<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
<header access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice." acknowledgement="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location." name="Little Bluestone Bay" rock="White granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5-30 mins" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
<image noPrint="false" src="coles bay little bluestone.jpg" width="" id="2" height="209"/>
<text class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="135" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="3">Lego Area</text>
<text class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="136" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="4">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="King Constipator" number="" stars="***" id="5" fa="N.Hancock, A.Bissett (alt), Aug 2001.">Start at the hanging arête below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1. 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2. 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Lego" number="" stars="*" id="6" fa="N.Deka, Apr 1988.">Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Demolition Darby" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="P.Darby, Apr 1988.">Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="8">The following climb is located a further 50m left of Lego Buttress proper:</text>
<climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="I See You Baby (Shakin' that Ass)" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001.">The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="10">Rubik's Cube</text>
<text class="text" id="11">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="12">The Orange Face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Analysis, Statistics" number="1." stars="" id="13" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Interval" number="2." stars="" id="14" fa="D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989.">Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="15">The Yellow Face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="The Horror" number="3." stars="" id="16" fa="J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989.">Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Blinking Idiot" number="4." stars="*" id="17" fa="R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996.">The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="18">The Green Face: next right</text>
<climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Snakes, Ladders" number="5." stars="" id="19" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Difficult to protect.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Bill's Climb" number="6." stars="*" id="20" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Up steep hand crack starting in the corner.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="a+b" number="7." stars="" id="21" fa="D.Bruce, Mar 1989.">A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Easy Solo" number="8." stars="" id="22" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989."/>
<climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Digit" number="9." stars="*" id="23" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Spirit of Place" number="10." stars="**" id="24" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989.">Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Soft Grit" number="11." stars="*" id="25" fa="N. Selby, Apr 2001.">The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Tangent" number="12." stars="" id="26" fa="N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="27">The Black Face: the next face right</text>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="28" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Fractional" number="13." stars="" id="28" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="10" guide.action="submit" guide.id="29" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Pink Solo" number="14." stars="" id="29" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989.">Easy face.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="30" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Denominator" number="15." stars="" id="30" fa="N. Deka, Mar 1989.">Obvious arête about 5m left of Rhomboid.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="31" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Rhomboid" number="16." stars="" id="31" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989.">The arête immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks.</climb>
<climb grade="22" length="10m" name="Dynamo Hum" number="17." stars="" id="32" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989.">Climb the steep wall just right of the crack.</climb>
<climb grade="22" length="10m" name="Left Crack" number="18." stars="" id="33" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989.">Climb the overhanging crack.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Geometry" number="19." stars="" id="34" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Hypothetical" number="20." stars="" id="35" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989.">Up right arête. Take crack to top.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="36">The Red Face: Again the next face right.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="8" guide.action="submit" guide.id="37" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Roxanne's Corner" number="22." stars="" id="37" fa="Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989.">The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="D Squared + r" number="23." stars="" id="38" fa="D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989.">Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Logarithm" number="24." stars="" id="39" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989.">The far right arête. Excellent crack climbing.</climb>
<text class="text" id="40">Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay, with two bolted routes.</text>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="" length="8m" name="Project" number="1." stars="" id="41">Project. Left line of bolts. S. Young</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="8m" name="Low-Flyer" number="2." stars="*" id="42" fa="S.Young 2006">Right line of bolts. Steep face climbing to lower-off.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="43">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text>
<text class="description" id="44">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in, but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragammatron. It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous.</text>
<image noPrint="false" src="coles bay tetragrammatron.jpg" width="" id="45" legend="true" legendx="300" legendy="15" legendTitle="Tetragrammaton" height="526">
<legend>48</legend>
<legend>49</legend>
<legend>50</legend>
<legend>51</legend>
<legend>52</legend>
<legend>54</legend>
</image>
<climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="35m" name="The Drivel Dies" number="1." stars="" id="46" fa="D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994.">To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top.</climb>
<climb grade="21" length="40m" name="The Devil Drives" number="2." stars="" id="47" fa="E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982.">To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" number="3." stars="" id="48" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">This whole route is slightly overhung. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m. 1 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantelshelf and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney. 2. 15m. Continue straight up offwidth.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="46" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="The Little Red Hen" number="4." stars="*" id="49" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">The crack right of the above. Quite hard. Second pitch as above.</climb>
