<guide version="3">
  <header access="From the Organ Pipes Track, head up the scree and track to a short wall below the RH end of the ramp. Scramble up this to reach the ramp proper.&lt;br/&gt;Descent: There are two rap routes on the Tier that provide return access to the ramp. One (2 x 45m) descends Blue Meridian. Another (1 x 58m) descends Suicide Sadness and provides descent for routes at the LH end of the tier. Be mindful of this descent if you are using double 50m ropes – it is 58m long but it is possible to down-climb the final bit with care to the ramp." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="R of Step Tier there is a big wall split by a very long chimney-corner, to the R, and a group of three cracks. This is Great Tier. At its base, a big ramp trends L underneath the three lines and ends below the chimney-corner (Nefertiti). Most routes, with few exceptions, begin from this ramp." name="Great Tier" rock="Broken dolerite cracks and faces up to 100m" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min" id="1"/>
  <image src="Great TierPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2">
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  </image>
  <text class="heading3" id="22">Zoloft Wall
  </text>
  <image src="Zoloft.jpg" width="300" id="23">
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  </image>
  <text class="text" id="24">Zoloft Wall is found at the top of the cliffs between Explorer (Step Tier) and Melancholy Mania (Great Tier), and is best approached from Mt Wellington summit. Locating the climbs from the top is not easy, but it's worth it. Head towards Upper Teardrop Gully and continue down the ridge from near the top of Ano's Sojourn, deviating to the LH (river) side where necessary. Alternatively, come across from the south side of the Arena. After a bit of scrambling and downclimbing you will emerge near the top of Sheeza and other routes at the RH end of Upper Teardrop Gully. Rap in (tape abseil) just east of here.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name="Static Journey" number="" stars="**" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2000.">
    Best done on a warm summer's day. Abseil in 50m to the start of the climb, 3m R of Explorer. Climb the corner on the R for 8m to a ledge (where Zoloft starts). Up the crack on the L (also used by Zoloft) for 14m to a large sloping ledge. Move L around the corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the thin line up the face to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Choc-o-Block" number="CB" stars="" id="27" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">
    The wide crack system just R of Static Journey. Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Journey/Zoloft. Climb to the top of the crack and move L to the offwidth with chockstones.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Zoloft" number="ZO" stars="**" id="26" fa="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 1999.">
    Excellent exposure towards the top. Varied climbing on the face and cracks L of the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania. Access by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of line. Climb the finger crack/face off the L of the initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the L of the hanging nose/arête until one can move R into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep section following hand cracks up the middle R of the hanging face.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Dynamic Journey" number="DJ" stars="**" id="25" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">
    Terrific value. Abseil 25m to the upper of two ledges in common with Zoloft and Static Journey. From the RH side of the ledge and R of the hanging arête/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) to the overhang (1m L of Melancholy Mania). Follow the hand crack up the R of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the wall on the R to the top.
  </climb>
  <text id="30" class="heading3">Suicide Sadness Area</text><text id="34">The next climb can be accessed from the R via Pitch 1 of Tsing Gai (8m).</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16/17" length="100m" name="Melancholy Mania" number="MM" stars="" id="21" fa="K. Bischoff, J. Barnett, A. Wing, Mar 1981.Manic Melancholy : C. Allen, D. James, Jan 2012.">The dark chimney corner R of Static/Dynamic Journey. Start at the foot of the Peacepipe Corner or scramble in from the L from the large initial  ledge of Tsing Gai/Janzoon to avoid the first vegetated pitch.
1. 35m (Original route).Up the  chimney corner for 15m then step R and scramble up grassy ledges to belay at the foot of the chimney.
2a. 45m  (Original route) Climb easily up the chimney, taking care with jammed blocks. At 40m, mantle on two large blocks into a cave. Chimney and bridge out around a large chockstone to belay on a large ledge.
