<guide version="3">
<header autonumber="true" camping="" id="1" access="The Hazards Main Wall is about 1 - 1.5km (or 20 minutes) south of Sleepy Bay car park. From the car park follow the well-worn track beyond Little Gravelly Beach to the point where the Sea-level and the Skyline Traverse diverge. From here the Sea-level Traverse provides the quickest access to routes left of Epaminondas, while routes to its right are best approached by a higher traverse line which leaves the Skyline Traverse further up the hill. Use the Skyline Traverse to descend. Generally more compact, the climbs right of The Laughing Jackass are less than 140m high and well defined, but Japhlion etc. are 250m high and not well defined because they pick the nice slabs amongst the confusion. It is best to identify Full Sail, Stud City & Japhlion, and work from these to locate the other climbs. The cliff faces east. The above access description appears in the old guide and is kind of ok if you know where you're going. Many of the routes do not finish at the top of the cliff, but require a bit of a scramble to get there. Allow enough time for this route finding when setting off. Descents are very epic in the dark. Any new descriptions are very welcome." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="" name="Hazards Main Wall" rock="Pink, slabby granite, up to 300m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="5 - 30 min"/>
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<climb id="4" name="Skyline Traverse" fa="Not known" stars="" length="8hrs" grade="2-3" extra="" number="1.">No gear required except possibly water: there is a fixed abseil point along the way but this can be bypassed. Can be done in either direction and involves steep technical scrambling and advanced navigation skills. The polished sections of granite can be very slippery after rain but the friction is usually phenomenal!<br/>Start at the Sleepy Bay car park and follow the track which heads south along the coast past Little Gravelly Beach. After the boot cleaning area, follow the slabs for about 300m to a cairned route which heads steeply up the hill before the remnants of a white dotted line begins. Follow the faint dotted line over Mt Parsons, past a massive bivvy cave, until it ceases on Mt Baudin. Navigation from here is difficult as the obvious way to Mt Dove is blocked by deep ravines and massive boulders. Either abseil in and find a way south through the boulders and scrub or scramble west down a gully till you can traverse back south. When back on the skyline, continue south, down to the col between Mt Baudin and Mt Dove and then steeply up to the summit of Dove. The difficulties aren't over here as the steep scramble down the slabs and corners to the col before Mt Amos still requires care. <br/>Most climbers finish on Mt Amos and walk down the tourist track but it is possible to make your way down through the scrub and over the boulders to the saddle between Mt Amos and Mt Mayson, and then on down to the Wineglass Bay tourist track on the west side of the Peninsular which takes you back to the main car parks. Allow at least a couple of hours extra for this section.<br/>The point where the ascent of Mt. Parsons begins is where the Sea-level Traverse diverges off left, and as you ascend from here Hazards Main Wall is to your left (south). Where this ascent relents and is level for ~200m is the top of the longer routes at the south of Hazards Main Wall (Japhlion etc.), and so this is also the quickest descent route from Hazards Main Wall. Also this point is roughly the same altitude as the foot of Wombat Crag (middle tier), part of which can be seen from here if you look west. This is the best way to reach Wombat Crag, and is the return route and one access for Flowstone. From the top of Mt. Parsons, Flowstone can be seen ~500m away to the south, the foot up to ~150m above the water. Just below the summit of Mt. Dove and to its northwest is the cliff called Windy Hill. To your left when you're in the saddle between Dove and Amos is the east face of Amos.</climb>
