is sensational and not to be missed. The first abseil (about 60m to the L of the top of MacDonagh as you are looking at the cliff) requires that you rap off a tree (festooned with tape) for about 30m to the first chain. Three more raps lead to the bottom. Alternatively one can walk off easily via a taped and cairned track down the LH (east) side. A steep and loose descent gully can also be used on the far R of the cliff if you must. Take the second gully on the R as you are walking along the top.</text><text id="25" class="heading3">Bare Rock Left</text><image noPrint="false" src="bareRockLeft2.jpg" width="" id="3"/><climb extra="" grade="16" length="160m" name="Fagus" number="1." stars="" id="4" fa="R.Schmidt, J.Butler, 1976.">This climb follows the line of the chimney on the far LH end of the cliff, beyond the McCavity/Batten chimney. Climb up the face just L of the start of Boneyard to about the second belay of Boneyard and climb the chimney.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="177m" name="McCavity-Batten Memorial Route" number="2." stars="" id="5" fa="R. McMahon, R, Staszewski, 1979 (Alt).">This route takes the line always confused with Faggus. Climb the first and second pitches as for Boneyard, but on the second pitch, instead of moving R up the ledge, go straight up from the belay - a delightful dolerite slab (17). The third pitch is a bold, sustained 50m pitch through a bulge of fairly loose rock in places and tight bridging in a huge chimney (17). The last pitch typically worthless.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="240m" name="Boneyard" number="3." stars="" id="6" fa="R.McMahon, M.McHugh, P.Jackson (alt.), 1969.">A long and wandering route with much loose rock. An interesting experience! Start: Along the LH end of the cliff, a mossy nose of rock is the first pitch. 1. 37m. Climb the nose to a small ledge. 2. 40m. Move up and over onto easier angled rock. Move R along a ledge for a metre then climb the slab above to belay on a large ledge beneath a huge chimney line splitting the upper bulging yellow head wall (McCavity - Batten route). 3. 30m. Move across R delicately, then scramble to below a corner leading up to the obvious diagonal line below the head wall. 4. 37m. Ascend the crack to belay on the ledge constituting the diagonal line. 5. 46m. Scramble along out R along the line until the ramp narrows. Move delicately across (crux) to belay beside a large block. 6. 50m. Move up and over block and continue up the obvious L slanting line to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="178m" name="Fionn McCool" number="4." stars="*" id="7" fa="R.McMahon, M.McHugh (alt.), 1971.">Pitches 1 and 3 are excellent but the others are fairly ordinary. Start in the centre of the cliff in a shallow chimney below the subtle leftward leaning line that the routes follows. 1. 48m 19. Climb the chimney and bridge over the bulge (crux). Delicate face climbing above leads to the base of a wide, dirty corner. Up the corner to belay on a small grassy ledge. Note: On the first ascent the bulge was passed on the L up a flake before stepping R into the crack. This flake is no longer present, making this pitch the crux of the climb. 2. 40m 15. Climb the L side of the groove and move L to below the corner that a huge detached flake forms on its RH side with the wall. Move up the corner and belay on top of the flake. 3. 40m 17. Follow the diagonal crack out L in an incredible position past a junction with another crack running at right angles. (These form an "X " visible from the ground high on the face.) Continue on up the main crack, make a move L over a steep wall (17) and then climb on around the nose, finishing easily straight up to a large ledge. 4&5. 50m 9. From the R side of the ledge follow the easy but loose line out to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="A2+" length="95m" name="Little Pinocchio" number="5." stars="" id="8" fa="M.Perchard, J.Clarke, 1998.">An interesting excursion up the blank face to the R of Fionn McCool and about 20m L of The Sapphire Rose. An intimidating bolting dilemma on lead, but a pleasant enough second now, though don't overestimate the soundness of the rock nor the potential for good air time. 1. 25m. Climb the pedestal. 2. 35m. Blast straight up the blank wall to the leftward rising crack-line.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="185m" name="Bisso of Orange" number="6." stars="***" id="9" fa="Marc Tierney, Michael Fox, Kim Robinson, Feb 2006.">Between Fionn McCool and Sapphire Rose is a line of BRs that breaches the headwall at the top. The establishment of this route involved hardwork from several parties over a number of years. The route is fully bolted so it’s really a case of follow your nose and belay at the double bolts. Excellent sustained climbing on reasonable rock (some loose holds). 1. 25m 16. six BRs. 2. 30m 22. ten BRs. 3. 30m 22. ten BRs. 4. 35m 22. twelve BRs. 5. 25m 26. ten BRs (maybe 22,M1). 