2b. 50m 17 Manic Melancholy Variant.  A less vegetated alternative. Takes the rib of rock to the L. Climb the shallow corner and cracks on the nose of rock 4m to the L, continuing past a loose, blocky section, moving R and up thin cracks to join Melancholy Mania at the top of pitch 2a. Better than it looks and surprisingly difficult to escape.
3.  20m 16  Climb the RH crack for 3m then move L into the middle one. Continue jamming up, then chimney out past a chockstone and finish through a hole behind some jammed blocks.   
           

  </climb><text id="35">The next five climbs all start at the the LH end of the big L trending ramp below Great Tier.</text>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Tsing Gai" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Mar 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1981.">Ought to receive more attention. Located in an exposed position on the prow of the Great Tier, between Melancholy Mania and Janzoon. 
1. 8m. Climb up and L to a ledge and belay.
2. 30m. Up the wall above taking the LH line to the top of some dubious flakes. Finger-jam the bulge and continue up the crack system until one can make a spectacular step R around the arête to Janzoon Ledge.
3. 32m. Step back around the arête and climb the thin crack just L of the arête to the top. Traverse back R to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="68m" name="Janzoon" stars="**" id="19" fa="I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan 1974." number="JA">
A thoughtful crack and corner climb that is a credible companion line to Suicide Sadness. 
1. 38m. Up to the ledge on L and move in behind the tea-tree. Up the flakes above (again, watch for a loose block or two) and take the RH line (a L-facing corner). Bridge and jam up to an awkward bulge that once negotiated ends on a belay ledge (shared with Suicide Sadness).
2. 30m. Move up and R before stepping back out L round the masive flake, and up to gain access to the twin cracks above. Take the LH line, moving R at the top round the  large detached pillar  to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Massacre Madness" stars="*" id="18" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, May 1996.">
    A merger of Janzoon and Suicide Sadness. Climb to the crux of Suicide Sadness (just after the blocks, at 15m). Instead of mantling up R to the ledge as you would for Suicide Sadness, step L and climb the face to the Janzoon ledge. Protection is a little problematic, but adequate.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="60m" name="Suicide Sadness" number="SS" stars="**" id="17" fa="M. Law, S. Parsons, D. Bowman, 1978.">
 A thought-provoking face route and corner between Janzoon and Nefertiti. The "temporary" nature of the rock in the initial 15m detracts a little from the overall quality. RP's are the go in protecting this section. .
1. 35m. Climb past the large ledge on L, as for Janzoon, but then continue straight up, passing some very loose blocks and thin face moves (crux) to the bottom of RH facing corner. Climb the corner/crack toward the roof, and 3m below this traverse L to belay ledge (shared with Janzoon).
2. 25m. Move back R to arête and climb through the roof to the twin cracks above. Take the RH line to the belay ledge with rap station. The abseil (1 x 58m) requires an 8m down-climb at the bottom to regain the ramp if using 50m ropes.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Terror Firmer" number="" stars="*" id="16" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Apr 2000.">
    A difficult variant finish to Suicide Sadness (SS). Instead of climbing through the roof on the 2nd pitch of SS, under-cling out R below the roof and climb the seam above to access the rap station as for Suicide Sadness.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Thirsty Thirties" stars="" id="15" fa="D. Stephenson, D. Bruce, Apr 1989.">
    One of the exceptions, this route starts at the base of the cliff proper and finishes at the ramp, taking the prominent crack splitting the wall directly under Suicide Sadness and just L of a dead tree.
1. 5m. Boulder or climb a short wall to a scrubby ledge at the base of the crack.
2. 45m. Climb the wall and thin crack past the loose block (crux). Bridge up the easy corner to belay on the ramp. Walk off R via the big ramp, or continue up another climb.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="60m" name="Nefertiti" number="" stars="**" id="14" fa="J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1968.">
 Deserves an increase in traffic. This is the trad chimney-corner near the L edge of the Tier, just to the R of Suicide Sadness and L of the black streaked wall of Clouds of Obsession.
1. 40m. Bridge the wide chimney (being cautious of the odd loose block) and belay on a ledge to the R.
