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  <header access="The Columns can be accessed by either a top-down or a bottom-up approach. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The most common method of access for routes on Battlements, Split and Cossack Columns is the top-down approach. To access the top of the Columns drive to the summit. From below the platform near the summit lookout (GPS MTW100), head down to pick up a pad that heads right and descends to the top of the Columns amongst a patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). For detailed access notes for these three columns, consult the body of the text. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The most common method of access for routes on Cairn Column and Double Column, is the bottom-up approach. To access the base of the Columns drive to the climbers&apos; carpark and follow the track uphill to the Organ Pipes track junction (GPS MTW000). For detailed access notes for these two columns, consult the body of the text. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Double Column is the first column R of the snow gums as viewed looking towards Hobart. The top of this bulky column is separated from the main cliff by a 10m deep moat. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Split Column is just right of Double Column and has distinctive twin &apos;ears&apos; of rock that mark the top. Located on the RH ear is the Ultrahard rap station (GPS MTW140). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Battlements Column is just right of Split Column and capped by a large sloping slab of rock. The Freedom rap station is located here. In the gully just to the right on a yellow ledge about 15m down is the Daedalus rap station (GPS MTW150). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Cairn Column is considerably further to the right of Battlements Column. A pile of rocks on top resemble a cairn.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Cossack Column is located about 40m left of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). The Sky Rocket rap station is located about 6m down on the LHS of the column (GPS MTW120). A short feeder rap station exists at the top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Carrot Top Rap station is located by following the curve of the cliff line further around to left. The rap station is flagged by signature carrot bolts.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Two further options for descent to the base of the Columns exist at the LH end above Amphitheatre Ledge. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Left of Carrot Top is the Amphitheatre rap station which descends Ethnic Cornflake (50m) to the floor of the gully (marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). This is probably the easiest way to access routes not equipped with their own rap stations. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Further left of this rap station and downhill is the top of Exit/Entry an increasingly vegetated and largely out of fashion scramble to the base of the cliff that requires care to descend.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes on Cairn Column walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 150m, arriving at a climbers&apos; track junction (GPS MTW030) that heads right to Flange Buttress. The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominant boulder lead to reenter the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert&apos;s Fear, an obvious body-width chimney on Flange Buttress. Take the right fork and follow the base of cliff uphill to the reach Brown Madonna, a right facing corner and chimney. Routes in the Cairn Column area start immediately right of here.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes on Battlements, Split, Double and Cossack Columns, follow the Northern Buttress feeder track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Taking the LH fork follow pad up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that with some imagination looks like a shipwreck). Access to the base of the routes is via individual approaches to each column.&lt;br/&gt;" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="The impressive cirque of columns that starts from Flange Buttress and ends where it merges with Amphitheatre Ledge. The experience of climbing in the Columns is often character building and sometimes epic! Routes here are steeper, more serious and increasingly tradified than those on nearby Flange or Northern Buttresses. The Shipwreck provides a good vantage point from the base of the cliff for learning the topography of the Columns. Five distinct columns in L to R order aid route finding.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;At the LH end, the deep chimney of Brown Madonna marks the end of Flange Buttress and the start of the Columns. Cairn Column is the first column right of this demarcation zone. The trio of Battlements Column, Split Column and Double Column sit closely together in the centre of the Columns, whilst Cossack Column occupies the head of the cirque at the RH end." name="The Columns" rock="Spearing dolerite columns, up to 110m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min downhill or 20 min uphill" id="1" camping=""/>
  <text id="96" class="heading3">The Columns Overview</text>
  <image src="the columns access.png" width="900" id="2">null</image>
  <text class="heading3" id="64">Cairn Column</text>
  <text id="94" class="text">Cairn Column is the prominent column at the LH end of the Columns. It stands on a ramp of broken rock that forms the base of the southern columns. A pile of rocks on the summit of this column resembles a cairn.</text>
  <text id="99" class="text">Bottom-Up Access&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes on Cairn Column walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 150m, arriving at a climbers' track junction (GPS MTW030) that heads right to Flange Buttress. The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominant boulder lead to reenter the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert's Fear, an obvious body-width chimney on Flange Buttress. Take the right fork and follow the base of cliff uphill to the reach Brown Madonna, a right facing corner and chimney that marks the end of Flange Buttress. Routes in the Cairn Column area start immediately right of here.</text>
  <text id="100" class="text">Top-Down Access&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes on Cairn Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, then past Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock, then past Battlements Column with its large sloping capping rock, to reach Cairn Column which is a considerable distance further on. The pile of rocks on top that resemble a cairn distinguish it.</text>