<climb id="5" name="Sealevel Traverse" fa="R. Williams, L. Closs, summer 1970." stars="**" length="8hrs" grade="16" extra="" number="2.">Strictly a misnomer, as sometimes you get some distance from the sea - take water and at least a small rack and a rope (the first climbers bivvied half way). A wet suit is an optional luxury! Requires a fairly still day with low swell. <br/>Start at the Sleepy Bay car park (a car shuffle may be necessary if you don't want a long slog back from the other end), walk down the tourist track past Little Gravelly Beach and then follow the littoral line as closely as is reasonable south and then west to Wineglass Bay. Shortly after the route diverges down from the Skyline Traverse climb the "Horizontal Chimney". After 2km of traversing on the slabs and climbing over short steps, you round a corner and see Flowstone Wall. At this point you are at The Gonk. Just after you pass below Flowstone you must swim ~50m (unless you climb Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy, or any other route on Flowstone, then drop back to sea level). Scramble and walk more easily along the coast line, finishing at the north end of Wineglass Bay Beach. Return over the tourist track to the Mt Amos car park.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="6">Main Wall Right Hand Side</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="7">The following climbs start from a traverse line leading leftwards to access the steeper part of the cliff. There are many cairns around but keep to the seaward side and follow tracks up until it steepens, maybe100-200m uphill. A series of cairns and a rough pad dive off L, towards the sea, and traverese round and down under the cliffs. The Axiom round to The Reprieve are accessed from above a slab which in turn can be avoided by decending to the L (some cairns) and traversing along the bottom edge, climbing back up to join the crags at Stud City. Routes are described R-L, as you come to them.</text>
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<legend>
<climb>9</climb>
<climb>11</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>13</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>16</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>29</climb>
<climb>30</climb>
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<climb id="9" name="The Axiom" fa="Roger Parkyn, Sam Edwards (alt), Sep 1994." stars="***" length="30m" grade="24" extra="" number="3." guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous.</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="10">Rap anchors now exist to service the next few climbs and can be found at the top of Full Sail.</text>
<climb id="11" name="Full Sail" fa="K. Lindorff, K. Roseberry, Jan 1977." stars="**" length="40m" grade="19" extra="" number="4." guide.action="submit" guide.id="44" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">On the RH end of the Main Wall there is a compact wall about 100m from sea level. At the RH end of the wall and running to the right a prominent roof splits the wall at about 15m height. Full Sail takes the line on the LH end of this roof. Climb the line to the corner of the roof, step left, then continue up past large columnar bridge to a DBB where angle eases. Instead of stepping left at the roof it is possible to continue up the crack through the roof and traverse left at the next blank wall. This makes the climb more sustained but still 19.</climb>
<climb id="12" name="Full Sail Direct" fa="Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982." stars="**" length="36m" grade="20" extra="" number="5." guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top.</climb>
<climb id="13" name="Havahorror" fa="Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982." stars="*" length="45m" grade="21" extra="" number="6." guide.action="submit" guide.id="42" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner.</climb>
<climb id="14" name="Trucks Have Wings" fa="A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992." stars="**" length="45m" grade="18" extra="" number="7." guide.action="submit" guide.id="41" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Excellent. The first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two bolts (crux), move right into the crack. Up this and the slab above.</climb>
<climb id="15" name="Jack Shit" fa="Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 1993." stars="" length="45m" grade="17" extra="" number="8." guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second.</climb>
<climb id="16" name="The Reprieve" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Bowman, Dec 1976." stars="" length="90m" grade="18" extra="" number="9." guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Surprisingly worthwhile and adventurous. Start 30m left of Full Sail at a pile of blocks on the ledge. <br/>1. 45m. Move up wall on good holds then friction traverse right for 6m then up to ledge and dead tree. Continue easily up wall to belay. <br/>2. 45m. Traverse left for 6m then straight up to ledge.</climb>