2. 20m. Continue up the chimney and traverse L immediately below the massive wedged chockstone to access the Suicide Sadness rap station.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="70m" name="Clouds of Obsession" number="CO" stars="**" id="13" fa=" (1) N. Deka, et al. (2) D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">
    The black streaked wall directly across from Suicide Sadness and R from Nefertiti offers an excellent pitch. Starts from the ramp at a wall, 3m R of Nefertiti.
1. 35m 22. Climb the black streaked wall to belay on a small ledge with a large Hakea bush. Three pins (renewed 2006) help with protection, although other pro is available. Quit while you are ahead and abseil off here (rap station, 25m) or:
2. 35m 16. Step around L and climb the hand crack, or go straight up the wall above the belay. Continue up until forced L into Nefertiti, which is followed to the top. Descend as for Suicide Sadness.
  </climb>
  <text id="29" class="heading3">Blue Meridian Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">See the Arena topo for the line of Blue Meridian.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="66m" name="Passiona" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="V. Kennedy, J. Moore, Jan 1968.">
    Originally climbed after the 1967 fires, this route takes the big chimney and gully R of Clouds of Obsession. However, like a number of other old routes on the Pipes, it now appears to be completely choked up by regrowth and is probably too bushy to be worth climbing. Start from the big ramp.
1. 30m. Crux. Climb the small overhanging chimney above for 16m and step R onto the wall at the overhang. Go over loose blocks to a ledge.
2. 36m. Climb the scrubby gully taking the LH alternative.
  </climb>
  <climb id="31" name="G Pillar" length="30m" grade="15" fa="J. Nermut, T. McKenny, D. Humphries, Dec 2010." stars="*">
    The pillar between Clouds of Obsession and Slow Combustion offers well protected climbing on good holds. Start a couple of meters L of Slow Combustion under a clean corner. Up the corner and line above keeping L of the bush. From the ledge step L onto the arête and follow it up past the second bush to the top of the pillar. From here either traverse 4m L to the Clouds of Obsession chains, or head up and R to the second belay of Slow Combustion and continue up that.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="80m" name="Slow Combustion" number="SC" stars="*" id="11" fa="P. Robinson, Basil Rathbone, Nov 1979, Alt start: H. Jackson, 1998.">
    Sadly for climbers, but not the mountain, the final originally clean pitch is now full of hardy alpine shrubbery. The route is still worth doing for the first three pitches (which can be combined) – it's good climbing at the grade. Start 3m L of Doldrums.
1a. 20m 15. Up the wall to the orange overhang and pass it on the L. Take the RH of two cracks and jam until one can step R onto the face. Belay on a small ledge above.
1b. 20m 16. Alternate Start: Climb the blocky wall to the R straight up to the middle of the roof, taking care with loose blocks. Hand traverse out L on good holds (crux) to join the original route on the face above.
2. 20m 14. Follow the thin crack straight up the nice face.
3. 10m 14. Take the line on the L arête to a platform above. A 50m rap off the spike (bring a big sling) will get you to the ground from here.
4. 30m. Scrub bash up short walls and corners trending R to the bolts at the top of Blue Meridian.
  </climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Twist in My Sobriety" length="50m" grade="18" fa="Pitches 1 and 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011, Pitch 3: I. Snape, T. McKenny, Jan 2012." stars="*">
    Takes a steep eliminate line up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the large roof to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Alternative Start.
1. 32m 18  Up the stacked loose blocks to the middle of the roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up and slightly R onto the steep face above, climbing  past a suspect flake to a large ledge.
2. 8m   16 Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Pitch 3, if you have the large gear, or traverse 3m R to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic. 
3. 10m 17 Up the crack that splits the face to the small overhang. Climb past the small tree, and up the off-width using the RH wall. A couple of large cams (4.5 or 5) help restore some equanimity. Rap off as for Slow Combustion.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="140m" name="Doldrums" stars="" id="10" fa="J. Moore, M. Tillema, May 1968. Direct start: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, R. Rolls, 1979." number="DO">
    The middle crack of the obvious trio on Great Tier. To start, either scramble up the ramp from the R to the base of the line (pitch 2) or climb the direct start up to the ramp.
