<guide version="3">
  <header access="At an obvious horizontal column on the LHS of the Organ Pipes Track, head right up the boulders and climbers&apos; track to a short wall below the RH end of the ramp. Scramble up the wall for 3m to the ramp proper. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Descent: There are several rap routes on Great Tier that provide return access to the ramp. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m) provides descent for routes at the LH end of Great Tier. Clouds of Obsession has a rap station at the top of the 1st pitch (30m). The Slow Combustion rap station (1 x 50m) and the Schizophrenic rap station (1 x 25; 1 x 40m) provide egress from routes in middle of  Great Tier. Another set of rap stations (2 x 45m) descend Blue Meridian. " acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Great Tier is the big wall immediately right of Step Tier.  A fine selection of quality routes are located here and the approach is straight forward.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Zoloft Wall is a small wall located high up between Step Tier and the Great Tier prow.  A top-down and rap in approach is used to access routes.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Around the prow to the right of Zoloft Wall is the big wall, where routes are accessed via a bottom-up approach. The LH end of the big wall is split by a long chimney-corner (Nefertiti). In the middle of the wall there is a group of three major crack/chimney lines. In order from L to R they are Slow Combustion, Doldrums and Roaring Forties. Further towards the RH end, Blue Meridian ascends a clean face with white scabs. From the base of the RH end of Great Tier, a big ramp rises leftward providing convenient access. Most routes begin from this ramp. " name="Great Tier" rock="Broken dolerite cracks and faces up to 100m" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min" id="1" camping=""/>
  <text class="heading3" id="22">Zoloft Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="24">Zoloft Wall is located at the top of the cliffs between Explorer (Step Tier) and Melancholy Mania (Great Tier), and is best approached from Mt Wellington summit. Locating the climbs from the top is not easy, but is worth the effort. From the summit, head down, then right along the cliffline towards the top of Teardrop Gully near Ano's Sojourn (AS). Descend the ridge below staying left of Teardrop Gully, deviating to avoid tricky downclimbing, to emerge near the top of Sheeza and the nearby routes in Teardrop Gully. Rap in left of here using slings.</text>
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  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name="Static Journey" number="1." stars="**" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2000.">Best done on a warm summer's day. Rap down the line using slings to access the start of the route (50m). Climb the corner 3m R of the Explorer line to a ledge at 8m where Zoloft starts. Up the crack on the L (also used by Zoloft) for 14m to a large sloping ledge. Move L around the corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the thin line up the face to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Choc-o-Block" number="2." stars="" id="27" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">The wide crack system just R of Static Journey. Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Journey/Zoloft. Climb to the top of the crack and move L to the offwidth with chockstones.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Zoloft" number="3." stars="**" id="26" fa="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 1999.">Excellent exposure towards the top. Varied climbing on the face and cracks L of the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania. Access by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of line. Climb the finger crack/face off the L of the initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the L of the hanging nose/arête until one can move R into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep section following hand cracks up the middle R of the hanging face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Dynamic Journey" number="4." stars="**" id="25" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.">Terrific value. Abseil 25m to the upper of two ledges in common with Zoloft and Static Journey. From the RH side of the ledge and R of the hanging arête/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) to the overhang (1m L of Melancholy Mania). Follow the hand crack up the R of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the wall on the R to the top.</climb>
  <text id="34" class="text">The next route originally started as for Peacepipe on Step Tier. The first pitch is best avoided and substituted by climbing the first 8m of Tsing Gai then traversing left around the prow via ledges to the start of pitch 2.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16/17" length="100m" name="Melancholy Mania" number="5." stars="" id="21" fa="K. Bischoff, J. Barnett, A. Wing, Mar 1981. Variant: C. Allen, D. James, Jan 2012.">Sounds depressing! The dark chimney corner R of Dynamic Journey. The vegetated 1st pitch can be avoided completely.&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. (Original route). Start up the chimney corner, as for Peacepipe, for 15m then step R and scramble up grassy ledges to belay at the foot of the chimney. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 50m 17. (Variant). A less vegetated alternative to the original second pitch that takes the rib of rock to the L. Climb the shallow corner and cracks on the nose of rock 4m to the L, continuing past a loose, blocky section, moving R and up thin cracks to rejoin Melancholy Mania at the belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 45m. (Original route). Climb easily up the chimney, taking care with jammed blocks. At 40m, mantle on two large blocks into a cave. Chimney and bridge out around a large chockstone to belay on a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m 16. Climb the RH crack for 3m then move L into the middle one. Continue jamming up, then chimney out past a chockstone and finish through a hole behind some jammed blocks.</climb>