<climb id="17" name="Leo's Retreat" fa="C. Rathbone, G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov 1976." stars="" length="160m" grade="15" extra="" number="10." guide.action="submit" guide.id="37" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Loose, scrubby and indirect, found 30m left of The Reprieve. <br/>1. 25m. Up variety of cracks to belay on sloping ledge to the left. <br/>2. 42m. Move left around the corner to a large scrubby terrace. Walk 30m left to the obvious corner. <br/>3. 25m. Move up right to a small hollow, then trend left and up via the corner to a good ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Move right for 12m then up a wide crack to clean slabs. Belay on jammed blocks. <br/>5. 12m. Left up slabs to small caves. <br/>6. 33m. Up broken walls to the base of the overhang. <br/>7. 40m. Right for 12m, up grooves, then across the slab to final short wall and on to top.</climb>
<climb id="18" name="Trouble In Paradise" fa="Roger Parkyn, C.Bye, Nov 1992." stars="" length="9m" grade="21" extra="" number="11." guide.action="submit" guide.id="36" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">This is the bolted route about 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires. The climbing isn't great, but there is a single bolt belay and lower off.</climb>
<text class="text" id="70">The descent for the next few climbs is serviced by either abseil or by continuing upward to meet the Skyline Traverse. <br/><br/>Abseil route: From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) right for 30m to a bigger ledge where on the edge of the slab you will see a tree with a sling on it. Rap 50m from here to a huge ledge covered in trees. From this ledge walk down about 10m towards the next drop off where you will see a tree beside a small gully. Rap 30m from here to the ground.<br/><br/>Alternately from the top of Stud City you can climb up to tree-filled corner above (you might want to stay roped up) and continue scrambling upwards till you meet up with the Skyline Traverse.</text>
<climb id="20" name="Stud City" fa="B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 1977. FFA: H, Rock Daddy, Noel Baby." stars="***" length="100m" grade="19" extra="" number="12." guide.action="submit" guide.id="33" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The original classic on this part of the cliff, it is highly regarded. Well protected (full rack up to #4 BD), it takes in the enormous flake that can be seen from just before the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse. It is much easier to approach along the higher traverse line, the route along the base of these climbs, than from sea level. The climb begins straight above the horizontal chimney by the largest gum tree on the scrubby terrace.<br/>1. 40m 17. Up right trending crack until the large hollow flake is reached. Traverse right, along the flake and up groove to belay on ledges.<br/>2. 30m 18. Continue up to the flake, undercling right along the flake to its end. Move 3m right across slab to belay below water runnel chimney.<br/>3. 30m 19. Move up chimney groove to finger crack, continue up until the climbing gets desperate, at which point it is possible to move left onto the wall, which is climbed to a small ledge and crack. Take the handcrack to top, belay on tree. (This pitch can be linked with the previous one on a full stretched 60m double rope & no drag. Keep small gear for the end)</climb>
<climb id="19" name="Continuum" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999." stars="**" length="60m" grade="17" extra="" number="13." guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Why wasn't this gem uncovered earlier? A mossy traverse that with some cleaning and or some traffic would be 3 stars. Start at the belay atop the first pitch of Stud City.<br/>1. 30m 17. Climb the second pitch of Stud City until 10m below the enormous flake then follow the diagonal overlap leading right. Initially a bit run out (crux). When the overlap peters out, continue traversing right then up to belay just right of the arête on a descent size slopping ledge.<br/>2. 30m 15. Step left onto the arête and follow the convoluted depressions up the arête to the top with spaced gear. Great climbing for the grade.</climb>
<climb id="21" name="Well Hung" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999." stars="" length="50m" grade="18" extra="" number="14.">Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second pitch, but instead of going right across the under-cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the roof/overlap and ultimately take the RH crack (crux, crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first) to the top of the slabs. Passing the overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty exposed.</climb>
