<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><header
access="The Drive: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4-5hrs drive from Hobart followed by 2-3hrs walk. To get there from Hobart, drive to Queenstown then follow the main road north towards Rosebury, drive past the Strahan turnoff. At 13km from Queenstown you will get to a right turn onto the B28. Take this and follow it for another 11km until you reach a gravel road on the right. Park just before the gate (be sure not to block the gate). The driving is now over and the walking begins. Walk on the 4WD road past the gate, over bridge and after about 600m turn left onto another road. After another 200m you will see a walking register box which marks the start of the track through the bush. After some mud and scrub the track follows an open and well trodden path for most of the gain up the hill. There is a reliable stream off to the left about half way up the hill just past the large boulder. Sidle the mountain top on button grass till the track gets less obvious. Now it's worth taking your bearings as you need to break from the walking track and head ENE (the turnoff point is about the same point as when the ridge to the left of the track becomes less steep and the walkers track starts to descend up ahead). Head for a slight saddle, then once through this go past the large block with quartz veins on the right. Next the peaknof '1037' will appear, there is a large white quartz boulder on the left shoulder of the peak (this is near the bivy cave) See diagram below."
acknowledgement="By Kim Robinson, Adam Donoghue"
history="Several years ago Doug Fife realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including most of Tasmania's willing tried to find a route that would go. The cliff proved a formidible challenge with years and partners passing by before a route was pioneered up the large striking corner of the main face. During this period Adam Donoghue began a long distance relationship with the direct line of 'The Healer'. The crux pitch through the amazing overhanging prow took three shifts of lead and over 15 hours to establish - such is the difficulty of new routing in the Tyndalls. Then in 2005 Adam was back with Gareth Llewellin to establish a route that indicated the potential for quality long and sustained free routes with the climb 'Deeper Water'. There are many lines in waiting, though the effort and commitment required will stop all but the die hard suffer-fest junkies out there."
intro="Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its infancy, it will no doubt be the scene of some more hard and long free and aid routes for next generation. It's a fantastic area for a walk some great camping and offers unique climbing in a pictureeque setting above a 1km wide lake. The climbs here are all hard earned; with the approach, logistics of getting to the base, and the challenge of getting back up all contributing to a good sense of satisfaction...post ascent.<br/>The angle is often slabby on the surrounding buttresses, while the main face feels steeper with most terrain around vertical and a few overhanging sections thrown in to add to the exposure. The rock is conglomerate and is very compact due to glaciation in the area. <br/>Being located on the West Coast of Tasmania, the Tyndall Range is best enjoyed from November to April during a solid weather forecast. Take winter clothing and good rainwear as the weather can change rapidly - even in summer. Also a map/compass or a GPS are needed to get to the cliff. An important thing to remember here is that this is a very special spot for local bushwalkers so please make an extra effort to minimize your impact. One of the more striking things about being in the area is the unspoilt nature of the surroundings - please keep it this way.<br/>"
name="Tyndall Range" new="false"
rock="Slabby to past vertical conglomerate up to 300m"
sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="2-3 hours, steep uphill"/><text
class="indentedHeader"
new="false">Camping: Camping info.</text><gps new="true"><point
code="TYN000" description="Tyndall range carpark"
easting="380893" height="509" northing="5356525"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN010"
description="Track Start (junction with Transmission Line Access Rd)"
easting="381398" height="528" northing="5356599"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN020"
description="High point of track (at start of Plateau)"
easting="383833" height="1103" northing="5356475"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN100"
description="Bivvy Cave beside tarns" easting="383846"
height="1108" northing="5355936" zone="55G"/><point
code="TYN200" description="Raindancer; Top rap anchors"
easting="384138" height="1037" northing="5355850"
zone="55G"/><point code="TYN201"
description="Raindancer; Walk down from here (then skirt around to anchors)"
easting="384065" height="1079" northing="5355855"
zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"
src="tyndallsMap.png" width=""/><text
class="heading2">Mt Tyndall</text><climb extra="Þ" grade="12"
length="12m" name="Bunny Ears" new="false" number="1." stars=""
value="Either abseil or scramble to the base, Pleasant climbing up the short wall. FA Claire Hewer, March 2005">Either abseil or scramble to the base, pleasant climbing up the short wall. Claire Hewer, March 2005</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="17" length="15m" name="Bunny Hop" new="false"
number="2." stars=""
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. FA Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. Kim Robinson, March 2005</climb><image
src="tyndallsmall.jpg" width=""/><text
class="heading2">Lake Huntley</text><text class="heading3"
new="false">Main Face</text><text class="text" new="false"
value="To do - write up Leap of Faith, Deeper Water, and The Healer.">The main face of Lake Huntley is a very impressive steep cliff up to 300m high. The following routes are on the main face, and need full descriptions (waiting for Adam!).</text><climb
extra="" grade="22 A3" length="200m" name="Leap of Faith"
new="false" number="" stars=""/><climb extra="" grade="27"
length="305m" name="Deeper Water" new="false" number=""
stars="***">Suggested Rack: one set wires, cams from blue Alien to #1 Camalot (or similar), 10 draws + 6 longer draws, double ropes handy. Start at the right side of the main wall where the terraces on the R meet the sheer main face and at a small bush.
1) 50m 27. 'The Drowning Pitch'. Follow easy flakes and cracks for 10m until a traverse L across a flake leads you to the business above. The climbing is sustained and technical with a number of hard sections sure to act as a good gate keeper and a worthy test piece. A few wires and small cams are needed in a few places. A memorable and absorbing lead!
2) 20m 21. Head up from belay, then up a crack system to belay with #.75 Camalot and a FH.
3) 45m 24. Up the left facing flake until it runs out then head R with exciting moves to the the left side of a large flake. Follow......... to be continued</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22 A3" length="200m" name="The Healer"
new="false" number="" stars=""/><text class="heading3"
new="false">Rain Dancer Area</text><text class="text"
new="false">The following routes are on the various cliffs to the right of the main face.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="80m" name="Rain Dancer" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it. Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! FA. Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005">Scramble down to the top of the climb, two 40m abseils will bring you to the base of it.
Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in the bright conglomerate) on your way down as once you've pulled your abseil ropes there is no other way out unless you have some natural gear! Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26 (23A0)" length="135m" name="Big City Life"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped.
Access: As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush continue with two more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around un-roped on.
Suggested Gear: Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from fingers to #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.
1) 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted
2) 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating rising water carved feature. Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab. Belay on comfy ledge.
3) 30m 18. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.
4) 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.
5) 15m 15. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.
Simon Young and John Fischer, 22 Jan 2008
Urban Sprawl Variants:
2b) 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.
4b) 35m 18. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left into BCL across slab. FA team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not recommended. John Fischer (2b) and Simon Young (4b).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="" name="Bleeding Ferals Prow"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two bolts with us!
Located on end of second buttress north east of camping cave over looking the lake. This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam slot is about 5m back from this bolt anchor and should be used to backup this bolt anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are keen!). This is the second ledge down the route and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge (facing cliff).
Up left side of prow (no gear) to gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once retrobolted.
Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie Jan 2006.</climb><image
src="huntelysmall.jpg" width=""/></guide>
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