  <text id="38" class="heading3">Suicide Sadness Area</text>
  <text id="39" class="text">The next climbs all start at the the LH end of the big L trending ramp below Great Tier. Originally, a number of routes started with an initial pitch below the ramp, although they are seldom climbed that way now. See the Zoloft Wall topo for the line of Tsing Gai..</text>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Tsing Gai" number="6." stars="*" id="20" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Mar 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1981.">Ought to receive more attention. Located in an exposed position just L of the prow of Great Tier, between Melancholy Mania and Janzoon. &lt;br/&gt;1. 8m. Climb up and L to a ledge and belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Up the wall above taking the LH line to the top of some dubious flakes. Finger-jam the bulge and continue up the crack system until one can make a spectacular step R around the arête to Janzoon Ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 32m. Step back around the arête and climb the thin crack just L of the arête to the top. Traverse back R to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).</climb>
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  <climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="68m" name="Janzoon" stars="**" id="19" fa="I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan 1974." number="1.">A thoughtful crack and corner climb just R of the prow that is a credible companion line to Suicide Sadness. &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m. Up to the ledge on L and move in behind the tea-tree. Up the flakes above (again, watch for a loose block or two) and climb the RH line (a L-facing corner). Bridge and jam the crack (#4 friend size) to small roof. Around this and up to negotiate the final bulge to a belay ledge (shared with Suicide Sadness). &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Move up and R before stepping back out L round the masive flake, and up to gain access to the twin cracks above. Take the LH line pull L around the bulge and up the groove. Traverse 2m R just before the top around a detached pillar to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Massacre Madness" stars="*" id="18" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, May 1996." number="2.">A merger of the first pitches of Janzoon and Suicide Sadness. Climb to the crux of Suicide Sadness (just after the blocks, at 15m). Instead of mantling up R to the ledge as you would for Suicide Sadness, step L and climb the face to the Janzoon ledge. Protection is a little problematic, but adequate.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="60m" name="Suicide Sadness" number="3." stars="**" id="17" fa="M. Law, S. Parsons, D. Bowman, 1978.">A thought-provoking face route and corner between Janzoon and Nefertiti. The "temporary" nature of the rock in the initial 15m detracts a little from the overall quality. RP's are the go in protecting this section. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Climb past the large ledge on L, as for Janzoon, but then continue straight up, passing some very loose blocks and thin face moves (crux) to the bottom of RH facing corner. Climb the corner/crack toward the roof, and 3m below this traverse L to belay ledge (shared with Janzoon). &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Move back R to arête and climb through the roof to the twin cracks above. Take the RH line to the belay ledge with rap station. The abseil (1 x 58m) requires an 8m down-climb at the bottom to regain the ramp if using 50m ropes.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Terror Firmer" number="4." stars="*" id="16" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Apr 2000.">A difficult variant finish to Suicide Sadness (SS). Instead of climbing through the roof on the 2nd pitch of SS, under-cling out R below the roof and climb the seam above to access the rap station as for Suicide Sadness.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Thirsty Thirties" stars="" id="15" fa="D. Stephenson, D. Bruce, Apr 1989." number="5.">One of the exceptions that starts at the base of the cliff proper and finishes at the ramp. It takes a prominent crack splitting the wall directly under Suicide Sadness and just L of a dead tree. &lt;br/&gt;1. 5m. Boulder or climb a short wall to a scrubby ledge at the base of the crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m. Climb the wall and thin crack past the loose block (crux). Bridge up the easy corner to belay on the ramp. Walk off R via the big ramp.