6. 35m 21. twelve BRs.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="95m" name="The Sapphire Rose" number="7." stars="***" id="10" fa="S.Edwards, S.Eberhard, 1994.">A classic modern route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, between Finn McCool and Finn Crisp. Rack: seventeen quick-draws and two ropes. 1. 35m 22. Sixteen bolts and chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L of a raising right diagonal. Traverse spectacularly R to belay on a small ledge. (sustained). 2. 15m 21. Five bolts and chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the diagonal lies to the ledge and chain belay. 3. 28m 21. Ten bolts and chain. Climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="270m" name="Padraic Pearse" number="8." stars="*" id="11" fa="R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980 (alt).">Climb the front face of the ramp and from the top climb up overhanging leftwards corner. When they finish, climb through the overlap (crux) and up face to the R, joining Finn Crisp on the large ledge with a tree. Continue up Finn Crisp to pass the head-wall.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="200m" name="Finn Crisp" number="9." stars="**" id="12" fa="J.Friend, W.Stevens, 1976.">Starts at the huge grassy, R- leading ramp. May not as of yet had a second ascent in its entirety. Scramble up the ramp and from the top move up and R on the face. Follows the lichen streaked nose of rock up the blank face left of MacDonagh.</climb><text id="26" class="heading3">Bare Rock Right</text><image noPrint="false" src="bareRockRight2.jpg" width="" id="13"/><climb extra="" grade="17" length="199m" name="MacDonagh" number="10." stars="***" id="14" fa="R.McMahon and P.Jackson, 1969. 1b) R.McMahon and E. Mallinson. ">A fine route following the crack line L of the massive roof on the cliff's RH end. It has three variant starts on the lichenous pillar below the line of the climb (L, middle and R) with the LH one the best. 1. 58m 12. At the bottom of the gully on the L side of the pillar, start to the R behind the trees where a subsiduary slab meets the face and climb the excellent crack/corner. At the top of the crack, traverse a metre or so R and climb the wall to belay. 2. 37m 16. From the L side of the top of the pillar move up the R side of a 3m high block, then step down L into the crack. Follow the crack to belay where it narrows. 3. 37m 12. Up the fantastic crack in a shallow corner to below the roofs. Move R to where a crack splits the overhang at its narrowest and belay. 4. 30m 17. Up and around the overhang on jams (crux) and continue up the side of the very large flake to belay on its top. 5. 37m 12. Move a metre L then up the slab to the top. A fine pitch, unusual for dolerite. Finish up easy but loose ground above. (Editor's note: there's a lot of poxy old choss heaps in the state which get described as "fine routes"; this is, however, a genuinely pleasant and interesting climb).</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="85m" name="MacDonagh Variant Finish" number="11." stars="" id="15" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Gerry Narkowicz, 1983.">1. 40m. From the top of pitch 3 climb the corner and ramp up L 2. 45m. Move R up bulge (no pro), and finish up last pitch of Finn Crisp.</climb><climb extra="" grade="A2+" length="140m" name="Hardly Worth the Effort" number="" stars="" id="16" fa="G.Phillips, S.Harper, May 1997.">1. As for MacDonagh to "obvious" ledge. 2. Crank free straight out of belay up slab to "obvious" ledge under roof. Aid and free climb onto the ledge. Aid up to carrot. Aid through crack (two fixed wires). Bat hook past second carrot up the crack in the slab. 3. Do a massive traverse rightwards to climb behind the arête. Free climb rightwards under roof until triple carrot (?) belay. 4. Aid out L through roof crack. Traverse rightwards until double bolt belay. Rack: Double sets of cams and wires, assorted pins (mostly knife blades), two hooks. Three double rope abseils reach back to the ground. In his write up for the CCT Garry said the route was "Hardly worth the effort"; he might be wrong (if you can follow his route description!). The route name was not supplied so the one above is interim.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="180m" name="Conan MacMorna" number="12." stars="*" id="17" fa="R.McMahon, B.Maddison, 1980.">Starts: Two thirds of the way up the R side of the mossy pillar. 1. Climb up the R side of mossy pillar (dirty). At two-thirds height belay on a block at the same level as the traverse. 2. Hand traverse R to base of a rising diagonal crack. This is a fine traverse in the same league as the one on Skink, Mt Arapiles. 3. Follow the rising diagonal that cuts back a little L to the base of a black leftward leaning corner. There is a direct variant third pitch called Red Sonja, see below. 