  <image src="ColumnsFlangePrint.jpg" width="700" id="65">null</image>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="50m" name="Pink Car" stars="*" id="81" fa="M. McHugh, L. Closs, R. McMahon, Nov 1971." number="">An unassuming route that takes the crack line 1m R of Brown Madonna. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb the vee-chimney to the hanging flake on the L. Move out R, up the wall and then climb the crack on the L. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 25m. Original Route: Continue up for 15m and take the L line to the large ledge at the top of Brown Madonna. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 25m. Direct Route: Straight up to a large ledge. From here traverse L to the Brown Madonna rap anchors.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" name="The Great Bitch" number="" stars="**" id="80" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Dec 1973.">A superb mix of face and crack climbing on the steep wall 8m R of Brown Madonna. A memorable first ascent in that one of the intrepid leaders had left a boot at home, necessitating a boot being lowered to his second after each lead!&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m 19. Climb the short thin wall to reach some precariously stacked blocks. Move L and up the crack awkwardly to negotiate the bulge. Easier climbing up the line leads to a stance at the top of a pillar on the R wall. Steep jamming leads to a belay next to a spike. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 17. Continue up chimney/corner past a short layback section. About 12m above the belay a narrow foot traverse leads out L to the Brown Madonna ledge and rap anchors.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="62m" name="Canis Minor" number="" stars="*" id="79" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Apr 1998.">A worthwhile and unique route for the Organ Pipes, taking the LHS side of the Tower of Power. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m 19. Climb the first pitch of the Great Bitch.&lt;br/&gt;2. 27m 18. Continue up the chimney/corner past a short layback section as for Great Bitch. At the top of the corner instead of traversing L, swing R on to the face of the pillar looming above. Up the intermittent layback cracks between horizontals, using the R arête at times. Rap off as for Tower of Power (60m).</climb>
  <climb extra="19Þ ↓" grade="25" length="60m" name="The Tower of Power" number="TP" stars="***" id="78" fa="N. Hancock, D McConnell, Dec 2003.">"I can stand about an hour on the Tower of Power; as long as I gets a little golden shower" (Frank Zappa). The massive arête 7m R of the Great Bitch. Climb face and arête with the crux at one-third height. A # 1 Camelot or #2 Friend may be useful about 3/4 way up to avoid a run out section. Trend L near the end to finish at rap station on top of the tower (1 x 60m).</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" name="Best Route in the Gorge " number="" stars="*" id="77" fa="D. McConnell, Nov 2003.">Scramble up scrubby ledges R of Tower of Power to a sloping stance with a DBB. Climb the thin face and blunt arête. Rap station with 2 fixed hangers.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="27m" name="Birthday Treat" stars="" id="76" fa="D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982." number="">An exception to the bottom-up approach. Accessed by abseiling 45m from the top of the Columns to a large bushy tree. Climb the hand and fist crack in a shallow orange corner to the L of the final pitches of Piccolo.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="67">The descent for routes between Piccolo and F-Sharp is via the rap station above Bert's Fear (GPS MTW170): (1) 15m from boulder to ledge; (2) 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; (3) 50m via Brown Madonna rap station to the deck. Serendipity has its own rap station.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="90m" name="Piccolo" number="PI" stars="" id="75" fa="T. Christie, A. Keller, Jan 1966.">The notoriously tight chimney behind the Tower of Piccolo (the small pillar above and R of the Tower of Power). Start well to the R of the main climb below a scrubby terrace. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb easily to the terrace that leads L to the start of the Firebird and Pooh Corner chimneys. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Piccolo Wall. A few metres L of Firebird is an unlikely looking wall which overhangs in places. This pitch finishes on a large sloping scrubby ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Piccolo Chimney. Ascend the chimney at the far L of this ledge, which narrows uncomfortably at the halfway point and finishes on the crest of the Flange Buttress. &lt;br/&gt;4. 5m. Tower of Piccolo. Start on the south side and gain the summit of the tower by transferring to the west side. Vacate the tower by a spectacular but easy leap – or so they say...</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="40m" name="Serendipity" number="SD" stars="**" id="74" fa="P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec 2005.">A clean corner line found halfway up the cliff. To access from below, scramble and climb up to the base of Piccolo Wall, L of Firebird, and climb the 15m wall to the base of twin corner cracks. To access from above, head 30m south of Cairn Column then scramble down and L to a ledge at the end of the Columns. Leaving a fixed line, rap 20m to a ledge with two bolts and then a further 40m rap to start the climb. The climb follows the corner with a thin crack on the L to the ledge 20m from the top of the Pipes. One third of the way up where the crack thins, there are two alternatives: (a) go straight up; (b) traverse L onto the arête, up 3m then back R into the corner. Continue up the LH side of the corner to a small tree. Move past this to reach a layback crack. At the top move R onto the slab and scramble L to the bolts. Descent: either abseil off and scramble back down, or jumar 20m out (the line above has been climbed at 20 but is deemed suitable only for masochists).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="65m" name="Firebird" number="" stars="" id="73" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">A direct line marred somewhat by loose rock and vegetation in places. Start 15m L of Cymbal. Scramble 40m as for Pooh Corner to a scrubby terrace beneath two chimneys. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Up the LH chimney past loose rocks at 15m to a claustrophobic stance in the chimney.&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Continue up the heavily vegetated chimney and corner to a good stance below the final corner.&lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Crux. Straight up corner above to a ledge, then up the nasty scrubby corner above. Might be a tad undergraded by today's standards, and more vegetated than when it was first climbed.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="72m" name="Pooh Corner" number="PC" stars="*" id="72" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">Worth doing on the basis of the first pitch alone. Scramble 40m (to the L of pitch 1 of Cymbal - vegetated and a bit loose in places) to initial chimney in the R of a small square amphitheatre, 2m R of Firebird. &lt;br/&gt;1. 42m. Climb up via an awkward chockstone crux to a sloping grassy stance among bushes. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Continue up, passing a bush, and from the grassy ledge continue up chimney on L to top (Cymbal takes the R corner - probably the best way to go to avoid the vegetation).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="126m" name="Whodunnit" number="" stars="" id="71" fa="N. Deka, T. McKenny, Feb 1990.">This route may have been climbed earlier, as there is an old peg of unknown origin on the third pitch. Takes the obvious crack line immediately L of Cymbal pitch 2.&lt;br/&gt;1. 36m. As for Cymbal. Easy climbing, bushy. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Start up a short layback and step R into the crack. Up this until a small ledge is gained in a widening of the crack line. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Launch up the offwidth above and continue through a small roof (peg) then slightly R to finish on the Cymbal belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 30m. Finish up one of the Cymbal pitch 3 variants (first ascent took the Original Route).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="108m" name="Cymbal" number="CY" stars="**" id="70" fa="D. McKelvey, T. Terry, Jan 1966. Deep Chimney: M. Douglas, J. Morley, Jan 1966.">A unique subterranean experience with a swag of variants. &lt;br/&gt;1. 36m. Easy but vegetated scrambling over loose rock to the base of two chimneys immediately L of Cairn Column. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 42m. Probably the better of the two choices. Climb the LH chimney over the jammed blocks and then continue up the excellent crack and chimney continuation until a large platform is reached on the L. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 42m. Deep Chimney. Takes the RH line up crack that opens out into a deep chimney with a prominent chockstone. Near the top either traverse L and up to the large platform as in (a) or continue up to a ledge on the R to access The Vice. At this point it is highly recommended to climb The Vice or another of the variant pitches listed below. However, if you wish to climb the original pitch instead, who are we to stop you? &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 15. Drop (not literally) off the LH edge of the platform onto a ledge and belay in the corner. Climb up past the vegetation and up the RH corner exiting behind a huge chockstone in the roof. Either climb the chockstone crack above or make an exposed traverse L into a chimney and surmount the chockstones.</climb>
  <text id="90">The next three routes are usually climbed as variant finishes to Cymbal. Alternatively, it is possible to access them from the top via a 30m abseil to the large ledge at the end of Cymbal pitch 2.</text>
  <climb id="86" name="Dick the Despot" length="30m" grade="20" stars="*" fa="A. Adams, N. Deka, May 1991." extra="" number="">The obvious off width crack directly above the ledge. A #4 camalot makes the crux at 7m a lot more palatable! Continue up the widening crack and exit R onto the face where necessary.</climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Jungle Jim" fa="N. Deka, A. Adams, May 1991." length="30m" grade="18">Needs a bit of a clean! The twin cracks 3m R of Dick the Despot. Stem and chimney up past the vegetation until near the top. Revert to jamming the RH line up and over the summit bush.</climb>
  <climb id="88" name="The Vice" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968." length="30m" grade="16" stars="*">A great pitch that has been neglected for many years. The corner with twin cracks 5m R of Jungle Jim. Originally approached via the Deep Chimney variant (2b) of Cymbal, but it is also possible to traverse R from the ledge at the end of (2a), behind the large rock spike, and into the line that way.</climb>
  <climb id="91" stars="***" name="Tularaemia" length="50m" grade="25" extra="Þ ↓" fa="Claire Hewer, Jan 2012" number="">Climbs the arête of Cairn Column. From the base of Brown Madonna scramble up and right for about 100m to the spectacular orange face below the overhangs at the bottom of the Column. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 25. A sustained and technical pitch, step right onto the face at the 4th bolt then up through the overhang and arête above. 20 bolts. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 24. Balancy climbing continues up the arête. 15 bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="93" stars="***" name="The Brush Tail Extension" length="80m" grade="28" extra="Þ ↓" fa="Kim Robinson Feb 2012" number="">Adds 30m of additional climbing to Tularaemia and increases the grade. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 25. As for Tularaemia pitch 1.&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 24. As for Tularaemia pitch 2.&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m 27. Fridge climbing up the two aretes to a tricky finish. 8 bolts. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m 28. Straight forward climbing interspersed with a thought provoking boulder problem. 8 bolts.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="80m" name="Firebrand" number="FB" stars="*" id="69" fa=" Pitches 1 &amp; 2, and 3 to within 10m of the top: J. Moore, P. Jackson, R. Williams, Mar 1967. Pitch 3 done with aid by C. Dewhirst, J. Moore, Feb 1968. FFA: M. Steane, J. Burgess, Apr 1976.">Recently upgraded from 17 to restore some battered and fried egos. The conspicuous black, dirty, sometimes wet, chimney (sounds a cracker doesn't it!) on RH side of Cairn Column. Scramble for a couple of rope-lengths through the mulga to the foot of the chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1. 33m. Straight up corner to belay above numerous dead bushes. &lt;br/&gt;2. 27m. Up narrow chimney to belay above a large pile of chockstones. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Bridge and jam up the line, then L through roofs, to finish back R (crux).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="F-Sharp" number="" stars="" id="68" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968. FFA: D. Bowman, L. Wood, Dec 1977.">Difficulties are confined to a small section at the end of pitch 2, but loose and mossy rock makes the route a serious undertaking. Start almost directly below Daedalus at a small embayment in the base of the cliff, below a double crack line that cuts the upper part of the cliff. &lt;br/&gt;1. 34m. Follow one of two lines from the top of a small gully to a stance adjacent to a bush. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb the fine corner crack, over a bulge split by two cracks (crux), to a large stance. &lt;br/&gt;3. 36m. Up the crack and off-width line above to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="41">Battlements Column and Split Column</text>
  <text id="97" class="text">Battlements Column is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks in the centre of the Columns. When viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Split Column is immediately right of Battlements Column. The top 25m of Split Column looks as if it has been split with an axe and at the very top are two ear-shaped rocks..&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <image src="ColumnsCentralPrint.jpg" width="700" id="42">null</image>