<climb grade="22" length="12m" name="Chicken Surprise" number="5." stars="" id="50" fa="Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996.">A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="Tetragrammaton" number="6." stars="**" id="51" fa="J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981.">A good hard climb. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to the bottom. Start here. 1. 25m. Straight forward jamming with a couple of awkward moves around the bulge. 2. 15m. Start with difficult thin crack, then follow overhanging jam crack to top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="No More Mr Nice Guy" number="7." stars="***" id="52" fa="J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994.">A great route, one of the best at the grade. The climbing is varied and the protection very good. At the lowest point of the arete right of Tetragamatron. 1. 25m. follow cracks to half height then hand traverse left onto the ledge of Tetragamatron. 2. 15m. Either continue as for Tetragamatron pitch 2 (21), or more easily scamble left along ledge and up.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="48m" name="Exocet" number="8." stars="***" id="53" fa="G. Phillips and S.Young 2007.">A total classic. 1. 18m 17. Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to DBB. 2. 18m 26. The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another DBB. 3. 10m 17. The nice hand and offwidth to the top.</climb>
<climb id="125" stars="***" extra="" number="" name="Down Under" length="18" grade="25" fa="Garry Phillips and Alex Lewis way back in 2008 i think">From a small stance near the water climb out to reach the belay of Exocet.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="Edge of the World" number="9." stars="" id="54" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994.">This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="55">Alchemy Wall</text>
<text class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="52" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="56">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text>
<text class="text" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="57">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text>
<image id="127" src="coles bay alchemy - new.jpg" height="635" legend="true" legendx="7" legendy="7" legendTitle="Alchemy Wall">
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</image>
<climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="55" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="17m" name="Monte Carlo" number="1." stars="" id="59" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981.">Left of the main Alchemy Face, on the left end of the seaward facing wall about 10m left of Coolibah Crack. The off-width corner. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="56" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Evelyn's Climb" number="2." stars="" id="60" fa="Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982.">The route left of Coolibah Crack, just right of Monte Carlo. Starts as a tight overhanging hand crack to good hands and easier climbing.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="57" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Coolibah Crack" number="3." stars="**" id="61" fa="J. Fantini, R. McMahon, Oct 1981.">The climb is located round left on Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up face with an orange hue. Awkward balance moves up initial flaring groove coming out onto leftward leaning crack up steep face.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Immaculate Misconception" number="4." stars="***" id="62" fa="N. Hancock, A. Bissett, Aug 2001.">The arête right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arête to the overlap, turn this and head up the right side of the arête to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="58" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Hermes Trismegistus" number="5." stars="**" id="64" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face provides steep and sustained climbing for its length. Take care with friends in the inward flaring crack, hexes are very useful if you still own any.</climb>
<climb grade="22" length="20m" name="Hermes Playmate" number="6." stars="*" id="63" fa="Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 1995." extra="">Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left few metres then up for 4m. Finish up the seam.</climb>
<climb id="128" stars="**" extra="" number="7." name="Hermes Direct Finish" length="25" grade="23" fa="Alex Lewis Aug 2013">Climb Hermes to two-thirds height then head direct up the blocky corner (crux) and thin crack above</climb>
<climb grade="25" length="20m" name="Captivating Passions" number="8." stars="*" id="65" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999." extra="">Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Climb this past the bolts to the top (no lower-offs so back-jump or rap of a tree).</climb>
<climb id="126" stars="**" extra="" number="9." name="Ockham's Razor" length="20m" grade="27" fa="Simon Bischoff, August 2013">Pure slab in the middle of alchemy wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams to climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place # 3 Camalot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" length="18m" name="Walking the Plank Direct Finish" number="10." stars="**" id="66" fa="G. Phillips & J. Bresnehan Sep 2007.">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="62" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Walking the Plank" number="11." stars="**" id="67" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.">The crack system right of Captivating Passions. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing a rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Blue-eyed Blonde" number="12." stars="***" id="68" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981.">Follow cracks to bulge, just right of Walking the Plank. Over bulge to top. Good pro.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="63" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Alchemy" number="13." stars="***" id="69" fa="John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 1981.">The next crack system right. Thin moves at start easing off to good flake edge, then a reach for a ledge. Mantel crux followed by finger/hand crack.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="70">Alchemy Ramp</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="71">The next climbs are located on the ramp above Alchemy Wall.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Fools Gold" number="14." stars="" id="72" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="28" length="15m" name="Exquisite Tenderness" number="15." stars="*" id="73" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999.">The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="22" length="20m" name="L'Obsession" number="16." stars="**" id="74" fa="N.Selby 7 Jun 2003.">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Silver and Gold" number="" stars="" id="75" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.">About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arête. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Haliaeetus Leucogaster" number="" stars="" id="76" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001.">Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="77">Second Ramp</text>
<text class="description" id="78">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Struck Off " number="" stars="" id="79" fa="Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar 2003.">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top.</climb>