<climb id="22" name="RP Freedomseeker" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 1991." stars="*" length="100m" grade="17" extra="" number="15." guide.action="submit" guide.id="32" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Optional bouldery start through gum leaves to gain the ramp. Otherwise start at Stud City.<br/>1. 35m 17. Climb the right-leading ramp, then up into Stud City and up to belay where a big ledge leads left.<br/>2. 30m 17. Traverse left into the corner. Climb corner and clean wall on left, then up slab to belay.<br/>3. 35m. On to top.</climb>
<climb id="23" name="Torstein And Back" fa="G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 1991." stars="" length="16m" grade="19" extra="" number="16." guide.action="submit" guide.id="31" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever.</climb>
<climb id="24" name="Hootin And Jivin" fa="Garn Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988." stars="" length="90m" grade="22" extra="" number="17." guide.action="submit" guide.id="29" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Well protected at the difficult sections. Just left of Stud City, below the right hand end of the obvious traverse line. <br/>1. 20m. Up, then traverse left, to belay on the ledge after the hard bit. <br/>2. 20m. Straight up the corner, stepping left at the huge diagonal to surmount the bulge. <br/>3. 50m. Straight up to belay (quite run-out, but easy).</climb>
<text class="Discussion" id="25">A first rate, but solid (22,19,18,19) outing would be to climb the first pitch of Hootin and Jivin, followed by Torstein and Back, then reverse the traverse of RP Freedomseeker to finish up the last two pitches of Stud City.</text>
<climb id="26" name="Lubricity" fa="Pitch 1: A. Potito, R. Eccleston Jul 1993. Pitch 2-3: A. Hasan, G. Cooper, A. Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992." stars="" length="105m" grade="22" extra="" number="18." guide.action="submit" guide.id="28" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A good route which combines a very steep start with some beautiful slab climbing above. Awaits a direct third pitch which has been top-roped by seconds at grade 18. Five meters right of Kids on Skids, there's a ledge below and to the left of where a short left facing corner broaches the overhanging wall. Start here. <br/>1. 35m. Right along the ledge, then up the corner to a sloping hold and bolt. More desperate moves up and left onto slab, which is followed past two overlaps. Traverse left for 5m under second overlap to a weakness leading back right which is followed. Belay on the ledge above. <br/>2. 30m. Straight up passing a bolt in the slab, then slightly left and up to a 5 hex placement in the ocean of granite, then another bolt. Belay beneath the wall. <br/>3. 40m. Diagonally right along ledge to a feasible crack system (8m). Up passing a cave on the right before moving back left to a slabby corner. Belay when angle eases.</climb>
<climb id="27" name="Tic Tac Toe" fa="Kim Robinson 12 Aug 2001." stars="" length="15m" grade="25" extra="" number="19.">Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once topped out over lip.</climb>
<climb id="28" name="Kids On Skids" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1988." stars="**" length="95m" grade="17" extra="" number="20." guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The first pitch is a psychological wrestle, the second a pleasant slab and the third finishes via a steep headwall. Start 20m right of Cosmic City Flameout & 30m left of Stud City, where the overhanging wall changes to a slab, there is a small flake at 5m with some small overlaps above.<br/>1. 20m 17. (Stars are for this pitch) Up, traverse left to flake, then straight up through overlaps to belay at small one man cave with slot in roof. Gear is good but relatively sparse and some of the rock is a little suspect. Rap off (while you're ahead) a thread here (1.5m to 2m long threads have been replace on Sep 2013).<br/>2. 40m 17. (Very mossy) Step right 2m and up RP crack. When this runs out and the angle eases, go straight up to belay at small 1m wall 5m under steep headwall. (It is possilbe to rap from here by traversing 7m left to DBB)<br/>3. 30m. Step right a little and go up polished cracks above.</climb>
