<guide version="3">
<header access="The base of White Water Wall can be reached by following a rough track which begins where the old road first meets the top of the cliff. From the cliff top, head north (along the top of the cliff) to follow an indistinct pad to a rock cairn that marks the start of the descent (100m or so from where you first get the cliff top). The descent can be tricky in parts. Head down via a series of steps to a big terrace which is directly north of White Water Wall (above Light Fingered Madison Buttress). Scramble behind the notch at the southern end of the terrace and down a short corner to the base of the wall. The large aplite dyke which crosses the wall from left to right is Apline. Again, the climbs are described left to right, but you'll encounter them right to left." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="" name="White Water Wall" rock="White granite, 10-50m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5 min" id="1"/>
<image noPrint="false" src="coles bay whitewater v2.jpg" width="" id="2" legend="true" legendx="685" legendy="5" legendTitle="White Water Wall"><legend>3</legend><legend>4</legend><legend>5</legend><legend>6</legend><legend>7</legend><legend>8</legend><legend>9</legend><legend>10</legend><legend>11</legend><legend>12</legend><legend>13</legend><legend>14</legend><legend>15</legend><legend>17</legend><legend>18</legend></image><climb extra="" grade="11" length="60m" name="The Inevitable Destruction" number="1." stars="" id="3" fa="B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Mar 1975.">This goes up the easy angled rock left of Leilani.</climb><climb extra="" grade="11" length="60m" name="Leilani" number="2." stars="" id="4" fa="T.Last, S.Anderson, Mar 1975.">The corner below Slaughterhouse Five.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="55m" name="Slaughterhouse Five" number="3." stars="**" id="5" fa="D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Mar 1975. Alt Finish: Bill Baxter and Will Van Den Bosch, 17 Mar 2008 (although may be the line climbed previously by Dave James).">The second pitch of this popular route takes the crack that goes up the right hand side of the large roof at the wall's extreme left. 
1. 20m.  Climb Inevitable Destruction until level with the base of the crack on the right wall. 
2. 25m.  Move right across the large corner (Leilani) to the crack, up this to belay on ledge above the level of the roof. 
3. 10m.  Step right and easily up. 
Vonnegut's Finish (10m 17) After the main pitch, go up the corner for 3m to an horizontal crack that splits the steep wall on the left. Along this to the edge. Up the edge for a tenuous mantleshelf move to finish.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="70m" name="After the Goldrush" number="4." stars="***" id="6" fa="Kim Carrigan, I.Lewis, Jan 1975.">Start 8m right of Leilani below some leftward leading flakes. 
1. 20m 16.  Up the wall, then follow the flakes to a ledge. Climb straight up corner to ledge. 
2. 15m 19.  Traverse left under roof, then follow the diagonal up to a ledge below steep crack. 
3. 35m 16.  Follow the crack until it leads into Slaughterhouse Five.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Stretcher O'Neil" number="5." stars="" id="7" fa="N.Deka, A.Adams, D.Stephenson, Nov 1990.">Start as for Slaughterhouse Five. After climbing the crack for a few meters cross After the Goldrush, stepping right onto a knob on the face. Move up and slightly right with a couple of long reaches to gain a good ledge. Move up the face above on good holds and then right to a ledge. Above, trend left up to the ledge at the top of Slaughterhouse Five.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Resolution" number="6." stars="" id="8" fa="R.Thompson, R.Mansfield, Jan 1978.">The obvious off-width crack above the first belay on After the Goldrush. Needs no more description.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="No Turn Unstoned" number="7." stars="***" id="9" fa="P.Cullen, W.Anderson, Jul 1982.">Starts a few metres right of Resolution, it has a bolt at about 18m. Climb straight to the bolt, passing through a short, shallow corner. Straight up past the bolt, then slightly right and up over top scab to the finish. Considered poorly protected by some, despite the bolt at the crux, it is nevertheless a great climb.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Baystone Blues" number="8." stars="***" id="10" fa="B.Kennedy, R.Muehlin, I.Lewis, D.Bowman, L.Closs, Jan 1977.">Poor protection, but good climbing. Begin just right of the start of No Turn Unstoned (easily locatable because of its bolt). Climb up with a slight right trend to directly below left hand big scab. Straight up over this to a break below steeper rock at top. Up crack in steep pillar.</climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="45m" name="Earthly Dilemma" number="9." stars="" id="11" fa="P.Rakman, G.Holloway, Feb 1976.">The first obvious crack line on the left hand side of White Water Wall proper. A few metres right of Baystone Blues. Climb the crack. Gritty, and possibly the only worthless route on the wall.</climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="70m" name="Apline" number="10." stars="***" id="12" fa="K.Carrigan, S.Karpiniec (alt.), Jan 1975.">This route follows the large aplite dyke which crosses the face diagonally from left to right. A landmark, and a total classic. 
