<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="The Drive: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4-5hrs drive from Hobart followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there, drive to Queenstown then follow the main Murchison Highway north past the Strahan junction toward Rosebery. Approx. 13km from Queenstown you will get to the Anthony Road turnoff on the right. Take this and follow it for another 10-11km until you reach a gravel car park on the right. The driving is now over and the walking begins. The Walk: The walk up into the Tyndall's is typical of many of the walks in the southwest, steep, muddy, ill defined (at the end) and too long! Follow the track till it peters out then follow a compass bearing directly east until you reach the cliff - see diagram below. Note: Being one of the wettest places in Tasmania the weather here can be extremely changeable so take warm clothes, wet weather gear and a GPS/compass even if the weather is perfect when you set out."
acknowledgement="By Kim Robinson" history=""
intro="Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy, the scope for sport and traditional routes here is enormous. Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including Garn Cooper over several trips established a mixed free and aid route up this main face. More recently Adam Donaghue pushed another aid line up the middle of the cliff and climbed the awesome free route - Deeper Water."
name="Tyndall Range" new="false"
rock="Slabby to past vertical conglomerate up to 300m"
sun="Mixed sun and shade"
walk="2-3 hours, steep muddy uphill"/><gps new="true"><point
code="TYN000" description="Tyndall range carpark"
easting="380893" height="509" northing="5356525"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN010"
description="Track Start (junction with Transmission Line Access Rd)"
easting="381398" height="528" northing="5356599"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN020"
description="High point of track (at start of Plateau)"
easting="383833" height="1103" northing="5356475"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN100"
description="Bivvy Cave beside tarns" easting="383846"
height="1108" northing="5355936" zone="55G"/><point
code="TYN200" description="Raindancer; Top rap anchors"
easting="384138" height="1037" northing="5355850"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN201"
description="Raindancer; Walk down from here (then skirt around to anchors)"
easting="384065" height="1079" northing="5355855"
zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="tyndalls.png" width=""></image><text
class="heading2">Mt Tyndall</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="12"
length="12m" name="Bunny Ears" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Either abseil or scramble to the base, Pleasant climbing up the short wall. FA Claire Hewer, March 2005">Either abseil or scramble to the base, Pleasant climbing up the short wall. FA Claire Hewer, March 2005</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bunny Hop" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. FA Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. FA Kim Robinson, March 2005</climb><image
src="tyndallsmall.jpg" width=""/><text
class="heading2">Lake Huntley</text><text class="text"
new="false"
value="To do - write up Leap of Faith, Deeper Water, and The Healer.">To do - write up Leap of Faith, Deeper Water, and The Healer.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="80m" name="Rain Dancer" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it. Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! FA. Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it.
Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws.
Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! FA. Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26 (23A0)" length="135m" name="Big City Life"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped.
Access: As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush continue with two more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around un-roped on.
Suggested Gear: Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from fingers to #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.
1) 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted
2) 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating rising water carved feature. Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab. Belay on comfy ledge.
3) 30m 18. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.
4) 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.
5) 15m 15. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.
Equipped: Simon Young. FA: Simon Young and John Fischer, 22 Jan 2008
Urban Sprawl Variants:
2b) 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.
4b) 35m 18. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left into BCL across slab. FA team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not recommended. FA: John Fischer (2b) and Simon Young (4b).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" name="Bleeding Ferals Prow" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us!
Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff).
Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted.
FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 6.1.2006</climb><image
src="huntelysmall.jpg" width=""/></guide>
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