  <text class="text" id="43">Split Column is immediately L of Double Column and separated from it by a shallow gully. The top 25m of Split Column looks as if it has been split with an axe and at the very top are two ear-shaped rocks. If you look carefully, you can see a sinuous hand-crack snaking its way up the nose of the column into an ever-widening crack below the top. This is the line taken by pitch three of Split Column. L again is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks. This is Battlements Column and when viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff.</text>
  <text class="text" id="44">Descent: A rap station at the top of Ultrahard (35m – GPS MTW140) reaches the ledge at the start of the final pitch of Split Column and the starts of routes in the Holiday in Cambodia area. Another rap station at the top of Daedalus (50m – GPS MTW150) is used to access routes in the Icarus area, and requires a further abseil (40m) from a tree to the bottom. A third rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column descends to the Middle Battlement. This is used to access to the start of Freedom.</text>
  <climb id="82" name="Armchair Ethics" length="35m" grade="23" fa="A. Lewis, S. Young, Jan 2011." extra="↓">Access from above. Fix abseil rope to the Daedalus rap bolts, then walk south 4m to abseil 35m down the steep dihedral L of Once in a Lifetime, passing a small ledge 6m down. Belay on a pillar with a big tree as an anchor. Follow finger crack/seams back to the top, moving L onto face for a few metres at half height to avoid fused section. Well protected (take lots of tips/fingers size gear), with a bouldery crux at the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="18Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" name="Once in a Lifetime" number="" stars="***" id="63" fa="N. Hancock, Jan 2008.">Hancock’s better half doubted his ability to send this baby after three years of repeated spankings! A sustained long pitch in a great position. Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing L across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête L of Daedalus in one monster pitch. Technical moves with good rests.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" name="Daedalus" number="DD" stars="**" id="62" fa="H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.">Get in shape for Yosemite. The classic crack on the wall L of Claret Corner. Rap in from the top via the U-bolt rap anchors (50m) to the large ledge at the base. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Enter the crack a couple of metres below the bottom L corner of the ledge. Climb easily for about 13m to a pea-pod scoop. Climb the steep off-width crack for 6m, passing a very old bolt (not recommended for use, originally placed by Ewbank during an early 1960s attempt), then move onto the L wall for another 6m before returning to the crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Continue up the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="23" length="25m" name="Cruel But Fair" number="" stars="*" id="61" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1998.">Access from above using the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus to abseil down to another pair 25m down the wall. Follow the finger crack back up to the top. Good natural pro all the way in a range of sizes.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="109m" name="Claret Corner" number="" stars="*" id="60" fa="D. Groom, A. Keller, J. Moore, Dec 1967. (3b): T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Mar 2002.">The route up the corner full of immense jammed chocks immediately L of the Upper Battlement Column. Start at base of the cliff, as for Icarus. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb initial crack and continue up to large ledge at foot of main corner. &lt;br/&gt;2. 34m. Climb the corner to a recessed stance. &lt;br/&gt;3a. 35m 14. Continue up chimney. Some loose rock near top. &lt;br/&gt;3b. 25m 16. From the recessed stance, step L and climb thin crack until a move can be made back R onto the face L of chimney. Bridge and face climb to top, finishing over bulge. Avoids the slippery and difficult chimney. Rap station as for Daedelus.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="114m" name="Icarus" number="IC" stars="***" id="59" fa="C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank, Feb 1968 (3 bongs were used on the first ascent on pitch 2 for a rest, and 3 pegs to protect pitch 3). FFA: H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.">You can't train for this sucker in the gym. This sensational line is on the LH face of Battlements Column, below the obvious monolithic boulder wedged across the notch between the pillar and main wall. The first pitch is usually avoided by abseiling from the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus (50m) to a ledge then scrambling down a couple of metres to the start of pitch 2 of Icarus. &lt;br/&gt;1. 36m. Climb directly to the ledge at the start of the crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. (Ignore the crack-line with a peg on the L, it goes nowhere and is usually festooned with 'tat' left behind by folk trying to avoid climbing the chimney!) Climb the wide crack and awkwardly enter the bottomless chimney (crux). Continue up the tight chimney, exiting through a bulge and jam the hand crack to a small belay ledge on the R. &lt;br/&gt;3. 48m. Climb the crack and bulges in behind the huge pillar to the notch. Continue climbing up behind the pillar to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="100m" name="Bismark" number="BM" stars="**" id="57" fa="D. Groom, J. Moore, Jan 1968. FFA: (2 and 3) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (1) K. Carrigan, P. Bigg, 1982.">Once an old aid route, this is the impressive line up the middle of Battlements Column. 1. 20m 24. Climb crack at base of Battlements Column to ledge at 5m. Step past loose blocks and climb shallow corner and thin cracks above (crux) to next ledge. An easier alternative is to climb pitch one of Incision. 2. 40m 21. Climb the front of column to it's top. 3. 40m 14. Drop off back of column and climb straight to top of cliff. Rap station as for Daedelus.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="104m" name="Incision" stars="" id="56" fa="(1) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (2) P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1979." number="IN">A good landmark. This is the prominent wide chimney on the RH side of the Battlements Column, which closes down after 15m into a crack. &lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Up the chimney, following the crack through the roof until it widens again. Move up and L around the arête to belay on a ledge on Bismark. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Move back R into the line and pass the roof by climbing the L arête. Continue straight up to join Battlements above Mad Dog Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;3. 50m. As for Battlements.</climb>