1. 36m.  Follow dyke to ledge. 
2. 34m.  Follow dyke to top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="Out of the Blue" number="11." stars="" id="13" fa="L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 1974.">Climb the next crack right of Earthy Dilemma. Despite a pleasant start, it becomes awkward around a bush at 30m. Not the best climb on the wall.</climb><climb extra="" grade="10" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Ultimate Conception" number="12." stars="*" id="14" fa="I.Lewis, L.Closs, May 1974.">Good beginners climb. This is the left line opposite the detached knob. It crosses Apline at about 8m. Climb the crack. Best done in more than one pitch.</climb><climb extra="" grade="12" length="45m" name="Lace Thunder" number="13." stars="" id="15" fa="L.Closs, I.Lewis, May 1974.">The right hand line of the two near the separate knob. Climb to the big cave type hollow and out the top right of this then straight to the top.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="16">The part of the wall right of Lace Thunder has been climbed on in every possible spot. There is little harder than grade 14. Probably the best climbing of this grade in the state. Go for your lives.</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Unnamed" number="14." stars="***" id="17">Although no first ascent details are known a commonly climbed route is the left trending line beginning at the extreme right of the wall. Finish up the last 5m of Apline.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="80m" name="Prancing in Pink" number="15." stars="" id="18" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, late, 1988.">On big ledge ~15m above platform on right hand end of White Water Wall. 1). Climb left to belay in Earthy Dilemma. 2). Keep traversing left past bolt on No Turn Unstoned and drop down to traverse along After the Goldrush. 3). Finish up Slaughterhouse Five.</climb><text class="heading3" id="21">Light Fingered Maddison Buttress</text><text class="text" id="22">The Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is the compact wall rising out of the sea to the north of White Water Wall. Best accessed by walking fifty or so metres at sea-level to the north of White Water Wall.</text><image noPrint="false" src="coles bay light fingered madison.jpg" width="500" id="23" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="360" legendTitle="Light Fingered Maddison"><legend>24</legend><legend>25</legend><legend>26</legend><legend>27</legend><legend>28</legend><legend>29</legend><legend>30</legend><legend>31</legend></image><climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Mrs. D's Girdle" number="1." stars="**" id="24" fa="R.Clune, G.Tempest, Mar 1983.">The name tells all. Very good climbing. Start at Snotty Snake and follow the horizontal all the way past Light Fingered Maddison and Rent a Rocket. Continue across the final horizontal to finish.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Snotty Snake" number="2." stars="*" id="25" fa="E. Peacock, Oct 1995.">The line with 1 BR, on the left of the buttress. A pre-placed first runner and long sling on the bolt were used on the first ascent. Reputedly easier if you're a bit taller, but damn hard if you're not.</climb><climb extra="" grade="28" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Animal Instincts Direct" number="3." stars="***" id="26" fa="G. Phillips, S.Young, 2007.">One of the best and hardest trad routes around. When the original route traverses right, head direct up the flaring cracks above.</climb><climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Animal Instincts" number="4." stars="*" id="27" fa="S.Parsons, 1987.">The crack 3m left of Light Fingered Maddison. Follow this until it ends, then move right to the undercling (crux) and straight up.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Light Fingered Maddison" number="5." stars="***" id="28" fa="N.Smith, N.Deka, F.Moon, R.McMahon, 1981.">Just left of the water are some right trending diagonals, below a sentry box. Climb the diagonals into the sentry box, then straight to the top. Well protected, excellent climbing.</climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Rent a Rocket" number="6." stars="" id="29" fa="Glen Tempest, R.Clune, Mar 1983.">Out of the water just right of Light Fingered Maddison (judge the tide and waves carefully). Lurch out of the sea and up the rib to gain the crack. Continue up the diagonal then the vertical shallow seam crack above to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Spray" number="7." stars="" id="30" fa="N.Deka, R.Hamilton, 1981.">The large groove to the left of Knocked in Rock.</climb><climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Knocked in Rock" number="8." stars="" id="31" fa="J.Lamb, Pete Steane, Oct 1982.">Starts on the yellow stained rock at the right hand end of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. Rap to a small ledge near sea level 3m to the right of the large groove. Up the flake crack to the large ramp, then climb the overhanging yellow wall on jugs to finish up a shallow corner on the slab.</climb><text class="Discussion" id="32">Above the Light Fingered Maddison Buttress is a short bolted climb. It doesn't look very good, but in this case looks are deceiving. To find the climb look at the cliffs above Light Fingered Maddison and spot the u-bolts.</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="12m" name="Dislocator Beta" number="" stars="*" id="33" fa="Nick Hancock, Apr 2002.">Climb past the three bolts to the no-hand rest on the ledge above. Either finish direct or bail left and up. It's not that difficult direct (19), but you do risk a ground fall. There's a tree at the top to belay or rap off, or you can scamper off to the north.</climb><text class="text" id="34">The short crack line to the right of Dislocator Beta is about grade 16 and is pretty cruisy apart from a strenuous top out. Descend/belay as for Dislocator Beta.</text><text class="heading3" id="35">The Prow</text><text class="description" id="36">These routes are described in relation to the Prow, the prominent orange buttress on the point about 100m north of the Light Fingered Maddison wall. It is clearly visible from the top of White Water Wall. Best approached by walking down a gully just north of the Prow and then walking back along the shelves.</text><text class="Discussion" id="37">The first 3 routes are on the buttress south of the Prow, overhanging at the base with a slab on the right wall. </text><image noPrint="false" src="coles bay prow 2.jpg" width="" id="38" legend="true" legendy="10" legendx="370" legendTitle="The Prow"><legend>39</legend><legend>40</legend><legend>41</legend><legend>42</legend><legend>43</legend></image><climb extra="" grade="15" length="18m" name="Quadrella" number="1." stars="" id="39" fa="D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The crack on the arête, gained by climbing into the overhanging slot left of the arête and then stepping right onto the nose and up the arête.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Crank" number="2." stars="*" id="40" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, Dec 1990.">Just right of the arête. Bouldery start and up the right diagonal crack. Back left to the horizontal break and up the seam just right of the arête. It's a bit contrived avoiding the easy crack on the left, but fun off the ground.</climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="18m" name="Quartet" number="3." stars="" id="41" fa="D, L.Stephenson, J, Marg Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The slab right of the arête. Pull up on to the slab, climb to the horizontal break and head right up the ramp.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="22m" name="The Prow" number="4." stars="**" id="42" fa="D.Stephenson, J &amp; M. Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The prominent orange capped arête, overhanging at base. Climb up to the left side of the buttress, move right, up the steep flake, to a stance on the nose. Climb a few feet up the left hand seam, step right across the slab, and follow the thin crack on the arête to the top.</climb><climb id="64" name="The Prowler" length="20m" grade="23" fa="A and B Wilson, July 2012.">Start as for the Prow. Once established on the nose follow thin seam L then straight up past two bolts and gear to the top. A challenge to place gear. Finish on top of the Prow. 