<climb id="29" name="Don't Land On The Lunch" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1990. Direct headwall finish added by Matt Perchard, J.Keane Dec 1990." stars="**" length="90m" grade="20" extra="" number="21." guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A triumph over self-doubt. This testpiece slab was bolted on lead, so spare a thought for the first ascentionist, who climbed it ground up, before complaining about the lack of bolts and gear. Starts at a large boulder left of Kids on Skids, below two closely positioned bolts.<br/>1. 47m 20. Straight up past small ledge and the 2 bolts (carrots, topmost with hanger) to reach a welcome stance with spike runner (crux). Up the slab to a big cave that is passed on its LHS and continue up to the R facing flake and gear (phew). Follow the line to belay on a sloping stance at the apex of the triangular slab (some cunning RP placements).<br/>2. 45m 18. Move right a touch and up slab via two overlaps for 8m towards left end of small 1m wall 5m under steep headwall. Either use the DBB at this point to rap back to the bottom (60m) or continue up the headwall via the obvious crack onto slab and up to belay. Alternatively you can traverse R from the DBB for 10m into a cave before climbing pitch 3 of Kids on Skids.</climb>
<climb id="30" name="Cosmic City Flameout" fa="B. Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977." stars="" length="150m" grade="19" extra="" number="22." guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Not too sustained nor inspiring. Starts as for Don't Land on the Lunch at a large boulder left of Kids on Skids.<br/>1. 30m 19. Move up onto ledge, diagonally left along weakness then 5m up to follow flake. Move up wall above until angle eases. <br/>2. 40m 15. Move easily up wall and slab to belay in small cave. <br/>3. 45m 16. Climb fused corner until quartz veins. Traverse right then up wall to belay. <br/>4. 35m. Continue easily to top.</climb>
<climb id="31" name="Auntie Helen, There's Something Furry In Your Fridge" fa="G. Cooper, P. Cullen, Feb 1988." stars="" length="143m" grade="18" extra="" number="23.">Not even a strong line. Start as for Fianchetto. <br/>1. 23m. As for Fianchetto. <br/>2. 40m. Step right then straight up.<br/>3. 40m. Straight up slab. <br/>4. 40m. Step right, then up delightful scallops to traverse right across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) below steep headwall.</climb>
<climb id="32" name="Fianchetto" fa="G. Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988." stars="" length="100m" grade="18" extra="" number="24." guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A strong line is the best that can be said about this one. Starts 20m left of Cosmic City Flameout at a big steep left facing corner. <br/>1. 23m. Up corner, left under roof, then up to belay on big loose flake. <br/>2. 22m. Continue up, traversing left under headwall roofs, to belay where drag dictates. <br/>3. 55m. Continue left until roofs end, then straight up to finish below steep headwall. Exit right via pons-asinorum (Epaminondas pitch 5).</climb>
<climb id="33" name="Epaminondas" fa="Pitches 1-4: Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1990. Fat Boy variant (pitches 5 & 6): Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 1993" stars="*" length="226m" grade="17" extra="" number="25." guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A hoot for the grade, particularly the first pitch. Named after a foolish and dimwitted boy from a children's story. Start 7m L of Fianchetto, directly below parallel cracks and the LH end of the first big roof. <br/>1. 31m. Up small crack for 5m, L for 8m, up short R facing corner for 10m to stance, L for 5m to base of crack, up this for 3m to good stance and awkward semi-hanging belay on slab. <br/>2. 47m. Follow crack up slab for 3m, traverse L on horizontal break for 10m, up major corner for 4m, move 2m R to thin flakes and crack. Up crack and steep corner above to belay on slab near trees. <br/>3. 50m. Straight up slab to belay at base of groove just short of a tree covered terrace on RHS. <br/>4. 8m. Climb the groove to belay on the terrace. <br/>5. 50m. Last pitch has been separated as an exit route. See route description 'Pons asinorum'<br/>5a. Fat Boy variant: Traverse L off the terrace and across the cave. Climb the line leading out the top of the cave to belay at the foot of a short laid back corner. <br/>6. 40m. Fat Boy variant continued: Up corner then up the terraces.</climb>