4. Climb the L facing corner (which curves leftwards into a roof after about 10m), turn the roof at the top (crux), move slightly R on the orange face and then boldly straight up the orange face to a belay under the big roof. 5. Traverse out R on the face under great roof (easy but great fun).</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Red Sonja" number="13." stars="" id="18" fa="Sam Edwards, Jon Tiller, 1994.">A direct 3rd pitch of Conan McMorna. From the belay after the second pitch of Conan McMorna climb straight up the crack, on the L side of the orange triangle of rock. At the top of the crack, move L to a flake and then straight up. Walk along the ledge to join Conan McMorna. at the start of the 4th pitch. This is a much better alternative to pitch 3 of Conan McMorna.</climb><climb id="28" name="Tomorrow's Dream" length="100m" grade="19" stars="**" number="14." fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin, Oct 2010." extra="Þ">More or less a direct line up the face to the big roof and bisecting Conan Macmorna at one stage. Start 20m right of Conan Macmorna. 1. 30m 16. Delightful climbing up the black slab to a narrow ledge, then traverse right for 5m to the next line of bolts up a steeper slab to double bolt belay at apex of orange triangle of rock. 12 bolts. 2. 25m 17. Climb the big diagonal of Conan Macmorna to the right for 15m with trad gear, to point opposite bolt on left face . Traverse left spectacularly via 2 bolts on small rail to middle of face, then straight up to belay at chains on big ledge. 2 bolts plus cams size 1-4 and long slings. 3. 45m 19. Move belay 5m right to another double bolt belay. Lovely face moves up the next black face for 4 bolts, followed by a 10m section of mank up to the base of the amazing orange headwall. Superb face climbing (crux) up the orange wall on Arapiles like rock, to belay at chains on ledge below big roof. 13 bolts. Either rap from here (two raps to ground with double 60m ropes) or continue up to Supernaut (see below). Gear: 16 draws required, cams 1-4, double 60m ropes. 20 draws if doing Supernaut.</climb><climb id="29" stars="***" name="Fairies Wear Boots" length="45m" grade="27" fa="Ingvar Lidman, Jan 2011." extra="Þ">The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at base of right trending hanging corner. Go left across the severely overhanging face (crux) out to the arete in an outrageous position of exposure. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts (about grade 21). Gear required 20 draws</climb><climb id="30" name="Into the Void" length="45m" grade="25" fa="Gerry Narkowicz Feb 2011." stars="***" extra="Þ">Up first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots to stance at hanging corner. Up corner to right with a tricky move (23) then straight up wall with superb face climbing to join Supernaut. Continue up the last 8 bolts of Supernaut. Access via Tomorrows Dream. 20 bolts</climb><climb id="27" name="Supernaut " length="45m" grade="24" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, 3 July 2010." stars="***" extra="16Þ"> The magnificent orange and black face up R of the big roof on the far RH side of the cliff. Access via Tomorrow's Dream. From the chains at the top of the 3rd pitch of Tomorrow's Dream, traverse right along narrow ledge with 2 bolts to tree, then up easy slab to double bolt belay (about 20m). The start of the route is 10m higher up to the right. Step off the slab and scramble up to point opposite the climb and belay on flat stance where there is a single belay bolt. Up the overhanging seam for 3 bolts (crux) then a rising traverse on superb orange rock out towards the arête (this section about grade 23). Climb just R of the arête (great exposure) for a sustained section of grade 21 face climbing for 20m to the top. 16 bolts. Descent: 4 raps from the top with chains, first to ledge below Supernaut, then reverse narrow ledge section to chains above Tomorrows Dream. Double 60m ropes required.</climb><text class="heading3" id="19">New Horizons Buttress</text><text class="text" id="20">A small buttress on the hillside to the east of Bare Rock. Scrub bash across the valley from the bottom of the main crag to the small buttress near the top of the hill.</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Froot Loops" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Marc Tierny, Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, 5 Jun 1984.">Corner on L of cliff.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="White Death" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="Robert McMahon, Gerry Narkowicz, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.">Hand crack to the R.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Black Leather Barbarian" number="" stars="" id="23" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.">Narrow black face.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="New Horizons" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Robert McMahon, Marc Tierny, 5 Jun 1984.">Steep corner on R.</climb></guide> |