</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="40" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="22m" name="Gangabang" number="5." stars="*" id="43" fa="D.Stephenson, J &amp; M.Otlowski, Dec 1990.">The wall right of The Prow. Climb a pillar and cracks to finish up thin cracks just right of The Prow arête.</climb><text class="heading3" id="44">Morning Glory Rocks</text>
        <text class="text" id="45">Morning Glory Rocks (which get the early rising sun) are situated above The Prow. Access is down the White Water Wall track to the point where it leaves the she-oaks but before descending the wide rock gully. At this point go north for 20 meters.</text><climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="14m" name="Glory Days" number="" stars="" id="46" fa="R. McMahon.">Up the center of the first Rock. The thin crack with an overhanging start.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="44" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Darling, Don't Get Upset, Cuddle Me Instead" number="" stars="" id="47" fa="Bill Baxter, Dennis Kearnes and Alan Williams, Oct 2003.">On the Second Rock, the thin crack a meter to the right of the off-width.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="What A Weapon" number="" stars="" id="48" fa="Dennis Kearnes and half of Launceston, Oct 2003.">At the right hand end of the Second Rock is a cosmetic RP crack.  Up to this, then jugs at the top.</climb>
        
        
        <text class="heading3" id="49">Tango Towers</text><text class="description" id="50">To find the following climbs head pretty much straight downhill, northish, from the campsite opposite the toilet. You'll follow a ridge type feature down to an orange block. Head around to the left of this and go back right when you get near the water. You'll end up in a small zawn. Tango Towers is predominantly in the shade.</text><climb grade="20" length="20m" name="A Friend in Need" number="" stars="" id="51" fa="Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Apr 2001.">Deep in the zawn is a roof with an obvious horizontal line below it. This route is a hand traverse of this line, from right to left. The first pitch is fun, the second is crap and loose, I've included it only as a deterrent to any would-be suitors keen to get their name in the book - don't go near it, it's worthless and been done. 1) Follow the horizontal line from right to left, finishing on the slab. Gear and rock are good. 2) Grab the jug, chin up to the layaway and head on up. Gear and rock are crap.</climb><climb grade="22" length="12m" name="One Move Wonder" number="" stars="" id="52" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2000.">On the next pinnacle right. Start at the groove on the right of the face. A few tricky moves up left (crux) lead to the horizontal. Easier climbing leads to the top.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Sling Your Hook" number="" stars="" id="53" fa="Nick Hancock, Aug 2000.">On the next pinnacle to the right. Start on the left of the face. Head up for a few meters and work right to the arête at the horizontal. Follow the arête and face to the next horizontal, and then the line to the top. Protection is not great, but a sneakily slung spike edge may ease the tension for a while (until it falls off when you're in the middle of the crux).</climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Small Things In Life" number="" stars="*" id="54" fa="Nick Hancock, Carol Hurst, Aug 2000.">The thin left trending seam 3m left of Up the Ante. Up past an undercling flake, to follow the seam left to the arête. A tricky mantle leads to the top. The gear on this route is not great (small hard to arrange RP's), but the climbing is good.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Up the Ante" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Oct 2000.">Approximately 14m left of All Hands to the Pump. The right hand arête of the next pinnacle. The crux is off the ground and the gear after this is good.</climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Orange Crush" number="" stars="**" id="56" fa="R.Parkyn, A.Bissett, N.Hancock, Aug 2002.">Clip the bolt and climb the face to another via the tricky start. Follow the holds up and left, crossing the wide diagonal crack ( 4 camalot) to gain a third bolt. Head past this up the orange face to the top (mid-sized cams to belay).</climb><climb grade="22" length="15m" name="All Hands to the Pump" number="" stars="**" id="57" fa="N.Hancock, C.Hurst, Aug 2000.">On the semi-detached orange topped pinnacle nearest the sea. Start up the line on the east to gain a ledge. Continue steeply through the bulge and on to the top via the sparsely protected open groove.</climb><text class="heading3" id="58">Tango Towers - Right Side</text><text class="text" id="59">If you are looking at the Tango Towers from the sea, around on the RHS towards Bluestone Bay is a 6m high, gently overhanging wall with a striking crack spliting in the middle. It is about 2 minutes' walk from the Tango Towers main area. These four climbs are on this wall. </text><climb extra="" grade="18" length="6m" name="Generation Y" number="1." stars="" id="60" fa="Will Bartlett and Alex Lewis, Sep 2009">On the left hand side on the wall there is a thrutchy pink band. Up this. Move right to top out.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="6m" name="Generation O" number="2." stars="*" id="61" fa="Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett, Sep 2009">The thin, striking crack. Quite a nice bouldery sequence straight off the ground with some dynamic moves. Once the juggy horizontal break is reached, top out straight up. Red and Green C3's protect the lower moves.</climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="6m" name="A Bit of Alright" number="3." stars="" id="62" fa="Alex Lewis and Will Bartlett, Sep 2009">Beginning on the lower RHS of the wall is a juggy horizontal break that moves left and up. Follow this to join Generation O.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="4m" name="Good Stuff" number="4." stars="" id="63" fa="A.Lewis and W.Bartlett, Sep 2009">The RHS of the wall culminates in an overhanging prow. Climb this without going too far left or right. Might be a boulder problem, unsure of this as it could easily be done with mats. </climb>

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