  <climb id="83" name="Freedom" length="25m" grade="30" extra="Þ ↓" fa="J. Bresnehan, Feb 2010.">The hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of pitch 3 of Icarus. Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements). A technical boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position and should be enjoyed by all. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="50">To access the top pitches of routes between Sandy Bay Road and Split Column, use the rap station at the top of Ultrahard (35m), which is located on top of the column in a vee-groove on the RH side (facing out) of one of the ear-shaped rocks.</text>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="35m" name="Sandy Bay Road" number="" stars="**" id="55" fa="L. Wood, M. Tillema, A. Bush, Dec 1976.">Trad heaven, a fabulous pitch. Originally accessed via what is now Battlements Direct, it is now rapped into via Ultrahard. Climb the obvious crack on the wall L of Holiday in Cambodia corner. Take some large gear (#4 Camalot or larger) to protect initial 8m.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="35m" name="Holiday in Cambodia" number="HC" stars="***" id="54" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, 1982.">Sustained, energetic and some say hard for the grade. This corner shares the first 8m of Split Column's final pitch. Start up the corner and instead of traversing R as for Split Column, continue straight up the flared finger and hand crack in the corner past two small roofs (crux). Follow the good hand crack more easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="28" length="30m" name="Ultrahard" number="" stars="*" id="53" fa=" S. Parsons, Nov 2006.">The self-explanatory direct start to Ultrasound. Climb up Holiday in Cambodia for 2m then reach R and clip the first bolt. From here move R into the line and up past 4 bolts, before finishing up Ultrasound where a trad rack including very small to medium cams and wires is required.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Ultrasound" number="" stars="***" id="52" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">Thin and thought provoking. The line found L of Split Column's final pitch. Reached by abseil from the top rap anchors (20m). Belay in the niche halfway up pitch 3 of Split Column. Step L around the corner and follow the thin crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="120m" name="Split Column" number="SC" stars="***" id="51" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, Feb 1978.">Engages and focuses the climber fully! This route is usually done simply to experience the final pitch. Either start 2m R of Battlements Direct, at a short corner, or rap in from the Ultrahard rap station (35m) for the final 3-star pitch. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Good value, maybe worth a star. Up the corner, then continue up the face to a flared hand and finger crack in a short corner, which is followed to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb the very scrubby and tottering gully on the L to a ledge below the main corner on the LH side of the column. A pitch best avoided really. &lt;br/&gt;3. 40m. The pitch you all want to lead. Up the corner as per Holiday in Cambodia for 6m to a thin traverse line leading R. Traverse for 3m then follow the sinuous hand crack up the nose to a niche. Follow the widening line past the twist to the top with the able assistance of one's love for #4 RPs.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name=" Soliton" number="SO" stars="**" id="49" fa="H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">Position, position, position. High quality climbing up the exposed line below and R of the last pitch of Split Column. Abseil down the NW side of Split Column to belay in a R-facing corner, not far above the large bushy ledge 50m from the top. Step L onto the face and climb through balancy moves with spaced gear to the thin crack. Follow the crack (crux) and then the easier arête to the ledge of Split Column. Finish up this.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Face What You Fear" stars="**" id="48" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">To the R of Split Column on the RH face of the column. Rap into the gulch. Traverse out of the chimney to the thin crack. Tight hands lead past the crux to easier going near the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="110m" name="Midnight Cabbage" number="" stars="" id="47" fa=" M. Tillema, D. Klees, 1972. (2b): P. Treby, T. Brooks, Jan 1974.">Interesting and varied climbing, if a little jungle-like now, up the RH side of Split Column. Start directly below Split Column at the crack on the R. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Straight up the crack and reverse the downclimb section on Battlements to belay on the Lower Battlement. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 30m. Move R for 2m and follow an obvious line over a bulge to a large ledge, as for Coleslaw. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 30m 17. Direct variant: Follow the jam crack for about 5m then step R and climb a short wall. Move up to the base of the huge chimney behind Split Column. &lt;br/&gt;3. 40m. Ascend the chimney to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="40m" name="Battlements Direct" number="BT" stars="*" id="46" fa="Unknown.">Good value and worthy of inclusion separately. Climb the corner crack on the R directly below Split Column to Lower Battlements platform. Abseil off or finish up Battlements.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="118m" name="Battlements" number="" stars="" id="45" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Apr 1962.">Traverses across other climbs in the area. Some good climbing, but gradually disappearing into the jungle. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Up central cleft of Double Column to long scrubby ledge. From LH end, climb wide crack to large platform known as the Lower Battlement. Move 4m down from LH end of platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Mad Dog Chimney. Follow easy line diagonally through the mulga, trending L. An obvious interior line leads to an airy balcony to L – the Middle Battlement. &lt;br/&gt;3. 43m. Layback corner crack and continue up past an old peg (still there in 2007) to ledge on rear face of final tower (a harder alternative is to traverse R when halfway up layback and then up). Continue straight up the difficult crack, past another old peg (2007), to notch and then finish via grotty chimney. Better but harder is to climb clean-cut crack to the R above the notch, traversing back L at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="30">Double Column</text>