<climb id="72" name="Pons Asinorum" fa="" stars="" length="50m" grade="??" extra="" number="26.">An escape option right exists via the 'pons asinorum' (bridge of asses). Walk 10m R to the end of the terrace and belay. Step 2m down around the corner, then climb the delightfully scalloped slab to the top. Traverse R below the steep headwall across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) to belay near scrub. To exit, walk R along the terrace system, moving up a level after 30m to access exit chimney and easier ground.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="34">Main Wall Left Hand Side</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="35">The following climbs start downhill to the left of Epaminondas and are most quickly approached along the sealevel traverse if the swell permits this. They are described R-L to continue on from the previous section.</text>
<image id="71" height="882" src="Coles Bay - Hazards Main Wall Left Hand Side.jpg" width="600" legendy="5" legendx="5" legend="true">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>29</climb>
<climb>30</climb>
<climb>31</climb>
<climb>32</climb>
<climb>33</climb>
<climb>72</climb>
<climb>38</climb>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
<climb>41</climb>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>44</climb>
<climb>46</climb>
<climb>45</climb>
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<text class="text" id="37">About 100-150m past the horizontal chimney on the Sea Level Traverse, the base of the wall reaches its lowest point at about 70m above sea level. About 40m left of this low point is a right-facing corner, about 45m high and 2m deep. The walls low point and the right-facing corner are both clear reference points, and Japhlion starts between them at the most obvious easy line.</text>
<climb id="38" name="The Laughing Jackass" fa="G. Cooper, R.Sellers, Jan 1990." stars="" length="65m" grade="19" extra="" number="27." guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Feeling mortal? Then stay ground-bound. About 40m right of the corner near the left margin of the cliff, at the easiest place to breach the overhang until you reach Epaminondas, moving right. Near the lowest point of the cliff. <br/>1. 35m. Surmount bulge and climb to just above the tree at 10m. Step left 3m climb up to belay at first opportunity. <br/>2. 30m. Pick your way up to the strong diagonal ramp 20m below the major headwall. Traverse 20m down the ramp to the left and either abseil off (a single rope will get you low enough to downclimb at about grade 6) or continue up Griphon or Trusting Rust.</climb>
<climb id="39" name="The Artistic Fibber" fa="A. Adams G. Cooper, 1991." stars="" length="53m" grade="20" extra="" number="28.">Start 12m right of Japhlion, at the 3m tea tree growing at the foot of the cliff. Carefully preserving the necessary tree, climb up it and onto the cliff. Up and then a tricky, reachy move right, then up trickily to a good little ledge on the slab. Traverse right and then follow the obvious line to the top passing three bolts. Take a swag of RP's.</climb>
<climb id="40" name="What A Crafty Snail" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams Jul 1991." stars="*" length="50m" grade="17" extra="" number="29.">Start as for Japhlion. Up this for 5m, then traverse right 12m past 2 bolts, to the line. Climb up passing 3 bolts to the top. To exit, traverse left and abseil off tea tree. According to Garn, the route is quite secure and a good route to get your confidence up on.</climb>
<climb id="41" name="Trusting Rust (Direct Start)" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams, Jul 1991." stars="*" length="50m" grade="18" extra="" number="30." guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right to the second bolt, then left slightly and straight up passing 2 bolts, friend pocket and wire placement to the top.</climb>
<climb id="42" name="Trusting Rust" fa="E. Peacock, J. Kennedy Jun 1984." stars="" length="230m" grade="18" extra="" number="31." guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">An adventure of rare difficulty and deviation, this route has a strong rightward trend due to the first and third pitches.<br/>1. 50m. Start as for Japhlion for 10m then move diagonally right for 10m past an inverted pocket and good wire placement. Continue up the excellent slab to good holds and belay. <br/>2. 50m. Traverse right until you can move up onto the slab via a detached block. Keep ~15m right of the small broken overlap then head straight up the slab to belay at flake in 8m polished water streak, approx. 3m below large overlap (a ropestretcher). <br/>3. 50m. Move to the right-hand end of the overlap and belay in the scrubby chute (another ropestretcher). <br/>4. 25m. Move up about 8m, then left below roof then across cave to blocks and belay. <br/>5. 30m. Step left on face holds then up crack to corner. Up corner to belay. <br/>6. 25m. Continue easily to top.</climb>