1. 20m. Direct start: Up the steep face on small holds to the start of the crack.
2. 24m. Jam around the overhang and belay on a ledge beneath some cutting grass.
3. 24m. Climb the crack then the chimney, moving L at a small overhang, to belay at the base of an obvious crack.
4. 36m. Climb the crack and after passing a bush, continue on sloping ledges to easier ground.
5. 36m. Scramble to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb id="32" stars="**" name="Schizophrenic" length="65m" grade="21" extra="Þ ↓" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.">
    Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 20. Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 FH to DBB.
2. 20m 21. Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 FH to DBB.
3. 20m 21. Move left from the belay and up the black groove, then pleasant face climbing to the top. 9FH to DBB.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="84m" name="Roaring Forties" stars="*" id="9" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977." number="RF">
    A recent makeover to remove the verdant scrub has restored a worthy mid-grade classic. The prominent chimney line on the R of the Tier midway between Blue Meridian and Schizophrenic.
1. 38m. From the ramp, 4m L of BM, climb the chimney past a large flake. At about 12m, below the trees, move L for 2m, then up the  black juggy wall to a steep corner.  Layback up this and trend back R into the chimney and up to a large leaning chockstone. 
2. 32m. Continue up the chimney and L wall  past a narrow section to a large ledge on the L. Belay at DBB.
3. 14m. Climb the steep corner directly above the chimney. At the top move R for 3m to BM belay and rap station.
On the first ascent the route continued further up but heavy regrowth now prevents this option.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="124m" name="Feeble Fifties" stars="" id="8" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Oct 1981.">
    Scramble up to the base of the Roaring Forties line to start.
1. 35m. Climb cracks in the wall R of the chimney before traversing L into the Roaring Forties belay.
2. 25m. Continue up for a few metres and take an obvious traverse line R across the face to the next major line.
3. 20m. Up the wall via the crack on the L.
4. 40m. Up the wide chimney awkwardly via scrubby ledges to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Shaky Flakes" stars="" id="7" fa="D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, 1983.">
    On the small wall at the top of Great Tier, above Blue Meridian and Slime Time. Climb the crack system on the wall L of the scrubby corner.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="90m" name="Blue Meridian" number="BM" stars="***" id="6" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1985.">
    Two quality pitches of clearly differing character give this popular route its reputation. From the big ramp L of Slime Time where it is most eroded, start at a short vee-groove below some conspicuous horizontal white scabs.
1. 45m. Climb the vee-groove and the line above. Move R slightly and up between the white scabs past an odd mantle and up to a ledge. Climb the L edge of large flake and up to DBB. Copious wires protect this pitch.
2. 45m. Continue up the crack and over thought-provoking bulge to gain a ledge. Up to the next ledge using a large block on the LHS. Layback to negotiate the  bottomless chimney (crux). Continue to belay ledge and DBB. Descend via rap stations (2 x 45m).
  </climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="90m" name="Slime Time" stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.">
    Better than it sounds, except after rain. Start at the far RH side of Great Tier and just L of the gully, below a prominent hand crack halfway up the cliff.
1. 45m. Climb the wall L of the gully, aiming for the base of the hand crack to belay on a small ledge with a dead tree.
2. 45m. Traverse R into the crack and move up this past a thin section involving flared finger jams (crux). Climb the arête above when the crack ends to belay on a large ledge just below the top. Abseil off as for Blue Meridian or climb to the top.
  </climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ ↓" grade="23" length="23m" name="Shrapnel" number="" stars="*" id="4" fa="A. Williams, C. Godfrey, Mar 2008.">
    Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just R of Great Tier (below the Arena). The route starts about 5m R of where the Great Tier access track heads up onto the L leading ramp where the other Great Tier routes start. Layback the pillar for 5m to a ledge, step L climb the face trending R to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required.
  </climb>
</guide>