  <text class="text" id="31">Double Column is the double column immediately right of Split Column and separated from it by a shallow gully. Double Column is forward standing, approximately 100m high and split by a conspicuous crack/chimney line.This is the line taken by Double Column Central.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text id="101" class="text">Bottom-Up Access&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes on Double Column, follow the Northern Buttress feeder track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that with some imagination resembles a shipwreck). To approach Double Column from here walk across and up the gully to the base of the column.</text>
  <text class="text" id="32">Top-Down Access&lt;br/&gt;If approaching from the summit Double Column is the first column R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. The top of this bulky column is separated from the main cliff by an 8m deep moat, making abseil access difficult. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To access the base of the climbs via abseil it is best to walk L from the patch of snow gums and use either the Cossack Column (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or Amphitheatre rap station (1 x 50m). Both reach the base of the columns for both rap stations. Alternatively down-climb Exit/Entry. Walk across and down the gully to the base of Double Column.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="105m" name="Coleslaw" stars="" id="40" fa="J. Moore, V. Kennedy, Nov 1967. FFA: Phil Steane, N. Ward, Apr 1983." number="">Not the best diet for good climbing. &lt;br/&gt;1. 27m. As for Battlements (Original Route). Belay on the Lower Battlement. &lt;br/&gt;2. 27m. Straight up to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Up on the R for 3m and traverse L onto a small buttress in middle of the gully. Where the buttress ends, continue up the wall (crux). Step R into a crack and after 3m move R into a corner. &lt;br/&gt;4. 21m. Continue up until behind Double Column then up the easy crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="77m" name="Double Column Central" number="DC" stars="*" id="39" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Apr 1967. FFA: B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Oct 1970.">Famously on-sight soloed in the rain by Henry Barber in the 70s, it takes the conspicuous crack/chimney line up the centre of Double Column. Reached by a scramble from the R, and start L of the recess on the Double Column proper. &lt;br/&gt;1. 23m. Climb the chimney to a stance in a small cave. &lt;br/&gt;2. 23m. Continue with difficulty straight up the groove through a bulge. Follow the chimney to another cave stance. &lt;br/&gt;3. 16m. Climb the roof split by two cracks immediately above the stance. Either follow the off-width crack, or the corner on the R, to the base of a tight chimney. Squeeze through to a stance. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m. Straight up the final chimney or escape through the back of the column.</climb>
  <text id="92">The next routes start in a recess immediately R of Double Column, and a substantial ledge extends across the recess beneath the start of these routes. A 15m chimney and a scramble up steep grass provides access to the ledge.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="70m" name="Mind&apos;s Eye" number="" stars="**" id="38" fa="J. Bresnehan, Feb 2009.">The arête R of Double Column Central. Approach as for Split Decision. As well as quickdraws, take a rack of cams up to hand size, with doubles (maybe triples) around finger size. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 24. Climb the blocky arête to belay (10 bolts and finger sized cams). &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m 24. Up face and arête past 5 bolts, then up pumpy finger crack for 15m to more bolts. Move R along shelf to squeeze chimney. Finish delightfully up this to the top. Belay takes cams to hand size and/or you can sling a pointy boulder a few metres back from the edge. Descend as for Sky Rocket or Exit/Entry.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="57m" name="Split Decision" stars="*" id="37" fa="N. Deka, G. Cooper, Jan 1989." number="">The steep crack on the LH wall of the recess just L of The Cordoban. &lt;br/&gt;1. 12m 21. Climb the steep flared finger crack on the L face for 10m, trending L to a belay on the arête. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m 17. Follow the widening corner crack to the top, which starts with fingers and ends as a walk.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="93m" name="The Cordoban" number="" stars="*" id="36" fa="J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1967.">An adventurous day out that has sandbag potential. Best done when dry, it takes the line behind the RH column of Double Column. Start at foot of corner at LH end of recess ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Up the black lichen-laden corner through a constriction to belay on ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Crux. Follow RH crack until below loose swinging door of rock (attempts to dislodge it have failed to date). Switch to LH crack and climb up to pea-pod stance. Revert to RH line and climb wide crack to ledge 6m above (a #4 Camalot feels reassuring). &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Chimney up narrow crack, step onto R wall at 7m and belay on ledge above and to R. &lt;br/&gt;4. 18m. Continue up main chimney and climb up leaning column. From top, exit R through back of large flake onto large belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;5. 21m. From RH end of ledge, climb corner awkwardly past bush and up through scrub to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="85m" name="Play Spot the Poss" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb 1984.">The most enjoyable pile of choss you're ever likely to climb. The direct line in the middle of the ledge between Hiawatha and The Cordoban. 1. 45m. Climb the crack to below the roof capping the vee-chimney. Continue up the hand cracks on the L, which become dirty, to a belay at the foot of the leaning column. 2. 40m. Continue up the chimney and corners on the R.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="80m" name="Hiawatha" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="J. Ewbank, D. Groom, 1969.">An entertaining direct line. This route located at the RH side of the ledge and starts at the base of the crack/chimney L of Moments of Inertia. &lt;br/&gt;1. 36m. Straight up to a small ledge on the R. Continue up the crack to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 44m. Continue on past a block at 10m, up the side of a huge flake to a stance on top of it. Up the crack directly above past loose blocks to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="70m" name="Moments Of Inertia" stars="*" id="33" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams, Jan 1991." number="">Deserving of more attention, the 2nd pitch is a treat. This route is the corner line on the far RH side of the ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 18. Climb the wide crack in the corner to a large vegetated ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m 16. From the middle of the ledge climb the hand crack through the break and follow the line directly to the top, moving L to the arête at one point to avoid a dirty fused corner.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="3">Cossack Column</text>