<climb grade="18" length="12m" name="Dodgy Ringpulls" number="" stars="" id="80" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.">Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top.</climb>
<climb grade="12" length="15m" name="Double Deka" number="" stars="" id="81" fa="Nick Deka solo.">About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker.</climb>
<climb grade="15" length="16m" name="Firewalker" number="" stars="" id="82" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981.">The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Awkward moves in initial corner. Finish up easy slab.</climb>
<climb grade="19" length="15m" name="Ogma Sun Face" number="" stars="***" id="83" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">The next line downhill and 3m right. Mainly finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the easy slab.</climb>
<climb grade="17" length="15m" name="Steel Springs" number="" stars="**" id="84" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection.</climb>
<climb grade="22" length="15m" name="Curious Fanatic" number="" stars="**" id="85" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks.</climb>
<climb grade="21" length="10m" name="First in First Served" number="" stars="*" id="86" fa="Robert McMahon, Mar 1989.">About 3m left of Easy Corner, is a short overhanging face right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top.</climb>
<climb grade="10" length="10m" name="Easy Corner" number="" stars="" id="87" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981.">The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="88">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text>
<climb grade="12" length="15m" name="Mathonwy" number="" stars="" id="89" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later.</climb>
<climb grade="12" length="15m" name="Doesn't Matter" number="" stars="" id="90" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981.">Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="91">First Ramp</text>
<text class="description" id="92">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text>
<climb grade="18" length="10m" name="Bearded Clam Corner" number="" stars="*" id="93" fa="Neale Smith, 1981.">The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="86" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" number="" stars="*" id="94" fa="R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989.">The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection.</climb>
<climb grade="17" length="10m" name="Triptolemus" number="" stars="" id="95" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981.">Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="88" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="22m" name="Velchanos (Demon)" number="" stars="" id="96" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981.">Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained.</climb>
<climb grade="17" length="22m" name="Whinging Poms" number="" stars="" id="97" fa="D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 1990.">The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose).</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="90" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="23m" name="Feed the Man Meat" number="" stars="" id="98" fa="Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 1989.">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection.</climb>
<climb grade="16" length="22m" name="Taliesin" number="" stars="" id="99" fa="Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 1981.">On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="92" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Ygdrassill" number="" stars="" id="100" fa="Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 1981.">On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Furless" number="" stars="" id="101" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997.">To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="102">Travel Land</text>
<text class="description" id="103">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="8m" name="Wild Willy" number="" stars="*" id="104" fa="G Phillips, May 2003.">The overhanging arête left of Hugs n Kisses.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="96" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Hugs 'n' Kisses" number="" stars="" id="105" fa="Jay Audenart, 1998.">Off-width.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="8m" name="Red Line" number="" stars="*" id="106" fa="G Phillips, Feb 2003.">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="Tribute" number="" stars="**" id="107" fa="N.Selby 12 Oct 2002">Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" length="14m" name="Ekeko" number="" stars="*" id="108" fa="N.Selby, 25 Aug 2002">Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="12m" name="The Path of the Enigma" number="" stars="" id="109" fa="N.Selby, 12 Oct 2002">Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts.</climb>
<climb grade="16" length="12m" name="Panchamama" number="" stars="" id="110" fa="N.Selby, C.Walker, E.Bradley, A.Williams">Off-width. Good fun.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="111">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text>
<climb extra="3Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="103" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" number="" stars="" id="112" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="501 Bodega" number="" stars="" id="113" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">The arête with 2 u-bolts plus gear.</climb>
<climb grade="21" length="10m" name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus" number="" stars="" id="114" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002.">Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt.</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Natural Athlete in a Barrel" number="" stars="**" id="115" fa="Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke & Duncan MacGregor Dec 2008.">The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="116">Sentry Box</text>
<text class="text" id="117">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Sentry Box" number="" stars="*" id="118" fa="F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980.">On the left hand arête at the base of the buttress. Up slightly left of the arête with some awkward balance moves to gain a shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams.</climb>
<climb id="124" name="The Sentinel" grade="21" length="15m" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst, Nov 1997.">Start as for Sentry Box. Climb the Sentry Box, continuing straight up the arête (crux), where Sentry Box escapes right (RPs).</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Fridge Magnet" number="" stars="**" id="119" fa="Nick Hancock Nov 2004.">Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 bolts to a single bolt lower-off.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Rainbow Groove" number="" stars="" id="120" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst.">The slim groove on the left arête. Protected by RP's.</climb>
<climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Shogun" number="" stars="*" id="121" fa="N Selby 28 Dec 2003.">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="122">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text>
<climb grade="19" length="40m" name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust" number="" stars="" id="123" fa="P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 1988.">Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height.</climb>
</guide>
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