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="60m" name="Nefertiti" number="6." stars="**" id="14" fa="J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1968.">The controversial bolt belay at the end of the first pitch could see an increase in traffic on this old trad line. Start at the chimney-corner near the L edge of the Tier, just R of Suicide Sadness and L of the black streaked wall of Clouds of Obsession. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Bridge the wide chimney (being cautious of the odd loose block) and belay on a ledge to the R with a DBB. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Step back into the chimney. Continue to just below the massive wedged chockstone, then traverse L 4m to a hakea bush and a small ledge, and the Suicide Sadness rap station</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="70m" name="Clouds of Obsession" number="7." stars="**" id="13" fa=" (1) N. Deka, et al. (2) D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.">The black streaked wall directly across R of Nefertiti offers an excellent pitch. Starts from the ramp at a wall, 3m R of Nefertiti. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 22. Climb the black streaked wall to belay on a small ledge with a large Hakea bush. Three pins (renewed 2006) help with protection, although other pro is available. Quit while you are ahead and abseil off here (rap station, 30m) or: &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m 16. Step around L and climb the hand crack, or go straight up the wall above the belay. Continue up until forced L into Nefertiti, which is followed to the top. Descend as for Suicide Sadness.</climb>
  <text id="29" class="heading3">Blue Meridian Area</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="66m" name="Passiona" number="8." stars="" id="12" fa="V. Kennedy, J. Moore, Jan 1968.">Originally climbed after the 1967 fires, this route takes the big chimney and gully R of Clouds of Obsession. However, like a number of other old routes on the Pipes, it now appears to be completely choked up by regrowth and is probably too bushy to be worth climbing. Start from the big ramp. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Crux. Climb the small overhanging chimney above for 16m and step R onto the wall at the overhang. Go over loose blocks to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 36m. Climb the scrubby gully taking the LH alternative.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="G Pillar" length="30m" grade="15" fa="J. Nermut, T. McKenny, D. Humphries, Dec 2010." stars="*" extra="↓" number="9.">The pillar between Clouds of Obsession and Slow Combustion offers well protected climbing on good holds. Start a couple of metres L of Slow Combustion under a clean corner. Up the corner and line above keeping L of the bush. From the ledge step L onto the arête and follow it up past the second bush to the top of the pillar. From here either traverse 4m L to the Clouds of Obsession chains, or head up and R to the second belay of Slow Combustion and continue up that.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="16" length="52m" name="Slow Combustion" number="10." stars="**" id="11" fa="P. Robinson, Basil Rathbone, Nov 1979, Alt start: H. Jackson, 1998.">A 2012 manicure has restored what has always been a fine mid-grade route. The route once continued for a further 30m, however this top section is now so full of alpine shrubbery no one bothers climbing it. Start 3m L of Doldrums. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 20m 15. Up the wall to the orange overhang and pass it on the L. Take the RH of two cracks and jam until one can step R onto the face. Belay on a small ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1b. 20m 16. Alternate Start: Climb the blocky wall to the R straight up to the middle of the roof, taking care with loose blocks. Hand traverse out L on good holds (crux) to join the original route on the face above. &lt;br/&gt;2. 32m 15. Follow the thin crack straight up the delicate face to a large ledge. Follow the line near the L arête and up through a short chimney to exit on a ledge with a DBB . A 50m rap off will get you to the ground.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Twist in My Sobriety" length="50m" grade="18" fa="Pitches 1 and 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011, Pitch 3: I. Snape, T. McKenny, Jan 2012." stars="*" extra="↓" number="11.">Takes a steep eliminate line (the line of the Slow Combustion abseil in fact) up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the large roof to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Alternative Start. &lt;br/&gt;1. 32m 18. Up the stacked loose blocks to the middle of the roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up and slightly R onto the steep face above, climbing past a suspect flake to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 8m 16. Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Pitch 3, if you have the large gear, or traverse 3m R to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m 17. Up the crack that splits the face to the small overhang. Climb the off-width using the RH wall. A couple of large cams (4.5 or 5) help restore some equanimity. Rap off as for Slow Combustion.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="140m" name="Doldrums" stars="" id="10" fa="J. Moore, M. Tillema, May 1968. Direct start: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, R. Rolls, 1979." number="12.">The middle crack of the obvious trio on Great Tier. To start, either scramble up the ramp from the R to the base of the line (pitch 2) or climb the direct start up to the ramp. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Direct start: Up the steep face on small holds to the start of the crack. &lt;br/&gt;2. 24m. Jam around the overhang and belay on a ledge beneath some cutting grass. &lt;br/&gt;3. 24m. Climb the crack then the chimney, moving L at a small overhang, to belay at the base of an obvious crack. &lt;br/&gt;4. 36m. Climb the crack and after passing a bush, continue on sloping ledges to easier ground. &lt;br/&gt;5. 36m. Scramble to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="32" stars="**" name="Schizophrenic" length="65m" grade="21" extra="Þ ↓" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012." number="13.">Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 20. Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 FH to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 21. Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 FH to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m 21. Move left from the belay and up the black groove, then pleasant face climbing to the top. 9FH to DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="15" length="84m" name="Roaring Forties" stars="**" id="9" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977." number="14.">A recent makeover to remove the verdant scrub has restored a worthy mid-grade classic. The prominent chimney line on the R of the Tier midway between Schizophrenic and Blue Meridian. &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m. From the ramp, 4m L of Blue Meridian, climb the chimney past a large flake. At 12m, directly below the trees, move L for 3m, then up the black juggy wall to a steep corner. Layback up this and trend back R into the chimney and up to belay below a large leaning chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;2. 46m. Step carefully onto the chockstone, climb the thought provoking chimney and up a narrowing section to a large ledge that extends leftward. Climb the steep corner directly above the chimney. At the top move R for 4m to the Blue Meridian top rap station. The route once continued for another pitch but regrowth now discourages this option.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="124m" name="Feeble Fifties" stars="" id="8" fa="Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Oct 1981." number="15.">Scramble up to the base of the Roaring Forties line to start. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. Climb cracks in the wall R of the chimney before traversing L into the Roaring Forties belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Continue up for a few metres and take an obvious traverse line R across the face to the next major line. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Up the wall via the crack on the L. &lt;br/&gt;4. 40m. Up the wide chimney awkwardly via scrubby ledges to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Shaky Flakes" stars="" id="7" fa="D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, 1983." number="16.">On the small wall at the top of Great Tier, above Blue Meridian and Slime Time. Climb the crack system on the wall L of the scrubby corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="90m" name="Blue Meridian" number="17." stars="***" id="6" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1985.">Two quality pitches of clearly differing character give this popular route its reputation. From the RH end of big ramp where it is most eroded, start at a short vee-groove below some conspicuous horizontal white scabs. &lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Climb the vee-groove and the line above. Move R slightly and up between the white scabs past an odd mantle and up to a ledge. Climb the L edge of large flake and up to DBB. Copious wires protect this pitch. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m. Continue up the crack and over thought-provoking bulge to gain a ledge. Up to the next ledge using a large block on the LHS. Layback to negotiate the bottomless chimney (crux). Continue to belay ledge and DBB. Descend via rap stations (2 x 45m).</climb>
  <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="90m" name="Slime Time" stars="*" id="5" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988." number="">Better than it sounds, except after rain. Start at the far RH side of Great Tier and just L of the gully, below a prominent hand crack halfway up the cliff.&lt;br/&gt;1. 45m. Climb the wall L of the gully, aiming for the base of the hand crack to belay on a small ledge with a dead tree. &lt;br/&gt;2. 45m. Traverse R into the crack and move up this past a thin section involving flared finger jams (crux). Climb the arête above when the crack ends to belay on a large ledge just below the top. Abseil off as for Blue Meridian or climb to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ ↓" grade="23" length="23m" name="Shrapnel" number="" stars="*" id="4" fa="A. Williams, C. Godfrey, Mar 2008.">Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just R of Great Tier (below the Arena). The route starts about 5m R of where the Great Tier access track heads up onto the L leading ramp where the other Great Tier routes start. Layback the pillar for 5m to a ledge, step L climb the face trending R to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required.</climb>
</guide>