  <image src="AmphitheatreCossackColumnPrint.jpg" width="700" id="4">null</image>
  <text class="text" id="5">Cossack Column is the only column at the RH end of the cirque. Right of Double Column is a wide curving stretch of wall that ends at a 65m high twin column that is closely joined. Two large wedge shaped blocks cap the summit.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;walk up the steep grassy slope above the Shipwreck past the start of Exit Entry to the base of the routes.</text>
  <text class="text" id="6">Descent: To access or descend from the top of the Pipes there is a) DBB rap station at the very top above the column (6m) which by-passes the difficult down climb, to b) a 50m abseil from the Cossack Column rap station at the top of Sky Rocket. (GPS MTW120) . Alternatively use the Amphitheatre rap station which is marked by a cairn and a blue dot, new 2007. A 50m abseil takes you to the base of the columns. If you'd rather not abseil it is possible to downclimb Exit Entry. There are two carrots (no hangers or nuts) at the top of Early Bird/Carrot Top (GPS MTW160) which can be used to access those two climbs, or use your own tape abseil if you think it might be safer.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="52m" name="Killer Canary" number="" stars="**" id="29" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, 1982.">A brilliant and unlikely line up the arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 18. Climb pitch one of Where Eagles Dare Not, belaying at first obvious ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 22. Move L to the arête and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête to belay on a small exposed ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 12m 21. Step down and L onto the face and climb face and cracks to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Where Eagles Dare Not" number="" stars="" id="28" fa="I Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.">R of Hiawatha, a conspicuous forest of sassafras (a distinctive light-green bush) fills the top 10m of a crack. &lt;br/&gt;1. 10m. Up a short chimney, through a hole to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Follow a dirty chimney to an off-width crack (crux). Continue to a belay on top of loose blocks. &lt;br/&gt;3. 23m. Climb the crack to an exposed stance on the R. &lt;br/&gt;4. 16m. Move up to the bushes, and either peg L along a horizontal break to a ledge, or rap off to avoid the aid section. &lt;br/&gt;5. 26m. Scramble to the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="21">Scramble L from Tartarus on ledges to access the following six routes:</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="65m" name="Bad Attitude" number="" stars="" id="27" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, 1986.">Knuckle down for some serious off-width action. Takes the line between Sassanach and Where Eagles Dare Not. Approach from the ledges L of Tartarus. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Follow the R-facing corner/hand crack to a stance just below a small roof on the LH wall. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Crux. Continue up the widening crack to the roof. Turn this on the R and continue to the top. Take a large cam or ample tape to sling chockstones.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name=" Sassanach" number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Mar 2002.">The line immediately L of Hakea, following a steep crack. A small sassafras bush high up provides a welcome rest.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="Hakea" number="" stars="**" id="25" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb 2002.">L of Days of Future Past is a sustained, steep, classic crack of hand and finger width with some face climbing at the start. Climb the wall to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams to an alcove at half height. Up higher, pull round a huge and spectacular overhanging flake. Belay on the ledge at the base of the hakea tree barring the exit. Abseil off here or prussic 4-5m via fixed abseil rope.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Days of Future Past" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="Top Roped: P. Robinson, Mar 2002.">This steep corner L of The Word Was Made Flesh has been top roped. Festooned with one or two drapes of tea tree and choked with tussock grass in places, it is not recommended unless one is a true green climber. The overhang is interesting.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="65m" name="The Word Was Made Flesh" stars="" id="23" fa="N. Duhig, M. Edwards, 1988." number="FL">The second crack L of Tartarus. Very sustained. &lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Awkward jamming up the V-groove to a semi-hanging belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Continue more easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" name="A Step Back" number="" stars="*" id="22" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, May 2002.">The first line L of Tartarus. From the foot of Tartarus, climb up L to a sloping grassy ledge at the base of the line. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb the long intimidating crack. The crux is about halfway up, where the crack widens above an ancient white crusty nut and biner (remnants of a 1960s attempt). Belay at the base of some large blocks. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Continue with care past the blocks. At the top move straight up past the bush, or make an awkward traverse R into the hole at the top of Tartarus, which leads through to the Cossack Column rap station.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="60m" name="Tartarus" number="TA" stars="***" id="20" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.">Quintessential climbing for aspiring crack masters. Memorable for being the first climb on the Pipes graded 20 and on the cusp of changing ethics. Kim had brought his NSW ethics on holiday with him, and had persuaded Lew to climb without the customary (in Tasmania at the time) small selection of pitons for protection. There must have been a crisis of confidence midway up the climb, because a cry rang out (from Lew, to Mendelt Tillema, who was somewhere at the top of the Amphitheatre/Sentinel Ridge area) - "Hey, Mendelt, where's ya pegs?". These were duly lowered, and the climb proceeded. The steep and strenuous crack line up the LH side of Cossack Column. Scramble up to the base of the buttress or rap in as for Sky Rocket. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb a short corner on the L to a small bush and step R into the base of the crack line. Continue up the line to a vague stance above a bulge split by a hand crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Follow the V-shaped groove that slants up to the L and around the corner, then continue up easier ground to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" name="Sky Rocket" number="SR" stars="***" id="19" fa=" S. Parsons et al, 1982. Direct start: M. Colyvan, R. Clarke, 1984. Direct finish: P. Robbins, 1990.">Trad climbing on the Pipes is epitomised by this signature route. The climbing is outstanding and the position preposterous. Start as for Tartarus before moving R to climb the LH arête and front face of the column. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Climb the Tartarus line to a belay in a vee-slot.&lt;br/&gt; 2. 40m. Traverse R from belay across the face (1m above a small ledge) to the arête. Step around the arête, and up the thin crack line. (1st crux). Climb shallow corners of increasing difficulty to a ledge (some of the flakes to this point are a bit suspect). Layback over bulge to twin finger cracks. Continue thoughtfully to a narrow ledge (2nd crux) and then up the twin hand cracks before exiting via the RH crack to the rap station.&lt;br/&gt; Direct start: (21) climb directly up to the crack. Direct finish: (25) climb directly over the summit block.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" name=" In Flagrante Delicto" number="" stars="***" id="18" fa="R. Parkyn, Dec 1993.">An amazing line of sustained quality and difficulty up the RH arête of Cossack Column. Originally done in two pitches, but best done as one. Although no trad gear is needed, wires can be placed on the first pitch and near the top of the second pitch. Either scramble up to the base or abseil in from the top via the Sky Rocket rap station. Follow the line of U-bolts up the arête between Sky Rocket and Potem Tole. Belay at the rap station.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" name="Potem Tole" number="" stars="**" id="17" fa=" K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1974. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">The steep corner at the top is fabulous. Scramble up to the corner just R of Cossack Column or rap in from the top via the Sky Rocket rap station. Climb the crack for 8m (as for Voluntary Vomit), then step L onto the face and move up the parallel line to the grassy ledge at the base of a corner. Negotiate an awkward move in the corner, jam through the bulge and layback the corner above to a ledge on the L. Step L, finishing just R of Skyrocket. Belay at the rap station.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="75m" name="Voluntary Vomit" stars="" id="16" fa="I. Lewis, A. Hogarth, Feb 1974." number="">Follows the crack and groove lines immediately L of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steeply as for Battle-Axe Crack. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Up the crack on the L. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Continue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse into Battle-Axe Crack. &lt;br/&gt;3. 25m. Finish up Battle-Axe Crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="62m" name="Battle-Axe Crack" stars="" id="15" fa="M. Tillema, G. Batten, Mar 1971." number="">Just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Up the chimney on the R to belay on a chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Continue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge. 3. 12m. Scramble up to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="60m" name="Lost Arrow" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">Likely harder, this direct line involves some strenuous climbing. Start at the base of the line 2m R of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steep ground to the base of the route. &lt;br/&gt;1. 12m. Straight up the corner to a small stance. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Up the crack to a small ledge. Climb the off-width crack over a small overhang (crux) to a narrow chimney. &lt;br/&gt;3. 13m. Easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21 " length="20m" name="Nucleon" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="D. Gray, D. Rosen, Feb 1992.">An alternative to pitch 1 of The Shield, starting at the twin finger crack 4m to the L. Up finger cracks and a flake to a groove. Climb the groove to a problematic exit onto the top of the pillar. Belay in the niche as for The Shield.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="51m" name="Shield Variant" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="S. Parsons, J. Kennedy, Dec 1985.">A thinner version of pitch two of The Shield. 1. 25m 16. Climb the first pitch of The Shield. 2. 30m 24. Traverse L to the small niche and climb the finger crack to where it rejoins The Shield.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="55m" name="The Shield" number="SH" stars="**" id="11" fa="J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.">A classic route by the master himself. Starts at the narrow vee-chimney between Lost Arrow and The Sword. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 16. Climb the wide crack, then negotiate the boulder and vegetation to reach a stance. Up obvious cracks to belay in the niche. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 20. Up the overhanging wide crack (a couple of #4/#5 Camalots or equivalent are handy) and follow the great shield to a ledge. Up the corner above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="60m" name="The Sword" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.">A direct line which has become very vegetated over the years. Start at the head of the Amphitheatre 3m R of The Shield. &lt;br/&gt;1. 23m. Climb straight up the corners to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 28m. Up a corner, battle past 4m of draping vegetation (Mountain Coprosma), then up a pleasant chimney to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 9m. Up the crack above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="A3" length="20m" name="Carrot Top" number="" stars="*" id="9" fa="G. Phillips, S. Harper, Apr 1997.">A thin aid line L of The Early Bird, best accessed from above by abseiling from the double carrots (no hangers) at the top down to the same DBB as TEB. Aid directly out of the belay via the middle crack (knife blades and small cams) then a loose flake leads to a carrot. Bat hook to a rubbly ledge and then aid R through a crack. Sounds delightful.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="24" length="20m" name="The Early Bird " number="EB" stars="**" id="8" fa="A. Williams, Oct 2004.">Rap in from the Carrot Top rap station to reach a narrow ledge equipped with a DBB (fixed hangers), R of the Sword. Climb the shallow L-facing corner to the R of the belay. Well protected by small to medium cams and wires. Reputably classic, but not many have tried it due to Al's alleged fondness for sandbagging...</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21 " length="30m" name="Lunatic Eclipse " number="" stars="" id="7" fa="G. Aimer, Mar 1991.">The strenuous crack L of Richard Scraper, reached by abseiling to a ledge. The result of a mammoth cleaning effort, but unfortunately the lower crack has now regrown its vegetation (dwarf woody Coprosma, if you are a botanist!).</climb>
</guide>