<climb id="43" name="Griphon" fa="D. Hain, B. Kennedy, Dec 1975." stars="" length="280m" grade="19" extra="" number="32." guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Start as for Japhlion. <br/>1. 50m. Up flake to where Japhlion heads left whereupon this climb goes up to recess at 35m. Up left to ramp then back to right hand end of wall. <br/>2. 10m. Up wall to belay below small overlap above stacked blocks. <br/>3. 40m. Up easy slabs moving left near top. Belay on water streak below weakness in large overlap. <br/>4. 45m. Surmount overlap, step right, then up to overlap. Up to bushy ledge. <br/>5. 40m. Bash up scrub to slab below wall. Walk right to end of slab and shattered blocks. <br/>6. 20m. Climb slanting corner with difficulty. <br/>7. 75m. Scramble easily to top.</climb>
<climb id="44" name="Japhlion" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1974." stars="**" length="230m" grade="16" extra="" number="33." guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A Main Wall classic slab. Starts on the LH end of the terrace,15m R of the main R-facing corner and 25m L of the lowest point of the wall. An obvious easy line defined by a vegetated flakey corner disappears after about 20m. The 5th pitch is out of character to the rest of the route.<br/>1. 50m. Move up slight corner then up to hollow flake at 20m. Move L a few metres then up slab to belay where angle eases. (This pitch may be a shade long) <br/>2. 45m. Up slab to crack and overlap, then straight up centre of slab to belay in tiny cave on the slab. <br/>3. 50m. Straight up on to slab then up, staying L of the RH crack/gully which is the source of protection, to belay in gully on R, 15m below a steep corner. <br/>4. 15m. Climb up to steep corner. Belay at tree. <br/>5. 30m. Layback and jam the corner and climb up awkward short chimney to the ledge. Up thin crack tending R to belay. <br/>6. 50m. Up slabs easily to top.</climb>
<climb id="46" name="Pneisses (Direct Start)" fa="A. Herington, B. Kennedy Jun 1984." stars="" length="35m" grade="19" extra="" number="34." guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Ten metres left of Japhlion, and a few metres right of the main right facing corner. <br/>1. 35m. Up slab on thin holds following fused crack. <br/>2. Continue as for Pneisses.</climb>
<climb id="45" name="Pneisses" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1975." stars="***" length="240m" grade="15" extra="" number="35." guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A slab climber's dream day out. Easy to follow but don't forget your small wires (RP's). After the first pitch this route has a leftward trend, due mainly to the second pitch, and keeps well to the left of Japhlion. Begin at the first scrubby crack left (about 8m) of right-facing corner. <br/>1. 45m. Up the crack for about 8 - 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top righthand corner of slab. Drop off edge of slab into the gully and go up a couple of metres to tree belay. <br/>2. 40m. Up the gully for 3m, step out right onto slab, up past the tree and continue up the slab carefully, trending left, but staying right of the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the right. <br/>3. 35m. Move diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding stance. Up the LH line of weakness in the steeper slab above to a bush belay. <br/>4. 45m. Up the slab trending slightly left, to a bush belay below steeper headwall. <br/>5. 30m. Up RHS of the short headwall and slab above to another 2m wall. Over this an up to finish on a large ledge with a tree belay. <br/>6. 45m. Step across a gutter onto the wall behind and follow the slab above to the top, keeping to the left of the thin crack.</climb>
<climb id="47" name="Pooch Slab" fa="J. Foden, S. Karpiniec Jan 1974" stars="" length="350m" grade="9" extra="" number="36." guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Left of Japhlion at a corner. <br/>1. Move up crack and onto the slab. Up slab to a small wall belay. <br/>2. Up corner 3m and across easy slabs to next wall. <br/>3. Up crack onto next slab. Follow this up to gulley to the left of the steep slab. <br/>4. Move left out of gulley onto easy angled slabs and straight up slab. Belay on scrub. <br/>5. Continue up slab to easy angled scrubby section above. Walk to base of next vertical section. <br/>6. Up a 15m wall. Move right from top of wall to gully in corner at head of the gully. <br/>7. Easy scramble up gully to top of the cliff.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="48">The Suzuki Complex</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="49">The Suzuki Complex is situated above Hazards Main Wall ~10m on the seaward side of the Skyline traverse track 30 minutes walk from Sleepy Bay. The cliff faces towards the sea and is just below the walk-off route for the longer Hazards Main Wall routes.</text>
<climb id="50" name="Luxury Leather Goods" fa="Roger Parkyn Jan 1991." stars="" length="15m" grade="19" number="37.">Ascends the steep curving crack initally on fingers then widening to hands. The route is 2m left of the arete that is left of The Bullshit Factor.</climb>
<climb id="51" name="The Bullshit Factor" fa="Jack Keane Jan 1991" stars="" length="15m" grade="20" number="38.">The uncompromising dihedral whose left wall is slightly overhanging. Sustained.</climb>
<climb id="52" name="Osmotic Tension" fa="Roger Parkyn Jan 1991" stars="" length="15m" grade="21" number="39.">Take the crack straight above the base of the leaning gum tree, 20m right of The Bullshit Factor. Good wires protect the face above.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="53">The Underworld</text>
<text class="Discussion" id="54">This crag is found by heading down towards the water where the Skyline Traverse leaves the Sea-level Traverse. There is an ampitheatre of steep pink granite undercut by a large cave.</text>
<climb id="55" name="Corner Part-2" fa="Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 1994." stars="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="" number="40." guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean.</climb>
<climb id="56" name="The Wind Below" fa="Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997." stars="" length="12m" grade="26" extra="Þ" number="41." guide.action="submit" guide.id="54" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The arête just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots).</climb>
<climb id="57" name="Jabberwock" fa="Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994." stars="**" length="27m" grade="22" extra="" number="42." guide.action="submit" guide.id="55" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above.</climb>
<climb id="58" name="Slithy Tove" fa="Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994. FFA R. Parkyn 1997." stars="*" length="24m" grade="24" extra="" number="43." guide.action="submit" guide.id="56" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro.</climb>
<climb id="59" name="Via Magna" fa="John Fisher, Mar 1995." stars="***" length="20m" grade="26" extra="Þ" number="44.">Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal.</climb>
<climb id="60" name="Travels by Dragonfly" fa="Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22 Feb 1995." stars="" length="20m" grade="27" extra="Þ" number="45." guide.action="submit" guide.id="58" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay.</climb>
<climb id="61" name="Nunc Dimitis" fa="John Fisher Mar 1995" stars="***" length="16m" grade="24" extra="Þ" number="46.">The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb.</climb>
<climb id="62" name="Waters of Oblivion" fa="John Fisher Mar 1995." stars="" length="20m" grade="22" extra="" number="47." guide.action="submit" guide.id="60" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The sculpted arête on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arête. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free.</climb>
<climb id="63" name="Superbrinkmanslip" fa="Nick Hancock Feb 2003." stars="**" length="15m" grade="22" number="48.">A wonderful deep-water solo, on the seaward side of the huge fish shaped boulder, at the northern entrance to the Underworld. Abseil to a stance on a ledge below the mouth and get a friend to pull up the rope. Climb small pockets to a L leading traverse. Follow this and finish straight up to the ridge.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="64">Insomnia Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="65">At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy Bay, descend to the very steep north facing wall by the sea.</text>
<climb id="66" name="Insomnia" fa="Nick Hancock Apr 2004." stars="**" length="10m" grade="25" extra="5Þ" number="49.">Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off.</climb>
<climb id="67" name="Project" stars="" length="10m" grade="" extra="4Þ" number="50."/>
<climb id="68" name="Weffy" fa="Doug McConnell Apr 2004." stars="*" length="10m" grade="22" extra="5Þ" number="51.">From cairn climb right then up to lower off.</climb>
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